The early part of the 21st century has changed Ireland in many ways both good and bad. A building boom (now gone bust in the world-wide recession) had Irish-style mini-mansions going up throughout the beautiful and rugged western part of this once-impoverished country. Many immigrants were returning home to take advantage of the employment opportunities created by the famed “Celtic Tiger” economy.
But if you are a visitor looking for a place that still holds the bucolic charm for which Ireland is famous, Clifden in County Galway is a perfect base for exploring beautiful Connemara. This little Irish village is perfectly situated between bustling Galway City and the rolling countryside of western Ireland, which is justly famous for its rugged, desolate beauty.
Kylemore Abbey, Connemara
One of the newest towns in Ireland, Clifden was founded at the beginning of the 19th century by John D’Arcy, who hoped the town would bring prosperity to the poverty-stricken area. Today the village is much as it was built more than 100 years ago, but as a hub for tourists exploring the surrounding countryside, it is home to numerous restaurants, shops, B&Bs and hotels.
Clifden is a logical and pleasant home base or jumping-off point for anyone wishing to explore Connemara and its beautiful coastline, quaint villages and rugged mountains. It is also a convenient hour’s drive into Galway City, with its more cosmopolitan nightlife and shopping scene.
Photos courtesy Croatian National Tourist Office Home page photo by Mario Romulic & Drazen Stojcic
If you like to explore ancient history when you travel to Europe, the island of Korcula is your cup of tea.
The Croatian island of Korcula has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and traces of life from the past have been uncovered at many places on the island. The oldest finds were stone knives from the Neolithic age found on the islet of Badija near Korcula.
The richest discovery is the Neolithic site Vela spilja (Large Cave) at Vela Luka. Here, archaeologists have uncovered several layers of prehistoric life with fire sites, shards of ceramics and graves dating back 5,000 years before Christ.
Many Neolithic stone piles from this period—cult places and gravesites—have also been found over the entire island. The island was inhabited by the Greeks in the 6th century before Christ, first at Vela Luka.
Milan Babic
Later, on the other side of the island, in the area where Lumbarda is today, Greeks settled from the island of Vis (Issa), founding a separate settlement referred to in the inscription “PSEFIZMA” originating in the 3rd century before Christ, which was discovered at the end of the 19th century.
In the 1st century before Christ, the island, like the whole of Dalmatia, was conquered by the Romans, who called it Illyricum. In the 7th century A.D., the Slavs-Croats made their way to the Adriatic coast and formed their own state, which was first a principality and later became a kingdom, with the crowning of the first Croatian King Tomislav in 925. Korcula was also included within the borders of that state.
The Roman population fled from the Slavs to the islands of Brac, Hvar and Korcula, and after the situation settled, the majority returned to their original places of residence, while the rest assimilated with the settlers.
In 1,000 A.D., the Venetian Doge Petar II Orseolo took over the Dalmatian cities and islands, and thus Korcula also fell under Venetian rule. It was here on the nearby isle of Majsan that the Doge set up camp to lead the campaign against Korcula and Lastovo, which offered some resistance, but he quickly conquered both islands.
Following this, the rulers of Korcula changed frequently: the Venetians were replaced by the Zahumlje governors, then by the Austro-Hungarian kings, before the Venetians took over again, and from 1413 to 1420 the island was under the Dubrovnik Republic before again falling under Venetian rule in 1420, which lasted until 1797. When Napoleon brought down the Venetian Republic, Dalmatia was under Austrian rule for a short time before the French arrived.
From 1804 to 1805, Korcula was under French, then Russian rule, before the French again took control from 1897 to 1913. The English became rulers of the island to 1815, when the Vienna Congress set out the new borders of Europe.
Today, Korcula is just a scenic three-hour drive or short ferry ride from Drubrovnik, and the island is known for producing some of Croatia’s finest wines and best olive oil. The southern coast offers many scenic drives with secluded beaches that are great for swimming. Korcula town’s ancient walled center has picturesque stone streets and round towers.
For more information about Korcula and other Croatian destinations, go to www.croatia.hr/en
By Don Heimburger Photos by the author, Marilyn Heimburger and courtesy Pre-History Museum in Halle
Millions of visitors are expected to visit Wittenberg, Germany between now and 2017, when the 500th anniversary of the nailing of the 95 Theses by Martin Luther occurred.
The German state of Saxony-Anhalt is launching a giant campaign to publicize the anniversary and show off its Luther treasures to the world.
The kick-off event starts October 31 when the State Museum of Pre-History in Halle on the Saale River showcases numerous Luther archaeological artifacts that have recently been uncovered, mostly in Mansfeld, Luther’s childhood home, and Wittenberg at Luther House, where Luther taught.
Luther House in Wittenberg
Entitled “Finding Luther—Archaeologists on the Reformer’s Trail,” the 4,000-square foot exhibit will be shown in the newly-restored Pre-History Museum.
“Except for his writings, the bulk of the reformer’s possessions got lost,” says Dr. Michael Schefzik, curator of the Museum. “On the other hand, the archaeological excavations in 2003 yielded hundreds of objects which certainly had belonged to the Luther family.”
LUTHER’S LIFE COMES INTO FOCUS
Only in the last several years, after research by various archaeologists, was it feasible to draw a picture of the life of the Luther family, especially in Mansfeld where the Luther family moved to in 1484, shortly after Luther was born.
“Historical truth and legends (about Luther) are almost inseparably intermingled with each other,” says Dr. Schefzik. Now, more is known and will be explained in this new exhibit.
Dr. Schlenker indicates where first Luther artifacts were located in a parking area near Luther’s home
Some of the Luther exhibits visitors to the museum will find include:
Luther’s childhood marbles? Archaeologists believe they found them—made of clay and probably heated over an open fire in the Lutherhaus in Mansfield.
Luther’s mother’s thimble (?) has been preserved and is beautifully made.
Heating stove tiles of several colors from Luther House in Wittenberg with pictures of Adam and Eve on them, as well as possibly Frederick the Wise, who befriended Luther.
Iron keys, padlocks, nails, large headdress pins, knives, belt buckles, chards of pottery, beads, garment accessories, jewelry, a beer tap, coins, fish and wild fowl bones and much more.
SURPRISES YET TO COME
In addition, the museum has a few exhibit surprises that only visitors there will get to see. Many more Luther objects, such as goblets and beakers, are on loan from other museums and estates that will be shown in the exhibit. Luther received the vessels from wealthy patrons and gave them to selected friends.
Don and Marilyn Heimburger with Wittenberg Mayor Eckhard Naumann
The new Luther finds have attracted National Geographic, which plans a comprehensive report on the news, as well as many German newspapers and other news agencies.
While in Wittenberg (Home of the Reformation), which you could make your home base for a few days as you tour the various surrounding Luther sights, you’ll want to see the Town and Castle churches, the Luther House, a UNESCO World Cultural heritage site, the Philipp Melanchthon house, the Market Square with the town hall built between 1523 and 1535, the Lucas Cranach houses (he owned several), and some of the town’s museums. The town, first documented in 1180, has a great many historical buildings.
The Castle Church, with an 288-foot-high tower, was once the magnificent castle of the electors of Saxony, built between 1489 and 1525 for Frederick the Wise. It also became the university church, and it was here that Martin Luther nailed his 95 Theses to the door. Today a black bronze door (installed in 1858) has replaced the original one. The door commemorates October 31, 1517 when Luther nailed his theses “on the power of indulgences” to the door.
Medieval ladies add to Wittenberg’s FestivalMeat sizzles on an open fire at Wittenberg town festivalMusicians at Wittenberg festival
OLDEST CHURCH WORTH A VISIT
Wittenberg’s oldest church is the Town Church, the Town and Parish Church of St. Mary, set in the central square. The pulpit, at which Luther preached, can actually be found now at the Luther House. If you go, note the series of epitaphs by Lucas Cranach the Younger around the altar. They are from around 1560.
Other Wittenberg highlights include:
The multi-colored turreted high school designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser
The Piesteritz residential housing complex on the west part of town, with some housing built as early as 1916, used to house factory workers
Museum of Town History, a collection of thousands of old historic Wittenberg documents and artifacts
For fun, visit the historical printing workshop in town and see how printing used to be done at the time Luther translated the Bible into German. You can even purchase a few humorous Luther quotes which have been printed at the shop.
WITTENBERG FESTIVALS
Hundertwasser School
Every year on the second weekend in June, thousands gather in the streets of this town for Luther’s Wedding, a town festival that includes medieval merrymaking with processions, strolling musicians and entertainers.
July and August brings the Wittenberg Summer of Culture which includes theater shows, courtyard concerts, a wine festival and “ErlebnisNacht” which features unexpected happenings at unexpected times in unexpected places in the old quarter.
A newer hotel, across the Elbe River, is the Bruckenkopf Hotel, owned by the Schult family. Renate and Gehard Schult have invested heavily in the renovation of this sprawling military complex once used by the Kaiser’s Army and Napolean’s Army. There are 24 rooms in the brick fortress portion of the complex. The staff is friendly, and there is no noise except an occasional duck splashing in the nearby pond. The complex also provides rooms and cabins for boaters and bikers, tenters and motorhomes (www.marina-camp-elbe.de).
If you like good German food, a number of restaurants downtown can accommodate you. Nearly all hotels offer good food in their restaurants, but a favorite of the locals is the Schwarzer Baer, which is connected to a hotel (naturally) and Luther used to come in there to eat and drink, and it’s said he even slept there.
Wittenberg is best reached from Berlin’s Tegel Airport, and frequent ICE, ICE night and IC and EC trains stops in Wittenberg. For more Wittenberg information, go to www.wittenberg.de (e-mail: info@wittenberg-information.de). For individual town tours, contact English-speaking guides Bettina Brett at bettina.brett@arcor.de or Astrid Muehlmann at astrid.muehlmann@web.de. Both are veteran guides and are well-known locally.
Reverend Scott Moore in the pulpit at Eisleben Church, where Luther was baptized.Luther Museum in Eisleben.
OTHER NEARBY CITIES
If you’re in Wittenberg, you really should take the time to visit some other nearby Luther sights and towns. They include the town of Eisleben, nestled in the hill country of the Mansfeld basin. It’s here that Luther was born (November 10, 1483) and baptized the next day in the Church of St. Peter and Paul. His home has been turned into a very interesting museum that documents his early childhood and youth and gives an insight into the spiritual environment in which Luther was raised.
On the hill overlooking Mansfeld, you can visit the Mansfeld Castle where Luther preached. In town is his parent’s large home, where they are now uncovering many Luther family artifacts.
In Torgau, the political center of the Reformation, you can visit the Hartenfels Palace Chapel, consecrated by Luther on October 5, 1544. It is regarded as the first church to be built as a Protestant church.
Luther studied theology and sciences in Erfurt between 1501-1505. In 1505 he requested acceptance into the Erfurt monastery, home to the Augustinian monks, an order known for its scholarship. In 1507 Luther was ordained as a priest
By Marilyn Heimburger Photos by the author and Don Heimburger
The UNESCO World Heritage city of Regensburg, Germany, 90 minutes north of Munich, is more than 2,000 years old, and many of its buildings serve as a testament to its long history.
There’s plenty of reminders of this town’s heritage: located on the Danube, many tour ships dock here and unload visitors for a peek into this German treasure.
Even Mozart liked the city: Regensburg’s hospitality was commended as early as 1790 by Mozart who enjoyed “a sumptuous meal along with divine music” and praised the good wine.
Numerous Roman buildings, such as the Porto Praetorius–an old Roman town gate–can still be seen today. It was preserved because the Bishop’s beer garden was located on the site. An underground museum at Neupfarrplatz displays the history of the Romans and the Jewish community there until 1519.
NEUPFARRPLATZ IN JEWISH QUARTER At the Neupfarrplatz, houses were built in the Jewish quarter over the old Roman fortress in the 8th century. These were destroyed in 1519 when the Jews were blamed for a downturn in the economy and were driven out.
In 1995 an excavation of the area was begun, and the ruins of the Jewish quarter were found, in addition to the Roman ruins.
Found in the excavation and on display in the underground museum were a second or third century statue of the Roman god Mercury; from the 15th century a statue of Aaron (Mose’s brother); and from 1520 an icon of the Virgin Mary. The museum is called Document Neupfarrplatz; if you walk down a flight of stairs, you can view a video showing the excavation finds. www.regensburg.de.
The city began as a Roman fortification (Castra Regina) in 179 AD by Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius because it was the northernmost point on the Danube. When the Roman Empire fell, the Romans retreated. The fortress built there was not destroyed, and Bavarians then occupied it. It was the first capital of Bavaria; believe it or not, Munich is 1000 years younger!
Not much was damaged in the town during World War II as there wasn’t much industry in Regensburg, so there was nothing to bomb. Thus, the old buildings were preserved.
‘ITALY’S NORTHERNMOST CITY’ Rich merchants gained wealth from importing goods from far away lands. They built large homes with tall towers (a show of strength and wealth) after the style in Italy. Many of these are still standing in Regensburg; nearly 20 are still well preserved. The town is often called “Italy’s northernmost city” because of this.
One of the big Regensburg attractions is The Old Stone Bridge, built on 16 huge arches, which has been in continuous use for more than 800 years. Built between 1135 and 1146, the Stone Bridge enjoys the status of being a unique masterpiece of medieval engineering. It was for many centuries the only stone bridge spanning the Danube between Ulm and Vienna. It was not only a technological masterpiece of engineering, but of strategic importance in terms of transport and, as a result, of great commercial value.
Another town attraction is the Old Town Hall, where Roman Emperors used to summon princes, bishops and ambassadors to discuss the affairs of state. The Imperial Diet Chamber still contains the same furniture, including the benches that gave rise to the German expression “to put something on the long bench” (meaning to postpone it indefinitely).
‘HISTORIC LUNCH’ For a quick and tasty lunch, sit down near the Danube and enjoy hot, juicy sausages with kraut and bread in the “Historische Wurstkuchl,” the world’s oldest sausage kitchen. You can actually see them frying the sausages on the grill through a door that leads into the small kitchen. http://www.wurstkuchl.de
Regensburg is a city of churches. Focal points of early Christianity, its ecclesiastical buildings are majestic and typify early Christian architecture. Most famous is St. Peter’s Cathedral, inspired by the French Gothic style and built in the 13th century.
At waterside, Schifffahrt Klinger offers boat trips to many different sights such as the Walhalla, the German Hall of Fame containing busts of famous German personalities.
Regensburg`s remarkable buildings and towers offer an unspoiled look into the past; the wars of the 19th and 20th centuries left this Danubian community virtually unscathed.
The Regensburg Tourism Office is located at the old Rathaus, Rathausplatz 3, D-93047 in Regensburg. Fax is +49 941-507-1919 or e-mail to tourismus@regensburg.de.
ET: How many times have you taken your kids along with you on a foreign trip, and where?
The kids have been traveling with us since before they could walk (they are 10 and eight now), so on many, many trips to places like the British Isles, France, Italy, Greece, Peru, Costa Rica, Alaska, Florida, Mexico and the Caribbean.
ET: At what age do you feel it’s worthwhile for children to be taken on an overseas trip to Europe? Please explain your reasoning.
I think each age has its own benefits and drawbacks. When they are babies they are easy to travel with (before they can walk) and babies seem to open up a whole new door with the locals…you will meet other parents and talk about universal issues and be introduced to a whole different world than a typical traveler…people love babies! The drawback is babies come with a lot of gear and long overseas flights can be tough with a crier. Toddlers are fun to travel with because you see things entirely differently. They are fascinated by everything and leave nothing unexplored. What we might see as a famous monument a toddler might see as a cool worm inching its way across a stone surface. It gives perspective to things and adds a playfulness you might not get with older kids. However, toddlers can be unpredictable, and you still have to deal with added gear and schedules. My favorite is school-age kids. They still see things differently: our boys spent a good 20 minutes watching an ant carrying a toothpick across the Parthenon last summer, but they are more able to comprehend the historical and cultural significance of destinations. They are learning about the places in school and they bring that with them as well. Plus, they don’t have as much stuff, and are able to carry their own bags and they actually want to spend time with their parents still. The drawback is that they are in school, so homework has to become a part of their trip as well. Pre-teens and teens, depending on what stage they are in, can still be excited by exotic destinations, especially if you put an adventurous spin on it (i.e., zip lining through the Amazon, hiking the Inca Trail), but they are harder to impress and a mopey teenager can put a damper on the vacation for everyone. But, don’t let this stop you, as they will appreciate it later, and it gives them a global view on life that many kids their age don’t have.
ET: Language differences may or may not be a big barrier to children on a trip to Europe when accompanied by their parents, especially when the children are younger. At what age do you recommend children study the language before they travel overseas, and how might they best learn a language, say, when they’re going over for only a week or two? I always encourage travelers of every age to learn at least a few words in the country they are visiting. Saying “s’il vous plaît” in Paris will get you a much warmer reception than instantly assuming everyone knows English. And its fun for kids to practice the language with local kids. It is by no means necessary. There are very few places on earth that you can’t find at least one person who speaks English. However, if you plan on getting far off the beaten path, I would suggest a phrase book. There are lots of smart phone applications available as well now. We usually download one of those and practice a few key phrases in the weeks before the trip and while we are on long plane or train rides.
ET: Are there some things that are vitally important to take with you when you take younger kids along, that you may not find in Europe?
For the most part, you can find anything in Europe that you will need supply-wise. If there is a specialty item that is unique to your child, you may want to bring that…for example, a certain diaper rash cream for kids with sensitive skin, or a formula that your child needs. Also, any prescription medications. But don’t be afraid to try local things as well. Europe has lots of independent companies producing natural kids’ items that you can’t find in the States.
ET: What about the added expense by taking kids with you to Europe? Does it cost a lot extra to travel around, lodge and feed them?
Airline tickets are the main extra expense. Big hotels will be able to accommodate most small families in a regular room without additional expense. Booking a condo/apartment helps save on lodging costs and gives extra room for the while family to spread out. Plus, the kitchen can help save money on eating out. We usually do breakfast and sometimes lunch or dinner in the condo, but we like to eat out as well to get a feel for the local cuisine.
ET: Food. What do you suggest about finding “kid foods”– good, nutritious food at reasonable prices when overseas?
Go where the locals go. You don’t need to spend a lot to taste the local cuisine. The kids love street stalls. too. Just make sure to ask for guidance from locals to avoid getting sick. Crepe stands in Paris, panini cafes in Italy, pasty shops in England…all these foods let you get a taste of real local foods at a fraction of the cost of a sit-down restaurant.
ET: Can you recommend some special “kid-friendly” hotels in Europe, or cities or attractions that seem to especially cater to kids?
It’s not always the cities you would think that are exciting for kids. There doesn’t have to be an amusement park to interest kids. Our kids were fascinated by Venice, a city many people would not think of taking kids to. They loved taking the boats up and down the canals and wandering the tiny streets. Big cities are fun for kids, too. Paris and London are on the top of our kids’ destinations list. They love riding the tube and double decker buses and visiting big time attractions like the Eiffel Tower. Really anything can be interesting to kids if you prep them for it. Learn about a destination before you go. The kids learned about gladiators and Rome before we went to Italy, and it really came to life in Roman ruins all over Europe. They had a blast pretending to be gladiators in colosseums from Wales to Rome. Walks Inside Rome had a great tour with history on a kid’s level and a visit to Gladiator School…the kids learned from “real gladiators” how to fight with swords and defend against wild animals. Very fun! Many attractions have kid versions of audio tours, scavenger hunts, or something to engage kids. Just ask. If they don’t, you can always make your own. When the kids were younger (ages 5 and 7) we visited the Louvre. I was worried about keeping them interested, so I printed out pictures of some of the more famous exhibits and sent them on an art treasure hunt. They had a blast, and even enlisted the security guards to help them, and we enjoyed extra time at the museum.
As far as hotels go, apartment rentals are always great with kids. The apartments are often in local neighborhoods, so you get a better feel for local life. We rented apartments from Frenchy Rentals in Paris, a villa in Tuscany from Italy Perfect and apartments in Rome from Parker Villas. When we are staying in a hotel, we try to stay in family-owned, smaller hotels. These are usually located in the more culturally rich or historically significant parts of town. A lot of it is also about location. We don’t want to have to take a 20 minute taxi everytime we want to go into the old part of town. We like to be where the action is.
ET: Teenage tensions can be a problem. How do you handle this on a long European trip?
Lots of luck. Just kidding. Teenagers are a different breed, and since I don’t have any yet, I can’t give too much advice here. What I have noticed with my niece and nephews is that when they are out of their element (like you are in a foreign culture), some of that attitude fades away. I went on a trip to New York with my 15-year-old niece last year, and we had a blast. I asked for her input on everything we did, and I think that helped a lot. Let the kids (of all ages) help plan what you are doing. That helps them feel invested in the trip ahead of time and keeps them engaged while you are on the road.
ET: What foreign trips/areas might you not want to take your kids on and why?
I don’t think there are any areas I would say don’t take kids accept for areas I would not go myself because of dangers or violence. I guess there are some third world countries for which I would want to edit the itinerary. It would be very hard for the kids to comprehend such abject poverty. I might also stay away from long trips in which passengers are contained and there are no breaks. Kids who are cooped up and bored for long periods of time can get irritating fast.
Many people ask if I am scared to travel because of coverage they see on television. Fortunately, I have never felt any hostility from locals stemming from my being an American. In fact, quite the opposite. I have always been welcomed with open arms. When we traveled through the Middle East I was not sure what to expect, but everyone was very warm and welcoming. What you see in the news is not always how it is in real life. I would be cautious, of course, as things can happen when you travel, just as they could at home. Be aware of what is going on around you, ask the locals for perspective and trust your instincts.
ET: What do you suggest on a European trip if the parents want to occasionally go out alone in the evening and the kids need to go to bed. Who watches the kids?
Many hotels offer babysitting service. I have never used them as I would not feel comfortable leaving my kids with a stranger. However, I hear stories from other people who did this, and it turned out just fine. I would say that for me, the point of a family vacation is to spend time with your kids. At some point, they won’t want to hang around with us anymore, so I try to cash in on all the time I can with them now. Schedules are a bit more flexible when we travel. So, the kids stay up later which is just fine as the town squares in the evening are packed with families strolling and kids playing. It’s a time where we really get to know the locals, and the kids love it!
ET: What do you think is the most important thing to remember when going to Europe with your kids?
Take time to absorb it all. Often times when we travel (and I am just as guilty of it as anyone else), we pack in as much as we can. There’s so many wonderful things to see and do in Europe. And we end up moving so fast that we don’t take time to just sit and soak it all in. Sitting in the town square, watching life go by, is a great tradition in southern European countries, and it’s a great time to reflect and just spend time with your kids…time bonding and re-connecting with one another, which is really what it’s all about anyway.
Travel With Kids takes viewers on an educational journey through each destination visited, presenting history and culture in an innovative way, as well as showing the kid-friendly things to do and see. Whether planning a trip, or just wanting to learn more about a destination, Travel With Kids will entertain the whole family. For more information on Travel With Kids, or to purchase a DVD visit www.TravelWithKids.tv
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