Attractions – European Traveler

Layers of Time, Living Traditions in Southwest Sardinia

Sardinia’s ancient past survives not only in rock-cut tombs and sacred sites, but is also celebrated through the food, wine, and traditions that shape daily life

Story and photos by Alison Ramsey

Sant’Antioco is Italy’s oldest urban settlement, but its ancient past remains embedded in the island’s living traditions. In the southwestern region of Sardinia, Italy, communities have long been drawn by strategic coastlines, seafood-rich waters, mineral resources, and fertile land in a biodiverse ecosystem. As Mediterranean cultures crossed these shores, they passed along traditions, traded tools and recipes, and introduced influences that are still evident today. The island’s archaeology is not only preserved in excavated tombs and museum exhibits—it remains visibly connected to everyday culture through the food and wine served at family dinners.

Ferruccio Barreca Archaeological Museum

In Sant’Antioco—an island off the coast of southern Sardinia, connected by a manmade isthmus—the Ferruccio Barreca Archaeological Museum is set up for thorough exploration. The museum is arranged by historical timepoint, so visitors can follow the route from Phoenician and Punic origins extending into the Roman era in Italy’s most ancient city, Sulky.

Museum guide points to exhibit model — Knowledgeable guide Matteo Piras walks visitors through exhibitions at the Ferruccio Barreca Archaeological Museum.

Displayed here are artifacts found in excavations that are still in progress at sites on the island, with relics from ancient settlements and necropolises. One exhibition shows items found in a Punic Age water cistern and includes a large bowl used for making couscous (a typical Tunisian meal). Evidence like this indicates the island’s layered historical cultures resulting from its unique waterside location and landscape have influenced cuisine.

**Tabarchin Cascà Indicates African Culinary Influence**

In Calasetta, the Tabarchin couscous called cascà is still traditionally made using hand-prepared semolina. Lines grooved into the sides of the bowl assist in breaking up the moistened, salted grain clumps to form spherical shapes. Made in large batches and cooked with vegetables and aromatic herbs, this couscous can be reheated as savory leftovers, with flavors intensifying for later enjoyment.

A family recipe of Calasetta couscous is served at the Tenuta La Sabbiosa winery.

Couscous ingredients are prepped for mixing.

Woman makes couscous in a bowl — Couscous ingredients are prepped for mixing.

Settlement Structures Give Clues to Earlier Lifestyles

The southwestern portion of Sardinia holds the ruins of many nuraghes (fortress-like buildings) and shows evidence of the existence of Phoenician settlements—some of the oldest on the island. The remains of important Roman and Medieval structures are also found here. Across all of Sardinia, there are 7,000 discovered nuraghi, with 50 on Sant’Antioco island itself. Although the Nuragic Age’s characteristic structures vary in size and format, the strategic locations of these buildings seem to indicate they served as political, economic, and administrative centers of control and protection of resources.

To touch ancient nuraghi monument stones from 1600 B.C., head to the 14-acre Nuragic complex of Seruci in the town of Gonnesa, one of the largest Bronze Age dig sites in Sardinia. Examination of the multi-tower nuraghe and numerous prehistoric artifacts found at this site indicate that the village included about 200 huts. Deposits of zinc, lead, and silver give evidence to the commercial and daily life of the settlement’s early inhabitants.

Stone archaeological structures on top of a hill

Grapevines Thrive From Ancient Roots

Protection of the land’s products remains important even today, as Sardinians work hard to retain the natural offerings provided by land and sea. Tenuta La Sabbiosa winery on Sant’Antioco has great respect and passion for the ancient Carignano vineyards the native soil and salty winds used to nourish year-round across the dunes. Having avoided Europe’s late 1800s phylloxera vine disease, these historic grapevines began to dwindle in the 1980s, as low yield and changes in the wine market slackened the wine-growing tradition. La Sabbiosa restored the centuries-old vineyards on their land, using traditional processing techniques combined with modern knowledge. The pure flavors and scents of their wines are unique in that they are a direct product of ancient, pre-phylloxera European roots and grapes grown seaside, in soil containing 99% sand.

Woman crouched beside grapevine plants — Through grafting original vines and hard manual work, the ancient flavor of European grapes is preserved in the roots at Tenuta La Sabbiosa winery.

Natural Cork Regenerates in Sardinian Ecosystem

On the uphill road to Fluminimaggiore and the restored Roman Temple of Antas, cork oak trees are prevalent at the high elevation. These trees mark another way Sardinia’s landscape continues to shape local craft and commerce, as the trunks’ distinctive outward-growing bark regenerates in layers, allowing it to be harvested and regrow without harming the tree.

Renewable and sustainable, natural cork is harvested by cork producers to bring to northwest Sardinia and sell to wine producers, jewelry makers, and traditional mask makers, extending the relationship between Mediterranean ecology and everyday material culture.

Cork jewelry at a gift shop — Jewelry and souvenirs made from cork are found at some gift shops on the island.

Roman temple ruins in a meadow — The Temple of Antas has been partially reconstructed using original stones and fillers to recreate the front columns and staircase, and the sanctuary sits in the middle of a meadow, at an elevation where cork trees thrive.

Salt Harvested From Lagoon Waters

At waterfront MuMa Hostel on Sant’Antioco, the onsite Museum of the Sea and Shipwrights showcases natural habitats of plant and animal species on the island, including those of the herons, egrets, gulls, and pink flamingos that lounge in the Santa Caterina lagoon. These lagoon waters feed the adjacent Sant’Antioco salt pans, which are among the most important in Italy and help meet culinary demands.

Flavorful Food From Flora

While hiking to archaeological sites for evidence of the past, acknowledge the unspoiled nature painting the hinterland. The pure air is filled with intense, aromatic scents of wild olive trees, prickly pear, wild lilies, chamomile, and myrtle. Although lovely to smell, this scrabbly brush that characterizes the Sardinian countryside is often waxy, dry, and bitter, so animals avoid them. To the enjoyment of many people, however, some of this vegetation from the Mediterranean scrub is used to create delightful food and drink.

Fruit from the myrtle plant is used to make a popular liqueur—mirto—served cold with desserts or after meals in Sardinia. The berries are steeped in high-proof alcohol for several weeks and mixed with simple syrup. The drink’s rich, sweet, and slightly bitter herbal flavor evokes the Mediterranean maquis—the dense shrubland typical of the region. Many households on the island make their own mirto or limoncello to have on hand for dinnertime and to serve to guests.

Table full of desserts and drinks — The dessert table at home restaurant Da Zia Pinuccia offers “ladies’ kisses” almond balls and pastries alongside chilled limoncello and mirto.

The fragrant branches of the myrtle plant are even used as a colorful garnish for plating suckling pig at home restaurant Da Zia Pinuccia. A family-style dinner at this 19^th-century house provides an immersive dining experience with traditional Sardinian recipes passed down from previous generations, using locally sourced seasonal ingredients and ancient flavors.

Dine on homemade bread, vegetables, and meats cooked in the wood-fired oven, all served on antique dishware with years of family history. For dessert, try the “ladies’ kisses,” an almond ball coated in sugar and wrapped in white paper with fringed edges—a popular sweet in the south of Italy.

Learn generational stories around the dinner table, mingle with other guests in the gorgeous greenery lined stone courtyard, and enjoy time in a beautiful, warm home full of cultural history and memories.

Prepare for lots of food and laughter around the table at home restaurant Da Zia Pinuccia.

Ancient Tombs—Waiting for the Afterlife

In terms of archaeological history, Montessu is one of the most important dig sites in Sardinia—due to its fascinating position along a moss-covered rockface and its significance in the study of prehistoric funerary rituals. The approximately 40 ancient cave-like tombs here, shaped with stone pickaxes, are called “fairy houses.” Often modeled after houses of the living, with multiple chambers, more than 3,500 of these are scattered across Sardinia, and legend says they belonged to tiny fairies who provided safe havens for the dead while they slept until passage into the afterlife.

Uncovered from the earth at Montessu have been artifacts such as obsidian, bronze, jasper, lead pieces for slingshots, etched coins, silver nails, and knives. Categorized necropolis finds from Montessu are displayed at archaeological museums in nearby Santadi and Cagliari.

At Montessu, a 124-step stone staircase leads to more than 40 prehistoric tombs set along a rockface. Climb inside Tomb 10 (right and left photos) and down the wooden ladder for a peek inside the hollowed-out formation.

A scenic forest climb at the nearby Pani Loriga archaeological site leads to similarly constructed tombs—with evidence the interiors were painted with pigments—and the remains of a Punic settlement. Hilltop discoveries include masks, jugs, amulets, bracelets, and charms. Also found was a terracotta kernos, an ancient vase with several small cups attached to its rim for the purpose of filling with resins, oil, food, and wine for ritual activities. The walk across these grounds reveals shallow pits in the dirt where wild boars burrow for roots.

Fairy tombs cut into the rocks at Pani Loriga were found to have been painted with pigments.
Fairy tombs cut into the rocks at Pani Loriga were found to have been painted with pigments.
Pani Loriga archaeological site shows evidence of early settlements in the form of artifacts and structural remains.
Fairy tombs cut into the rocks at Pani Loriga were found to have been painted with pigments.

Another intriguing peek into the past can be found at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village, often called “Is Gruttas” (the caves). This grouping of Punic tombs from the late 6^th and late 3^rd century B.C. was repurposed as makeshift homes for poor townspeople who lived there by necessity in 1700 and again in 1912. Offering a glimpse into prior, difficult daily lives, these rooms show where the poorest villagers once lived, with some making bags and crafts to sell to rich citizens.

The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.
The poorest classes in the district once lived in repurposed burial chambers at Sant’Antioco’s Hypogeum Village—tombs that are now set up with artifacts and furnishings to show visitors a glimpse of past life.

Situated on a high plateau, the Archaeological Park of Monte Sirai is divided into three areas—the high-settlement, the necropolises (13 underground family tombs), and the open-air tophet, where the ashes of infants and stillborn children were buried in urns. Enter through the North Gate public area to see the Temple of Ashtart ruins and where a Nuragic tower and water tank were once erected. From here, appreciate a panorama view of the entire region, including the Archipelago of Sulcis comprising Sant’Antioco and San Pietro islands.

This house at the Monte Sirai hilltop settlement had an inner courtyard and five rooms.

With archaeological sites and sacred cultural complexes set against rugged, unspoiled scenery, Sant’Antioco and Sardinia’s southwest make their layered past feel unusually present—in tombs carved from rock, in salt drawn from lagoon waters, in pre-phylloxera vines, and in the food and drink still served at family tables.

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Cruising the Loire River with CroisiEurope

Mouthwatering meals, comfortable accommodations and excursions to grand French chateaux highlight travels on the Loire Princesse, a great way to see France

By Randy Mink

Those who have cruised the Danube, Rhine, Seine and other popular rivers of Europe might put a fresh new destination on their radar—the Loire Valley of western France.

Gliding gently from east to west through the center of France, the Loire River flows past fertile fields, rolling hills and countless palaces and castles. Only one ship—CroisiEurope Cruises’ 96-passenger Loire Princesse—offers this route, and I was onboard November 2025.

On a five-day/four-night itinerary from Nantes, my daughter, her husband and I sailed to the Atlantic port of Saint-Nazaire and then headed east to visit the opulent Renaissance-era chateaux and do some wine tasting. To reach Nantes, we rode for two hours and 19 minutes on a high-speed train from Paris, where we spent three days both before and after the cruise.

Left: CroisiEurope’s 96-passenger Loire Princesse, shown here in Nantes, is the only ship offering overnight cruises on France’s Loire River. (Randy Mink Photo) Top Right: The lounge/bar is the gathering spot for guests of the Loire Princesse. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope Cruises) Bottom Right: Loire Princesse passengers have a chance to meet the chef and other staff members at a gala cocktail party in the lounge/bar. (Randy Mink Photo)

Enchanting Nantes

A pleasant surprise, Nantes was a highlight of our 10-day trip to France. I had never heard much about it and was expecting just another big city, but the most westerly of France’s large urban centers turned out to be a charmer.

In the heart of town, just steps from the Loire Princesse dock, lies Les Machines de L’ile, one of Nantes’ premier tourist attractions. At this gallery/workshop where oversized mechanical animals come alive, a group of us from the ship saw demonstrations of a giant spider, ant, heron, sloth, caterpillar, chameleon and other creatures in motion. Occupying former shipyard buildings in a reimagined district that preserves reminders of Nantes’ maritime past, it’s a one-of-a-kind artistic project inspired by the fantasy worlds of science-fiction novelist Jules Verne (a native of Nantes), Leonardo da Vinci’s mechanical aesthetic and the city’s industrial history.

Getting the most attention at Les Machines de L’ile is the Grand Elephant, which can be seen ambling along the quay carrying up to 50 people on its back. Made of steel and wood and fitted with a hybrid engine, the 39-foot-high, 48-ton creation has been offering rides since 2007 and is practically a symbol of modern Nantes, the sixth-largest city in France. Robotic-like, he walks by the project’s massive Marine Worlds Carousel, a three-story, interactive crowd-pleaser populated by sea animals that riders can manipulate with ropes and levers.

mechanical elephant with people aboard — The Grand Elephant, a mechanical wonder at Les Machines de L’ile in Nantes, lumbers along the quayside, just steps from the Loire River. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

Before boarding the ship, we had a chance to poke around Nantes’ historic core, a compact area dominated by two attractions dating from the 15th century—the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul and Castle of the Dukes of Brittany. Exhibits in the castle museum chronicle the city’s history. You can stroll the ramparts for free. Also worth a look is the 1843 Passage Pommeraye, a covered shopping gallery with a monumental iron-and-glass roof.

interior of a shopping mall — Tourists exploring Nantes’ historic core will want to take a peek at Passage Pommeraye, a shopping mall dating back to 1843. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

people relaxing on lawn outside of a castle — The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany in Nantes houses a museum that chronicles the city’s history. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

cathedral with people outside of it — The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul is a Gothic gem in Nantes’ historic district. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope Cruises)

Saint-Nazaire: Shipbuilding Center on the Atlantic

Downstream from Nantes, at the mouth of the Loire, resides the great shipbuilding center of Saint-Nazaire. On our shore excursion, I made good use of touchscreens, videos and a handheld audio guide during an immersive virtual voyage into the heyday of ocean liners at Escal’Atlantique, a museum housed in a German WWII submarine base a short walk from the Loire Princesse’s berth.

Besides furniture, artwork, dinnerware and large sections of paneling and other decor fragments, the museum showcases re-creations of staterooms and elegant public spaces of legendary French Line ships like the Normandie, a 1930s classic built in Saint-Nazaire. A movie with archival footage provides a timeline of important chapters in trans-Atlantic ship travel and explains how the airlines, beginning in the late 1950s, made ocean crossings a relic of the past. Visions of the ill-fated Titanic surface as your museum visit ends with a ride in a lifeboat that’s lowered to the floor below.

From the roof of the old submarine base, I could see the MSC World Asia under construction at Chantiers de l’Atlantique, one of the few shipyards that builds today’s mega liners. Our cruise did not include a visit there, but normally a shipyard tour is part of the program.

museum lifeboat — Guests of Escal’Atlantique, a Saint-Nazaire museum that chronicles the heyday of trans-Atlantic ocean travel, end their visit by riding in a lifeboat that’s lowered to the floor below. (Randy Mink Photo)

music room with piano and couches — A re-creation of the cozy first-class music room of the French Line’s Liberté, an ocean liner built in 1950, is on display at Escal’Atlantique. (Randy Mink Photo)

coasters and coffee mugs in a souvenir shop — Maritime-themed souvenirs fill the shelves of the gift shop at Escal’Atlantique. (Randy Mink Photo)

Loire Princesse Amenities and Mealtimes

The Loire Princesse, a product of Saint-Nazaire’s shipyards, was built in 2015. Sporting side paddlewheels, the floating hotel is outfitted with a shallow draft suited to Loire River travel.

In fact, “the MS Loire Princesse was engineered specifically for this river,” says Sandrah Gurash, North America general manager for CroisiEurope. “As this is a ‘wild’ river, water levels are not controlled by lock systems and it can impact navigation abilities. The shallow draft and paddlewheels allow her to navigate the river in all but extreme water level conditions.”

The 30 Upper Deck cabins feature a sliding panoramic window and a terrace with two chairs and a table, while the deck below has 18 cabins with high windows. I liked how my bed faced the terrace and appreciated the ample closet space and floor-to-ceiling mirror. Bright and white, the room and bathroom showed no signs of aging.

Large windows grace the Loire Princesse’s lounge/bar, where the fun and music happens. One night in this welcoming living room, we were serenaded with traditional Breton songs performed by a spunky duo that encouraged audience participation. The lounge’s outdoor patio affords great landscape views. One level above, the Sun Deck offers 360° panoramas.

The best part of a CroisiEurope cruise, we had heard, is the refined French cuisine, and the Loire Princesse culinary team did not disappoint. Indeed, mealtimes in the restaurant merited exclamation points. The courses were artfully presented, the ingredients top quality, the sauces phenomenal. Each lunch and dinner (a plated meal orchestrated by a chef from Cameroon) seemed to outdo the previous one. Breakfast was a bountiful buffet. The cruise fare includes all drinks with meals and at the bar.

My favorite dinner started with assorted canapes and a silky, melt-in-your-mouth duck foie gras, followed by a quail filet in port wine sauce, brie filled with mascarpone and the grand finale—baked Alaska flambéed in Grand Marnier. A memorable lunch starred leek quiche and salmon steak in a white butter sauce the region is known for.

Our lunches and dinners did not include a choice of main course, but, starting in 2027, a selection of mains will be standard on all CroisiEurope river and canal cruises.

slice of quiche on a plate — Leek quiche is served for lunch in the Loire Princesse’s restaurant. (Randy Mink Photo)

cruise ship dining room — Gourmet meals await passengers in the Loire Princesse’s restaurant. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope Cruises)

Clisson Walking Tour and Muscadet Wine Route

Heading east from Nantes on Day 3, our shore excursion took us to Clisson, a pretty village centered in picturesque castle ruins. Steps away from the medieval fortress is Clisson Market, a timber-framed structure where vendors sell fresh fruit and vegetables and locally caught fish. Rebuilt in the 19th century in the Italian architectural style, Clisson easily could pass for a town in Tuscany.

At our next stop, we gathered in a tasting room at Chateau Cassemichère to try several types of Muscadet, a dry white wine with a fruity bouquet that’s perfect with fish and seafood. The countryside south and east of Nantes has almost 400 wine growers, with Muscadet accounting for 80 percent of everything produced.

Walking tours of historic Clisson include a stop at the covered market. (Randy Mink Photo)

Loire Princesse shore excursions visit the picturesque French village of Clisson. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

Chateau Hopping in the Loire Valley

Our last day’s shore tour spotlighted two of the central Loire Valley’s most magnificent country estates—Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau and Chateau de Villandry. Both fulfilled my visions of stately French manors. But it was the latter that really captured my imagination, thanks to the elaborate geometric patterns of its terraced, Italian-influenced flower, vegetable and herb gardens, a photogenic display attended by 10 full-time gardeners.

A Loire Princesse shore excursion includes a visit to Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau, one of the Loire Valley’s grand Renaissance-era estates. (Randy Mink Photo)

At Chateau de Villandry, you’ll see tulips, begonias, roses, forget-me-nots and other flowers, depending on time of year. Some of the hedges are shaped into symbols, including hearts, fans and daggers. Planted throughout the estate are 1,015 lime trees.

chateau surrounded by flowering gardens — Chateau de Villandry is famed for its beautiful gardens. (Photo credit: Pixabay)

Panoramic views of the adjacent village and manicured gardens are available from atop the 12th century tower, the walled compound’s only remnant from medieval times. The chateau in its present form was built in 1536 by the finance minister of Francois I. Over the centuries, owners have included an ambassador of Louis XV and a brother of Napoleon I.

sitting room with large tapestry on the back wall — Sumptuous interiors awe visitors to Chateau de Villandry. (Randy Mink Photo)

In 1906, Joachim Carvallo and his wife, Ann Coleman, scientists from Spain and America respectively, took over Chateau de Villandry and restored its interiors and gardens. They were passionate collectors of old paintings, particularly 17th century Spanish art; some are on display. Of special note is the Oriental Drawing Room’s exquisite ceiling, a creation of Moorish craftsmen that came from a 15th century palace near Toledo, Spain. Joachim and Ann’s great-grandson, Henri Carvallo, now runs the estate and lives with his family in the former stables.

Ah, to be lord of the castle. The thought may be only a dream for us commoners, but it’s fun to fantasize. Having a chance to traipse through the Loire Valley’s aristocratic estates, along with receiving royal treatment onboard the Loire Princesse, is privilege enough for me. For more information on Loire River and other CroisiEurope cruises, log on to www.croisieuroperivercruises.com.

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Dining in Madrid Is More Than Just Dinner

Flamenco dancer and guitar player on stage

Story and photos by Alison Ramsey

Madrid, the colorful capital of Spain, has a vibrant culinary scene with myriad eatery options to bring visitors closer to the city’s authentic culture, traditions, and characters. To make the most of a visit, vary mealtime experiences by trying unique gastronomy options and formats.

Progressive Dinner Offers Premium Food Experience

Elysian Tales, the passion project of charismatic Marwa Preston, brings guests on a multi-stop fully customized progressive dinner throughout the city, with short walking trips between venues.

Woman at dinner table — Marwa Preston, backed by a Spanish-tiled wall at La Carmencita, sits with iced red
vermouth, served in its traditional small glass.

Michelin-Starred Fine Dining

One example program begins at the elegant, Michelin-starred Saddle restaurant, whose red velvet armchairs, full-ceiling skylights, and modern gold accents imbue sophistication and style. Join the chefs in the kitchen, where they teach participants to artfully scrape a creamy oval-shaped “butter quenelle” from a mountain of French butter to go with homemade sourdough bread and sparkling Corpinnat wine from Catalonia.

Friendly kitchen staff walk guests through plating a colorful vegetable course, using silver tweezers to decorate swirls of flavor with purple cauliflower, figs, carrots, strawberries, and edible flowers, and garnishing with fresh horseradish and sea salt. The quality of ingredients and combinations of interesting tastes here are beyond comparison, and the feeling of making it yourself alongside professional chefs in a gourmet kitchen is unmatched.

Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Progressive dinner participants at Saddle learn the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.
Marwa Preston of Elysian Tales and the Saddle staff teach diners the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.

Homestyle Comfort Food

A leisurely walk past the stately Supreme Court of Spain and Church of Santa Bárbara leads to friendly Chuecha neighborhood bistro La Carmencita Tavern. The second oldest tavern in Madrid and a famous locale for writers to frequent, this lively venue is full of locals sipping red vermouth (white wine infused with caramelized sugar and botanicals), nibbling in-house marinated olives, and sampling savory cheeses with honey farmed from the outskirts of Madrid. Preston described their Spanish version of “Russian salad” as tuna, potatoes, green peas, and vegetables, and “everyone from Spain will tell you their mom’s recipe is the best.”

A grandma’s-home-cooking recipe of beef pate on bread, and Mediterranean anchovies comprise bar food typical in this “Soho of Madrid” area. At this homey site where three generations of Carmens lived, the elaborately decorated Spanish tiles on the walls are all original, and the dining room used to be the house’s bedroom.

Dining room and appetizer plates — Red vermouth and traditional tapas make up a cozy homestyle meal at La Carmencita
Tavern.

Romantic Date-Night Atmosphere

Moody candlelight, rough-hewn wooden tables, open-flame ovens, dramatic wall art, and a vast collection of high-level wines make Charrúa Madrid a romantic stop on the journey. Fresh rosemary is burned 30 minutes before dinner service, and the pleasant aroma stimulates senses and heightens the dining experience.

Begin with hot beef consommé rich with vitamins and minerals, creamy cauliflower puree (“90% cauliflower and 10% butter,” said Preston) with freshly shaved truffles, and seasoned tomatoes. Roasted red pepper is served alongside tender, free-roaming grass-fed Retinta beef sirloin to bring out the meat’s flavor, with the acidity of the pepper cutting through the meat’s fattiness.

Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.

Dessert is torrija, a Spanish version of French toast that involves homemade brioche soaked in milk infused with cinnamon, orange rind, and lemon peel, and nested with yogurt ice cream. Preston explained that this is a typical Easter dish in Spain, although that time of year the bread is often soaked in wine instead of milk.

Despite the rich flavors in these courses, the food sits lightly in the stomach and is not fried, like many of the ham croquetas (deep-fried fritters) and bombas (fried mashed potato balls) served in touristy locations. With a short walk in between restaurants on this dining tour, guests don’t leave feeling stuffed and uncomfortable.

Funky Cocktail Bar

Wrap up the evening at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas, a venue with a Vegas-style disco bar, DJ, private karaoke screen, and room dedicated to Julio Iglesias in the back. Pick your garnish of choice (cinnamon, ginger, pepper, sugar cubes, dried lime) and describe your favorite flavors, scents, or even your favorite vinyl record, and the host will create a drink they sense will match your taste.

The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.
Select favorite garnishes at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas and receive a custom-made beverage to match your taste.
The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.

The front restaurant area has a crocheted ceiling, handmade mosaic floors, Murano-glass–covered towers, many mirrors, and walls are hand-painted with Madrid panoramas. It is truly a unique scene and novel way to end an evening of gastronomic exploration.

This curated culinary experience by Elysian Tales allows visitors to experience the food selections and scenes at several different types of eateries even if they only spend a few days in Madrid.

Other Distinctive Dining Options in Madrid

Local Castilian and Madrid Cuisine

Dine at traditional Madrid establishment Posada de la Villa for a taste of Castilian and Madrid cuisine, including roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven (absolutely delicious, with tender meat falling off the bone), Bellota Iberian ham, Manchego cheese, homemade croquetas, tuna and tomato salad, Dehesa Valquejigoso wine, and “Posadero’s Dessert” trio of pastry, fried milk, and cheesecake. Dark wood and brick wall interiors, Iberian ham hanging from the rafters, excellent flavors, quality service, and an active scene of locals, people on business lunches, and foodies make this historic stop one to remember.

Traditional Madrid dining at Posada de la Villa includes local wines and roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven.

Wine Masterclass and Tasting

Explore Madrid’s wine culture and cuisine by taking a masterclass at Vinology. At this wine bar and restaurant, sommelier and founder, Pilar Oltra, guides guests through an exploration of Madrid’s four wine-producing regions—Arganda del Rey, Navalcarnero, San Martín de Valdeiglesias, and El Molar—made up of almost 22 acres of vineyards and 45 wineries.

Learn about grape varieties, terroir (the unique combination of climate, soil, terrain, and tradition that shape the character of a wine), and sample five wines alongside five creative tapas, including homemade foie mi-cuit (semi-cooked duck) with quince, cecina (smoked beef) with toasted almonds and extra virgin olive oil, and anchovy with Iberian jowl.

Pilar Oltra, sommelier and founder of Vinology, stands by her storefront.
Snack and sample during an informative wine masterclass at Vinology.
Sommelier Pilar Oltra explains Madrid’s wine culture and regions during a tasting and masterclass at Vinology.

Dinner and Flamenco Show

The oldest, most prestigious, and most famous flamenco tablao (wooden stage) in the world is Corral de la Morería. Paired with its Michelin-starred haute cuisine designed by head chef, David García, this cultural dinner-and-show is a memorable way to involve all the senses in one evening experience.

Savor scallop carpaccio with tomato tartar, dates, and coconut ajoblanco (cold soup); poultry egg yolk over ropa vieja (shredded beef); sea bass and gilda (skewer of olive, anchovy, and pepper); and fruit sorbet or caramelized French toast made with fresh milk and served with banana ice cream.

For six decades, flamenco icons have graced the Corral de la Morería stage to showcase their art, and the venue is frequented by celebrities and visitors from across the globe (e.g., Frank Sinatra, Dua Lipa, Gloria Estefan). Here, the singers, dancers, and guitar players use feet, eyes, tongues, wrists, fingers, and flowing costumes to tell a dramatic story in sound and movement, with no translation needed, and present a new show every 7-10 days.

Flamenco dancer waving cape — A dramatic and sound-rich story is expressed on the Corral de la Moreria *tablao*.

“It’s the only dance in the world where the music follows the dancers,” said Armando del Rey, an owner of the family-run business his father, Manuel, began in 1956. Manuel hired Armando’s mother, Blanca, a very well-known choreographer and dancer in Spain, and Manuel and Blanca soon fell in love. Now, Manuel and his brother, Juanma, work with artistic director Blanca in the restaurant sector as well. Corral de la Morería is the only restaurant in the world with a Michelin star that has a dinner and tablao, and it is listed in The New York Times bestseller “1,000 Places to See Before You Die.”

Jazz Entertainment Club

For dinner and drinks in a flashy club atmosphere, make a reservation at the bustling two-story Pabblo. Here guests are treated to Mediterranean cooking from a wood-fired oven and charcoal grill, classic and innovative cocktails, Picasso-inspired décor, and live band music with lounge singers, dancers, and aerial silk artists.

Lounge singer performs with band — A live band, sultry singers, and glittering dancers present a high-energy show at
Pabblo’s dinner seating.

Between hummus, tuna tartar, fish and lamb courses, and a fun make-your-own ice cream sundae dessert platter, you’ll hear smooth saxophone jams, watch sequined showgirls shimmy and strut, and see a graceful gymnast draped around aerial ribbons and descending through the open ceiling from the upper level. Entertainment while eating is an exceptional way to end an evening out on the town.

Four Seasons’ Restaurants and Rooftop

The first Four Seasons hotel in Spain is found within an enormous and beautiful property block composed of seven historic buildings with a national-heritage–protected external façade. Within this complex, shop at Canalejas Gallery, the new luxury shopping arcade in central Madrid housing 40 boutiques and prestigious brands such as Dior, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Armani, Tom Ford, and Tumi.

After browsing or buying, easily head to Four Seasons’ El Patio lobby bar (featuring the original marble columns and concierge desk from when the room used to be the operations area of the Spanish Credit Bank), the Isa Asian cuisine restaurant and cocktail bar, or Dani Brasserie for signature Mediterranean and Andalusian dishes and drinks on the top level.

Four Seasons’ rooftop patio looks into the Dani Brasserie dining room.
The rooftop patio of Dani Brasserie at the Four Seasons affords splendid views of Madrid’s Gran Via street.

At Dani Brasserie, don’t miss chef Dani García’s famous and savory “Red Tuna Descargamento,” served in a delicate rose shape, with yellow bell peppers, lime, and olive oil. From the rooftop patio outside the dining room, admire Madrid’s city lights, cool night air, and stunning panoramic views.

WHEN YOU GO…

Stay at the centrally located Hotel Villa Real for easy access to the Prado Museum, Retiro Park, Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum, Royal Palace of Madrid, and Gran Via high-end shopping street.

The vast breakfast buffet and attentive waitstaff will ensure you start your mornings fueled with fresh coffee and juice, plenty of meats and cheeses, fresh and dried fruits, pastries, cereals, and eggs-to-order. On your way to breakfast, explore the art and archeology collection in the hotel’s museum, which holds restored Roman mosaics and sculptures, and a private collection of painted Apulian vases.

Breakfast at Hotel Villa Real is varied, colorful, and fresh.

The East 47 bar and restaurant off the front lobby serves drinks, tapas, crisp salads, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes—with terrace seating out front in Plaza de las Cortes during warmer summer months.

For more information about Madrid, go to Visit Madrid.

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Spain’s Enchanting City of Flowery Patios

Medieval charm and floral beauty captivate visitors to Cordoba

Story and photos by Randy Mink

As you’re exploring the cobbled streets of this sun-kissed city in Southern Spain’s Andalusia region, it’s a smart move to escape the heat by stepping into a leafy courtyard festooned with flowers, draped in greenery and surrounded by thick, whitewashed walls. Harking back to Cordoba’s deep Arabic roots, these cool oases cast a magical spell.

Tucked into the largest urban historic center in Spain, the city’s trademark patios have always been a chief tourist draw. Architectural gems as well as horticultural havens, they mirror the tradition of cultivating flowers and plants introduced by the Moors when the Iberian Peninsula was ruled from Cordoba by Muslim emirs and caliphs. A respected seat of learning and artistic expression during its heyday in the 10th and early 11th centuries, Cordoba reigned as medieval Europe’s cultural capital, a city second in importance only to Constantinople. Christians, under King Ferdinand III of Castile, conquered Cordoba in 1236, ending five centuries of Muslim rule.

Tourists can take in the horticultural splendor on a tour of private patios in Cordoba’s San Basilio neighborhood.
Tourists can take in the horticultural splendor on a tour of private patios in Cordoba’s San Basilio neighborhood.

For two weeks every May, Cordoba celebrates its blooming courtyards during the Patio Festival (Festival de los Patios), an event held annually since 1921. About 50 private homes, competing for awards as the loveliest, open up their inner sanctums to the public—for free.

On my trip to Cordoba this past October, I was still able to view some private patios. In the San Basilio neighborhood, our group booked a tour (offered nearly year-round) that got us into the patios of five houses dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, a time when several poor families shared a communal courtyard. The common kitchen in some patios has been preserved and is on display. But the stars of the show are pots brimming with geraniums, impatiens, petunias, marigolds and other flower varieties, along with vines, shrubbery, rose bushes, and cascades of jasmine and raspberry-red bougainvillea. Orange, lemon, olive and fig trees also set the stage in these lush mini paradises, one of which is occupied by artisan shops specializing in handcrafted leather, ceramics, silver jewelry and perfumes.

FLORA: Blending Art and Nature

My October visit coincided with a relatively new cultural event that nods to Cordoba’s floral and botanical heritage. Called FLORA, the week-long, free-admission festival features five installations in public courtyards within walking distance of each other in the historic center. Using plants and other natural materials, five international artists vie for monetary prizes. We saw creations by competitors from Mexico, Brazil, the United States and Spain.

Bamboo canes and fountains in an art installation — Bamboo canes and fountains dominate the winning entry in FLORA 2025, an annual competition between international artists using plants and other natural materials to create large installations in existing patios in Cordoba.

FLORA 2025’s first-place winner was Wagner Kreusch, a Brazilian who fashioned a monumental structure out of green bamboo canes, fountains, a misting feature, and purple and white aspidistra flowers. Titled Rio Flotante, or “Floating River,” his entry wowed onlookers at Palacio de Viana, the estate of the aristocratic marquises of Viana until 1980. Now a major tourist attraction, the 16th century palace has 12 plant-filled patios, each with a story to tell, and rooms displaying collections of furniture, weapons, porcelain, tapestries and paintings.

Cordoba’s Historic Heart

Threads of Christian and Jewish history, intertwined with vestiges of Roman, Visigoth and Moorish rule, emerge from every corner of Cordoba’s UNESCO-recognized historic quarter, a tourist-friendly maze of narrow lanes snaking between white buildings adorned with iron-grillwork windows, doors and balconies.

city gate and ancient walls — This surviving city gate provides entry through the ancient walls of Cordoba’s historic center.

Practically all the city’s top sights lie within this easily walkable district, but it’s also fun just to wander and get lost in the labyrinth, where flower-decked patios, orange trees, and festive taverns and outdoor cafes typify the gracious lifestyle of Andalusia, the region that conjures up our most romantic visions of Spain. Within the old city walls, you’ll also find plenty of souvenir shops. A highlight for our group was a rousing flamenco show with dinner at El Jaleo, an intimate room where dancers electrified us with some thunderous stomping.

people walking down narrow street of shops — The intimate lanes of Cordoba’s historic center provide ideal settings for shopping, relaxing at cafes and just getting lost in medieval times.

Jewish Quarter

The medieval Jewish Quarter, or Juderia, is the historic core’s most atmospheric neighborhood, and its pleasures lay right outside the door of our hotel, the NH Collection Amistad Cordoba. Featuring flower-decked alleyways and patios, along with reminders of Jewish culture that flourished in Cordoba long ago, the quarter is home to the Synagogue, built in 1315. No longer used for worship, it’s the only Jewish temple in Andalusia to survive the Inquisition in 1492, when Jews were expelled from Spain or forced to convert to Christianity. Inside the small building you see Hebrew inscriptions, Arabic decoration and even a Cross (it was used as a church in the 19th century). For many years the Jews lived in harmony with the Muslims and some held prestigious positions in the government, professions and arts. Toledo claims Spain’s other two remaining medieval synagogues.

town street with people sitting at cafe tables — Cordoba’s atmospheric Jewish Quarter offers souvenir shops, cafes and a cozy medieval feel.

Nearby, in a beautifully restored 14th century house, Casa de Sefarad is a museum that tells the story of the Sephardic Jews in Iberia and other Mediterranean lands (a group differentiated from the Ashkenazi Jews of Central and Eastern Europe).

At the Bullfighting Museum (Museo Taurino), right across the plaza from my hotel, I learned about some of Cordoba’s greatest matadors. Though much of the exhibit text was in Spanish only, the two short audio-visual presentations provided an option in English. With a wrap-around screen, one film puts you right in the middle of the ring with a ferocious bull.

Cordoba’s Crown Jewel: The Mezquita

First-time Cordoba visitors make a beeline to the Mezquita, a former mosque that has been a church since the 13th century. Rather than destroy the mosque, the Christians decided to modify it. In fact, the church—complete with an elaborate main altar, a giant nave, an organ, religious artwork, tombs of important citizens and intricately carved Cuban mahogany choir stalls—appears to have been plopped smack into the middle of the mosque. The cavernous Mezquita (Spanish for “Mosque”) was once the second largest mosque in the world after the Great Mosque in Mecca.

A seemingly endless forest of columns and arches mesmerizes visitors to the Mezquita, a mosque turned church. It is Cordoba’s most important tourist sight.
The Mezquita’s bell tower was built over the mosque’s minaret around 1600.
The Mezquita, once the second-largest mosque in the world, has been a Catholic church since the 13th century.

The Mezquita’s most dazzling sight is the endless forest of marble, granite and onyx columns topped with red-and-white-striped, horseshoe-shaped double arches, Islamic style; many of the pillars were recycled from Roman and Visigothic times. Fashioned over the centuries from a jumble of architectural styles, the dimly lit Mosque-Cathedral, as it’s known, is vast, mysterious and hard to wrap your head around. The columned arcades seem to march on forever, melting into infinity. There is no other building like it.

I wanted to climb the Mezquita’s bell tower (built around 1600 over remains of the mosque’s minaret), but tickets for the day were sold out. So, I crossed the Guadalquivir River via the 2,000-year-old Roman Bridge, a wide pedestrian walkway, and took in panoramic views from the rooftop terrace of the Calahorra Tower, a crenellated 1369 structure that houses a museum of Andalusian culture.

The rooftop terrace of Calahorra Tower affords fine views of Cordoba’s historic center, the Roman Bridge and the Guadalquivir River.
The Roman Bridge, a wide pedestrian walkway, spans the Guadalquivir River.

The bridge and Mezquita are a short walk from Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, residence of the Christian monarchs. The palace-fortress currently is closed for renovations, but I enjoyed walking through its terraced gardens, admiring the plantings and statuary. One sculpture depicts Christopher Columbus being received by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, sponsors of his 1492 voyage to the New World.

three tall statues in a garden — The Alcazar Gardens in Cordoba feature a sculpture of Christopher Columbus being received by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.

flower pot with garden and trees — The terraced gardens of the Alcazar palace/fortress are a must-see in Cordoba.

When it comes to destinations in Andalusia, Cordoba often gets short shrift, as Seville and Granada tend to get the most attention. But Cordoba should be on every traveler’s radar. Indeed, this overlooked city merits a day or two for a good looking over.

For more information log on to www.spain.info/en/destination/cordoba/

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Discover Nürnberg’s Many Medieval Layers

Women's Gate Tower entrance to Nuremberg

Story and Photos by Alison Ramsey

Nürnberg, Germany, is full of rich medieval history, with plenty of myths and mystery. The largest city in the northern region of Bavaria, often referred to as the unofficial capital of Franconia, Nürnberg displays a unique Franconian identity in terms of its culture, architecture, cuisine, and historical political structures. Explore all angles and layers of the city to learn more about what makes Nürnberg unique.

Nürnberg is easily entered through the Frauentorturm, directly across from the city’s main train station.

Enter the city through the base of the Frauentorturm (Women’s Gate Tower), and you’ll immediately find the first attraction in the initial interior lining. Craftsmen’s Courtyard is a collection of cottage industries behind the thick city wall, where small half-timbered workshops are labeled with antique signs and ornate metal fittings. Craftworkers here create pottery, glassware, candles, jewelry, leatherwork, and wooden wares. These traditional and unique gifts handmade by local artisans include leather bracelets, wallets, belts; carved wooden animals, toys, keychains, hand-carved pens, cutting boards, and kitchen utensils. Set amongst colorful flowering plants and bright-potted greenery, cafes and restaurants in this idyllic city segment serve tasty snacks, cakes, and invigorating coffee drinks.

Handcrafted gifts and homemade treats await in the Craftsmen’s Courtyard.

The Old Town’s Hauptmarkt (main market square) holds the famous Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), an intricate 14^th century 62-foot-high Gothic structure encircled by a metal railing. Forty stone figures on four of the piece’s many tiers represent the world’s varied beliefs and philosophical ideas about the Holy Roman Empire during the medieval period—in the form of church and secular leaders, evangelists, prophets, philosophers, and biblical characters. Set within the intricate railing design is a small golden ring, and legend dictates that turning this shiny brass ring three times fulfills wishes and brings good luck.

Turn the Beautiful Fountain’s brass ring three times to make your wish come true!

Right here in the main market square is where the wintertime Christkindlesmarkt Christmas market is held, but during springtime, you can find a festive Easter market in its place. Shop for leather goods, wooden crafts, embroidered linens, woven socks, wine, spring home décor, pottery, and plush toys. Try the made-on-site fried dough with powdered sugar Küchle (little cake), sugared roasted nuts, and gingerbread cookies. Of course, if you’re missing the Christkindlesmarkt, stop into the Käthe Wohlfahrt specialty shop in town to stock up on Erzgebirge handmade Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, ornaments, and toys.

The main square houses winter and spring markets filled with handcrafted wares and tasty snacks.

Nürnberg provides many restaurant options for a delicious, full sit-down meal. Zum Gulden Stern is the city’s oldest existing historical bratwurst kitchen—and the oldest in the world—dating back to 1419. Here, the famous, original Nürnberg sausages (branded as the Original Nürnberger Röstla®) are grilled over a beechwood fire in a building built around 1380. The sausages are prepared with traditional spices like mace (a sister spice to nutmeg), marjoram, salt, and pepper, by the family-run Pfettner butcher shop in Nürnberg. The characteristic smoke and aroma of beechwood infuse this delicacy with unique flavor. The sausages served at Zum Gulden Stern are never boiled or pre-fried; instead, they are placed on the grill white and raw, cooked for about 7 minutes, and then removed once the tops and bottoms are evenly browned and crispy. (Consider also visiting the Nürnberg Bratwurst Museum, which presents the myths and legends surrounding these small 7-9cm sausages the town is known for.)

Zum Gulden Stern is a historic restaurant that serves the city’s famous mini sausages.

Barrel-fermented sauerkraut grown by the Wehr family in the Aischgrund region is cooked and seasoned at Zum Gulden Stern with fresh pork lard. The vegetables, horseradish, and wines served at the restaurant are all sourced from family-owned businesses in the region, and the dishes are substantial and savory. This tavern survived all the wars, likely hosted famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer, and still serves up delicious daily-prepared meat-and-vegetable soups and famous sausages. In addition to the interesting antique wall art, the colorful wooden ceiling is patched with old brightly painted cupboard panels, to cover holes made where weighty drunken guests from older days had fallen through from the upper level.

Step into history while dining at Zum Gulden Stern, where famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer is said to have frequented.

Adina Apartment Hotel, about a 12-minute walk from the main train station, in the heart of the city, is a comfortable, clean, and convenient place to overnight in Nürnberg. The spacious studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments have fully equipped kitchens, cozy linens, and vegan personal care products, and the hotel is upscale but relaxed and inviting. Friendly, efficient, and attentive staff, and fast and accommodating room service make this an exceptional lodging choice. Breakfast in the downstairs dining area is varied and colorful, with many tasty options to help kick-start your day—fresh juices, lattes, meat and cheese platters, vegetables, cereals, dried and fresh fruits, fish filet cakes, pancakes and rolls, sweet breads, jams, eggs, and hot breakfast meat dishes (including the city’s famous sausages). After a day exploring the town, the lap pool and sauna area provide just enough space for a refreshing evening swim and relaxation in the dry heat.

Adina Apartment Hotel is a cozy place to lodge, with activities for guests of all ages.

Be sure to buy a Nürnberg Card online or at one of several Tourist Information stands, to receive a variety of free admissions and discounts. The Nürnberg Card allows you 48 hours of free access to almost all the city museums and attractions as well as free public transportation.

A three-minute walk down the street from the Adina Apartment Hotel takes you to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum), the largest cultural history museum in the German-speaking countries. Here, you can explore five exhibition areas on three levels of the museum—artifacts from the Old Stone Age to the Middle Ages, collections from Renaissance to Enlightenment, and 20^th Century masterpieces—there are multitudes of treasures to examine. The armor and hunting exhibition is especially expansive, with case after case of intricate weaponry. You’ll also find an impressive array of musical instruments, jewelry, sleighs, sculptures, and paintings.

The German National Museum exhibits magnificent artifacts from all eras.

A separate building houses the toys portion of the museum—a showcase of detailed dollhouses, dolls, tin cars and armies, optical toys, and miniature railroads. Many of the elaborate 17^th century dollhouses exhibited here were thought to be commissioned by Nürnberg’s wealthy merchants and patricians. For young people, the houses functioned as a visual representation of ideal households and a clear display of tasks and activities to be performed in each of the rooms. For example, dollhouse sitting rooms were often decorated with tea service, chess boards, and decks of cards, while kitchen layouts included hearth-cleaning tools, cake molds, soup ladles, and copper pots. Similarly, 18^th– to 20^th-century toys conveyed educational objectives relating to children’s future familial and career lives. Playing with dolls helped girls prepare for their roles as patient, gentle mothers. Boys’ toys were often linked to their potential future working lives—tin soldiers encouraged strategic thought and tactical warfare, wooden building blocks taught spatial reasoning and construction design, and other technical toys fostered special interests and skills.

Antique toys at the German National Museum give a glimpse into historic playtime and its echoes of everyday life.

Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) Nürnberg is another toy museum that displays games and playthings of all sorts—dolls, metal soldiers, puppets, teddy bears, model railroads, tin vehicles, and Playmobil figures, as well as vintage and newer iconic characters like Paddington Bear, ALF, and Garfield. Visit this museum for a bit of history and some interactive play time with toys and family games in the upstairs playroom.

Spielzeugmuseum Nürnberg displays old and new toys alike, with areas for interactive play and a building and board game zone.

Stop by Die Wirtschaft restaurant for Brotzeit (bread time), Veschber (midday snack), or Gudzerla (Franconian tapas) to nosh on a savory selection of sourdough or oven-crusted bread, marinated cheeses and sausages, pickled vegetables, and herbs. The warm and crispy Apfelküchle (specifically, fried apple rings in beer batter with homemade ice cream and plum compote) will revive you for the rest of your city exploration. For another delicious snack or dessert option, Restaurant Trödelstuben serves up hot raspberries and raspberry sauce over vanilla ice cream. If you’d like a break from traditional German food, try the KOKONO Pan-Asian Cuisine & Sushi Bar on Luitpoldstraße. Expect fresh food, seasonal flowers on all tables, and a fun presentation of dry ice mist at your table while you eat your edamame and sushi rolls.

Nürnberg culinary variety abounds, with traditional German cuisine and desserts as well as delicious Asian delicacies.

Not all the city’s most interesting sights can be found at ground level. Claudia Radtke, certified Nürnberg city guide, provides guided tours of Nürnberg’s fascinating underground worlds. Those interested in history, fortification, and ancient legal systems (and those aged 10 years and older) will enjoy the intriguing and informative tours entitled “Tunnels and Secret Passages in the City Wall” and “Medieval Dungeons.” The 14^th century dungeons in vaulted rock-cut cellars beneath the city hall contain prison cells, torture chambers, the jailer’s house, a prison kitchen, and a blacksmith’s workshop. Walk through underground corridors with damp limestone walls (use the railings and watch your step), learn about those who walked there before you, and explore the city’s ancient approaches to maintaining peace, organization, and stability.

Explore beneath the city, with exciting tours of dungeons and underground passageways.

Underneath the Imperial Castle, a network of defensive passageways wind about, with casemates and embrasures from which weapons could be fired into all angles of the moat. Interestingly, the humid tunnels were not conducive to weapon storage, so weapons were stored aboveground and brought down via a ramp during combat periods. The quarry-stone underground walls are eroded and colorful, shaped and stained from sour rain dripping through.

Don’t forget to climb up and appreciate sights from the very top of the Imperial Castle—views down into the moat and stone walkways meandering through flowering trees beneath cloud-speckled blue skies. Wealthy, strategically built, well-invested in defense, and never captured (or attacked, for that matter), Nürnberg was one of the Holy Roman Empire’s best-protected cities in Europe. The city’s history of wealth and peace is attributed to its involvement in trade, due to solving issues diplomatically and with payment rather than through warfare.

The uphill climb to the Imperial Castle rewards you with beautiful views.

After peering down from the Imperial Castle, stop at the nearby Hausbrauerei Altstadthof, known for its brewed Rotbier (red beer) and oven-fresh Schäufele (roasted pork shoulder in red beer sauce with dumplings and sauerkraut). The snug tavern area with a “hidden gem” feel is a great hangout spot for groups and couples to have a homestyle Franconian meal and a few freshly tapped craft beers. Fill up on savory Nürnberger sausages, potato soup with crusty bread, Obazda specialty Bavarian cheese, spätzle (dumpling-like irregular-shaped egg noodles), red cabbage, goulash, and a wheat- and black-beer sponge cake “Beeramisu” dessert or Apfelküchle (this menu’s variation is drizzled with custard sauce and served with vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, and almond slices).

Hausbrauerei Altstadthof serves hearty meals and tasty beer in an inviting social environment.

Tour the Old Town and learn about the city’s history while riding the Mini Train, which departs from the Beautiful Fountain at the Main Market Square and takes you on an almost hour-long loop in and around thHausbrauerei Altstadthofe city while multi-language audio headsets announce historical landmarks and relay town stories. One legend tells of German robber Eppelein von Gailingen, who allegedly escaped execution by leaping off the castle and over the moat and city wall on his horse, leaving behind hoofprints on the roof. You’ll see the half-timbered historical building built in 1446 that once housed lepers for three days during Holy Week (to provide them medical attention, clothing, and food), then became a wine storage depot, and now functions as student housing. You’ll also spot the Hangman’s Bridge, a wooden footbridge over the Pegnitz River used solely by the Nürnberg hangman between the 16^th and 19^th century to travel between his secluded home on a small island in the Pegnitz into the city, as a Middle Ages rule forbade him from contact with “honorable citizens.”

The Mini Train ride provides a comprehensive city tour while revealing town lore.

Don’t forget to visit Nürnberg’s surrounding area outside the city walls. Nürnberg Zoo is about a 25-minute ride out of the city center via public transportation. Backed by sandstone cliffs, the exhibits of pacing lions, squeaking lemurs, playful polar bears, and around 300 different animal species (about 40 considered endangered) provide guests with plenty of animal entertainment. One of the largest zoos in Europe, the Nürnberg Zoo is built on approximately 160 acres that include woodlands of ancient trees, peaceful ponds, rocky formations, and sloping walkways. Its special “climate high forest trail” is built at the treetops and allows visitors to stroll and view the zoo from above. The zoo is designed in a natural, park-like arrangement that feels very relaxed and rural. Not only open-air–enclosured animals make this place their home, but water birds and forest animals are found in the wild in this “forest preserve”-like walking zoo. There are numerous play areas for children, including a fantastic large playground with zip lines, ropes courses, giant slides, and inset trampolines—appropriate even for older kids or spirited adults.

Restaurant Waldschänke within the zoo grounds is reached via a slightly uphill walk along beautiful pathways. Indoors or out in the beer garden you can order hearty meat entrees, kid-friendly food, salads, fish dishes, Mediterranean meals, revitalizing drinks, and an extensive selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Complete with audience-interactive Culinary Theater performances, colorful murals, amusing children’s books to borrow and peruse during your meal, and an opportunity to purchase plush animals, Restaurant Waldschänke is a welcoming eatery for families.

Restaurant Waldschänke in the Nürnberg Zoo is a convenient place to power up between wildlife exhibits.

By exploring inside and outside of Nürnberg’s city walls, high above the castle moat, and even below the streets, you can go beyond surface level to uncover fascinating history and experience this medieval town’s inimitable Franconian charm.