Meet Art Wolfe

I’ve always been enthusiastic about the work I do.

Art Wolfe

ET: Of the many European countries, which country or countries do you like to photograph the most – and why?

AW: I’ve traveled to Europe a number of times over the years. In fact, my first overseas trip was to England, and 28 days later I wound up in Greece. It was very early on, and one could argue I wasn’t much of a photographer, although I thought I was at the time. Italy definitely has been one of my favorite places to go, not only for the antiquity but for the stunning scenery: the craggy Dolomites in the north, and the south’s rumbling volcanoes of Mt. Etna and Stromboli. These have yielded great opportunities and photographs over the years; I love Italy!

Equally strong for me has been France; photographing in the French Alps, in and around the Rhone River delta and up into Provence has resulted in some of my most delightful photos over the years. Iceland surely is not to be missed―its young landscape is different every time I visit.

There are huge gaps in my coverage of Europe; I dream of the day I can travel through Spain. My long-time photo assistant is from Romania, though I have yet to get to central and eastern Europe. All these places draw my attention, and it’s just a matter of time before I get there.

ET: If you were to recommend to someone to photograph the European landscape, where would you “send” them and why?

AW: Certainly it’s hard to beat the Alps, both French and Swiss. One of the striking things about the Alps is their verticality; they are very accessible initially but many of the peaks are among the most difficult peaks to climb on earth. One of my best locations has been Lac Blanc just above the ski town of Chamonix, France. I can’t overstate how stunningly beautiful Lac Blanc is as it reflects the extraordinary Chamonix Needles and Mont Blanc rising beyond.

I just love the Italian landscape, too. I love the whimsical ways the Italian farmers in Tuscany and Umbria have separated their fields by rows of cypress and pine. In addition, the rural landscapes of northern Scotland and the Isle of Skye are quite simply stunning; I have been there in the spring, when the forests around the icy, deep lochs are green and studded with bluebells. It is quite enchanting.

ET: Can you remember the first time you realized that maybe you were an “above average” photographer? How did your parents’ commercial artist business help you in your life’s work?

AW: My background initially was drawing and painting from early childhood all the way through graduating from the University of Washington, earning a degree in Fine Arts and Art Education. As far as realizing I was an above average photographer, it’s hard for me to just state that unequivocally; I would address it by saying I always realized I had an above average drive and focus. I’m rapidly approaching year 60 in my life, and the drive has not diminished. I’ve always been enthusiastic about the work that I do and sharing it with others.

Very early on I knew that whatever I wanted to do I could do it. My parents were commercial artists, and I watched my dad run his own small business. It was ingrained in me that I could do this as well. Children very often follow in the footsteps of their parents. Thankfully, my parents allowed me to pursue whatever I wanted. They had nothing but encouragement toward the arts, and in retrospect that was a blessing.

ET: You always seem to have so much fun and enthusiasm when you are photographing. Can you explain how this is?

AW: I think fun and enthusiasm is part and parcel to anyone’s occupation or passion. It’s rare in life for people to truly find their passion, especially when it’s their occupation. I feel blessed. I feel that I was destined to be a storyteller through the photographic medium, and I don’t take that lightly.

I sacrifice a lot being a photographer; I don’t have a family, I don’t have vacations, I don’t have a lot of things that people take for granted. But what I do have is a highly refined passion that gives me a deep sense of fulfillment. I can’t help but be enthusiastic and can’t help but having fun. I have a very impish sense of humor, a very free spirit about the work that I do and that just transfers to my photos. My enthusiasm is infectious; I am able to photograph people without trepidation. I have a very light spirit when I’m working around wild animals, I don’t stress about them, and they pick up on that energy so it’s a very positive experience. I wholly believe it enables me to get close to my subjects.

ET: Bad weather conditions typically thwart photography efforts. What do you think?

AW: My belief is bad weather often makes a shot. Whether it’s high winds, blowing snow or soaking rain, I get out there as long as I can protect myself and my camera. Weather makes for painterly effects: wind can be transferred into long impressionistic exposures where that sense of contrast between blurred motion and sharp focus subjects is often the difference between a mediocre photo and a great photo. So I look at bad weather conditions as the time to bundle up and get out the door!

ET: What is your advice for someone wanting to become a better than average photographer? What does it take to do this?

AW: No restraints! Just do it! There is an amazing amount of education being offered free through the internet. And some of the world’s best photographers offer amazing trips and workshops. I’d take advantage of that. Just jump in and immerse yourself into the world of photography and you will learn quickly.

ET: How do you determine where to go when you’re going to film your next show and how long does it take to arrange each edition of your show?

AW: My location choices for “Art Wolfe’s Travels to the Edge” were based on 30 years of knowledge about the world. After months of research and arrangements, each episode took an average of two weeks to film. The post production process added another couple months. It is a long process to get from idea to actual broadcast.

ET: Where did the name “Travels to the Edge” come from? (It’s a great line!)

AW: “Travels to the Edge” is based on my book Edge of the Earth, Corner of the Sky. It seemed like I traveled to the edges of the earth to photograph for that book. For the show name, my staff and I threw out words and started mixing and matching and ultimately settled upon “Travels to the Edge.” I thank you for the compliment and I agree, it’s a great line!

Traditional Holland

By Don Heimburger

Over 60% of world trade in flowers and plants takes place via Dutch auctions.

The Netherlands may be a small country, but it’s packed with world famous icons. Discover bulb fields, windmills, cheese markets, wooden shoes, the canals of Amsterdam, masterpieces of the Old Masters, Delft Blue earthenware, innovative water management and millions of bicycles. Find out more about these and other typical Dutch highlights. www.holland.com

Meet Rick Steves

European Traveler chats with travel guru Rick Steves

Why did you choose to start your company, Europe Through the Back Door, rather than do something else, or even work for a travel company?

I was inspired by being a customer of other teachers/tour guides to teach and guide in a way I thought was better. Taking a travel class poorly taught about taking the bus from Istanbul to Nepal showed me the frustration and lost opportunity of a traveler who had the experience but was too lazy and disorganized to share it effectively with his student travelers…So I became a travel teacher. Escorting big bus tours in the 1970s showed me the built-in conflicts of interest between guides and tour members as well as the potential value of a thoughtful and well-organized tour company…So I decided to develop my own formula for a tour company. From the start, I’ve enjoyed making my own rules and having fun with my business.


What one or two reasons do you point to as reasons you’ve been successful?

We have been true to our mission statement since before we had one…to inspire and teach American travelers to enjoy Europe economically, efficiently, and thoughtfully. Nothing I do in my business supports itself. Everything overlaps and is therefore a better value than normal — as well as profitable.


Do you have a personal and/or business philosophy you’d like to share?

Life if too short to drink cheap wine or work with people you don’t respect and enjoy.


Was there ever a time for whatever reason you thought about selling the business or doing something else? If so, what compelled you not to?

A long time ago at that difficult stage when I was transitioning from a single entrepreneurial teacher to someone with a paid staff it was challenging and I considered becoming a high school teacher. Then I realized I am a teacher…free as a bird with the best students anywhere…smart people who slept through their history and art classes before they knew they had a trip coming up. Now they’re Europe-bound and wish they knew who the Etruscans were. I haven’t looked back since.

I’d assume people underestimate how difficult it is to run a travel-related business — that it must be like being on vacation all the time. What is the biggest misperception about your work?

Nobody understands the reality from a footwork point of view of researching and writing good guidebooks.


How did you deal with the challenges of a growing company — I imagine at some point as the company has grown, you have had to relinquish some day-to-day control over some aspects. Was it difficult? How have you dealt with growing pains in the business?

I have learned to delegate. That was tough. Now I happily don’t know how to issue a Eurail pass. I honestly don’t know our store hours…that’s a good thing. I produce in my corner of the building. I am one of five on our “business team” which functions as what I think of as a “virtual ceo.”


What advice do you have for those who have to be on the road when they don’t necessarily want to be away from home and family?

Bring work or reading you enjoy to make the plane ride a blessing. Take a moment to homey up your hotel room (with your favorite munchies, photos of loved ones). Assuming you’re going someplace interesting, get out there and enjoy it. Be a temporary local. Sure you’ve got plenty of reasons to be homesick…but for now you live there. Immerse yourself in it all.


Where do you see yourself and your company in five, ten years?

Exactly where I am now only with much more teaching horsepower.


What are your company’s annual revenues? Can you give me a sense of how that has grown?

I think we’re pushing $30 million gross with 70 employees. While we’ve grown a lot, we are the same culture of travelers.

Any other advice for entrepreneurs or those thinking of starting their own business?

Don’t hire relatives.

York, UK: A Medieval City Ringed With Walls and Featuring Hidden Gems

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author and courtesy York Tourism

While London plays a key role in tourism in the United Kingdom, there are other cities in the U.K. that, while perhaps not as large in size or offering as many attractions, still rank high on the thrill meter.

One of these is York, which is worth a couple of days to explore and get to know. It’s accessible from Manchester Airport, an international hub that sees hundreds of flights each day from around the world. By train from the airport, York is about an hour’s ride.

Let’s take a tour of the walled city of York.

“I was born in York and grew up there,” says actor Judi Dench, “so I have a great fondness for this remarkable city with its winding, cobbled streets and beautiful architecture.”

“The city has evolved over the years, with…a wealth of interesting shops and a vibrant cafe and evening culture,” she continues.

In the 18th century, York was seen by the monied class as an attractive alternative to London, and today many Georgian townhouses and buildings can be seen in the town because of this. At Fairfax House, for example, you can see what’s called the most distinguished 18th century townhouse in Britain.

Likely the first thing to grab your attention in York is the Minster, renowned around the world as the largest medieval gothic cathedral in northern Europe. Taking 250 years to build, it dominates the city, with its central tower rising 200 feet skyward. “…That first glimpse of the magnificent Minster towering above the city will never cease to inspire and move me,” states Dench.

The cathedral, 500 feet in length and 100 feet wide, has the largest concentration of medieval stained glass in Britain. While there, you can also visit the undercroft, treasury and crypts. The church’s collections, open to the public, are a rich time capsule of the Minster’s history. The collection consists of silver, textiles, furnishings, monuments, stone and glass objects.

(left) Roman ruins underneath York’s business district

WALK THE WALLS
“Walking the walls” is a favorite thing for visitors to do. Since Roman times, these walls have helped defend the city, and now add interest as an attraction. Four main gatehouses, or bars—Monk, Bootham, Micklegate and Walmgate—were once used to extract tolls and act as defensive towers. There are a little more than two miles of walls around the city.

A odd thing about York are the snickelways and ginnels, or passages, some quite narrow and obscure. These short cuts conveniently connect sections of the town, and can save a lot of walking. After a day in York, I started using the snickelways like I was a resident.

The main shopping area is traffic-free, meaning the erratic streets are quiet and pleasant to stroll around, day and night. The medieval streets and buildings are beautifully preserved, especially 2,000-year-old Stonegate and Petergate streets, York’s main shopping arteries. These two streets were used by the Romans, leading to a massive Roman headquarters structure which is now occupied by the Minster.

SHAMBLES STREET
Visitors will enjoy reading the names of streets as they wind through the city. Mad Alice Lane, Grape Lane, Swinegate and Coffee Yard all can be found here, as can Shambles, a former street for butchers: you can still see the wide windowsills used by butchers to display their goods, and in some cases the meat hooks remain above the shop windows, as well.

If you like chocolate—and who doesn’t—York might surprise you. It’s been making the delicious treat now for 150 years, and was named Britain’s Home of Chocolate in 2012. It even has a Chocolate Trail that will take you into York’s Chocolate Story shop and museum, where you can mold and decorate your own chocolate bar, York’s Cocoa House where you can enjoy a cup of hot chocolate and Monk Bar Chocolatiers who hand make every blissful piece. Also, the York Kit Kat factory, one of the largest in the world, turns out six million chocolate bars every day.

The Treasurer’s House, which claims the most haunted cellar in York, is worth a visit to hear about royal visits, servant life and see four centuries of interiors and antiques. When the garden is open, you can also enjoy home-cooked meals here as well.

CLIFFORD’S TOWER
While most of York was the result of Roman and Viking construction, the original mound of Clifford’s Tower, with a timber structure at the top, was constructed by the Norman William the Conqueror in 1068 as a statement of his power over the region. The tower is 50 feet tall and 200 feet in diameter with four overlapping circles, resembling a four-leafed clover. The design pattern was unique in England and after being decimated by fire, wind and even water (the castle sunk into the moat causing the walls to crack in the 1350s) the castle’s jailer began demolishing the tower and selling the stone himself.

Clifford’s Tower

For those with a technical interest, the National Railway Museum near the railway station is a must, and it’s free. Here is the largest railway museum in the world, boasting a host of record-breakers and history makers, attracting 800,000 visitors annually.

National Railway Museum

It is home to a wide range of railway icons and literally millions of artifacts, from the opulent Royal trains to the record-breaking Mallard. Many of the museum’s collection of more than 300 locomotives and pieces of rolling stock are displayed in the Great Hall. Some of the featured pieces include the Flying Scotsman, famous for being the first steam engine to travel at 100 mph, and the collection of royal trains, including the royal carriages used by Queen Victoria to those used today by Queen Elizabeth II.

Permanent displays in the museum include “Palaces on Wheels.” Based in the Station Hall, this exhibition features royal saloons dating to the Victorian era, giving visitors a glimpse into the sumptuous bedrooms, dining rooms and day saloons that were palaces on wheels.

At York’s Art galley, you can view more than 600 years of British and European art, from 14th century Italian panels to 17th century Dutch masterpieces to Victorian narrative paintings.

Also, the Yorkshire Museum houses some of the finest collections of archaeological and geological treasures in Europe, from prehistoric to medieval times. You can also walk on a Roman mosaic floor or kneel at St. William’s medieval shrine while here. This museum features new, interactive galleries and audio-visual shows.

Yorkshire Museum objects

As the locals like to say, York has many “tucked-away” attractions, including museums, bars and restaurants, interesting shops, peculiar old signs, strange stone figures, gateways and medieval battlements.

York is a fun, history-filled city, with numerous attractions that will interest nearly every age group.

WHERE TO STAY IN YORK
Grays Court in York near the Minster, is probably the oldest continuously occupied house in Britain, and as such, is a special place to stay, if you get the chance. It is built on the site of a Roman legionary fortress.

The staff is small and will likely remember your name after you’ve registered for the night. Grays Court is a family-owned and run country house with seven bedrooms, all filled with antique and contemporary furniture, and you’ll find the atmosphere around Grays Court quiet and friendly. A protected lawn and garden face the rear of the house, and the common areas invite you to wander throughout the house and get to know it.

Grays Court was once owned by the Duke of Somerset, Queen Jane Seymour’s brother, and was visited by King James 1st, James 2nd and the Duke of Cumberland. Sir Thomas Fairfax, Archbishop Robert Holgate and Archbishop Thomas Young have also lived here.

At one time the house was the original Treasurer’s House, commissioned by the first Norman Archbishop of York Minster, Thomas of Bayeux (1070-1100).

James I dined once at Grays Court with Edmond, Lord Sheffield, the Lord President of the North, and knighted eight nobleman in the house’s Long Gallery one evening.

Guests will find breakfast is served in a large open room with good views of the garden, and the wait staff is pleasant and accommodating. In the evening you can curl up on one of the large comfy sofas with a book and a glass of wine in the Long Gallery, or try the quiet Library to relax in.

Located on Chapter House Street, York. www.grayscourtyork.com.

For more information about the city of York, go to www.visityork.org.

Turkey’s Wild and Rugged Black Sea Coast

Turkey’s Wild and Rugged Black Sea Coast

Photos courtesy the Turkish Tourist and Culture Office of New York

Encompassing much of the country’s northern boundary and isolated by the rugged Kackar mountains, the narrow coastal Black Sea region of Turkey is well off the beaten path of many international travelers but treasured by those who discover its unique charms.

In addition to fascinating reminders of Turkey’s extraordinary history, the region is renowned for its magnificent coastline, scenic seaside and hilltop towns, World Heritage sites, lakes, national parks and some of the wildest natural landscapes in the country that draw intrepid trekkers, climbers and mountaineers from all over.
 
It should not be surprising that the Black Sea’s history was shaped by the nations that ruled the seas. Ancient Greece, the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire, Genoese, the Venetians and, until the early 20th century and afterwards Ottoman Empire, all put their cultural imprint on the region. They left behind castles overlooking the sea, churches, monasteries and mosques and distinctive architecture – much still intact or lovingly restored.

Today, visiting Turkey’s Black Sea by cruise ship (a number of lines based in North America offer itineraries that include one or two Turkish Black Sea ports) is one option, but for a more in-depth experience, travelers are advised to fly to Samsun or Trabzon, two of the larger towns, from Istanbul or Ankara, and rent a car or four-wheel drive vehicle. Comfortable and friendly accommodations are plentiful except in some of the more remote mountain villages. 
 
Though the coastal areas are blessed with moderate temperatures year-round, weather in the mountainous interior can be colder, therefore spring time is the most popular season for exploring the mountains.
 
Traveling from west to east through the Black Sea region, you might begin in Bolu. From coastal beaches to its famous multi-colored forests of oak, alder, pine, hazelnut and many more varieties of trees, visitors can virtually travel through all four seasons of the year within the course of a short drive. Yedigoller or Seven Lakes National Park is the centerpiece, but explorers will also discover hot springs, hiking and walking opportunities and, in winter, one of Turkey’s best ski centers.
 
As early as the 6th century BC, the coastal town of Amasra went by the name of Sesamus, and today offers a number of historic attractions, including 14th century Genoese forts, a Roman bridge, Byzantine city walls and historic mosques. Nearby, along the sea, the fishing villages of Cide and Abana are popular excursions, particularly known for their seaside restaurants.

Just inland from Amasra is one of the region’s best known attractions: Safranbolu. Its beautifully preserved and restored buildings from the Ottoman Empire, including konaks, or mansions distinctively made of timber and stone, have earned the town a World Heritage Site designation. Other reasons to visit include the Koprulu Mehmet Pasa Mosque and the Kazdagi Mosque, Turkish baths, Shoemakers Street (the town once supplied the Turkish army with shoes) and the scenic Market Street.
 
Also inland is the town of Kastamonu, with its 12th century castle, ethnographic and archaeology museums, and famous handicrafts, including fabrics, tablecloths, woolens and fruit jams. The expansive pastures in the vicinity offer some of the best trail riding in Turkey, and nearby Ilgaz Mountain National Park is noted for its deer, foxes and bear as well as culinary traditions that include whole lamb cooked slowly in clay ovens.
 
Back on the Black Sea coast, the town of Samsun is where Mustafa Kemal Ataturk drew plans for what became the modern Turkish Republic; the hotel where he stayed became the Gazi Museum. Samsun also offers an Archaeological and Ethnologic Museum, with an impressive collection of antiquities, and not far away, at Bafra, are excavations dating back to the Hittite Iron Age civilization. The thermal springs of Havza, approximately 50 miles away, are another popular day trip.
 
Continuing eastward, Trabzon is the largest city in the region and a cruise port dating back to 7,000 B.C. It remains a major trading port, evolving from an early Greek colony to an important cultural center on the busy Black Sea. Under the Venetians, the town became an important feature of the famous Silk Route before the rule of Ottomans in 1461. Today visitors will find historic churches and mosques as well as other landmarks, including a villa belonging to Ataturk on the town’s periphery. Built by Maneul I in the 13th century, Ayasofia Church sits on top of a hill in the center of the city; the origins of the Church of Saint Eugenios, now the Yeni Cuma Mosque, are lost in time.
 
Just inland from Trabzon is the Sumela Monastery, a true treasure of the Black Sea region. Begun in the 4th century by the Greek monks, Barnabas and Sophronius, and built high into the cliffs of Mt. Mela, the monastery has been restored and rebuilt over the centuries.
 
Not far away, the alpine region of Zigana in the Kalkanli Mountains is renowned for its natural beauty and popular for day trips. The 3,200-feet high alpine lake at Uzungol is popular among campers, hikers and fishermen, who prize the lake’s trout. Even more rugged is the Yusufeli designated conservation area inland from the Georgian border. This remote area of lakes and historic Georgian and Armenian churches offers white water rafting as well as ecotours on the famous Coruh River.
 
Offering more cultural comforts is the nearby town of Artvin, which is famous throughout Turkey for its many festivals celebrating regional cultures and featuring music, food, costumes, dancing and other traditional celebrations. The most popular is the Bull Fighting Festival. Visitors will also find other picturesque rural villages in the area as well as the Karagol-Sahara National Park, which is noted for its forests and lakes.
 
Visitors to the region will also discover unique culinary traditions such as Black Sea cuisine, including the roots of the world-famous Turkish tea. Strongly influenced by geography and climate, mountains and sea, food featured in this region includes the black anchovy, or “hamsi,” corn served in endlessly interesting ways, pickled green beans, an abundance of other vegetables and Akcabat Kofte (meatballs). Sweet helva, made with corn, butter and local honey, is another local favorite, as are a great variety of Black Sea and river fish (including farm-raised trout), considered by many to be the tastiest in the world.
 
The Turkish tea industry is based in the town of Rize, where a moist, moderate climate provides perfect growing conditions. While green tea is exported all over the world, travelers should be prepared to enjoy the local favorite, the strong, smoky black variety that, traditionally served with sugar, is as much a social event as it is a beverage. But tea is not the only appeal of Rize and its surroundings. Not far away are the dramatic Kackar Mountains, with their waterfalls, highlands and peaks – magnets for hikers and climbers. Glacial lakes are adorned with yellow rhododendrons, found nowhere else in Turkey at these altitudes, and Mt. Kackar itself, one of the world’s ecological treasures, is home to bears, wolves, lynxes and mountain goats.
 
For more information on Turkey and its Black Sea region, contact the Turkish Culture and Tourist Offices in New York at (212) 687-2194; Washington, D.C. at (202) 612-6800; and Los Angeles at (323) 937-8066. Information is also available at www.tourismturkey.org.