EuropeanTraveler

Leipzig on a Platter

This city is a multi-course meal for visitors

By Don Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger and Leipzig Tourism Office

If you were to spoon out Leipzig and put it on a plate, you’d discover a salad, a main meat course, vegetable course, a sorbet interlude and a delicious dessert.

I’d designate the salad course as the city’s unusual green belt at the Auenwald; the meat course is the art, architecture and music; the vegetable course Martin Luther and the Peaceful Revolution; the sorbet interlude is this town’s love of coffee; and the dessert is the city’s zest for living and its nightlife.

The city of Leipzig in central Germany, population 500,000, has a colorful history stretching back more than 800 years, and many events have shaped this former East German city. The city’s people and several major historical events have fashioned this town, and made it what it is.

SORBS FIRST SETTLED HERE

Sorbs first settled here in the 7th century, establishing a trading post known as Lipzk or “place near the lime trees.” After Leipzig was granted a town charter and market privileges around 1165, it quickly developed into an important center of commerce.

Maximilian I decided to award Leipzig imperial trade fair privileges in 1497, which helped turn the city into one of Europe’s leading trade fair centers, and it remains so today. Following the world’s first samples fair held in Leipzig in 1895, the city remained one of the global trading hubs until World War II put a hold on that.

It’s hard to believe, but Leipzig has a floodplain forest that runs straight through its center, one of the largest of its kind in Europe. Consisting of eight square miles of trees, every year more trees are planted, and the green space is enlarged. A variety of protected plants and animals are found here, including a rare butterfly species.

This “salad area” or greenbelt is easy to spot on a roadmap, with a large green area running north to south through the city. Four streams also flow through the city. Another part of the city that has been “greened up” is the Leipzig Zoo, where tropical Gondowanaland just opened. This lush section of the zoo, larger than two football fields, allows visitors to come into close contact with the tropical rain forests of Africa, Asia and South America. It features 40 exotic animal species and approximately 500 different plant and animal species, and more than 17,000 plants started their journey in nursery gardens in Thailand, Malaysia and Florida to create this tropical environment.

The Alte Börse, built in 1678-87 by Christian Richter, was originally used as a trading floor for merchants.

MAIN COURSE: ART-ARCHITECTURE AND MUSIC
As Leipzigers are fond of saying, for the young and creative Leipzig is no longer an insider’s tip. Word has spread that the city’s working and living conditions are just right, and three universities with an artistic or cultural profile, as well as Leipzig University, constantly feed the pool of ideas. Leipzig is known for its vibrant arts, music and festival scene; this place not only appeals to artists and actors, but is also becoming a trendy destination for leisure travelers.

Leipzig’s dynamic art scene enjoys an excellent reputation worldwide. Interestingly, a former cotton mill, Spinnerei, in the trendy Plagwitz district, is home to a number of galleries and studios. Formerly the largest cotton mill in continental Europe, Spinnerei now has the highest density of galleries in Germany. In this old factory complex are 80 artists, 14 galleries and exhibition spaces which house creative professionals like architects, designers, craftspeople, retailers and printers.

Artist and professor Neo Rauch of the New Leipzig School, whose paintings combine his personal history with the politics of industrial alienation, reflects on the influence of social realism. Hollywood star Brad Pitt recently purchased one of his works.

The GRASSI Museum of Applied Art, with its world class collection, opened as Germany’s second museum of applied arts in 1874. It is considered one of Europe’s leading museums of arts and crafts. The high point of the year within the GRASSI museum’s special exhibition is a trade fair for applied art and design, an international forum of contemporary applied art and experimental design.

Then there’s another part of the Grassimesse, the Designers’ Open, which is a well-established independent design festival. An extensive program including lectures, workshops, movies and fashion shows complete the fair.

In 1996 the Leipzig Fair’s new exhibition complex opened, featuring trailblazing architecture, spacious avenues and the stunning Glass Hall at its core.

THE CITY OF MUSIC

If you go to Leipzig, a visit to St. Thomas’s Church is a must, since it is the home of the world-famous St. Thomas Boys Choir and where Johann Sebastian Bach was employed for 27 years as organist and choirmaster.

His grave can be seen in the chancel. Motets are performed every Friday and Saturday by the choir, and there are concerts in front of the statue of Bach outside in July and August. The Bach Museum is located opposite the church.

Another regular musical highlight is the Sunday recitals at Mendelssohn House. Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy used to live in the building, which now contains the only museum dedicated to the composer.

There are two additional important centers of music in Leipzig: the Leipzig Opera House and the Gewandhaus Concert Hall.

The Gewandhaus Orchestra, dating back more than 250 years, regularly performs in both venues. The Opera House is the third oldest civilian music theater stage in Europe. And Schumann House is dedicated to the memory of Robert Schumann, one of the greatest composers of the 19th century Romantic era.

Leipzig also hosts several music festivals, large and small, including the International Bach Festival, the A Capella Festival, the Leipzig Jazz Festival and the Mendelssohn Festival.

MARTIN LUTHER AND THE PEACEFUL REVOLUTION
Our vegetable course includes reformer Martin Luther, who was known to come to Leipzig to face the Catholic Church hierarchy to explain his ideas about Christianity and indulgences. Martin Luther, who lived in nearby Wittenberg, stayed in Leipzig on no less than 17 occasions. His most important visit was for his participation in the Leipzig Disputation, or series of debates, held in Pleissenburg Castle in the summer of 1519.

After Duke George died, the Reformation was introduced in Leipzig in 1539. On August 12, 1545 Luther inaugurated the former Dominican monastery church of St. Paul’s as a protestant university church.

Leipzig was particularly significant in the rise of the Reformation movement, because Luther’s writings and numerous evangelical hymn books were distributed in large numbers from this city of printing shops and publishing houses. In Melchior Lotter’s printing shop alone, between 1517 and 1520, more than 40 works written by the great reformer were published.

In the Grafisches Viertel or Graphics Quarter of the city, the publishing industry flourishes. In 1912, 300 printers and nearly 1,000 publishing houses and specialized book shops, as well as 173 bookbinders, operated in Leipzig.

Leipzig is also known for helping overcome the GDR government. St. Nicholas Church—the oldest and biggest church in Leipzig—rose to fame in 1989 as the cradle of the Peaceful Revolution. Services for peace were and still are held there every Monday, and the following demonstrations at the end of the 1980s toppled the East German government, paving the way for German reunification. In the church, note the interior columns: they are designed to resemble palms.

A few other important sights to see in the city include:

The Monument to the Battle of the Nations—the tallest monument in Germany—was erected to commemorate those who fell during the Battle of the Nations (also known as the Battle of Leipzig) fought against Napoleon’s forces in October 1813.
In the Battle of the Nations, Austrians, Prussians, Russians and Swedes fought —500,000 soldiers in all— the biggest battle ever in world history, marking the decisive turning point in the war of liberation from Napoleonic rule.

(left to right) Battle of the Nations Monument; Porsche Leipzig Headquarters

The Mädler Passage, for centuries the city’s most exclusive arcade (one of 30 arcades in the city), is home to the famous Auerbachs Keller. Serving wine since 1525, this tavern/restaurant was immortalized in Faust by Johann Wolfgang Goethe, the father of German literature.

YOUR SORBET IS SERVED
The café-cum-restaurant Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum is one of Europe’s oldest coffee houses (dating from 1694) and it used to number composer Robert Schumann among its regulars. Today the coffee museum on the third floor of the building contains 500 exhibition items on the history of coffee, the Saxons’ “national drink.”

The Old City Hall, one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Germany, can be admired on the Market Square; it houses the Museum of City History. Inside is Katharina von Bora’s (Martin Luther’s wife) wedding ring and a pulpit in which Luther preached.

Town Hall Museum where a number of Martin Luther artifacts are exhibited.

NIGHTLIFE ABOUNDS
If you happen to be a night person, there is plenty to do in the evening, with all the city’s theaters, concert halls, variety shows and casinos. There are several dining and nightlife districts as well, such as Drallewatsch, Schauspielviertel, Südmeile, Münzgasse, Gohlis and Plagwitz. And when you arrive in one of the many clubs or bars, you’ll learn that often the term “closing time” is not in the vocabulary. There are 1,400 pubs and restaurants in this city, so dessert is not a problem.

And there you have it: a complete Leipzig meal with all the courses. Emperor Maximilan I knew something in 1497 when he granted the town imperial trade fair rights. He knew that one day Leipzig would be a multi-course city, and he was correct.

Auerbachs Keller Restaurant, located below the Mädlerpassage, is the best known and second oldest restaurant in Leipzig, described in Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s play Faust I, as the first place Mephistopheles takes Faust on their travels. The restaurant owes much of its fame to Goethe, who frequented Auerbach’s Cellar as a student and called it his favorite wine bar.

For more information, go to www.leipzig.de, www.leipzig.travel, or www.germany.travel

Hotel Fuerstenhof
An upscale Leipzig tradition

Not far from the main train station in Leipzig is the Hotel Fuerstenhof, a five-star gem with marble, gold-rimmed archways, high ceilings and soaring windows.

At one time a classic patrician’s palace, the 92-room air-conditioned hotel with 12 suites, features myrtle wood furniture, marble bathrooms and a friendly, dedicated staff. The staff is geared to making your stay a pleasant one, knowing your name when you come to the registration desk for questions, and providing service with a smile. I had more than a few special requests from the staff which were quickly and pleasantly taken care of.

There’s an indoor 7,000-square-foot pool area, equipped with saunas, fitness room, solarium, cosmetic and massage stations. Also, the hotel features a nice piano bar area with comfortable, plush seats, and tables, fine dining in the 18th-century style neo-classical Villers restaurant (with a choice of more than 200 wines), a complete breakfast area and a wine bar round out some of the amenities of this hotel.

The hotel was first mentioned in 1770 when Karl Eberhard Loehr, a banker, lived in the palatial home, built between 1770 and 1772. It was called the Loehr Haus. It opened as a hotel in 1889, and underwent a complete renovation and restoration in 1993. It is part of the Luxury Collection of Hotels, one of 62 worldwide luxury hotels.

For more information, go to www.hotelfuerstenhofleipzig.com/en

Ireland’s Friendly People and Pubs Beckon

And grand castles, happy sheep and catchy music aplenty

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

The Emerald Isle is inviting to first-time European visitors for several good reasons.

Because you’re not traveling to continental Europe, the flight time is from 1-1 ½ hours less from the United States. It’s 3,614 miles between Chicago and Dublin, or 3,187 miles between New York and Dublin. From Chicago to Dusseldorf on the mainland it’s 4,217 miles.
The time zone in Ireland is an hour closer to U.S. time zones.
You needn’t speak a foreign language.

These are a few reasons you may want to place Ireland at the top of your “must visit” list, but there are many other incentives, as well. As many as 40 million Americans claim to have Irish blood―that’s 10 times more than the population of Ireland itself.

How do most visitors get there? You could take a cruise ship across the Atlantic, but most people are in a hurry and fly, and that means American, U.S. Airways, Delta, Continental or Aer Lingus (which sometimes has some really low fares, especially in early spring).

DUBLIN’S ATTRACTIONS
Since you’re probably flying into Dublin, where most visitors begin their adventure, you’ll want to spend at least a day there. In fact, I’d recommend two or three days, because there is a lot to discover. Think of St. Stephen’s Green as a center point for your activities. This lush, quiet Victorian garden is located in the main part of the city, yet it is a refuge from the hustle and bustle, and you can always come back to it for solace and relaxation. With ponds, picnicking, wildlife and a playground for kids, it makes an ideal meeting point as well. In the summer, lunch time concerts are given here.

Fanning out from the Green are the National Museum of Archaeology and the National Museum of Natural History. At the first museum, you’ll be transported back to 7,000 B.C. You’ll see examples of Celtic and Medieval art such as the famous Ardagh Chalice, the Tar Brooch and the Derrynaflan Hoard, another old historic chalice. Ireland’s foremost treasure, the Ardagh Chalice, is considered the jewel in the crown of all exhibits there. The beautifully proportioned chalice is the finest example of eighth century metalwork ever to have been found. Standing six inches high, it is made of silver, bronze and gold; the design and decoration indicates technical proficiency of the highest order.

Heading down Nassau Street, you come to Trinity College, the oldest university in Ireland and situated on 40 acres in the heart of the city. Besides strolling the sidewalks around here where you’ll feel like a college student again, you’ll want to see the Book of Kells, a 9th century Gospel manuscript created by Celtic monks. Its lavishly decorated pages in Latin of the four Gospels is a masterpiece of calligraphy and represents the ultimate in Insular illumination. It is definitely worth the trip to see, as is the Long Room of books (215 feet long), which contains more than 200,000 of Trinity’s most ancient volumes. Interestingly, in 1860 the roof of the building was raised higher to accommodate more books. The Long Room is an impressive site, with 14 marble busts commissioned by sculptor Peter Scheemakers lining both sides of the gallery.

TEMPLE BAR AWAITS YOU
On the other side of Trinity and bordered by the River Liffey, is the Temple Bar section of the city, where nightlife is abundant. Bar after bar is crowded into the narrow cobblestone streets here, and more than 50 contemporary art and cultural galleries and studios in this section of the city make up a part of what is called “Dublin’s Cultural Quarter.” On weekends, open markets are held in Meeting House Square nearby as well.

On Grafton Street, the main shopping area, you’ll find Molly Malone’s statue where you can have your picture taken to send back to friends and relatives. Molly was a legendary figure, celebrated in the song Cockles and Mussels, a Dublin anthem. Molly Malone is one of the more famous people from Dublin’s past, but whether she really existed is not known.

She’s certainly one of the strangest icons ever officially commemorated by a city government. The statue, erected in 1987, depicts a woman in 17th century dress that shows abundant cleavage. Molly allegedly sold fish by day and sold her body by night. Though she lived in the 1600’s, the song Cockles and Mussels about her does not appear in any historic record before the 1880’s. The familiar lyric goes:

In Dublin’s fair city
where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheeled her wheelbarrow
Through streets broad and narrow
Crying, “Cockles and mussels, alive alive oh!”

CITY BREWS
Ha’Penny Bridge is Dublin’s oldest pedestrian bridge. Erected in 1816, a toll of half a penny was levied on all users of the bridge until 1919. You’ll also want to see the Guinness Storehouse when visiting and take a tour, and then enjoy a fresh glass of Guinness in the Gravity Bar afterward. Cost is €13.50. The Storehouse is located in a section of town called the Liberties, which lay outside the city walls in earlier times.

In the Smithfield Village area, across the Liffey, is the Old 1780 Jameson Distillery, once considered one of the largest and finest distilleries in the world. You will discover the time-honored secret of how three simple ingredients―water, barley and yeast―combine to make whiskey. And you can end your tour with whiskey tasting in the Jameson Bar. The distillery tour is open seven days a week, and if you’re really into it, you can request a tutored whiskey tasting.

FAMOUS DUBLIN WRITERS
The Dublin Writer’s Museum, which opened in 1991 and is located in an 18th century mansion, offers visitors a fascinating view of famous Irish writers such as Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Jonathan Swift and George Bernard Shaw. It’s a small but interesting museum that tells the background of these famous people.James Joyce, the author of Ulysses, has his own museum in Joyce Tower at No. 35 North Great George’s Street. The house was built in 1784 for Valentine Brown, the Earl of Kenmare, and is decorated with plasterwork by Michael Stapleton. Restored in the 1980s, the house opened as the James Joyce Center in 1996, and is run by members of Joyce’s sister’s family.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral on Patrick Street is an important Dublin landmark, with writer and satirist Jonathan Swift its Dean between 1713-1747. In 1742, the first performance of Handel’s Messiah was performed here by the combined choirs of St. Patrick’s and Christ Church, just a block away. (Christ Church is the oldest building in Dublin, dating from c. 1030. Inside are rare artifacts, examples of early gold and silverware, and historic manuscripts.)

CAD E’ AN SCE’AL? (WHAT’S GOING ON?)
Many other sights are waiting for the European traveler as well in this city of about 1.5 million. You’ll find the natives very friendly and accommodating. Getting around Old Town Dublin is easy: walking is your best bet.

Maps are available that detail the highlights of the city; the Dublin tourism office is located just past Grafton Street on Suffolk Street where you can pick up free information leaflets and get personal advice on things to do, places to visit and to eat. The tourist office staff speaks seven languages, including English, French, German, Irish, Italian, Polish and Spanish. There are also sightseeing tour buses that will take you around the city. For more information, go to visitdublin.com.
Also, the Dublin tram system, called LUAS, is a state-of-the-art light rail system operating on a Green and a Red line. If you stay close to the Old Town, however, the tram won’t be needed. The Green Line starts at St. Stephen’s Green, and a downtown Red Line stop is at Abbey Street.

The Dublin Pass is a cost-saving card will allows you access to more than 30 of Dublin’s top attractions and more. Go to dublinpass.ie for information.

For those who want a five-star hotel experience, the Shelbourne, a Renaissance hotel, is conveniently located on St. Stephen’s Green, and lives up to its reputation. It’s located just a few steps from Dublin’s sights and shops. Founded in 1824, the Irish constitution was drafted here; the hotel retains its original charm and is an oasis in the midst of the city’s clamor. The hotel features a total of 265 rooms, including seven for the physically challenged.

SOUTH COAST ATTRACTIONS
There are many areas of Ireland that appeal to visitors. But with Dublin as a starting point, let’s drop down the southeast coast to do more exploring.

If you’re driving, you’ll want to use N11, a major highway that runs along the coast to Wexford. Roads in Ireland are fairly narrow, so be aware of this: it can be a daunting experience. This is where a trained bus driver on a group tour comes in handy.

Glendalough, which translates into “the valley of the two lakes,” is about 90 minutes south of Dublin, and is a totally captivating spot. It contains ruins from a 6th century monastery, some of which remains today.

The short history of Glenalough is thus: St. Kevin was a descendent of one of the ruling families of Leinster. As a young boy he went to live at Glendalough, and founded a monastery there which continued to expand for 600 years, but was destroyed in 1398. In its prime, the land included churches, monastic cells and workshops, guesthouses, a health center, farm buildings and homes. Most of the buildings that survive date from the 10th through 12th centuries. The most famous is the pencil thin round tower which is 112 feet high with a base 52 feet in circumference. A cathedral, stone churches and decorated crosses also survive. Take your camera along, as Glenalough is excellent for snapping unique pictures, especially if it’s a bit foggy. A modern visitor’s center features an informative movie about the ruins and its history, and wandering paths in the surrounding valley offer more exploration.

POWERSCOURT HOUSE AND GARDENS
Situated in the picturesque mountains of Wicklow, Powerscourt is a large mansion once owned by powerful families such as the O’Tooles and the FitzGeralds, Earls of Kildare. In 1603, Powerscourt Castle and the surrounding lands were granted to Richard Wingfield, who was Marshal of Ireland (a royal officeholder). His descendants remained there for more than 350 years.

Later the castle was remodeled, creating a magnificent mansion around the shell of the former castle. Large formal gardens, a fish pond, cascading waterfalls, grottoes and terraces all form a striking approach to the mansion. The story is told that Daniel Robertson, a garden architect and a leading proponent of Italianate garden design, suffered from gout and directed his operations from a wheelbarrow, fortified by a bottle of good sherry. When the sherry was depleted, Robertson’s work ceased for the day!

Near the imposing castle is the five-star Ritz-Carlton, overlooking the wooded slopes of Sugar Loaf Mountain. Blending into the countryside, this 200-room, seven-story hotel is ritzy, with a warm Georgian-inspired interior. Afternoon tea, evening cocktails in the Sugar Loaf Lounge, the Gordon Ramsey signature restaurant and a complete Irish pub combine to make a stay here memorable. The hotel’s spa is also available to guests, which is on two floors and boasts a 65-foot long Swarovski crystal-lit swimming pool. There’s also a 36-hole championship golf course as part of the hotel complex.

DUNBRODY SHIP PROJECT
In 2011 the JFK Trust launched its replica of a 19th century three-masted sailing ship, the Dunbrody, that brought immigrants to America. This ship is on display in New Ross harbor; an audio-visual experience, guided tours and a convincing performance of costumed actors brings to life the long, difficult journeys made in the 19th century on this ship. A new visitor’s museum will be ready this year as well.

For a night’s rest in this area, check out the Dunbrody Country Hotel and Spa in Arthurstown. It’s a 1830s Georgian manor amid 300 acres of tranquil parklands, not far from Waterford. This four-star hotel, owned by hospitable Catherine and Kevin Dundon, offers 22 rooms. Master chef Kevin Dundon also has a cooking school here and designs one- and two-day cooking courses―there’s even a week-long master class. You’ll feel rejuvenated after a few days in this setting. www.dunbrodyhouse.com

Dunbrody Cookery School’s Edward Hayden

If you want to get up close and personal to the water and the Irish shoreline, here’s your chance. Hook Head Lighthouse in New Ross has been a guiding light for ships for more than 800 years. There’s a visitor’s center offering guided tours of the 13th century tower, a gift shop, cafe, art classes and picnic areas.

Glass blowers and artisans at the Waterford Crystal factory

At Waterford, a stop at the Waterford Crystal factory is a must. Since 1783, the company that George and William Penrose founded has been making stunning glass pieces with a distinctive, silvery white brilliance, which Waterford Crystal’s artists enhance with deeply-cut ornamentation. It’s said that in all of Ireland, no hands have been more patient, more meticulous, or more blessed with the elusive powers of art, than the hands of Waterford Crystal’s craftsmen. Drinkware, serving accessories and decorative crystal from the Waterford factory is still the customary gift for royalty and heads of state. It’s not inexpensive, but a factory tour will show you the secret of why this glass has been so highly prized for all these years.

LISMORE CASTLE GARDENS
Heading to Lismore, you can visit the beautiful Lismore Castle gardens and gallery. In the Burlington family for more than 400 years, this fairytale castle, originated in 1185, has seen many changes since. Because the Burlington family stills resides there (Lord and Lady Burlington), only the gardens and gallery are open for touring. The gardens are set on seven acres and provide spectacular views of the castle and the surrounding countryside. You might even see Lord or Lady Burlington on the grounds!

When you’re looking for a place to land for the night, you might try this hotel located next to the sea. The Cliff House has been described as a five-star cascading luxury hotel sewn into Ireland’s coastline, overlooking the small village of Ardmore. Thrown in for good measure is the House Restaurant (one Michelin star), serving both Irish and international cuisine This 39-bedroom jewel is tops for either a holiday (as the Irish call it), or it’s perfect as a hideaway to recoup. www.thecliffhousehotel.com

At Kilkenny Castle in Kilkenny, you can take a guided tour of this 12th century structure, originally built for William Marshall, the Earl of Pembroke. With many additions and changes over the centuries, this dark gray castle comprises many architectural styles, seen in the various ornate rooms. You’ll see the Drawing Room, Withdrawing Room (reserved for ladies after dinner), the Picture Galley Wing with a hammer-beam roof structure, the Library with silk damask curtains and the elegant Dining Room, among other rooms. Surprisingly, the Marquess of Ormonde sold the sprawling castle to the people of Kilkenny for the sum of €50 in 1967.

Afterward, stroll over to Kyteler’s Inn in downtown Kilkenny, and have lunch or supper in this fun, quaint restaurant, established in 1324. Look for the story of the original owner, Dame Alice le Kyteler, on the first floor.

FLYING BACK TO DUBLIN
On the way out of Ireland, reserve a room on the last evening at the four-star Barberstown Castle, a short 30-minute drive from the Dublin airport. Situated on 20 acres of flower gardens, this Irish country house has flourished for eight centuries, opening as a hotel in 1971. Its Victorian and Elizabethan extensions have been melded with the original castle battlement of 1288. Since then, Barbertown Castle has had 37 owners, one of them Eric Clapton. The 59-room hotel is now owned by Kenneth Healy, who lives on the property and who purchased it from Clapton (the names of all 37 owners are painted on the exterior doors of the rooms―Clapton’s room is #61).

We’ve just covered Dublin and the south coast of Ireland. There’s more―much more―to see on the the Emerald Isle, but that will have to wait until another time.

CEAD MILE FAILTE (A HUNDRED THOUSAND WELCOMES)
Ireland is welcoming and a friendly place, with old-world charm and more castles than you’d believe possible. The Guinness isn’t too bad, either.

For more information, go to www.discoverireland.com.

Meet Art Wolfe

I’ve always been enthusiastic about the work I do.
Art Wolfe

ET: Of the many European countries, which country or countries do you like to photograph the most – and why?

AW: I’ve traveled to Europe a number of times over the years. In fact, my first overseas trip was to England, and 28 days later I wound up in Greece. It was very early on, and one could argue I wasn’t much of a photographer, although I thought I was at the time. Italy definitely has been one of my favorite places to go, not only for the antiquity but for the stunning scenery: the craggy Dolomites in the north, and the south’s rumbling volcanoes of Mt. Etna and Stromboli. These have yielded great opportunities and photographs over the years; I love Italy!

Equally strong for me has been France; photographing in the French Alps, in and around the Rhone River delta and up into Provence has resulted in some of my most delightful photos over the years. Iceland surely is not to be missed―its young landscape is different every time I visit.

There are huge gaps in my coverage of Europe; I dream of the day I can travel through Spain. My long-time photo assistant is from Romania, though I have yet to get to central and eastern Europe. All these places draw my attention, and it’s just a matter of time before I get there.

ET: If you were to recommend to someone to photograph the European landscape, where would you “send” them and why?

AW: Certainly it’s hard to beat the Alps, both French and Swiss. One of the striking things about the Alps is their verticality; they are very accessible initially but many of the peaks are among the most difficult peaks to climb on earth. One of my best locations has been Lac Blanc just above the ski town of Chamonix, France. I can’t overstate how stunningly beautiful Lac Blanc is as it reflects the extraordinary Chamonix Needles and Mont Blanc rising beyond.

I just love the Italian landscape, too. I love the whimsical ways the Italian farmers in Tuscany and Umbria have separated their fields by rows of cypress and pine. In addition, the rural landscapes of northern Scotland and the Isle of Skye are quite simply stunning; I have been there in the spring, when the forests around the icy, deep lochs are green and studded with bluebells. It is quite enchanting.

ET: Can you remember the first time you realized that maybe you were an “above average” photographer? How did your parents’ commercial artist business help you in your life’s work?

AW: My background initially was drawing and painting from early childhood all the way through graduating from the University of Washington, earning a degree in Fine Arts and Art Education. As far as realizing I was an above average photographer, it’s hard for me to just state that unequivocally; I would address it by saying I always realized I had an above average drive and focus. I’m rapidly approaching year 60 in my life, and the drive has not diminished. I’ve always been enthusiastic about the work that I do and sharing it with others.

Very early on I knew that whatever I wanted to do I could do it. My parents were commercial artists, and I watched my dad run his own small business. It was ingrained in me that I could do this as well. Children very often follow in the footsteps of their parents. Thankfully, my parents allowed me to pursue whatever I wanted. They had nothing but encouragement toward the arts, and in retrospect that was a blessing.

ET: You always seem to have so much fun and enthusiasm when you are photographing. Can you explain how this is?

AW: I think fun and enthusiasm is part and parcel to anyone’s occupation or passion. It’s rare in life for people to truly find their passion, especially when it’s their occupation. I feel blessed. I feel that I was destined to be a storyteller through the photographic medium, and I don’t take that lightly.

I sacrifice a lot being a photographer; I don’t have a family, I don’t have vacations, I don’t have a lot of things that people take for granted. But what I do have is a highly refined passion that gives me a deep sense of fulfillment. I can’t help but be enthusiastic and can’t help but having fun. I have a very impish sense of humor, a very free spirit about the work that I do and that just transfers to my photos. My enthusiasm is infectious; I am able to photograph people without trepidation. I have a very light spirit when I’m working around wild animals, I don’t stress about them, and they pick up on that energy so it’s a very positive experience. I wholly believe it enables me to get close to my subjects.

ET: Bad weather conditions typically thwart photography efforts. What do you think?

AW: My belief is bad weather often makes a shot. Whether it’s high winds, blowing snow or soaking rain, I get out there as long as I can protect myself and my camera. Weather makes for painterly effects: wind can be transferred into long impressionistic exposures where that sense of contrast between blurred motion and sharp focus subjects is often the difference between a mediocre photo and a great photo. So I look at bad weather conditions as the time to bundle up and get out the door!

ET: What is your advice for someone wanting to become a better than average photographer? What does it take to do this?

AW: No restraints! Just do it! There is an amazing amount of education being offered free through the internet. And some of the world’s best photographers offer amazing trips and workshops. I’d take advantage of that. Just jump in and immerse yourself into the world of photography and you will learn quickly.

ET: How do you determine where to go when you’re going to film your next show and how long does it take to arrange each edition of your show?

AW: My location choices for “Art Wolfe’s Travels to the Edge” were based on 30 years of knowledge about the world. After months of research and arrangements, each episode took an average of two weeks to film. The post production process added another couple months. It is a long process to get from idea to actual broadcast.

ET: Where did the name “Travels to the Edge” come from? (It’s a great line!)

AW: “Travels to the Edge” is based on my book Edge of the Earth, Corner of the Sky. It seemed like I traveled to the edges of the earth to photograph for that book. For the show name, my staff and I threw out words and started mixing and matching and ultimately settled upon “Travels to the Edge.” I thank you for the compliment and I agree, it’s a great line!

Traditional Holland

By Don Heimburger

Over 60% of world trade in flowers and plants takes place via Dutch auctions.

The Netherlands may be a small country, but it’s packed with world famous icons. Discover bulb fields, windmills, cheese markets, wooden shoes, the canals of Amsterdam, masterpieces of the Old Masters, Delft Blue earthenware, innovative water management and millions of bicycles. Find out more about these and other typical Dutch highlights. www.holland.com

Meet Rick Steves

European Traveler chats with travel guru Rick Steves

Why did you choose to start your company, Europe Through the Back Door, rather than do something else, or even work for a travel company?

I was inspired by being a customer of other teachers/tour guides to teach and guide in a way I thought was better. Taking a travel class poorly taught about taking the bus from Istanbul to Nepal showed me the frustration and lost opportunity of a traveler who had the experience but was too lazy and disorganized to share it effectively with his student travelers…So I became a travel teacher. Escorting big bus tours in the 1970s showed me the built-in conflicts of interest between guides and tour members as well as the potential value of a thoughtful and well-organized tour company…So I decided to develop my own formula for a tour company. From the start, I’ve enjoyed making my own rules and having fun with my business.

What one or two reasons do you point to as reasons you’ve been successful?

We have been true to our mission statement since before we had one…to inspire and teach American travelers to enjoy Europe economically, efficiently, and thoughtfully. Nothing I do in my business supports itself. Everything overlaps and is therefore a better value than normal — as well as profitable.

Do you have a personal and/or business philosophy you’d like to share?

Life if too short to drink cheap wine or work with people you don’t respect and enjoy.

Was there ever a time for whatever reason you thought about selling the business or doing something else? If so, what compelled you not to?

A long time ago at that difficult stage when I was transitioning from a single entrepreneurial teacher to someone with a paid staff it was challenging and I considered becoming a high school teacher. Then I realized I am a teacher…free as a bird with the best students anywhere…smart people who slept through their history and art classes before they knew they had a trip coming up. Now they’re Europe-bound and wish they knew who the Etruscans were. I haven’t looked back since.

I’d assume people underestimate how difficult it is to run a travel-related business — that it must be like being on vacation all the time. What is the biggest misperception about your work?

Nobody understands the reality from a footwork point of view of researching and writing good guidebooks.

How did you deal with the challenges of a growing company — I imagine at some point as the company has grown, you have had to relinquish some day-to-day control over some aspects. Was it difficult? How have you dealt with growing pains in the business?

I have learned to delegate. That was tough. Now I happily don’t know how to issue a Eurail pass. I honestly don’t know our store hours…that’s a good thing. I produce in my corner of the building. I am one of five on our “business team” which functions as what I think of as a “virtual ceo.”

What advice do you have for those who have to be on the road when they don’t necessarily want to be away from home and family?

Bring work or reading you enjoy to make the plane ride a blessing. Take a moment to homey up your hotel room (with your favorite munchies, photos of loved ones). Assuming you’re going someplace interesting, get out there and enjoy it. Be a temporary local. Sure you’ve got plenty of reasons to be homesick…but for now you live there. Immerse yourself in it all.

Where do you see yourself and your company in five, ten years?

Exactly where I am now only with much more teaching horsepower.

What are your company’s annual revenues? Can you give me a sense of how that has grown?

I think we’re pushing $30 million gross with 70 employees. While we’ve grown a lot, we are the same culture of travelers.

Any other advice for entrepreneurs or those thinking of starting their own business?

Don’t hire relatives.