Great news for U.S. travelers with Spanish islands on their “Places to Go” lists – this summer, United Airlines is launching direct flights from New York/Newark (EWR) to Palma de Mallorca (PMI) and Tenerife Sur (TFS).
Royal Palace of La Almudaina in Palma, Mallorca
These seasonal flight offerings (June through September) are your opportunity to visit the Balearic Islands or Canary Islands without first stopping on the Spanish mainland. This new expansion makes United Airlines the U.S. carrier serving the largest number of destinations in Spain.
Flights to/from the Balearic Islands:
• New York/Newark – Palma de Mallorca
Flight UA236 EWR 20:55 – PMI 11:00 three flights weekly, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays
• Palma de Mallorca – New York/Newark
Flight UA237 PMI 12:55 – EWR 16:10 three flights weekly, on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Mondays
Flights to/from the Canary Islands:
• New York/Newark – Tenerife South
Flight UA248 EWR 21:50 – TFS 09:55 three flights weekly, on Mondays, Thursdays, and Saturdays
• Tenerife South – New York/Newark
Flight UA249 TFS 12:00 – EWR 14:55 three flights weekly, on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Sundays
Stay tuned for fresh travel stories about Mallorca and Menorca – coming soon!
Costa Blanca … Costa Daurada … the mere words conjure up images of warmth, sand and sunshine, just the antidote to chilly North American winter weather. Now is the time to head to the Mediterranean coast of Spain, where the weather is already warm. Going in the spring or fall offers great weather along with fewer tourists and lower, shoulder-season prices.
Spain is hot, hot, hot right now — from cuisine to fashion. Let’s go, amigos!
MAGICAL MADRID
Most flights from the United States fly into Madrid, and then connect to coastal cities such as Valencia or Barcelona. (Fly Iberian Airlines to get yourself into the Spanish state of mind.) Allow a few days for a Madrid sojourn before heading to the coast. The capital city is beautiful, packed with museums, great restaurants and many things to see and do.
The Gran Hotel Canarias Madrid makes a great home base. It is right in the center of town, across from the recently expanded Prado Museum and next to the Thyssen Museum.
Dining is a great pastime in Madrid, and Plaza Mayor is a good place to start. The area around the plaza is loaded with restaurants, such as Casa Botin, famous for its Castilian specialties and its listing in the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest restaurant in the world (circa 1725). Plaza Santa Ana, a short walk from the hotel and many museums, is home to lively tapas bars and wine bars. Near the Royal Palace, try the Café de Oriente. At the Thyssen Museum, dine in the terrace garden of the museum restaurant. For a simple and fun meal, check out the Museo del Jamon (Ham Museum), a chain of deli-cafes where you can see hanging hams, have a glass of sherry and a plate of sliced ham.
Hotel El Montiboli is perched on the Costa Blanca on the Mediterranean coast.The central market of Alicante is in the heart of the city.
THE COSTA BLANCA
Tearing yourself away from Madrid, hop a plane or train and head to Alicante to begin your coastal voyage, then work your way northward along the coast to Barcelona, with as many stops along the way as your schedule will allow (or start in Barcelona and head south). Travel by rental car, plane or train, according to your preference and budget.
Alicante is on the Costa Blanca, or White Coast, and its beaches are spectacular. But there’s much more to do than lie on the sand and soak up the rays. Whether you take a guided city tour or wander on your own, don’t miss the imposing Santa Barbara Castle, which towers 500 feet above the city center, with panoramic views of the city below and the Mediterranean Sea. Early risers will enjoy the traditional covered market, the Mercado Centrale, bustling with vendors. Enjoy dinner at La Taberna del Gourmet or Nou Manolin.
A good base for exploring this area is the Hotel Hospes Amerigo, a beautifully renovated convent in the heart of Alicante. While the exterior is historic, the interior is ultra modern and comfortable.
Nearby towns include Elche and Villajoyosa, each worth a visit. In Elche, a majestic date palm grove with 600,000 trees, planted by the Phoenicians and later cultivated by the Moors, will take your breath away. Palm fronds from these trees are used for Palm Sunday celebrations throughout Spain. The grove itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take time to visit the Basilica of Santa Maria, the Huerto del Cura Botanic Gardens and the Archaeological Museum. Enjoy lunch (paella, anyone?) at Els Capellans Restaurant in the peaceful and beautiful surroundings of Hotel Huerto del Cura.
The picturesque fishing port of Villajoyosa is a major center of Spain’s chocolate production. A must stop is the Valor Chocolate Factory and the Chocolate Museum. You’ll want to stock up on Valor chocolate for gifts for the folks back home. For a scenic lunch stop, try the luxurious Hotel El Montiboli, perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. The dining room is wrapped in windows, with a view as divine as the food.
Elaborate chocolate sculpture at the Valor Chocolate Museum.The likeness of the Lady of Elche is found all over town, from floral representations to fountains to sculptures.
VIVACIOUS VALENCIA
Next stop: Valencia, one of the most exciting cities in Europe, with its cosmopolitan mixture of old and new, tradition and trendiness, sophistication and casualness. The Hotel Astoria Palace, in the heart of the Old Quarter, is a great place to call home in Valencia.
Begin your visit with a walking tour of the historic Old Quarter, with the Central Market, fascinating La Lonja Silk Exchange, unique Lace Market, Plaza Redonda and the beautiful St. Mary’s cathedral with its legendary Holy Chalice, believed to be the chalice used by Jesus Christ at the Last Supper.
For a complete change of pace, head to the ultra-modern City of Arts and Sciences, a museum where the building and grounds are as spectacular as what is inside. Other good choices include the Fine Arts Museum, Valencian Institute of Modern Art or the National Ceramics Museum.
Be sure to visit the bustling, revitalized port area, home of the 32nd America’s Cup competition in 2007, and future home of the 33rd America’s Cup in 2009. There will be a pre-regatta in July 2008.
If you like being next to the water, you might opt to stay at the new and beautiful Hotel Las Arenas, with its lush gardens and stunning pavilions overlooking the sea. Indulge in its luxurious spa, or dine in the elegant Restaurante Sorolla.
(left to right) The central market at Valencia is always bustling.; The National Ceramics Museum in Valencia has a remarkable exterior.; The ultra-modern City of Arts and Sciences is a must-see in Valencia.
For food to fuel your sightseeing, consider a stop for fideua, a paella made with noodles instead of rice, at Restaurante Submarino in the Oceanografico, or sample tapas at one of the many restaurants in the Old Quarter.
Be sure to try horchata, the artisanal beverage for which Valencia is known. A great place to get the real thing is in the suburb of Alboraya, where the chufa (tiger nut), the key ingredient in horchata, grows. The Horchateria Daniel serves a delicious horchata with the traditional accompaniment of freshly baked pastries.
For a charming outing and an authentic heartland paella, head out of town to the Albufhera, where you can take a boat ride through the shallow freshwater lagoon, a natural park known for many species of birds and fish, and visit a barraca, a traditional fisherman’s hut near the rice paddies and orange groves. La Matandeta is a rural farmhouse restaurant where the paella is cooked over firewood in a huge pan.
Paella is cooked in a huge pan over a wood fire at La Matandeta restaurant in the Albufhera area.Local women make lace in the time-honored fashion in the center of the round plaza that houses Valencia’s Lace Market.
FROM HISTORIC CASTLE TO MODERN SPA
For a historic stop on your route north, make a slight detour to the medieval town of Tortosa and spend the night in the charming Castillo de la Zuda Parador, a 10th-century castle. Be sure to get there in time to wander the streets of this picturesque village and explore the castle itself. For dinner, sample regional specialties in the parador’s restaurant.
(clockwise) The convent garden is an oasis of peace within the bustling city of Tarragona.; Exquisite Roman mosaics are preserved in museums in Tarragona.; The Le Meridien Ra Beach Hotel and Spa in El Vendrell must be seen and experienced to be believed.
After a long day at sea, fishermen still have work to do, mending their nets. These are at the port of Tarragona.
Heading on to the Costa Daurada (Golden Coast), stop in the town of El Vendrell and spend a night –- or two or three -– at the ultra-modern and ultra-luxe Le Meridien Ra Beach Hotel and Spa. Splurge for spa treatments, such as the chocolate massage. Enjoy the beach, or play in one of the pools. Be sure to dine at least once in the hotel’s La Vinya del Penedes restaurant.
ROMAN ECHOES IN TARRAGONA
The next stop on your northward route is Tarragona, an ancient Roman city with layer upon layer of ruins, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Be sure to take a guided tour of the old town so you can understand the many layers of history upon which Tarragona is built. Each spring the town celebrates its heritage with Tarraco Viva, a Roman festival and games.
Visit Tarragona’s port and see the fishing boats arrive in the late afternoon. Watch the fisherman as they auction their fish and mend their nets. For a traditional mariner’s menu, dine in the seaside Restaurante La Puda and sample Tarragona’s famous Romesco sauce. Or, savor authentic tapas at Restaurante La Nau, tucked away on Calle La Nau in the old town.
BEAUTIFUL BARCELONA
The final stop (or the first, if you travel in the opposite direction), is Barcelona, the jewel of Catalonia. It would take another entire article to do justice to the wonders of Barcelona and its environs. Check with the local tourist office for maps and current events, then head out to see the sites. The celebrated architectural marvels of Antoni Gaudi are a must, and you’ll see them in many places throughout the city. Be sure to climb the steep towers of the iconic Sagrada Familia, or temple of the Sacred Family, for an up close and personal look at this architectural wonder.
While wandering along La Rambla through the heart of the city, duck into La Boqueria market, the largest in all of Spain. After whetting your appetite in the market, you might want to sign up for a cooking class at the Hofmann Escuela de Hosteleria (Hofmann Hospitality School) to learn how to cook Catalan specialties.
The Hotel Catalonia Berna is a great location for the hub of your explorations, within walking distance of many sites and close to the subway for longer trips.
A side trip to the Black Madonna Shrine of Montserrat, perched impossibly upon the steep mountains outside of Barcelona, is a must.
For more information about Spain, contact the Tourist Office of Spain in New York (212-265-8822); Miami (305-358-1992); Chicago (312-642-1992) or Los Angeles (323-658-7188) or go to www.spain.info.
By Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb Photos courtesy Costa Del Sol Tourism
Sometimes it helps to follow your nose.
For days we’d heard rumors about ancient baths located just below Casares, in southeastern Spain. But reliable information was hard to come by. The tourist brochures made only passing reference to them, and even the directions that we finally did get were vague to say the least: head down the mountain and through the quarry, turn onto the foot path, then walk toward the water. Precisely how far we should go and which of the half-hidden paths we should take remained a mystery, though.
So on we plodded in Andalusia’s autumnal sunshine dodging killer cacti and recalcitrant donkeys, until we smelt it — the sulfurous pool that first brought the area a measure of fame more than 2,000 years before.
According to legend, Julius Caesar stumbled upon this same spot in 61 BC, when he was merely a provincial administrator with a nasty skin condition, and was so impressed by the pool’s medicinal properties that he became a frequent visitor. The Roman-built structure that encloses it (known as Baños de la Hedionda) is a simple dome with a sheltering wall around the perimeter. Rising about eight feet above ground level, it is broken only by two low arches through which you enter directly into the water by way of either a rough wooden ladder or a stone ramp. Taking the plunge can be unnerving. Darkness makes the depth of the pool difficult to determine, and two subterranean vaults add to the sense of foreboding.
WATER IS DIVINE
Caesar, however, was absolutely right: the water is divine and warm enough for swimming well into the fall. For him, its healing power seemed miraculous. For us, on the other hand, the real miracle was that the baños—despite their proximity to the Costa del Sol, one of Europe’s most congested tourist strips—have no signs, lines or admission fees. In short, they’ve yet to be invaded by the hordes of vacationers who have overrun the Mediterranean coast from Malaga to Algeciras. The same can also be said of Casares, the pueblo blanco or “white village” reputedly named for Caesar that overlooks the baths. And it, too, can seem rather daunting at first.
In part that’s because of its dramatic location: set 1,425 feet up in the Sierra Bermeja Mountains, Casares’ sugar-cube buildings perch precariously on twin plateaus and tumble into the deep crevice between. But it is also because of the quiet. You see, the village is a study in serenity, which is unsettling for those who’ve come to equate holidays with site-filled itineraries and Amazing Race-style activities.
The truth is that, save for the late afternoon (when children take to the soccer field) or dusk (when adults tread the cobbled pedestrian-only streets on their nightly paseo) sounds here are as muted as the almond blossoms that enliven the landscape, which is precisely why Casares is a perfect place to rediscover the lost art of lounging. The first step, literally, is to stroll over to Plaza España where you can browse shops bordering the square and watch locals play pétanque beside a centuries-old fountain. Afterwards, you might putter about in Casares’ small ethno-history museum or pay homage to Blas Infante, the “Father of Andalusian Nationalism,” at his restored birthplace.
SATISFY YOUR HUNGER Next, having satisfied your curiosity, you can concentrate on satisfying your hunger. It’s a pleasant prospect considering Casareño eateries dish up simple fare prepared with Andalusian flare. Specialties include morcilla de chivo sausages and artisanal goat cheese accompanied by dense brown bread. Hearty soups are harvest-time favorites, and game (most notably rabbit rolled in wild herbs) is popular in season.
If you’d like to enjoy these with a side order of scenery, the best bet for dining is Bodeguita de en Medio, which has a rooftop terrace offering views of the ruins that stand guard over the village. The very presence of these, of course, proves life in Casares hasn’t always been quite so peaceful. Its strategic position made it a popular hideout for bandoleros in the 19th century. Before that it was favored stop for armed forces, from the earliest Iberians through to the French who attempted a takeover during the Napoleonic Wars. Those who succeeded left an indelible mark that earned Casares recognition as a National Historic-Artistic Site in 1978, and their legacy is nowhere more apparent than at this isolated spot.
Fortified by the Romans, it was further developed by Moors who gained control of the region in 711. By the 13th century, they’d erected a castle on the seemingly impregnable promontory. Within a few hundred years, Queen Isabella’s Christian soldiers had put an end to Arab domination, and the Encarnación church was built atop it. Now that, too, is an empty shell, and the evocatively decaying structure reaches heavenward with a different purpose: aerials have been attached to it to improve television reception! Contemporary life has brought other changes as well. The climb to the ruins admittedly remains steep. The sweeping views – up to the mountains, down to the sea and across to the northernmost reaches of Africa – are as magnificent as ever.
ROCK OF GIBRALTAR But while the ancients could only gaze out and imagine these distant locales, today’s visitors can easily reach them. Estepona, the closest of the Mediterranean resort towns, is just 25 minutes east by car, and a morning’s drive west through the clouds will take you to Ronda, the stunning gorge-straddling city that has been dubbed the “Birthplace of Bullfighting.” The iconic Rock of Gibraltar, situated an hour south, promises Barbary Apes plus a quick taste of the British Empire. Even Tangier — Morocco’s infamous, undeniably exotic port city — is accessible to early risers, thanks to the packaged daytrips sold all along the seaboard.
Closer to home, Paraje Natural de Sierra Crestellina now beckons ramblers, and diehard duffers are welcome to hit a few balls at a new area golf course. Remember, though, the true beauty of this place is that you don’t have to break a sweat to enjoy it. When you allow yourself to fully surrender to Casares’ laconic spell, simply sitting on a deck chair can provide ample entertainment. It’s easy enough, after all, to idle away hours watching farmers tend the olive and cork groves below, or marveling at the belled goats that graze at impossible heights on the rocky outcroppings above. Once you’ve had your fill of that, you can always soak up the atmosphere in Baños de la Hedionda. Trust me, the water’s fine…
The Fine Print: If relaxing is your primary goal, choosing where to stay is as important as deciding where to go. So while you can bed down in a basic room Hotel Casares for about €60 a night, renting a vacation home is a more restful, and budget-friendly, alternative. We booked ours through Just Casares, a local company which lists traditional white-washed townhouses starting at €300 per week in autumn. Those off-season rates kick in September 1, even though the village hosts two favorite ferias (or fairs) during that month: one honoring La Virgen del Rosario, the other El Cristo. These run respectively the first Saturday in September and over a long weekend in mid-September to coincide with the end of the summer harvest.
Since ancient Pamplona could not build outside of the city walls, expansion had to be up, resulting in tall, narrow buildings. During the Fiesta de San Fermin the bulls run here on Estafeta Street, where there is no excape for the runners except in the doorways of the buildings.
By Marilyn Heimburger Photos by Don and Marilyn Heimburger
Mention Pamplona, Spain, and most people will respond, “Oh, the running of the bulls!”
Although the Fiesta of San Fermin (July 6-14), made known internationally by Ernest Hemingway’s novel The Sun Also Rises, is Pamplona’s most familiar claim to fame, the city boasts many other reasons for tourists to visit, even when the bulls aren’t running.
Pamplona is the capital city of the region of Navarre, a beautiful and diverse area in northern Spain, bordering France along the Pyrenees Mountains. It is just one hour by air and a little more than three hours by train from Madrid. Barcelona is a three and a half hour train ride away.
WHERE TO START Once you’ve arrived and settled into your hotel (the city has one five-star, eight four-star and 20 three-star hotels) start your walking tour at the heart and soul of the city, the Plaza del Castillo.
This tree-lined square was named after the 14th century castle which used to be at one of its corners, and was the site of bullfights from the mid-14th century until 1844 when a bull ring was constructed. Now it has a bandstand in the center and is a popular place for leisure activities and for meeting friends. Cafes line the square, and the streets leading from the square are filled with tapas bars and small shops.
The Cafe Iruna, which looks out onto the Plaza del Castillo, was a favorite meeting place of Ernest Hemingway. It includes the Hemingway Bar, where a life-sized statue of Hemingway leans on the counter, awaiting your Kodak moment. This large cafe was the first location in Pamplona to install electric lights. With its mirrored walls and mirrored mosaic trim bordering the ceiling, the cafe demonstrated the new lights in 1888. Residents gathered inside with anticipation, and as the electric lights were turned on, they rushed in terror to the exits, suspecting witchcraft was responsible for the illumination. The cafe remains an everyday meeting place for the locals. A two-course meal with dessert and beverage costs 13 euros. Or just have coffee while you plan the rest of your route.
SEE THE PAST IN THE PRESENT Be sure to visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria, in what was the old Borough of La Navarreria. Look for the magnificent alabaster tomb of King Carlos III of Navarre and his wife Eleanor, the 16th century stained glass windows and the 13th-14th century Gothic cloister, which is considered one of the finest in Europe. When the church’s ancient Romanesque exterior collapsed, it was replaced during the 17th century with a Neo-Classical facade, hiding the French-Gothic interior. The figure of Mary in the main altar under the silver canopy has been nicknamed “Mary of the Adopted Child,” since the child in the sculpture is a replacement for the original, stolen during the 16th century. For that reason many families present their adopted children here.
If you visit during the spring, notice the blossom-filled chestnut trees that surround the cathedral. In the fall, pick up a fallen chestnut and put it in your pocket. Locals believe carrying the chestnut will protect you from aches and pains in your bones!
The fortified Church of San Cernin from the ancient borough of that same name also boasts a Gothic interior. The Pocico on the outside of the church marks the location of the well where San Cernin baptized the first Christians in Pamplona. Among those baptized was San Fermin, the son of a Roman general. He became a bishop and was eventually beheaded, giving some historic significance to the red scarves worn around one’s neck during the Fiesta of San Fermin.
The Church of San Nicolas, another fortified church from the 12th century, features a watchtower, a Gothic interior, and the largest Baroque organ in Pamplona.
Gothic cloister of the Cathedral of Santa Maria.The racket made by turning the crank of this wooden noisemaker still serves as the “Call to worship” at the Cathedral when the bells are silenced from Good Friday until Easter morning.
UNIQUE TOWN HALL The Town Hall with its remarkable Baroque facade was built between 1753 and 1759 to replace the old one from the 15th century, which was falling into ruin. The launch of a rocket from the upper floor balcony at noon on July 6th each year marks the official beginning of the Festival of San Fermin.
The Navarre History Museum is worth the two-euro cost of admission. A short walk from the Plaza del Castillo, the former 16th century hospital, houses art and archeological exhibits which are arranged from the Prehistoric and Roman ages in the basement through the 20th century on the fourth floor. Included in the collection are intricate Roman mosaics, a Spanish-Muslim casket from the Monastery of Leyere and a painting by Goya.
Pamplona’s town hall — a rocket launched from the upper floor balcony marks the beginning of the Fiesta de San Fermin.
WALK THE BULL ROUTE The route that the bulls run during the Sanfermines is much easier to see without dodging the bulls. Since medieval times the bulls have been driven through the streets to where the bullfights are held, first to the Plaza del Castillo and then to the bullring.
Follow the 1/2-mile route from the corral at the base of Santo Domingo Street to the niche in the wall holding a small statue of San Fermin. Here the runners pause and sing to San Fermin, asking for protection.
Continue up the street to the Town Hall Square, where the area is wider and runners have many places to escape. Make the 90-degree turn where the bulls often slip and fall, onto Estafeta Street, and look up at the second floor balcony of the Gran Hotel La Perla, from which Hemingway watched the action. Here the route is narrow and the only escape from the bulls is in the doorways of buildings.
At the end of the street the route slopes slightly downhill and narrows through wooden fences that funnel the bulls and runners into the bullring. During the few minutes that the bullrun lasts, all stoplights are kept at red to allow quick passage of emergency vehicles, should they be needed.
ONE MILLION VISITORS One million people come to Pamplona for the Sanfermines, which opens with a rocket blast from the balcony of the Town Hall at noon on July 6. The bulls run every morning at 8 am from July 7-14. Viewing space on private balconies lining the route can sell for 150 euros per tourist per day. Of the 6,000 runners, on average each year three people are gored, 80 injured and one dies about every 10 years. The runners are dressed in white with a red scarf around the neck, and carry a rolled-up newspaper to hold in front of the bull’s eyes, in case they get too close. A Sanfermines museum is being planned for 2012, so tourists can experience the July event throughout the year.
Pamplona’s Plaza de Toros (bullring) is the third largest in the world, after those in Mexico City and Madrid. The caretaker of the bullring lives year-round with his family in an adjoining house. This “concierge of the bull ring” takes great pride in keeping the building and grounds in beautiful condition, including the small chapel where the bullfighters kneel and pray before entering the ring. Tickets to the bullfights, held each day during the week of the Sanfermines, range from 400 euros in the shaded seats to 10 euros in the sun. Rumor has it that those in the sun usually have more fun partying than those watching the bullfight from the expensive seats. The money collected from ticket sales goes to charity, as does half of the meat from the bulls, which are butchered on site after the fights.
The chapel where bullfighters pray before entering the ring.
Outside of the bullring stands a statue of Ernest Hemingway, who made the Fiesta of San Fermin and the running of the bulls internationally famous. On the morning of July 6, the opening day of the Fiesta, a group of young people traditionally tie a huge red scarf around the statue’s neck, declaring that the festivities can now begin, since Hemingway has joined the party.
DRAMATIC STATUE The Encierro statue, which vividly depicts the excitement of the running of the bulls, is located a short walk from the Plaza del Castillo, in modern Pamplona. First erected with fewer figures, the statue was so well received that the artist was asked to add to it. The enlarged statue was completed in 2006. The artist put his own face on the figure in the front, about to be stepped on by the bull.
TASTY TAPAS Known here as “pinchos” (the Basque word for tapas) these tasty, unique small portions of seafood, vegetables, meat and pastries are served in bars on the streets that fan out from the Plaza del Castillo. Although pinchos are available all day, eating dinner late is the norm here, so after 9:30 p.m. wander in and out of the small bars and sample a variety of the offerings while standing at the bar with a glass of wine. Many of the recipes are award winners in local and national competitions. Look for the framed certificates proudly displayed on the walls. Baserri won first place for its vegetable Rubik’s cube. Bar Gaucho is also popular with the locals. An award-winning pincho in the “textures” category features slow-cooked salmon topped with a paper-thin loop of raw white asparagus.
Baserri’s award-winning pincho, the vegetable Rubik’s cube.
FINE DINING Pamplona and the region of Navarre boast three restaurants with a one-star Michelin rating. One of them is Rodero, located near the bullring and offering a creative tasting menu of an appetizer, three starters, two second courses and two desserts for around 60 euros.
Relatively new to Pamplona is La Mar Salada, featuring chef Martin Iturri, who worked briefly in Chicago with the Lettuce Entertain You organization. His tasting menu, including two types of paella, a rice dish, is outstanding.
Chef Martin Iturri prepares paella.
A BIT OF HISTORY Originally a Vasconian settlement called Iruna (meaning “city”), Pamplona was named after Roman General Pompey, who founded the city in 75 BC, complete with drains, walls, moats, public baths, temples and houses. Remains of the Roman baths were recently found under the streets of the old quarter while upgrading the town’s infrastructure.
Occupied by Visigoths and Muslims between the 6th and 9th centuries, the Kingdom of Pamplona was founded in the 10th century by the city’s nobles. The city grew during the next two centuries primarily because of the steady stream of pilgrims trekking over the Pyrenees Mountains through Pamplona to the tomb of St. James at Santiago de Compostela. Travelers who decided to stay in Pamplona, and French traders and free artisans who came to provide services for the pilgrims, founded the Boroughs of San Cernin and San Nicolas. These two boroughs, along with the Borough of the Navarreria, which was inhabited by the locals, were each surrounded by walls, had its own fortified cathedral, and was governed separately.
In 1423 King Carlos III ordered walls between the boroughs to be removed, unified their outer walls, and built a city hall where the current 18th century city hall now stands. Pamplona became a fortress city with the construction of a Citadel and was a stronghold for defending Spain against France. The Citadel, considered the best example of Spanish renaissance military architecture, is now the site of beautiful parks and gardens. More than three miles of the medieval walls are still in beautiful condition, inviting a walk through historic gates, to ancient bastions and over bridges.
Expansion outside of the city walls didn’t begin until the end of the 19th century. Until then, growth within the walls meant not more but taller buildings, an unusual sight in Spanish cities, where 2-3 story structures are the norm. You can see these tall and colorful buildings in the old quarter along the streets that fan out from the Plaza del Castillo.
The symbol of a shell identifies the hostel where pilgrims can spend the night for six euros.A pilgrim from Canada with her credentials for walking the Way of St. James.
PILGRIMAGE PATH THROUGH PAMPLONA The Pilgrim’s Way to St. James (Camino de Santiago) has passed through Pamplona for centuries. According to legend, the body of St. James the Apostle was brought by boat to the “end of the western world,” after he was beheaded by in Jerusalem in 44 AD. It is said that his body arrived in the boat covered in scallop shells, and was buried in secret in Compostela, forgotten until re-discovered in 812. Compostela became an important pilgrimage site, with the number of pilgrims reaching its peak in the 12th century.
In the 1980’s interest in the Way to St. James rebounded. A total of 82,000 pilgrims are expected this year because the Feast of St. James (July 25) falls on a Sunday, an event which doesn’t happen again for 11 years. Pilgrims register their name, age, country of origin, and motivation for making the pilgrimage, and carry a credential, which is stamped each time they reach the next destination on their trek. Once spring begins, pilgrims can be seen throughout Pamplona, wearing hiking shoes, large backpacks, and carrying the symbolic scallop shell somewhere on their load. The pathway is marked with the shell symbol and yellow arrows. Hostels provide a place to sleep along the way for a few euros a night.
GREEN CITY Pamplona, with a population of 180,000, is very proud of its parks, which comprise more than 20% of the city. In fact, the city claims to be the greenest city in Spain, with almost 34 square yards of green space per resident.
An English-style garden (the largest park in the city) is built on the facing of the Citadel. The interior of the Citadel houses the Ciudadela Park. There you’ll find an open-air sculpture museum and military buildings housing art exhibitions. Taconera Park is on a bastion of the ancient walls, and contains a zoo (yes, a zoo) within the moat.
In addition to many other parks, including a Japanese garden, there is a 7-1/2-mile walking path along the Arga River with areas to picnic and fish. Most are easily accessible by foot from the old quarter, ready to explore and enjoy.
EXCURSIONS OUTSIDE OF PAMPLONA The region of Navarre offers diverse landscapes and opportunities for excursions outside of Pamplona, from the Pyrenees in the north to desert in the south.
The 13th century Romanesque Church of Saint Mary of Eunate is located southwest of Pamplona toward Estella, on the Pilgrim’s Way to St James. The origin of the peculiar octagonal stone building is unclear. Some legends connect it with the Templars, some as a shelter or hospital for 13th century pilgrims, many of whom appear to have been buried there. Some attribute to it the same mystical energies as that of Stonehenge and the pyramids. It continues to be a popular stop for pilgrims today.
HOW ABOUT A WINERY TOUR? Navarre is known for its fine wines. The Arinzano Winery operated by the Chivite family has been awarded Pago status, which is the highest level of wine in Spain, an achievement shared with only four other estates in the country. The beautiful estate and winery lies along the Ega River, and is open for tours.
The Arinzano WineryChef Jose at Restaurante Principe de Viana serves vegetables harvested that morning from his market garden.
The area around Tudela, about 60 miles south of Pamplona, is known for its market gardens, producing excellent vegetables from the rich soils in the flood plain of the Ebro River. Visit Restaurante Principe de Viana in Murchante, where Chef Jose Aguado prepares vegetables harvested that morning from his family’s garden. A local specialty served only in April and May is menestra, a vegetable stew with asparagus, artichokes, lettuce hearts, peas, beans and chunks of ham.
Menestra, a vegetable stew served only in April and May, is a local specialty. Photo courtesy Restaurante Príncipe de Viana
OIL FROM OLIVES It is a little known fact that Spain produces more olive oil than Italy. To find out how it’s done, visit Hacienda Queiles, an olive oil producer in the Tudela area, that prides itself on green technology and excellent quality. Its olive oil is sold in the United States at Dean and DeLuca, Williams Sonoma and Whole Foods. Tours are available for individuals, families, or groups; e-mail Juan.barral@haciendaqueiles.com
Olive oil from the Hacienda Queiles
WHERE TO STAY The city’s only five-star hotel is the historic Gran Hotel La Perla, ideally located in the heart of the old quarter on the Plaza del Castillo. Ernest Hemingway stayed here each time he returned to Pamplona. In fact, his room (which was number 217 until the hotel was extensively remodeled and renumbered to 201) is still as it was when he stayed in it. His balcony overlooks Estafeta Street, where he watched the running of the bulls without leaving his room. Only the bathroom has been enlarged and modernized. Other celebrities, including Orson Welles and violinist Pable Sarasate, also stayed here.
Owned by the same family for three centuries, the hotel’s renovated lobby of glass and stainless steel with white marble floors and stairways is punctuated with antiques from its earlier days: among them an original switchboard, mailbox, and the first elevator in Pamplona, which was still in use until 1991. The hotel also purchased some furnishings, including wooden chairs now in the hotel library, and original recipes (still used with some personal touches) in the hotel restaurant, La cocina de Alex Mugica, from Hemingway’s favorite restaurant when it closed.
Among Pamplona’s eight four-star hotels is the elegant Palacio Guendulain, built in the 18th century palace of the Viceroy of New Granada. Located a short walk from the Plaza del Castillo, it was the residence of the Guendulain family (now living in Madrid) for over two centuries until the end of 2008, and opened as a hotel in September 2009. It has 25 guest rooms, a lounge bar and facilities for meetings and events. Some of the guest rooms use furnishings original to the palace. The carriage on the hotel logo pays homage to the exquisite gilded carriage, also original to the palace, which is on display in the lobby.
Antique switchboard from earlier days at the Gran Hotel la Perla
SLEEP IN A PALACE The Royal Palace of Olite is a beautifully restored 15th century palace, part of which is now a Parador, or hotel. It was commissioned by Carlos III, the king of Navarre who unified Pamplona, and whose alabaster tomb lies in the Cathedral of Santa Maria. It was one of the most luxurious palaces in Europe in its day and contains a hanging garden designed for the king’s wife. Stay in the palace overnight, or for a delightful day trip from Pamplona, take a tour of the palace and the adjoining chapel of St. George, and eat your midday meal at the Parador restaurant.
Restaurant at the Parador of Olite
LOCAL GUIDE For an English-speaking tour guide who can lead you through Pamplona with insight, humor and local anecdotes, contact Francisco Glaria with Novotur guias.
A knight in armor stands guard at the Parador of Olite.
TRAVELING THROUGH MADRID? If you stay overnight in Madrid at the beginning or end of your Pamplona adventure, stay at the Hotel Meninas, located a short walk from Madrid’s Royal Palace and the Madrid Opera House. The adjoining El Cafe de La Opera features professional opera singers who serve you and perform arias while you enjoy your meal.
The winning falla, which cost more than 1.2 million to construct.
By Darryl Newman Photos by the author or as noted
Valencia is probably best known as the birthplace of Valencia oranges and paella, but from March 15-19, you might think Spain’s third largest city was the birthplace of pyromania mixed with pageantry and celebrations. It’s the festival of Las Fallas, and it’s billed as one of Europe’s most spectacular events.
Fallas means “fires,” but is also the word to describe wooden-framed monuments that are placed in squares and key intersections throughout the city. The fallas depict current events, politicians and celebrities, and usually have a satirical tone. On the last night of the festival, the cremà takes place, the burning of all of the fallas, except the winning one.
Winning children’s falla
HISTORY OF FALLAS Why the burning? Over past centuries, carpenters cleaned out their shops by making bonfires of wood scraps. It coincided with St. Joseph’s Day, the patron saint of carpenters, on March 19. The wood scraps took on doll-like shapes and then became effigies reflecting whatever face was griping the neighborhood. Today the fallas still poke fun but appear as elaborate polystyrene (styrofoam) painted works of art that can tower as high as a six-story building and cost more than $1 million to construct.
MASCLETÀ At 2 o’clock from March 1-19, there’s the daily pyrotechnic mascletà in the always-packed City Hall Square. For 10 minutes, about 250 pounds of gunpowder explode in a rhythmic cadence of deafening blasts. Different sound artists shoot off a concoction of giant firecrackers, thunderous smoke bombs and screaming rockets to wow the crowds.
The city hall falla turns into an inferno during the crema.
STREET FESTIVAL Valencia’s Old Town, the largest in Europe, is the ideal place to stroll around looking at the hundreds of captivating fallas (pack comfortable shoes). To accommodate the over one-half million visitors to this coastal city, 700 streets are closed to traffic. Down any street, you may see a 100-member falla commission with women, children and men in 18th century ornate Valencian dress being followed by their lively marching band. The streets are also filled with other kinds of sound. Random firecrackers can be heard everywhere and don’t be surprised to see toddlers, yes toddlers, taking part in the fun.
On a food note, you might see paella being cooked over hot coals in the street. To quell any hunger, temporary food stands are also set up everywhere, serving hot buñuelos de calabaza con chocolate (hot pumpkin donuts with hot chocolate as thick as pudding). For a refreshing drink, you can try the local horchata from the tiger nut legume. It has a pear-like texture and a thirst-quenching sweetness.
Neighbors gather to cook paella in the street.
BULLFIGHTS As with any good festival in Spain, there’s always a crowd at the Plaza de Toros (bullring). For nine days, the best bullfighters in Spain descend on Valencia. This year, two young superstars, José Tomás and Sebastián Castella, were on the billing among many other talented bullfighters.
It’s said that Spain hasn’t seen a bullfighter like Tomás in decades. He excites the crowd with his poise and fearless entanglement with the bull. Many of his passes let the bull in so close that it actually grazes him. Somehow, Tomás makes what is arguably a cruel sport seem like a graceful and courageous ballet with death.
Superstar bullfighter Jose Tomas
FLOWER OFFERING Amid the celebrations, there is a solemn aspect of Fallas as well. It is the procession of 105,000 Valencians from the edges of the Old Town to a 40-foot-high statue of Our Lady of the Forsaken, Valencia’s patron saint. Women carry bouquets of white, red or pink carnations that are offered to the Virgin. For two days, the flowers are placed in between wooden slats to fill in the pattern of her super-sized robe. The women become so emotional at seeing the Virgin that many are overwhelmed with tears.
NIT DE FOC Every night there are fireworks leading up to the 1:30 am Nit de Foc (Night of Fire), the biggest fireworks show of the festival. Thousands walk across the bridges of the city to the Paseo de la Alameda to get a clear view of possibly the world’s noisiest and most colorful 22-minute extravaganza of fireworks. The sky is so bright with fireworks at the finale that it appears as if it is daylight.
CREMÀ The last night is the cremà with 766 fallas burning throughout the city. At 1 am, the huge falla at the City Hall Square is the last to burn. It is doused with gasoline and packed with fireworks and loud explosives before the immolation. Within minutes it goes up in scorching flames. It’s a sad ending to the festival, but the burning is said to take away the past year’s negativity in order to make room for a new season.
The next morning, the streets are all clean and a calm takes over the city. It seems as if Valencia just simply turned over a fresh new page.
HOW TO GET THERE Valencia is relatively easy to get to from the US. First, get yourself on a flight to Madrid, Spain’s capital. From Madrid, it’s a quick 40-minute connecting flight to Valencia. Iberia, the national airline of Spain, partners with American.
WHERE TO STAY Valencia has over 100 hotels to choose from. I stayed at the Hotel Astoria Palace. It is the emblematic hotel of Valencia, ideally situated in the heart of Old Town and a few short minutes walk to the City Hall Square, cathedral and restaurant/shopping areas. Its central location is key for all the main events at Las Fallas.
The hotel itself has a long history of impressive guests from famous Spanish actors to bullfighters. Despite its 204 rooms, it has the elegant charm of a smaller hotel; it was recently renovated with a modern lobby and dining areas as well as with a spacious, high-ceiling bar. The rooms are classic Spain with rich wood furnishings.
During Fallas, the charismatic director Juan Torregrosa was present in the lobby and throughout the hotel to greet guests. He speaks English having had lived with a family in Arkansas for two years.
Vinatea, the hotel’s restaurant, features an extensive menu including a dozen unique rice and paella dishes. Its modern white setting with purple flourishes is the perfect place to dine and to try a bottle of wine from their extensive bodega.
WHERE TO EAT If seafood is your thing, Civera, near the train station, is a must. You won’t believe their selection of shrimp and lobster in tanks to the scallops and dozens of different kinds of shellfish on display. All of their seafood is either from the bordering Mediterranean or Cantabrian seas. You can try the biggest oysters you’ll ever see — about the size of your fist. If you haven’t tried grilled sepia (local form of calamari) with olive oil, you’re in for a treat.
For a classic Valencian restaurant complete with paella and other typical rice dishes, try La Riuà. It’s one of the oldest establishments in the city with walls decorated with colorful and fascinating plates.
For artistic and mouth-watering tapas or pintxos, there’s Sagardi, a Basque tavern-like setting with an upstairs restaurant for dining including juicy T-bone steaks and popular fish like hake and cod.
European Traveler 