Experiences – Page 15 – European Traveler

Christkindlmarkt Nuremberg-Style

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Marilyn and Don Heimburger

When you think of Christmas markets in Germany, Nuremberg usually comes to mind first. It has a very long history and is considered the “queen” of the Christmas Markets.

The Christkindlmarkt of Nuremberg was first called “Kindelsmarkt” in an inscription on a wooden oval box dated 1628.

The main market square between the Schoener Brunnen (beautiful fountain) and the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) is the site of this famous Christmas market. The 180 market stalls with their red and white-striped canvas roofs are arranged in rows and fill the area with the aromas and lights of the holiday season. The popular Christkindlmarkt has been called a “Little Town of Wood and Cloth.”

PRUNE MEN ARE SPECIALITY

Vendors offer the beautiful craft wares and decorations found in many markets. But one special item you can find here are prune men: figures 6-8 inches tall with arms and legs made of dried prunes and heads made of walnuts.

An edible specialty of Nuremberg is its tiny sausages, which weigh exactly 23 grams and are about the size of a little finger. According to legend, they were made small enough to fit through the keyhole of a door, just in case someone was locked out of the city gate after curfew and needed something to eat!

Another treat is Nuremberg’s famous Lebkuchen (gingerbread). Lebkuchen Schmidt ships its goods all over the world, and is available in beautifully decorated tins, even music boxes (www.lebkuchen-schmidt.com.)

Unique to the Nuremberg Christmas market is Christkind, who officially opens the market at 5:30 p.m. on the Friday before the first Sunday in Advent. The Christkind, or Christmas Angel, represents the Christ Child as the one who gives gifts on Christmas, as opposed to St. Nicholas, who delivers gifts into the waiting shoes of good children on December 6.

Every two years since 1969 a young girl is elected by a combination of popular vote and jury selection to represent the Christkind. Strict rules govern the age and height of a Christkind candidate. She must also be a good student, since her many appearances force her to miss school, and she must not be afraid of heights, because she must stand on a balcony near the top of the Church of Our Lady to deliver her market-opening pronouncement!

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Nuremberg is understandably proud of its Christkindlmarkt. In order to protect the market’s reputation, war toys are banned, as are decorations of plastic firs, products displayed in cardboard boxes, and canned Christmas music.

A short walk away from the main market square is the Rathausplatz (Town Hall Square) where you can find 14 vendor stalls from Nuremberg’s partner cities offering their unique wares.

In addition to the Christkindlmarkt in Nuremberg’s main market square, a special Kinderweihnacht (Children’s Christmas Market) on the Hans-Sachs-Platz has entertained families since 1999. A 100-year-old steam Ferris wheel, a steam railway and a merry-go-round offer rides. Vendor stalls have lower counters to invite children to see and touch, decorate cookies and candles, and have pictures taken with Santa. Across from the children’s market is the Sternenhaus (Star House), which serves as headquarters for the Christkind and offers cultural programs for children.

One very special market open all year round, but is especially magical during the Christmas season is the Handwerkerhof. Located across from the main train station, the stone and half-timbered structures look as old as the King’s tower and fortification walls that surround them. But the entire little town was built in 1971 as an additional attraction during the Albreacht Durer 500 anniversary celebration. It has remained a year-round attraction highlighting craftsmen who work with pewter, leather, glass, candles, precious metals, gingerbread and dolls.

You can watch bakers make Lebkuchen, shop for tin toys, wood and glass ornaments, have a mug of hot spiced wine, and then eat at the Bratwurstglocklein, a wonderful wood-paneled, low-ceilinged pub with waitresses dressed in traditional dirndls, and food served on pewter plates. Try the tiny sausages each of three ways: cooked with vinegar and onions, smoked and grilled. Served with potato salad, saurkraut and beer, it’s a tradional Nuremberger treat. The Handwerkerhof is open six days a week (seven days a week during Christkindlmarkt) from the middle of March through December 31 (www.handwerkerhof.de.)

Wonderful accommodations for your Christkindlmarkt visit can be found at the Maritim Nuernberg (www.maritim.de.) It is conveniently located just a short walk from the main train station, and across the street from the Handwerkerhof. Another short walk takes you to the main market square and the Christkindlmarkt in the shadow of the Schoener Brunnen.

One more suggestion: before leaving the main market square, look carefully at the Schoener Brunnen until you find the gold ring. Make a wish and turn the ring three times to make your wish come true. Perhaps you will wish to return to this beautiful market again next year!

Munich’s Colorful 2007 Christmas Markets

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Marilyn and Don Heimburger

What better way to discover the magic of Christmas than to experience the sights, sounds and smells of Germany’s famous colorful Christmas markets!

Not only do these markets offer beautifully-crafted products and traditional food, they are also filled with a sense of excitement, community and anticipation during the season of Advent.

Children’s eyes sparkle as they gaze at the colorful lighted displays, and friends meet to share a drink and celebrate the season.

European Traveler’s first stop on a Weihnachtsmarkt tour was Munich’s historic market in Marienplatz. Possibly dating from the 14th century, the market was first called a “Nicholas Market” during the 17th century. Since 1972 the Christkindlmarkt, as it is now called, has been held in the central square of Marienplatz, near the famous Glockenspiel in the town hall.

Market-goers can relax at the Ratskeller located in the basement of Munich’s *Rathaus*.

100-FOOT-TREE SPARKLES

A nearly 100-foot- tall Christmas tree, sparkling with thousands of tiny white lights, towers over the more than 140 stalls that fill the square and meander down Kaufingerstrasse toward the famous two-towered Frauenkirche.

Hungry? Try the grilled sausages and sauerkraut, or potato pancakes with a glass of the delicious local beer. Or warm up with a cup of Gluhwein (hot spiced wine) and take home a souvenir Christmas Market mug. Buy a gingerbread heart that declares your love or friendship in icing, or a package of traditional Nuremberg Lebkuchen. The aroma of roasted almonds, served in paper cones, is everywhere. Handmade Christmas decorations of straw, pewter and wood, hand carved from the Oberammergau, South Tyrol and the Erzgebirge areas of Germany, carry forward Christmas traditions of centuries passed.

Candles, pottery and toys are among the offerings of other merchants, all of whom brave the chilly weather to be a part of this festive annual event that is open from the Friday before the first Sunday in Advent until Christmas Eve.

SPECIAL CHRISTKINDL STAMP

On the way to the additional booths located in the town hall’s inner courtyard is a special Christmas Post Office which will postmark your mail “Christkindl” and send it anywhere in the world.

Unique to Munich’s Christmas markets since the middle of the 18th century is the Kripperlmarkt, Germany’s largest manger market. Located a short walk away from Marienplatz on the Rindermarkt, this specialty market offers animals, figures, stalls, lanterns, sheds, trees – anything for a large or small Nativity scene. Food and beverages are available at this market from the hut at the base of a colorful, two-story-high, rotating candle pyramid.

Both the Christkindlmarkt on Marienplatz and the Kripperlmarkt on the Rindermarkt are open Monday through Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., on Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and on Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. A 10-minute walk from Marienplatz to Brinner Strasse at Wittelsbacher Platz brings you to the Mittelaltermarkt. This unique market is designed to transport you to the Middle Ages, where knights and ladies-in-waiting stroll among wooden stalls, which are lighted by flaming torches and candlelight.

Vendors dress in period costumes, and hot mulled wine is served in clay vessels. Pastry, waffles, crepes, fur accessories, jewelry, candles, ceramics, and knight and princess costumes for children, are among the products available at this relatively new but increasingly popular market.

THE DALLMAYR STORE

On the way back to Marienplatz, stop and visit Dallmayr, Germany’s most famous deli . It has been located on Dienerstrasse between Marienplatz and Odeonplatz. since the late 17th century, but the current building was constructed in 1950, after the previous one was burned to the ground during World War II. Known for its brand name coffee, the delicatessen offers luxury foods that include confectioneries, tea, honey, jelly, chocolate, meat, sausage, chicken, fish, caviar, pasta, bread, fruits, vegetables, wine, tobacco, and even an indoor fountain stocked with live crayfish. There is also a high-end restaurant with seating for 120.

Another interesting and tasty stop is Rischart Bakery, located right off Marienplatz. During the Christmas market season, this outdoor, cobble-stoned café is transformed, with the help of a windowed white tent, into a heated, carpeted, indoor café, complete with a white, fabric-swagged, star-lit ceiling. Children are invited to assemble cookies for baking at a workstation, while adults enjoy coffee and a pastry.

DEUTSCHES MUSEUM OFFERS A LOT

Is it too rainy to visit the Christmas markets? Spend some time at the Deutsches Museum until the weather clears. Founded in 1903, the museum shows the development of science and technology from early time to the present day. It is one of the largest museums in the world, with exhibits on marine navigation, mining and man’s first attempts at flight to space travel and rocket science.

Beautifully detailed models show railroad and bridge construction. The museum’s collection of musical instruments is one of the most important of its kind anywhere in the world. Tours and demonstrations are scheduled daily in many departments. Find more information at www.deutsches-museum.de.

If the magic of Christmas at the markets isn’t enough, end your day at the Munich Opera House enjoying a performance of Mozart’s “Magic Flute.” This production is a holiday favorite for families, who dress in their finest for the event. During the intermission, have a glass of wine and light dinner or snack at the lower level food service area. A behind-the-scenes tour of the Bavarian State Opera house reveals the immense area available to facilitate movement and storage of scenery for the many productions. With seating for 2,101, it is the largest opera house in Germany. First built between 1811 and 1818, it was rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1823, and again after being bombed during World War II. The current neoclassic building was finished in 1963.

With the popularity of Munich’s Christmas Markets, accommodations may be difficult to find near Marienplatz. For comfortable lodging, try the Hotel Pullman Munch, which is just a short U-Bahn ride away from Marienplatz, the Christmas markets, and the Opera House. It is located at Theodor-Dombart-Strasse 4, 80805 Munich Phone: +49 89 360990.

Oberammergau’s Passion Play and RUHR.2010 lead the way

Colorful Oberammergau is home of the Passion Play in 2010.

Photos by Don Heimburger

With anniversaries and unique events all year long, 2010 is shaping up to be a year of variety and diversity in Germany.

From modern to traditional, the festivals and anniversaries offer something for every taste: the RUHR.2010 European Capital of Culture, the decennial Passion Play performance, Robert Schumann’s 200th birthday, the 300th anniversary of the renown Meissen Porcelain, the 175th birthday of the German Railway and last but not least, the 200th year of the world’s most famous beer festival, the Oktoberfest in Munich.

Essen and the Ruhr Region in western Germany will be voted the “European Cultural Capital 2010.” For the first time in this European competition the cultural capital is not an individual city, but a whole region with Essen as the standard bearer.

The Ruhr region is Germany’s highest populated area and especially exciting for its post-industrial transformation. Discover this region on the move with its cutting edge museums and art installations within the existing walls of former coal mines and factories. The exciting project RUHR.2010 celebrates those changes with fascinating exhibitions, events and workshops starting in January. www.ruhr2010.de

For the 41st time, the Bavarian village of Oberammergau will celebrate the Passion Play in 2010. This event has taken place every 20 years since its first enactment in 1633. More than 2,000 Oberammergauers, actors, singers, instrumentalists and stage technicians, bring to life the last days of Christ in approximately six hours of playing time. More than 500,000 visitors from all over the world and tens of thousands of Americans will be part of this unique religious event from May 15 to October 3. www.passionsspiele2010.de

Only one year after Mendelssohn, Leipzig celebrates another one of its famous citizens: the 200th birthday of Robert Schumann. Many concerts will be dedicated to his works, featuring solo concertos, symphonies, piano works and song-cycles.

Without Schumann, 20th century music would be quite different. The fusion of radical subjectivity and mastery of form, and his characteristic modernity and individuality, has inspired and influenced many composers who came after him. A highlight of the Schumann Year is the anniversary concert in the Leipziger Gewandhaus on June 3 and 4, but also Baden-Baden, Bonn, Bremen, Dresden, Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Stuttgart and Zwickau will celebrate the composer with special concerts and exhibitions. www.schumann-portal.de (German only)

The history of European porcelain began with the discovery of hard porcelain and the subsequent founding of the Meissen porcelain workshop in 1710 near Dresden. In 2010 the Meissen porcelain workshop will celebrate the third centenary of its founding. Visitors can tour the factory and the museums as well as participate in workshops.

The anniversary will be celebrated with several world class porcelain exhibitions in Meissen and Dresden. In the Meissen workshop the yearlong project “All Nations are Welcome” shows outstanding pieces of Meissen Porcelain that reflect the influence of different cultures and epochs during the workshop’s 300-year history.

Within the walls of Albrechtsburg Castle in Meissen, where the first European porcelain workshop was founded in 1710, a special exhibition takes you deep into the beginnings of the Meissen porcelain (May 8 – October 31). Another highlight will be the exhibition in the Japanese Palais in Dresden, showing famous works from the first 100 years of the Meissen workshop (May – August). http://friedrich.meissen.com

The world’s most famous beer festival, the Oktoberfest in Munich, celebrates its 200th anniversary from September to October 2010. It took place the first time in 1810 as a festival honoring the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig (later King Ludwig I) and Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen. The festival grounds Theresienwiesen were named after her. The Oktoberfest, or “Wiesn” as it is called in Bavaria, started out as a horse race. A parade was added in the following years, and at the end of the 19th century, local brewers opened their beer tents. Today it is an enormous festival, attracting millions of visitors from all over the world every year with Bavarian music, food and, of course, beer. www.oktoberfest.de

In Nuremberg, 175 years ago, the first German train, the steam-driven “Adler” (eagle) started off towards the neighboring city of Fuerth. To celebrate this milestone in Germany’s history, the city will host several events throughout 2010: During the “Blue Night” (May 15th), artists will stage spectacular projections and actions to kick off the Railway Year, the past will be brought to life again with major locomotive and vehicle parades planned by German Rail and a comprehensive jubilee exhibition in the Deutsche Bahn Museum will focus on 175 years of railway history (dates to be determined). www.nuernberg.de

European Christmas Markets Celebrate the Season

Advent is the season in Europe when thousands of communities–large and small–set up Christmas trees, colorful lights and craft stalls in their central market square. For decades, Europeans have been getting together at these unique Christmas markets to share conversation, to enjoy a glass of hot mulled wine, or to find just the right specialty gift for a family member or friend.

European Traveler offers a quick glance at some of these fascinating markets, which normally last until Christmas Eve.

Belgium

Every town in French-speaking Wallonia hosts its own Christmas Market. The central square of Liège and the neighbouring Place du Marché stage one of Belgium’s largest Christmas Markets, attracting more than 1 million visitors with 190 wooden chalets full of tempting goodies, sweets and original hand crafted products and presents.

If you’re in Brussels between November 27 and January 3, enjoy the Brussels Winter Wonderland featuring a Christmas Market with many stalls, a giant illuminated ferris wheel, street activities and a large skating rink.

Switzerland

In Lucerne, a number of Christmas events take place, including the Christ Child Market at Railcity, the train station, between November 28 – December 21. Around 50 festively-decorated market stalls bring a Christmas atmosphere feel to the station.

Every year between December 3-20 Lucerne’s Christmas Market takes place at the Franziskanerplatz. There are a large variety of stands with Christmas decorations, sweets, food and beverages. The Christmas Tree Market usually starts one week before Christmas along the Schweizerhofquai. Then between December 17-20, 20 stands from 20 countries present typical Christmas items from their homelands. There is always a stage featuring Christmas productions from all over the world. For more information, go to www.luzern.com/en/welcome.cfm?

Germany

Thuringia is primarily famous for its festive Christmas markets and especially the large selection of glass Christmas tree decorations. The Lauscha Ball Market (always held during two weekends in Advent) has the largest selection, but these traditional decorations are also available at other Thuringian Christmas markets.

In Frankfurt you are invited to the large, time-honored Christmas market where you can become acquainted with the market’s many culinary specialities and its traditions. You can join tour guides in ascending to the rooftop gallery of St. Nicholas Church, from where you’ll be able to enjoy a wonderful panoramic view of the entire market and the Frankfurt skyline. Next, join young and old for a nostalgic ride on a vintage carousel. Warm yourself with a hot cup of mulled wine at the end of the tour and take in the wonderful view of the market’s beautifully illuminated Christmas tree. The 1 1/2 hour tours include a carousel ride, hot mulled wine and special marzipan candy. Tours are available in English and German from the first day in Advent until Christmas.

Thanks to the Tourist Boards of Germany, Belgium, Austria and Switzerland for the photos in the report.

Conrad Brussels…A Warm Welcome and Oversized Towels

When you think of cosmopolitan Brussels, you probably think of chocolates and beer and great food.

But it also has some very good hotels. Take the Conrad Brussels, at Avenue Louise 71, opened in 1993. Avenue Louise is a broad, highly fashionable thoroughfare, and the stately Conrad fits right in.

The hotel lobby area is wide and expansive, and it gives the feel of sophistication and luxury (the hotel is rated five stars; Expedia.com rates the hotel between Superior and Exceptional, or 4 1/2 stars). The exterior of the refurnished building has regained its 19th century elegance.

My quiet room, #519, was spacious (the hotel promotes the fact that it offers the most spacious rooms of any hotel in the city) and featured plush carpeting. It also overlooked the city. There was a large television, a Mr. Coffee machine with a couple of bags of coffee, a tray with a brush, laundry bag, shoe bag, shoe mitt, and an electrical outlet with both 115- and 220-volt sockets.

There was a marble bathroom, robe and slippers, a hi-end Bose Wave radio, and the largest fluffy towels I’ve ever been wrapped in, measuring 4′ x 6′. The room had classic decor and eco-friendly Halogen lightbulbs. A secure key card operated the elevator that featured dark wood paneling and lots of brass and glass.

There was an unbelievable amount of space in the closet for clothes, and a medicine cabinet in the bathroom. There was pull-down bed service in the evening. The bed was comfortable. The accompanying photo was taken in Room #519 while I was there.

The restaurant served a very fine all-inclusive breakfast in the morning with meats, eggs, rolls, fruits, yogurts, cereals, juices and fine Belgian coffee, and more. Friendly service and smiles were noted by the wait staff and the reservation clerks.

The hotel has 269 guestrooms including 39 suites, as well as rooms for the disabled, and of course, non-smoking rooms are available. In fact, there are three entire non-smoking floors in the hotel. For meetings and conferences, there are 15 meeting rooms covering 6,000 square feet.

On TripAdvisor.com one hotel guest wrote,”Classy hotel. Polite and professional front of house staff. Very Good! The bedrooms are very spacious and the king size beds are so comfortable. Only negative point is that some of the bedroom decor was a little tired, however, I did get a cheap deal for the standard of hotel! Worth every penny. “

DINING AND SPA AT THE CONRAD
While I wasn’t able to dine at the Conrad, I can tell you there is Cafe Wiltcher’s with indoor and terrace dining; there’s the Loui Lounge & Bar that offers coffee and biscotti, a light lunch or tapas, and mezza or antipasti. There is also a lobby lounge and 24-hour room service.

There is the health club of the hotel, Aspria Avenue Louise, which features a 56-foot-long pool, a gym, sauna, jacuzzi and a spa offering more than 60 treatments. The health club fee is 25 EUR.

The location of the hotel is about a 20- to 25-minute walk from the Grand Place, which is said to be Europe’s most beautiful square. Unless it’s a pleasant day, I’d suggest a cab which will get you to this area of the city quickly. I did walk to the Royal Palace and the Palais de Justice which is a fairly easy walk from the hotel.

Pricing: Rates will vary depending on the rooms, but I found rates between 389 Eur (for a classic king bedroom or two queen beds) and 564 EUR (for a junior suite with two queen beds or one king size bed). The hotel also offers a Romantic Escape Package that includes early check-in, in-room sparkling wine and breakfast for two, either in-room or in the restaurant.

Overall I enjoyed my quick stay here. The Conrad chain is known for its upscale service, and their Brussels hotel meets these fine standards. Don Heimburger