Accommodations – Page 12 – European Traveler

Leipzig on a Platter

This city is a multi-course meal for visitors

By Don Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger and Leipzig Tourism Office

If you were to spoon out Leipzig and put it on a plate, you’d discover a salad, a main meat course, vegetable course, a sorbet interlude and a delicious dessert.

I’d designate the salad course as the city’s unusual green belt at the Auenwald; the meat course is the art, architecture and music; the vegetable course Martin Luther and the Peaceful Revolution; the sorbet interlude is this town’s love of coffee; and the dessert is the city’s zest for living and its nightlife.

The city of Leipzig in central Germany, population 500,000, has a colorful history stretching back more than 800 years, and many events have shaped this former East German city. The city’s people and several major historical events have fashioned this town, and made it what it is.

SORBS FIRST SETTLED HERE

Sorbs first settled here in the 7th century, establishing a trading post known as Lipzk or “place near the lime trees.” After Leipzig was granted a town charter and market privileges around 1165, it quickly developed into an important center of commerce.

Maximilian I decided to award Leipzig imperial trade fair privileges in 1497, which helped turn the city into one of Europe’s leading trade fair centers, and it remains so today. Following the world’s first samples fair held in Leipzig in 1895, the city remained one of the global trading hubs until World War II put a hold on that.

It’s hard to believe, but Leipzig has a floodplain forest that runs straight through its center, one of the largest of its kind in Europe. Consisting of eight square miles of trees, every year more trees are planted, and the green space is enlarged. A variety of protected plants and animals are found here, including a rare butterfly species.

This “salad area” or greenbelt is easy to spot on a roadmap, with a large green area running north to south through the city. Four streams also flow through the city. Another part of the city that has been “greened up” is the Leipzig Zoo, where tropical Gondowanaland just opened. This lush section of the zoo, larger than two football fields, allows visitors to come into close contact with the tropical rain forests of Africa, Asia and South America. It features 40 exotic animal species and approximately 500 different plant and animal species, and more than 17,000 plants started their journey in nursery gardens in Thailand, Malaysia and Florida to create this tropical environment.

The Alte Börse, built in 1678-87 by Christian Richter, was originally used as a trading floor for merchants.

MAIN COURSE: ART-ARCHITECTURE AND MUSIC
As Leipzigers are fond of saying, for the young and creative Leipzig is no longer an insider’s tip. Word has spread that the city’s working and living conditions are just right, and three universities with an artistic or cultural profile, as well as Leipzig University, constantly feed the pool of ideas. Leipzig is known for its vibrant arts, music and festival scene; this place not only appeals to artists and actors, but is also becoming a trendy destination for leisure travelers.

Leipzig’s dynamic art scene enjoys an excellent reputation worldwide. Interestingly, a former cotton mill, Spinnerei, in the trendy Plagwitz district, is home to a number of galleries and studios. Formerly the largest cotton mill in continental Europe, Spinnerei now has the highest density of galleries in Germany. In this old factory complex are 80 artists, 14 galleries and exhibition spaces which house creative professionals like architects, designers, craftspeople, retailers and printers.

Artist and professor Neo Rauch of the New Leipzig School, whose paintings combine his personal history with the politics of industrial alienation, reflects on the influence of social realism. Hollywood star Brad Pitt recently purchased one of his works.

The GRASSI Museum of Applied Art, with its world class collection, opened as Germany’s second museum of applied arts in 1874. It is considered one of Europe’s leading museums of arts and crafts. The high point of the year within the GRASSI museum’s special exhibition is a trade fair for applied art and design, an international forum of contemporary applied art and experimental design.

Then there’s another part of the Grassimesse, the Designers’ Open, which is a well-established independent design festival. An extensive program including lectures, workshops, movies and fashion shows complete the fair.

In 1996 the Leipzig Fair’s new exhibition complex opened, featuring trailblazing architecture, spacious avenues and the stunning Glass Hall at its core.

THE CITY OF MUSIC

If you go to Leipzig, a visit to St. Thomas’s Church is a must, since it is the home of the world-famous St. Thomas Boys Choir and where Johann Sebastian Bach was employed for 27 years as organist and choirmaster.

His grave can be seen in the chancel. Motets are performed every Friday and Saturday by the choir, and there are concerts in front of the statue of Bach outside in July and August. The Bach Museum is located opposite the church.

Another regular musical highlight is the Sunday recitals at Mendelssohn House. Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy used to live in the building, which now contains the only museum dedicated to the composer.

There are two additional important centers of music in Leipzig: the Leipzig Opera House and the Gewandhaus Concert Hall.

The Gewandhaus Orchestra, dating back more than 250 years, regularly performs in both venues. The Opera House is the third oldest civilian music theater stage in Europe. And Schumann House is dedicated to the memory of Robert Schumann, one of the greatest composers of the 19th century Romantic era.

Leipzig also hosts several music festivals, large and small, including the International Bach Festival, the A Capella Festival, the Leipzig Jazz Festival and the Mendelssohn Festival.

MARTIN LUTHER AND THE PEACEFUL REVOLUTION
Our vegetable course includes reformer Martin Luther, who was known to come to Leipzig to face the Catholic Church hierarchy to explain his ideas about Christianity and indulgences. Martin Luther, who lived in nearby Wittenberg, stayed in Leipzig on no less than 17 occasions. His most important visit was for his participation in the Leipzig Disputation, or series of debates, held in Pleissenburg Castle in the summer of 1519.

After Duke George died, the Reformation was introduced in Leipzig in 1539. On August 12, 1545 Luther inaugurated the former Dominican monastery church of St. Paul’s as a protestant university church.

Leipzig was particularly significant in the rise of the Reformation movement, because Luther’s writings and numerous evangelical hymn books were distributed in large numbers from this city of printing shops and publishing houses. In Melchior Lotter’s printing shop alone, between 1517 and 1520, more than 40 works written by the great reformer were published.

In the Grafisches Viertel or Graphics Quarter of the city, the publishing industry flourishes. In 1912, 300 printers and nearly 1,000 publishing houses and specialized book shops, as well as 173 bookbinders, operated in Leipzig.

Leipzig is also known for helping overcome the GDR government. St. Nicholas Church—the oldest and biggest church in Leipzig—rose to fame in 1989 as the cradle of the Peaceful Revolution. Services for peace were and still are held there every Monday, and the following demonstrations at the end of the 1980s toppled the East German government, paving the way for German reunification. In the church, note the interior columns: they are designed to resemble palms.

A few other important sights to see in the city include:

The Monument to the Battle of the Nations—the tallest monument in Germany—was erected to commemorate those who fell during the Battle of the Nations (also known as the Battle of Leipzig) fought against Napoleon’s forces in October 1813.
In the Battle of the Nations, Austrians, Prussians, Russians and Swedes fought —500,000 soldiers in all— the biggest battle ever in world history, marking the decisive turning point in the war of liberation from Napoleonic rule.

(left to right) Battle of the Nations Monument; Porsche Leipzig Headquarters

The Mädler Passage, for centuries the city’s most exclusive arcade (one of 30 arcades in the city), is home to the famous Auerbachs Keller. Serving wine since 1525, this tavern/restaurant was immortalized in Faust by Johann Wolfgang Goethe, the father of German literature.

YOUR SORBET IS SERVED
The café-cum-restaurant Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum is one of Europe’s oldest coffee houses (dating from 1694) and it used to number composer Robert Schumann among its regulars. Today the coffee museum on the third floor of the building contains 500 exhibition items on the history of coffee, the Saxons’ “national drink.”

The Old City Hall, one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Germany, can be admired on the Market Square; it houses the Museum of City History. Inside is Katharina von Bora’s (Martin Luther’s wife) wedding ring and a pulpit in which Luther preached.

Town Hall Museum where a number of Martin Luther artifacts are exhibited.

NIGHTLIFE ABOUNDS
If you happen to be a night person, there is plenty to do in the evening, with all the city’s theaters, concert halls, variety shows and casinos. There are several dining and nightlife districts as well, such as Drallewatsch, Schauspielviertel, Südmeile, Münzgasse, Gohlis and Plagwitz. And when you arrive in one of the many clubs or bars, you’ll learn that often the term “closing time” is not in the vocabulary. There are 1,400 pubs and restaurants in this city, so dessert is not a problem.

And there you have it: a complete Leipzig meal with all the courses. Emperor Maximilan I knew something in 1497 when he granted the town imperial trade fair rights. He knew that one day Leipzig would be a multi-course city, and he was correct.

Auerbachs Keller Restaurant, located below the Mädlerpassage, is the best known and second oldest restaurant in Leipzig, described in Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s play Faust I, as the first place Mephistopheles takes Faust on their travels. The restaurant owes much of its fame to Goethe, who frequented Auerbach’s Cellar as a student and called it his favorite wine bar.

For more information, go to www.leipzig.de, www.leipzig.travel, or www.germany.travel

Hotel Fuerstenhof
An upscale Leipzig tradition

Not far from the main train station in Leipzig is the Hotel Fuerstenhof, a five-star gem with marble, gold-rimmed archways, high ceilings and soaring windows.

At one time a classic patrician’s palace, the 92-room air-conditioned hotel with 12 suites, features myrtle wood furniture, marble bathrooms and a friendly, dedicated staff. The staff is geared to making your stay a pleasant one, knowing your name when you come to the registration desk for questions, and providing service with a smile. I had more than a few special requests from the staff which were quickly and pleasantly taken care of.

There’s an indoor 7,000-square-foot pool area, equipped with saunas, fitness room, solarium, cosmetic and massage stations. Also, the hotel features a nice piano bar area with comfortable, plush seats, and tables, fine dining in the 18th-century style neo-classical Villers restaurant (with a choice of more than 200 wines), a complete breakfast area and a wine bar round out some of the amenities of this hotel.

The hotel was first mentioned in 1770 when Karl Eberhard Loehr, a banker, lived in the palatial home, built between 1770 and 1772. It was called the Loehr Haus. It opened as a hotel in 1889, and underwent a complete renovation and restoration in 1993. It is part of the Luxury Collection of Hotels, one of 62 worldwide luxury hotels.

For more information, go to www.hotelfuerstenhofleipzig.com/en

Ireland’s Friendly People and Pubs Beckon

And grand castles, happy sheep and catchy music aplenty

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

The Emerald Isle is inviting to first-time European visitors for several good reasons.

Because you’re not traveling to continental Europe, the flight time is from 1-1 ½ hours less from the United States. It’s 3,614 miles between Chicago and Dublin, or 3,187 miles between New York and Dublin. From Chicago to Dusseldorf on the mainland it’s 4,217 miles.
The time zone in Ireland is an hour closer to U.S. time zones.
You needn’t speak a foreign language.

These are a few reasons you may want to place Ireland at the top of your “must visit” list, but there are many other incentives, as well. As many as 40 million Americans claim to have Irish blood―that’s 10 times more than the population of Ireland itself.

How do most visitors get there? You could take a cruise ship across the Atlantic, but most people are in a hurry and fly, and that means American, U.S. Airways, Delta, Continental or Aer Lingus (which sometimes has some really low fares, especially in early spring).

DUBLIN’S ATTRACTIONS
Since you’re probably flying into Dublin, where most visitors begin their adventure, you’ll want to spend at least a day there. In fact, I’d recommend two or three days, because there is a lot to discover. Think of St. Stephen’s Green as a center point for your activities. This lush, quiet Victorian garden is located in the main part of the city, yet it is a refuge from the hustle and bustle, and you can always come back to it for solace and relaxation. With ponds, picnicking, wildlife and a playground for kids, it makes an ideal meeting point as well. In the summer, lunch time concerts are given here.

Fanning out from the Green are the National Museum of Archaeology and the National Museum of Natural History. At the first museum, you’ll be transported back to 7,000 B.C. You’ll see examples of Celtic and Medieval art such as the famous Ardagh Chalice, the Tar Brooch and the Derrynaflan Hoard, another old historic chalice. Ireland’s foremost treasure, the Ardagh Chalice, is considered the jewel in the crown of all exhibits there. The beautifully proportioned chalice is the finest example of eighth century metalwork ever to have been found. Standing six inches high, it is made of silver, bronze and gold; the design and decoration indicates technical proficiency of the highest order.

Heading down Nassau Street, you come to Trinity College, the oldest university in Ireland and situated on 40 acres in the heart of the city. Besides strolling the sidewalks around here where you’ll feel like a college student again, you’ll want to see the Book of Kells, a 9th century Gospel manuscript created by Celtic monks. Its lavishly decorated pages in Latin of the four Gospels is a masterpiece of calligraphy and represents the ultimate in Insular illumination. It is definitely worth the trip to see, as is the Long Room of books (215 feet long), which contains more than 200,000 of Trinity’s most ancient volumes. Interestingly, in 1860 the roof of the building was raised higher to accommodate more books. The Long Room is an impressive site, with 14 marble busts commissioned by sculptor Peter Scheemakers lining both sides of the gallery.

TEMPLE BAR AWAITS YOU
On the other side of Trinity and bordered by the River Liffey, is the Temple Bar section of the city, where nightlife is abundant. Bar after bar is crowded into the narrow cobblestone streets here, and more than 50 contemporary art and cultural galleries and studios in this section of the city make up a part of what is called “Dublin’s Cultural Quarter.” On weekends, open markets are held in Meeting House Square nearby as well.

On Grafton Street, the main shopping area, you’ll find Molly Malone’s statue where you can have your picture taken to send back to friends and relatives. Molly was a legendary figure, celebrated in the song Cockles and Mussels, a Dublin anthem. Molly Malone is one of the more famous people from Dublin’s past, but whether she really existed is not known.

She’s certainly one of the strangest icons ever officially commemorated by a city government. The statue, erected in 1987, depicts a woman in 17th century dress that shows abundant cleavage. Molly allegedly sold fish by day and sold her body by night. Though she lived in the 1600’s, the song Cockles and Mussels about her does not appear in any historic record before the 1880’s. The familiar lyric goes:

In Dublin’s fair city
where the girls are so pretty
I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone
As she wheeled her wheelbarrow
Through streets broad and narrow
Crying, “Cockles and mussels, alive alive oh!”

CITY BREWS
Ha’Penny Bridge is Dublin’s oldest pedestrian bridge. Erected in 1816, a toll of half a penny was levied on all users of the bridge until 1919. You’ll also want to see the Guinness Storehouse when visiting and take a tour, and then enjoy a fresh glass of Guinness in the Gravity Bar afterward. Cost is €13.50. The Storehouse is located in a section of town called the Liberties, which lay outside the city walls in earlier times.

In the Smithfield Village area, across the Liffey, is the Old 1780 Jameson Distillery, once considered one of the largest and finest distilleries in the world. You will discover the time-honored secret of how three simple ingredients―water, barley and yeast―combine to make whiskey. And you can end your tour with whiskey tasting in the Jameson Bar. The distillery tour is open seven days a week, and if you’re really into it, you can request a tutored whiskey tasting.

FAMOUS DUBLIN WRITERS
The Dublin Writer’s Museum, which opened in 1991 and is located in an 18th century mansion, offers visitors a fascinating view of famous Irish writers such as Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, Jonathan Swift and George Bernard Shaw. It’s a small but interesting museum that tells the background of these famous people.James Joyce, the author of Ulysses, has his own museum in Joyce Tower at No. 35 North Great George’s Street. The house was built in 1784 for Valentine Brown, the Earl of Kenmare, and is decorated with plasterwork by Michael Stapleton. Restored in the 1980s, the house opened as the James Joyce Center in 1996, and is run by members of Joyce’s sister’s family.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral on Patrick Street is an important Dublin landmark, with writer and satirist Jonathan Swift its Dean between 1713-1747. In 1742, the first performance of Handel’s Messiah was performed here by the combined choirs of St. Patrick’s and Christ Church, just a block away. (Christ Church is the oldest building in Dublin, dating from c. 1030. Inside are rare artifacts, examples of early gold and silverware, and historic manuscripts.)

CAD E’ AN SCE’AL? (WHAT’S GOING ON?)
Many other sights are waiting for the European traveler as well in this city of about 1.5 million. You’ll find the natives very friendly and accommodating. Getting around Old Town Dublin is easy: walking is your best bet.

Maps are available that detail the highlights of the city; the Dublin tourism office is located just past Grafton Street on Suffolk Street where you can pick up free information leaflets and get personal advice on things to do, places to visit and to eat. The tourist office staff speaks seven languages, including English, French, German, Irish, Italian, Polish and Spanish. There are also sightseeing tour buses that will take you around the city. For more information, go to visitdublin.com.
Also, the Dublin tram system, called LUAS, is a state-of-the-art light rail system operating on a Green and a Red line. If you stay close to the Old Town, however, the tram won’t be needed. The Green Line starts at St. Stephen’s Green, and a downtown Red Line stop is at Abbey Street.

The Dublin Pass is a cost-saving card will allows you access to more than 30 of Dublin’s top attractions and more. Go to dublinpass.ie for information.

For those who want a five-star hotel experience, the Shelbourne, a Renaissance hotel, is conveniently located on St. Stephen’s Green, and lives up to its reputation. It’s located just a few steps from Dublin’s sights and shops. Founded in 1824, the Irish constitution was drafted here; the hotel retains its original charm and is an oasis in the midst of the city’s clamor. The hotel features a total of 265 rooms, including seven for the physically challenged.

SOUTH COAST ATTRACTIONS
There are many areas of Ireland that appeal to visitors. But with Dublin as a starting point, let’s drop down the southeast coast to do more exploring.

If you’re driving, you’ll want to use N11, a major highway that runs along the coast to Wexford. Roads in Ireland are fairly narrow, so be aware of this: it can be a daunting experience. This is where a trained bus driver on a group tour comes in handy.

Glendalough, which translates into “the valley of the two lakes,” is about 90 minutes south of Dublin, and is a totally captivating spot. It contains ruins from a 6th century monastery, some of which remains today.

The short history of Glenalough is thus: St. Kevin was a descendent of one of the ruling families of Leinster. As a young boy he went to live at Glendalough, and founded a monastery there which continued to expand for 600 years, but was destroyed in 1398. In its prime, the land included churches, monastic cells and workshops, guesthouses, a health center, farm buildings and homes. Most of the buildings that survive date from the 10th through 12th centuries. The most famous is the pencil thin round tower which is 112 feet high with a base 52 feet in circumference. A cathedral, stone churches and decorated crosses also survive. Take your camera along, as Glenalough is excellent for snapping unique pictures, especially if it’s a bit foggy. A modern visitor’s center features an informative movie about the ruins and its history, and wandering paths in the surrounding valley offer more exploration.

POWERSCOURT HOUSE AND GARDENS
Situated in the picturesque mountains of Wicklow, Powerscourt is a large mansion once owned by powerful families such as the O’Tooles and the FitzGeralds, Earls of Kildare. In 1603, Powerscourt Castle and the surrounding lands were granted to Richard Wingfield, who was Marshal of Ireland (a royal officeholder). His descendants remained there for more than 350 years.

Later the castle was remodeled, creating a magnificent mansion around the shell of the former castle. Large formal gardens, a fish pond, cascading waterfalls, grottoes and terraces all form a striking approach to the mansion. The story is told that Daniel Robertson, a garden architect and a leading proponent of Italianate garden design, suffered from gout and directed his operations from a wheelbarrow, fortified by a bottle of good sherry. When the sherry was depleted, Robertson’s work ceased for the day!

Near the imposing castle is the five-star Ritz-Carlton, overlooking the wooded slopes of Sugar Loaf Mountain. Blending into the countryside, this 200-room, seven-story hotel is ritzy, with a warm Georgian-inspired interior. Afternoon tea, evening cocktails in the Sugar Loaf Lounge, the Gordon Ramsey signature restaurant and a complete Irish pub combine to make a stay here memorable. The hotel’s spa is also available to guests, which is on two floors and boasts a 65-foot long Swarovski crystal-lit swimming pool. There’s also a 36-hole championship golf course as part of the hotel complex.

DUNBRODY SHIP PROJECT
In 2011 the JFK Trust launched its replica of a 19th century three-masted sailing ship, the Dunbrody, that brought immigrants to America. This ship is on display in New Ross harbor; an audio-visual experience, guided tours and a convincing performance of costumed actors brings to life the long, difficult journeys made in the 19th century on this ship. A new visitor’s museum will be ready this year as well.

For a night’s rest in this area, check out the Dunbrody Country Hotel and Spa in Arthurstown. It’s a 1830s Georgian manor amid 300 acres of tranquil parklands, not far from Waterford. This four-star hotel, owned by hospitable Catherine and Kevin Dundon, offers 22 rooms. Master chef Kevin Dundon also has a cooking school here and designs one- and two-day cooking courses―there’s even a week-long master class. You’ll feel rejuvenated after a few days in this setting. www.dunbrodyhouse.com

Dunbrody Cookery School’s Edward Hayden

If you want to get up close and personal to the water and the Irish shoreline, here’s your chance. Hook Head Lighthouse in New Ross has been a guiding light for ships for more than 800 years. There’s a visitor’s center offering guided tours of the 13th century tower, a gift shop, cafe, art classes and picnic areas.

Glass blowers and artisans at the Waterford Crystal factory

At Waterford, a stop at the Waterford Crystal factory is a must. Since 1783, the company that George and William Penrose founded has been making stunning glass pieces with a distinctive, silvery white brilliance, which Waterford Crystal’s artists enhance with deeply-cut ornamentation. It’s said that in all of Ireland, no hands have been more patient, more meticulous, or more blessed with the elusive powers of art, than the hands of Waterford Crystal’s craftsmen. Drinkware, serving accessories and decorative crystal from the Waterford factory is still the customary gift for royalty and heads of state. It’s not inexpensive, but a factory tour will show you the secret of why this glass has been so highly prized for all these years.

LISMORE CASTLE GARDENS
Heading to Lismore, you can visit the beautiful Lismore Castle gardens and gallery. In the Burlington family for more than 400 years, this fairytale castle, originated in 1185, has seen many changes since. Because the Burlington family stills resides there (Lord and Lady Burlington), only the gardens and gallery are open for touring. The gardens are set on seven acres and provide spectacular views of the castle and the surrounding countryside. You might even see Lord or Lady Burlington on the grounds!

When you’re looking for a place to land for the night, you might try this hotel located next to the sea. The Cliff House has been described as a five-star cascading luxury hotel sewn into Ireland’s coastline, overlooking the small village of Ardmore. Thrown in for good measure is the House Restaurant (one Michelin star), serving both Irish and international cuisine This 39-bedroom jewel is tops for either a holiday (as the Irish call it), or it’s perfect as a hideaway to recoup. www.thecliffhousehotel.com

At Kilkenny Castle in Kilkenny, you can take a guided tour of this 12th century structure, originally built for William Marshall, the Earl of Pembroke. With many additions and changes over the centuries, this dark gray castle comprises many architectural styles, seen in the various ornate rooms. You’ll see the Drawing Room, Withdrawing Room (reserved for ladies after dinner), the Picture Galley Wing with a hammer-beam roof structure, the Library with silk damask curtains and the elegant Dining Room, among other rooms. Surprisingly, the Marquess of Ormonde sold the sprawling castle to the people of Kilkenny for the sum of €50 in 1967.

Afterward, stroll over to Kyteler’s Inn in downtown Kilkenny, and have lunch or supper in this fun, quaint restaurant, established in 1324. Look for the story of the original owner, Dame Alice le Kyteler, on the first floor.

FLYING BACK TO DUBLIN
On the way out of Ireland, reserve a room on the last evening at the four-star Barberstown Castle, a short 30-minute drive from the Dublin airport. Situated on 20 acres of flower gardens, this Irish country house has flourished for eight centuries, opening as a hotel in 1971. Its Victorian and Elizabethan extensions have been melded with the original castle battlement of 1288. Since then, Barbertown Castle has had 37 owners, one of them Eric Clapton. The 59-room hotel is now owned by Kenneth Healy, who lives on the property and who purchased it from Clapton (the names of all 37 owners are painted on the exterior doors of the rooms―Clapton’s room is #61).

We’ve just covered Dublin and the south coast of Ireland. There’s more―much more―to see on the the Emerald Isle, but that will have to wait until another time.

CEAD MILE FAILTE (A HUNDRED THOUSAND WELCOMES)
Ireland is welcoming and a friendly place, with old-world charm and more castles than you’d believe possible. The Guinness isn’t too bad, either.

For more information, go to www.discoverireland.com.

York, UK: A Medieval City Ringed With Walls and Featuring Hidden Gems

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author and courtesy York Tourism

While London plays a key role in tourism in the United Kingdom, there are other cities in the U.K. that, while perhaps not as large in size or offering as many attractions, still rank high on the thrill meter.

One of these is York, which is worth a couple of days to explore and get to know. It’s accessible from Manchester Airport, an international hub that sees hundreds of flights each day from around the world. By train from the airport, York is about an hour’s ride.

Let’s take a tour of the walled city of York.

“I was born in York and grew up there,” says actor Judi Dench, “so I have a great fondness for this remarkable city with its winding, cobbled streets and beautiful architecture.”

“The city has evolved over the years, with…a wealth of interesting shops and a vibrant cafe and evening culture,” she continues.

In the 18th century, York was seen by the monied class as an attractive alternative to London, and today many Georgian townhouses and buildings can be seen in the town because of this. At Fairfax House, for example, you can see what’s called the most distinguished 18th century townhouse in Britain.

Likely the first thing to grab your attention in York is the Minster, renowned around the world as the largest medieval gothic cathedral in northern Europe. Taking 250 years to build, it dominates the city, with its central tower rising 200 feet skyward. “…That first glimpse of the magnificent Minster towering above the city will never cease to inspire and move me,” states Dench.

The cathedral, 500 feet in length and 100 feet wide, has the largest concentration of medieval stained glass in Britain. While there, you can also visit the undercroft, treasury and crypts. The church’s collections, open to the public, are a rich time capsule of the Minster’s history. The collection consists of silver, textiles, furnishings, monuments, stone and glass objects.

(left) Roman ruins underneath York’s business district

WALK THE WALLS
“Walking the walls” is a favorite thing for visitors to do. Since Roman times, these walls have helped defend the city, and now add interest as an attraction. Four main gatehouses, or bars—Monk, Bootham, Micklegate and Walmgate—were once used to extract tolls and act as defensive towers. There are a little more than two miles of walls around the city.

A odd thing about York are the snickelways and ginnels, or passages, some quite narrow and obscure. These short cuts conveniently connect sections of the town, and can save a lot of walking. After a day in York, I started using the snickelways like I was a resident.

The main shopping area is traffic-free, meaning the erratic streets are quiet and pleasant to stroll around, day and night. The medieval streets and buildings are beautifully preserved, especially 2,000-year-old Stonegate and Petergate streets, York’s main shopping arteries. These two streets were used by the Romans, leading to a massive Roman headquarters structure which is now occupied by the Minster.

SHAMBLES STREET
Visitors will enjoy reading the names of streets as they wind through the city. Mad Alice Lane, Grape Lane, Swinegate and Coffee Yard all can be found here, as can Shambles, a former street for butchers: you can still see the wide windowsills used by butchers to display their goods, and in some cases the meat hooks remain above the shop windows, as well.

If you like chocolate—and who doesn’t—York might surprise you. It’s been making the delicious treat now for 150 years, and was named Britain’s Home of Chocolate in 2012. It even has a Chocolate Trail that will take you into York’s Chocolate Story shop and museum, where you can mold and decorate your own chocolate bar, York’s Cocoa House where you can enjoy a cup of hot chocolate and Monk Bar Chocolatiers who hand make every blissful piece. Also, the York Kit Kat factory, one of the largest in the world, turns out six million chocolate bars every day.

The Treasurer’s House, which claims the most haunted cellar in York, is worth a visit to hear about royal visits, servant life and see four centuries of interiors and antiques. When the garden is open, you can also enjoy home-cooked meals here as well.

CLIFFORD’S TOWER
While most of York was the result of Roman and Viking construction, the original mound of Clifford’s Tower, with a timber structure at the top, was constructed by the Norman William the Conqueror in 1068 as a statement of his power over the region. The tower is 50 feet tall and 200 feet in diameter with four overlapping circles, resembling a four-leafed clover. The design pattern was unique in England and after being decimated by fire, wind and even water (the castle sunk into the moat causing the walls to crack in the 1350s) the castle’s jailer began demolishing the tower and selling the stone himself.

For those with a technical interest, the National Railway Museum near the railway station is a must, and it’s free. Here is the largest railway museum in the world, boasting a host of record-breakers and history makers, attracting 800,000 visitors annually.

National Railway Museum

It is home to a wide range of railway icons and literally millions of artifacts, from the opulent Royal trains to the record-breaking Mallard. Many of the museum’s collection of more than 300 locomotives and pieces of rolling stock are displayed in the Great Hall. Some of the featured pieces include the Flying Scotsman, famous for being the first steam engine to travel at 100 mph, and the collection of royal trains, including the royal carriages used by Queen Victoria to those used today by Queen Elizabeth II.

Permanent displays in the museum include “Palaces on Wheels.” Based in the Station Hall, this exhibition features royal saloons dating to the Victorian era, giving visitors a glimpse into the sumptuous bedrooms, dining rooms and day saloons that were palaces on wheels.

At York’s Art galley, you can view more than 600 years of British and European art, from 14th century Italian panels to 17th century Dutch masterpieces to Victorian narrative paintings.

Also, the Yorkshire Museum houses some of the finest collections of archaeological and geological treasures in Europe, from prehistoric to medieval times. You can also walk on a Roman mosaic floor or kneel at St. William’s medieval shrine while here. This museum features new, interactive galleries and audio-visual shows.

As the locals like to say, York has many “tucked-away” attractions, including museums, bars and restaurants, interesting shops, peculiar old signs, strange stone figures, gateways and medieval battlements.

York is a fun, history-filled city, with numerous attractions that will interest nearly every age group.

WHERE TO STAY IN YORK
Grays Court in York near the Minster, is probably the oldest continuously occupied house in Britain, and as such, is a special place to stay, if you get the chance. It is built on the site of a Roman legionary fortress.

The staff is small and will likely remember your name after you’ve registered for the night. Grays Court is a family-owned and run country house with seven bedrooms, all filled with antique and contemporary furniture, and you’ll find the atmosphere around Grays Court quiet and friendly. A protected lawn and garden face the rear of the house, and the common areas invite you to wander throughout the house and get to know it.

Grays Court was once owned by the Duke of Somerset, Queen Jane Seymour’s brother, and was visited by King James 1st, James 2nd and the Duke of Cumberland. Sir Thomas Fairfax, Archbishop Robert Holgate and Archbishop Thomas Young have also lived here.

At one time the house was the original Treasurer’s House, commissioned by the first Norman Archbishop of York Minster, Thomas of Bayeux (1070-1100).

James I dined once at Grays Court with Edmond, Lord Sheffield, the Lord President of the North, and knighted eight nobleman in the house’s Long Gallery one evening.

Guests will find breakfast is served in a large open room with good views of the garden, and the wait staff is pleasant and accommodating. In the evening you can curl up on one of the large comfy sofas with a book and a glass of wine in the Long Gallery, or try the quiet Library to relax in.

Located on Chapter House Street, York. www.grayscourtyork.com.

For more information about the city of York, go to www.visityork.org.

Castles, Christmas Markets and Cruising

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger

Taking a river cruise is always a good idea. A river cruise that includes both historic castles and colorful Christmas Markets along Germany’s Rhine River is the best idea ever. So on Thanksgiving Day I happily ignored Black Friday and escaped the pre-Christmas shopping frenzy of the USA to spend a week on the AmaKristina, cruising from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland. Romantic castles and Christmas Markets along the Rhine River ushered in the Christmas spirit for me this year.

The AmaKristina is essentially a floating luxury hotel for 158 guests. Our roomy cabin had a queen-sized bed, private bathroom with shower and double sink, desk, large format Apple screen and keyboard for internet, TV, or movies. Built in 2017, the ship’s hallways and guest suites were filled with Gustav Klimt art prints, and seasonally decorated with lights, Christmas trees, wreaths, garlands, and gingerbread houses. We boarded in Amsterdam, unpacked, and had our first dinner on board. Open seating at each meal encourages mingling of guests.

AMSTERDAM ATTRACTIONS
Fortified with a sumptuous on-board breakfast buffet, including an omelet station and daily vitamin “shot,” we departed the ship for an informative canal cruise, a panoramic city bus tour of Amsterdam with an up-close look at a local working windmill, and free time for exploring. Although there were no Christmas markets in Amsterdam, there were plenty of opportunities for shopping near the central train station, and street entertainment in Dam Square: a saxophone player, giant bubble maker, dancing dinosaurs, and impromptu yoga. Just be sure to watch out for the numerous killer bicycles that demand the right-of-way.

The AmaKristina set sail from Amsterdam in the afternoon, and I had time to explore the ship’s main lounge and bar, massage and hair salon, fitness room, gift shop, and even a heated pool and giant chess set on the sun deck. A cruise overview presented by our cruise director, plus Christmas tree decorating and an evening classical music performance by the three talented string players known as “La Strada” kept passengers entertained. The cruise ships cleverly bring nightly entertainment on and off the ship when stopped at the locks on the river.

COLORFUL COLOGNE
After cruising all morning, we docked in Cologne, Germany, where shuttle buses brought us to our first Christmas Market in Cathedral Square. Although the earliest Christmas Markets in Germany date from the late Middle Ages, the one in the shadow of Cologne’s impressive Cathedral is a relative newcomer, opening in 1995. Under a dazzling canopy of thousands of tiny lights, 150 vendor huts with bright red awnings and brilliant multi-faceted stars displayed handicrafts, comfort foods, gifts of all types, decorations, wooden toys and much more.

Canopy of Christmas lights in Cologne’s Cathedral Square

Cologne Cathedral Square market

HOME OF THE ELVES
A few blocks away in the Altstadt and Heumarkt was an older and much larger Christmas Market called the “Heimat der Heinzel” or Home of the Elves. These were little creatures from a Cologne legend who used to do all the housework until they were annoyed by an inquisitive housewife, and disappeared. I loved this market. Aisles were arranged by theme, and the large wooden huts had Old World, wood-carved details, thick green garlands and costumed vendors. Little “Heinzelmännchen” rode in gondolas above an expansive ice rink. Each souvenir mug of Glühwein (the traditional hot mulled wine so popular at the Christmas Markets) had a different elf pictured on one side, and his particular work specialty described in verse on the other. Cologne boasted three additional smaller markets, but time was too short to visit all of them on this trip.

Home of the Elves’ Market in Cologne

CASTLE DAY ON THE RIVER
The morning cruise from Cologne to the next stop in Rüdesheim passed through the UNESCO World Heritage Rhine Gorge. What a treat to sit in the ship’s expansive lounge with panoramic windows, coffee in hand, gazing at vineyard- covered slopes, picturesque villages, historic castles, and the famous Lorelei Rock, with commentary by the cruise director. This romantic part of the trip alone is a highlight of any Rhine River cruise.

RÜDESHEIM’S CHRISTMAS MARKET OF THE NATIONS
After a gourmet lunch of traditional German specialties, we docked in Rüdesheim, where the “Christmas Market of the Nations” wound up and down the narrow streets of this wine town of about 7,000 citizens. Vendors from France sold mushrooms, lavender and cheese, Tunesia vendors brought wares made of olive wood, smoked salmon came from Norway, furs came from Finland and even the United States was represented with a local vendor offering homemade cookies, Dr. Pepper, Fanta, marshmallows, and Hershey’s chocolate. Christmas choir music piped throughout the market added to the festive atmosphere as shoppers strolled past inviting vendor stalls and village shops. A new discovery at this market was hot mulled Glühbier from Belgium.

(clockwise) Hot lunch in Rüdesheim; Fur from Finland at Rüdesheim’s Christmas Market of the Nations; “Hallo” from the gnomes in Rüdesheim; Placing a phone call to the Christkind in Speyer

Throughout the ship’s seven-day cruise, each day’s program offered passengers quiet, regular and active excursions. Rüdesheim excursions offered by the AMAKristina included wine tasting, a hike, bike or gondola tour through the vineyards. A late night, fun option was experiencing Rüdesheimer coffee – coffee set on fire with Asbach brandy and sugar, topped with whipped cream and chocolate flakes – at Eiscafe Engel on Rüdesheim’s famous Drosselgasse.

THE IMPERIAL CITY OF SPEYER
By noon the next day we docked in Mannheim and could choose a bus excursion to Heidelberg or to Speyer. Having visited Heidelberg several times already, we chose to see the 2,000-year-old Imperial city of Speyer. Here the Christmas Market extended down Maximilianstrasse from the UNESCO World Heritage Speyer Cathedral, the largest Romanesque cathedral in the world. Though smaller than the Cologne Christmas Markets, Speyer’s market had all the requisite comfort foods: Glühwein, grilled sausages, roasted almonds, and even waffles, potato soup and dumplings. Vendors offered wood handicrafts, colorful candles, jewelry, scarves, kitchen gadgets and unique cookie cutters. Especially for children were an ice rink, kiddie car rides and a telephone booth with direct access to the Christkind in Heaven!

Back onboard the AmaKristina we had a tea time treat of traditional Spekulatius cookies and Stollen, while we set sail for our next stop: Strasbourg and Le Petite Alsace in France.

INVITING STRASBOURG AND LE PETITE ALSACE
As with each stop on our route, AmaWaterways provided an energetic and knowledgable guide for a walking tour of the area on the way to the Christmas Markets. This morning we learned about the Alsace region, which changed hands between France and Germany four times in 75 years. The name “Alsace” derives from a German phrase meaning “seated on the Ill.” While our guide led us along the Ill River, past the beautiful half-timbered houses lining both sides, she explained that this charming area was historically the least desirable place to live. It had been the site of fortifications and a prison, the home of executioners and the location of the tanning trade, with its smelly byproducts. Today it is a photographic highlight of any trip.

CHRISTMAS MARKETS WITH A FRENCH TWIST
Christmas Markets first appeared in Strasbourg in 1570, making this German/French town the location of one of the oldest markets in Europe. Although much was similar to the Christmas Markets we saw in Germany, here the food vendors offered toasted baguettes topped with cheese as the warm comfort food, instead of the ubiquitous wursts in the German markets.

The traditional market was near the cathedral, with some vendor huts topped with storks, that famously nest in Strasbourg’s Parc de l’Orangerie. More than 300 vendor chalets filled the historic city center. Entertaining metal sculptures depicting different professions caught my eye, as did the detailed, intricately carved figures for nativity sets. A market area featuring Strasbourg’s service organizations surrounded a towering decorated Christmas tree and grassy area which was perfect for family photos. A small market in Gutenberg Square annually invites vendors from other countries: this year it welcomed Iceland.

GENGENBACH’S GIGANTIC ADVENT CALENDAR
We were back on the German side of the Rhine River by late afternoon, and on a shuttle bus from the AmaKristina to the beautiful village of Gengenbach. A guided tour down Engelgasse led to the Christmas Market which stretched down the main street from the town hall square.

Gengenbach boasts the world’s largest Advent calendar in its neo-classical town hall, where each night one of its 24 windows is opened to reveal a picture by a famous artist. This year’s calendar featured paintings by Andy Warhol. We arrived just in time for the first night’s opening ceremony: a narrated short skit performed by children from the town. After browsing through the market’s matching vendor huts, with hot Glühwein in a mug depicting the town hall Advent calendar, we returned to the ship to be delightfully entertained by a French cabaret singer and her accordion accompanist.

LAST FULL DAY ONBOARD
Shuttle busses from the AmaKristina were the order of the day with options to Riquewihr, France, or to Freiburg and Breisach, Germany. Deciding to aim for German-speaking vendors, we took the second option, and explored the market in the heart of Freiburg’s beautiful old quarter. Traditional craft products, including glass blowing and colorful wooden toys were offered beneath the green and white lights that trimmed the roofs of the more than 130 vendor huts.

Time was too short to see all of the ceramics, candles, hand puppets, amber jewelry and Christmas decorations, but we enjoyed a quick wurst and Glühwein lunch before leaving for Breisach. Unfortunately this town’s tiny Christmas Market was not yet open for business, so after strolling down the pedestrian-only shopping zone, we walked back to the boat dock, to sail to Basel and enjoy the captain’s farewell dinner and our final evening on board.

Early the next morning, with our luggage packed with Christmas Market treasures, we left for home filled with Christmas spirit and with wonderful memories from this romantic river cruise of Christmas Markets and Castles on the Rhine.

TIPS AND FINAL NOTES
An AmaWaterways river cruise makes visiting so many sites along the Rhine extremely easy. You unpack only once in a roomy cabin. Meals are well-planned, complete and delicious, with perfect portions and special dietary options. Wine and beer are included with lunch and dinner. The fabulous coffee bar is open all the time. Special surprises delight passengers as well, such as serving a location’s specialty treats during afternoon tea time, recognizing St. Nicholas Tag by putting treats in passengers’ shoes left outside cabin doors, and providing hot towels and beverages upon re-boarding after cold excursions. The company will cheerfully arrange for your transfers to and from the cruise ship.

The cruise director is the key to having a wonderful time on any cruise, and this AmaWaterways trip had a great one. David Rosell was organized, energetic, accommodating and entertaining.

Most Christmas Markets are open from the beginning of Advent through Christmas, although some larger markets stay open longer, and some smaller ones have limited open hours. Bring euros – most small vendors don’t accept credit cards.

Pack warm layers of clothes, boots and umbrellas. The weather can be chilly and damp during November and December.

AmaWaterways provides a post-cruise option, if you want to extend your trip. This Christmas Market/Rhine River castle cruise offered an excursion to Lucerne and Zurich after disembarkation in Basel. For more AmaWaterways information and schedules, go to: www.amawaterways.com.

If you go: The Mövenpick Hotel Central in Amsterdam is a great place to stay before you board. This new, 4-star hotel is located within walking distance of the train station, the city center and the cruise ship loading docks. A sumptuous breakfast buffet is included with the room, and a knowledgable concierge team can help you plan your free time in Amsterdam before the cruise. For more information go to: www.movenpick.com/en/europe/netherlands/amsterdam.

Amsterdam Mövenpick Hotel Is Restful Haven in Busy City

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

Situated in the bustling heart of cosmopolitan Amsterdam, a city of some 800,000-plus residents, sits a friendly, welcoming beacon for travelers.

The Mövenpick Hotel Amsterdam in the City Center is a 20-floor, 408-room haven of rest and quiet, which has been devotedly serving its guests in the Swiss tradition since 2006. The hotel’s rooms include 20 junior suites and an Ambassador Suite, as well.

With spectacular views of the Eastern Docklands area of the city, and sitting on the banks of the River IJ, the Mövenpick offers Executive rooms on the 19th and 20th floors, which includes access to the Executive Lounge, complete with its own espresso machine.

The hotel, one of the taller structures in the city, is easily seen with its large, bold red letters announcing its presence within sight of the busy Amsterdam Centraal train station, and close to the many river cruise docks that attract thousands of visitors to the city every year.

Overlooking the bay called the IJ and North Sea Canal, the hotel plays guest to many of the river cruises that begin or terminate there. Amsterdam is the second largest Netherlands port after Rotterdam, and the third largest cruise port in Europe, with as many as 140 sea cruise ships and 1,500 river cruise ships docking annually.

Such river cruise lines as AMA Waterways, Viking, Avalon, Uniworld and Tauck use the nearby harbors for docking, thus the river cruise traffic is significant, especially in the summer when the river ship sailings are in full swing. Also, ocean cruise lines such as Holland America, Regent, Royal Caribbean and Carnival frequent the port.

CONVENIENCE FACTORS OF MÖVENPICK AMSTERDAM
Not surprisingly, many of the Mövenpick guests choose to stay at the hotel right before and after their cruises, both for the convenient location and the many amenities that are offered to guests. As an example, you might be offered some of the delicious Mövenpick chocolates in the spacious lobby when you arrive. Or you might want to use the business center where you can check on your plane flight status or print out your boarding pass.

Other hotel amenities include air conditioning, coffeemakers, daily maid service, iron and ironing boards in many rooms, hairdryers, mini-bars in some rooms, all rooms are non-smoking rooms, telephone, voicemail, refrigerator, safe, ATM on site, cable/satellite television and internet access (high-speed wireless for an additional fee, or is complimentary on the executive levels).

The hotel also offers babysitting/child care services, complimentary pickup and drop-off transportation to the central train station, the services of a concierge, crib/rollaway beds, a currency exchange, gift shop, laundry/dry cleaning service, paid onsite parking, room service, wheelchair access to common/public areas and a multi-lingual staff.
In addition, there is a lifestyle studio with cardio vascular equipment, a bio-sauna, Finnish sauna, a foot spa and a relaxation area, and massages are available.

Many business travelers also use the hotel because of its convenience next to the train station and the easy connections to busy Schiphol Airport, which is 11 miles away. The nearby Amsterdam train station with its 15 tracks serves more than 162,000 passengers each day. The hotel’s frequent shuttle service to and from the station allows guests to make easy transfers for local and international trains and also for quick train transfer to the airport.

EXECUTIVE LEVEL PRIVILEGES
Guests staying on the Executive level of the hotel have access to a private lounge area on the second floor stocked with bottled soft drinks, juices and water, along with various snacks which are refilled during the day. At night between 5 and 7 p.m., the lounge features a happy hour complete with complimentary alcoholic beverages and snacks. The special second floor lounge looks out onto the harbor area of the canal, and features large windows, comfortable chairs and roomy tables.

Hotel guests can enjoy meals all day in the Silk Road Restaurant which presents creative international cuisine for up to 220 guests at a time. The restaurant is located on the second floor with a view of the River IJ. Executive Chef Jamie Sharatt and his team prepare all dishes in an open kitchen with live cooking, including a selection of starters, main dishes, drinks and desserts.

From starters like home-made roasted tomato soup or fresh Caesar salad, to Linguine Alfredo and sliced veal (Zürich style), or various varieties of sumptuous steaks, to desserts such as Mövenpick ice cream creations, cheese cake or a cheese platter, the Silk Restaurant is worth a visit. The hotel also has a wide selection of Mövenpick wines to chose from when dining.

The large, multi-menu breakfast is a feast to behold. I am not sure I have ever seen such a wide variety of foods available at any first-class European hotel as here at the Mövenpick.

From any kind of egg creations, and several meat selections including fish and bacon, to about a dozen kinds of breads, rolls and croissants, to a wide variety of delicious fresh and dried fruits, yogurts and juices, the enticing breakfast buffet offers guests an overwhelming selection of foods. I enjoyed the freshly-baked, golden-toasted croissants with various jams and jellies, baked beans, grilled tomatoes, and cereals. Cold menu items include a choice of cut meats and cheese selections. Breakfast begins at 6:30 a.m. every day at the Mövenpick. Guests may special order breakfast omelets or eggs.

SILK BAR OFFERS ITS OWN CREATIONS
The smart Silk Bar is known for its extensive cocktail menu, and features a changing bar menu every day. It even offers its own original cocktail menu, and has a large whisky selection. Patrons can also enjoy a light lunch here, a quick snack, or a cup of Mövenpick coffee.

Helpful concierges are on duty in the lobby to assist Mövenpick guests locate points of interest in the city for sightseeing, modes of transportation, obtaining tickets for plays and museums, guided city tours and other questions that require a knowledgable answer. Looking for one of the city attractions—one of the smallest houses in the city—the hotel concierge quickly pulled out a city map and pointed out how to get there. I noticed later that he was the concierge supervisor, and his photo was on the cover of the printed, four-color map he handed me.

Because of all the city canals, one thing many visitors want to do is take a canal cruise. All you have to do is step out the front door of the hotel and you can embark on one of the many flat-bottomed canal boat tours offered in the city.

The hotel is also one of the most eco-friendly hotels in the city. The hotel uses heat and cold from the outside to help set room temperatures, and the hotel only uses fair trade linen.The hotel is Green-Globe Gold certified.

The Mövenpick, in keeping with the thousands of Amsterdam residents, supports guests who wish to do as the Dutch do, and ride their way through the city on two wheels. The hotel recommends Amsterbike which offers bike rentals, bike delivery, professional cycling tours, skip-the-line tours, as well as combination deals with boat tours, and walking tours in and around Amsterdam. The hotel offers a bike rental service on site.

Also, right next door to the hotel is the Muziekgebouw, a large concert and recital hall, and the most important stage in the Netherlands for contemporary music, offering more than 250 concerts annually.

For business travelers and business meetings, the hotel offers 12 state of the art “flexible” meeting rooms with such names as the Matterhorn, the Zurich, the Paris and the Dubai room.

In our opinion the outstanding Amsterdam Mövenpick in the city center rates a very high four stars, and is definitely passionate about serving its guests.

IF YOU GO….
The hotel is located at Piet Heinkade 111, 1019BR Amsterdam. Phone is +31 (0) 20 519 1200, or email the hotel at hotel.amsterdam@movenpick.com. The hotel’s general manager is Albert Rouwendal.