Dining – Page 14 – European Traveler

Gingerbread Galore!

By Sharon Hudgins
Photos by the author

‘Tis the season when a young elf’s fancy turns to thoughts of gingerbread. Although these sweet-spicy cakes and cookies are popular year-round in many countries of Europe, they’re particularly associated with the winter holidays. Bakeries from Sweden to Slovakia to Switzerland turn out tons of commercial gingerbread products, often packaged in brightly colored wrappings and tin boxes. And home bakers dig through kitchen drawers and recipe files to find favorite cookie cutters and family recipes for their own Christmas gingerbreads.

Although flatcakes made with honey and spices were baked by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, the gingerbreads of northern Europe probably date only from the Middle Ages, when honey was still the main type of sweetener available locally, and exotic, expensive spices such as cinnamon, black pepper and ginger were increasingly being imported from faraway lands in the East. A taste for gingerbread eventually spread throughout Europe, with certain cities becoming known for their own particular types: Strasbourg and Dijon in France, Torun in Poland, Tula in Russia, Aachen and Nürnberg in Germany, Basel and St. Gallen in Switzerland.

MANY VARIETIES
Gingerbread recipes evolved over time and in diverse places. Various kinds of gingerbread were, and still are, made with different combinations of honey, sugar, flour, eggs, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, raisins, lemons, candied orange peel, candied citron, rosewater, rum, brandy, black pepper, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, allspice, cardamom, coriander, aniseed and saffron. Although these baked goods are often referred to as “gingerbread” in English, some of them don’t contain any ginger at all.

The variety of possible ingredients and textures causes some confusion about what “gingerbread” actually is. A cake, a cookie, or a loaf? Hard or soft? Thick or thin? Glazed or unglazed? Decorated with fancy frostings, or with fruits and nuts, or even with expensive gold leaf? At various times in its history, gingerbread has been all of these.

GERMAN GINGERBREAD
In the Middle Ages, the city of Nürnberg became one of the most famous places for making gingerbreads in Germany, where these seductive sweets have long been known as Lebkuchen (or sometimes Pfefferkuchen, when their spiciness comes from black pepper instead of ginger). Records show that Lebkuchen was being baked in Nürnberg as early as the 14th century. Traditionally, the stiff dough was pressed into highly detailed molds made of wood, metal, or terra cotta, which imprinted intricate designs on the Lebkuchen before it was removed from the molds and baked in a hot oven. Nürnberg Lebkuchen contained such costly ingredients, and was of such high quality, that it was accepted as payment for city taxes and given as gifts to nobles, princes, and heads of state.

Over time, as the prices of ingredients fell and the demand for Lebkuchen increased, faster production methods became necessary. The elaborate handmade molds were replaced by less detailed, often mass-produced, molds. Simpler decorations―such as nuts, candied fruit, and sugar frostings―were applied to the tops of many cookies. And the shapes were simplified, too, evolving into the basic human, animal, and geometric forms common today.

In the early 1800s, gingerbread houses became popular in Germany after the publication of the Grimm brothers’ fairy tale, Hansel and Gretel. And during the 19th century, ornately decorated Lebkuchen hearts also became the rage. Covered with fancy designs and romantic sayings made from colored icing, these large heart-shaped cookies were often exchanged between sweethearts. You can still buy them at almost every German festival and special market, including the Christmas markets held in many German cities throughout December.

The Lebkuchen produced in Germany today comes in all sorts of sizes, shapes, flavors, colors and textures: rounds, rectangles, squares, hearts, stars, pretzel forms, St. Nicholas (for Christmas), lucky pigs (for New Year) and rabbits (for Easter). The Lebkuchen dough can be “white” (light colored) or different shades of brown. Some Lebkuchen are also covered with white or chocolate icing, and some are filled with marzipan or jam. Honey Lebkuchen is sweetened only (or primarily) with honey. Oblaten Lebkuchen are cookies with the dough mounded on top of a thin wafer before baking. And delicate, elegant Elisen Lebkuchen are made with at least 25% ground almonds, hazelnuts, or walnuts, and no more than 10% flour.

GINGERBREADS ACROSS EUROPE
You’ll also find similar spicy cookies of different shapes, colors and textures called Printen (in Aachen, Germany), Pfefferkuchen (in Pulsnitz, Germany), Spekulatius (in the German Rhineland), Leckerli (in Basel, Switzerland), Biberli (in the Appenzell region of Switzerland), speculaas Holland, speculoos in Belgium, pepperkaker in Norway, pepparkakor in Sweden, piperkakut in Finland, pebernǿdder in Denmark, pain d’épices in France, licitar in Croatia, mézeskalács in Hungary, perníky in the Czech Republic and Slovakia, pierniki in Poland and prianiki in Russia. Other towns and regions have their own specific names for the many varieties of gingerbreads produced there.

Europeans also use gingerbread cookies as ingredients in other dishes. You’ll find crumbled gingerbread used as a stuffing for pork and for pasta, as a thickener for sauces, a flavoring for soups, a crunchy texture in salad dressings, and a base for many puddings and desserts. There’s even a German-Italian “fusion” dessert called ” Nürnberger Tiramisu”! And for people who just can’t get enough of that sweet, spicy, Christmasy taste of gingerbread, the Belgians have recently invented a gingery, caramely speculoos spread, similar in texture to Nutella, made from crushed gingerbread cookies.

If I’ve whetted your appetite for these European gingerbreads, my best suggestion is to travel there and taste them for yourself. You can also mail order many of them from the websites listed below. Costard, the clown in Shakespeare’s play, “Love’s Labour’s Lost,” had the right idea when he said, “An’ I had but one penny in the world, thou shouldst have it to buy gingerbread.”

Nürnberg Lebkuchen information www.lebkuchen.nuernberg.de/englische_version/index.html

Lebkuchen-Schmidt, Nürnberg
ww2.lebkuchen-schmidt.com/eng_index.php

Metzger Lebkuchen, Vienna
www.lebkuchenmetzger.at/

Lebkuchen-Pirker, Mariazell, Austria
www.lebkuchen-pirker.at/home/index.php?&lang+eng

Kerner Lebkuchen, Mariazell, Austria
www.lebzelterei-kerner.at/index.htm

Lebkuchen-Gandl, St. Wolfgang, Austria
www.lebkuchen-gandl.com/

Appenzeller Biberli, Switzerland
www.baerli-biber.ch/

Basel Läckerli, Switzerland
www.laeckerli-huus.ch/

French-Alsatian Pain d’Épices
www.paindepices-lips.com
www.fortwenger.fr/

Alte Pfefferkuechlerei (small gingerbread museum in Weissenberg,Germany) www.museum.stadt-weissenberg.de/

Speculoos Spread
www.thenibble.com/zine/archives/speculoos-spread.asp

YouTube video about how to make decorated European gingerbread
www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVX5wiv_oMk

American online sources for ordering European gingerbreads
www.germandeli.com
www.germangrocery.com

Lamb Stew Hits the Spot in Ireland

Photos courtesy of Tourism Ireland

County Wicklow is famous for its sheep and wool, and the Wicklow Mountains have been renowned from the earliest times for the native breeds, which are of a distinct type, and have been on the mountains for centuries. The date of origin of the Wicklow Mountain sheep can only be approximated, but one thing is for sure, the Irish have many seasonal, regional and tasty recipes to take care of nature’s providence, including plenty for the less popular cuts.

This recipe is a twist on the typical Irish lamb stew with a few additional flavors thrown in such as basil, oregano, celery, mushrooms and red wine. It comes from Wicklow Lady Fiona Teehan, whose mother is handed a gift of a whole sheep every year in return for some sheep-minding duties by her father. Fiona is manager of Pembroke Townhouse, a superb example of classic Georgian elegance in the heart of Dublin’s Ballsbridge area, just a 10-minute walk from the city center.

WICKLOW STEW
Serves 4
Ingredients:
3 tablesp sunflower oil
1 shoulder of Wicklow lamb, boned, trimmed of excess fat and cut into small cubes
3-4 sticks of celery, chopped into 1 inch lengths
1 onion, finely chopped
4 oz mushrooms, halved
1/2 c. red wine
1 c. vegetable stock
1 tablesp cornstarch
1 tablesp fresh basil, finely chopped (or 1 teasp dried basil)
1 tablesp fresh oregano, finely chopped (or 1 teasp dried oregano)
1 teasp grated lemon rind
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
To garnish: freshly chopped herbs (some or all of basil / oregano / parsley)
To serve: mashed potato (or buttered noodles or boiled long grain rice to your preference)

Method
1. Heat half of the oil in a frying pan. When the oil is hot, add the lamb cubes and fry them, stirring frequently for about 10 minutes until they are well browned. Transfer the meat to a plate.
2. Heat the remaining oil in a casserole. Add the celery, onion and mushrooms and continue cooking over the heat until the onion is just soft.
3. Add the wine to the pan and boil well for two minutes.
4. Blend the stock together with the cornstarch and pour the mixture into the pan.
5. Add the basil, oregano, lemon rind. Season with the salt and pepper. Then, add back the cubed lamb. Mix well with the rest of the ingredients.
6. Cover with a lid or tinfoil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 40-45 minutes or until the lamb is tender.
7. Sprinkle with a garnish of freshly chopped herbs (as above). Serve piping hot with mashed potato, (or buttered noodles or boiled long grain rice to your preference)

Optional: If you like garlic, add four cloves of minced Garlic with the onions.

To freeze: This dish freezes well. Cool quickly and pour into a freezer-proof container or bag. Label and freeze. Do not store in freezer for longer than two months.

For more info, go to Discover Ireland.

The Christmas Markets of Hamburg

Perhaps surprisingly, Hamburg’s Weihnachtsmarkt at the Rathaus in the center of Hamburg is a relative newcomer to the world of Christmas Markets in Germany.

Several years ago the city fathers decided to look for a new concept for its holiday market, and found a creative partner in Bernhard Paul, director of Roncalli’s Circus. With its colorful circus-themed market stalls and entertainment, including a nostalgic carousel and historic fairground organ, the Christmas market at the Rathausmarkt opened for only its eighth year in 2007. In that short time, however, it has become one of the most popular markets in northern Germany, with nearly three million visitors each year.

LEBKUCHEN AND GLUHWEIN ABOUND

About 80 dealers from all over Germany gather to sell their handicrafts and food specialties. Shoppers enjoy the smell of roasted almonds, Lebkuchen and Gluhwein as they stroll through the rows of vendors, who are grouped according to their wares.

One row is filled with toys, including model trains. Handcrafters such as glassblowers, makers of hats or lanterns and amber jewelry are in another aisle. There is a food specialties area that includes cheese from Tirol, Christstollen from Dresden, Lebkuchen from Nurnberg and candy makers in action. Tired shoppers can enjoy genuine German refreshments indoors at the colorful Art Nouveau Viennese café at the market.

Three times each day Santa Claus, in his sleigh pulled by reindeer, flies high over the market to the sound of American Christmas carols –is that Bing Crosby I hear? Standing in a basket suspended under the moving sleigh is the Christkind (Christmas angel who delivers gifts to the children), waving at the crowd in the market below.

A city as large as Hamburg will, of course, have more than one Christmas market to attract visitors.

Of the 12—that’s correct, 12—Hamburg Christmas markets, one of the trendiest is Weihnachtsmarkt Jungfernstieg, which overlooks the beautiful Inner Alster Lake. White is the theme color of this market:
white lights highlight the vendor booths, which are covered by soaring white roofs, and are topped with white star-lit peaks. Open for only its second season in 2007, this unique market boasts an ice-skating rink and an open-air lounge, which supplies warm blankets to customers. Shoppers can find clothes and jewelry along with traditional nutcrackers and food specialties.

MINIATUR WUNDERLAND

If rainy weather limits your time at the outdoor Christmas Markets, take advantage of some of the many attractions that Hamburg has to offer. Miniatur Wunderland is the world’s largest model railway and is housed next to the Elbe River in Hamburg’s warehouse district. The trains run on several different levels of the building, and a full-time paid staff monitors the miniature world.

Allow several hours to enjoy the more than 700 model trains, which run through scenery modeled after Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Scandinavia, and even the Western United States. See a circus in action, cars driving on highways and ships sailing the ocean. See fires break out and emergency trucks speed to the rescue. And then there are the trains—they are everywhere—and they are of every kind, all running as if they were on prototype railroads. And every half hour, daylight becomes nighttime inside this miniature HO scale world. There is an admission, and a nice gift shop.

It will be hard to pull kids away; perhaps dads won’t want to leave, either! Check out this fascinating world at www.miniatur-wunderland.de

BALLINSTADT EMIGRATION MUSEUM

Hamburg’s BallinStadt Museum offers an amazing and detailed look at the history of emigration to America via the port of Hamburg.

The museum is named after Albert Ballin, director of the HAPAG shipping company, who had a 30-building departure city built between 1901 and 1907 for emigrants. The museum is located on this site and housed in three reconstructed Housing Pavilions.

A model constructed beneath the floor and viewed from above through glass, shows the layout of the original departure city. Interactive exhibits tell the emigrants’ stories, and show what daily life was like as they awaited their journey to America. A family research center at the museum offers the opportunity to access Hamburg passenger lists from 1850 to 1934.

Easily reached by public transportation, the BallinStadt Museum shows how the Port of Hamburg became known as the emigrant’s gateway to the world. www.ballinstadt.de

If you’re ready for more shopping, and weather is still dampening the outdoor markets, try indoor shopping at the Europa Passage. Architect Hadi Teherani designed this structure with a glass ceiling and 21 arches, which connects five floors filled with 130 shops and restaurants. Located with a view of the Inner Alster, (one of Hamburg’s lakes), the mall offers modern, upscale shopping in light-filled arcades. www.europa-passage.de

For accommodations within walking distance from the Europa Passage, the Rathausmarkt, and the Christmas market Jungfernstieg, try the Hotel Atlantic Kempinski. First opened in 1909, this luxury hotel next to the Outer Alster served passengers awaiting their departure on ocean liners. Now it is a local landmark, recognized from afar by its white-lit rooftop globe and ladies emblem, which was used in the James Bond film “Tomorrow Never Dies.”

A sumptuous breakfast buffet and beautifully appointed lobby with tea service, offer the traveler warmth and welcome after a full day of rewarding Hamburg experiences.
www.kempinski.atlantic.de

For more information about Hamburg, visit their website at www.hamburg-tourism.de

Christkindlmarkt Nuremberg-Style

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Marilyn and Don Heimburger

When you think of Christmas markets in Germany, Nuremberg usually comes to mind first. It has a very long history and is considered the “queen” of the Christmas Markets.

The Christkindlmarkt of Nuremberg was first called “Kindelsmarkt” in an inscription on a wooden oval box dated 1628.

The main market square between the Schoener Brunnen (beautiful fountain) and the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) is the site of this famous Christmas market. The 180 market stalls with their red and white-striped canvas roofs are arranged in rows and fill the area with the aromas and lights of the holiday season. The popular Christkindlmarkt has been called a “Little Town of Wood and Cloth.”

PRUNE MEN ARE SPECIALITY

Vendors offer the beautiful craft wares and decorations found in many markets. But one special item you can find here are prune men: figures 6-8 inches tall with arms and legs made of dried prunes and heads made of walnuts.

An edible specialty of Nuremberg is its tiny sausages, which weigh exactly 23 grams and are about the size of a little finger. According to legend, they were made small enough to fit through the keyhole of a door, just in case someone was locked out of the city gate after curfew and needed something to eat!

Another treat is Nuremberg’s famous Lebkuchen (gingerbread). Lebkuchen Schmidt ships its goods all over the world, and is available in beautifully decorated tins, even music boxes (www.lebkuchen-schmidt.com.)

Unique to the Nuremberg Christmas market is Christkind, who officially opens the market at 5:30 p.m. on the Friday before the first Sunday in Advent. The Christkind, or Christmas Angel, represents the Christ Child as the one who gives gifts on Christmas, as opposed to St. Nicholas, who delivers gifts into the waiting shoes of good children on December 6.

Every two years since 1969 a young girl is elected by a combination of popular vote and jury selection to represent the Christkind. Strict rules govern the age and height of a Christkind candidate. She must also be a good student, since her many appearances force her to miss school, and she must not be afraid of heights, because she must stand on a balcony near the top of the Church of Our Lady to deliver her market-opening pronouncement!

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS

Nuremberg is understandably proud of its Christkindlmarkt. In order to protect the market’s reputation, war toys are banned, as are decorations of plastic firs, products displayed in cardboard boxes, and canned Christmas music.

A short walk away from the main market square is the Rathausplatz (Town Hall Square) where you can find 14 vendor stalls from Nuremberg’s partner cities offering their unique wares.

In addition to the Christkindlmarkt in Nuremberg’s main market square, a special Kinderweihnacht (Children’s Christmas Market) on the Hans-Sachs-Platz has entertained families since 1999. A 100-year-old steam Ferris wheel, a steam railway and a merry-go-round offer rides. Vendor stalls have lower counters to invite children to see and touch, decorate cookies and candles, and have pictures taken with Santa. Across from the children’s market is the Sternenhaus (Star House), which serves as headquarters for the Christkind and offers cultural programs for children.

One very special market open all year round, but is especially magical during the Christmas season is the Handwerkerhof. Located across from the main train station, the stone and half-timbered structures look as old as the King’s tower and fortification walls that surround them. But the entire little town was built in 1971 as an additional attraction during the Albreacht Durer 500 anniversary celebration. It has remained a year-round attraction highlighting craftsmen who work with pewter, leather, glass, candles, precious metals, gingerbread and dolls.

You can watch bakers make Lebkuchen, shop for tin toys, wood and glass ornaments, have a mug of hot spiced wine, and then eat at the Bratwurstglocklein, a wonderful wood-paneled, low-ceilinged pub with waitresses dressed in traditional dirndls, and food served on pewter plates. Try the tiny sausages each of three ways: cooked with vinegar and onions, smoked and grilled. Served with potato salad, saurkraut and beer, it’s a tradional Nuremberger treat. The Handwerkerhof is open six days a week (seven days a week during Christkindlmarkt) from the middle of March through December 31 (www.handwerkerhof.de.)

Wonderful accommodations for your Christkindlmarkt visit can be found at the Maritim Nuernberg (www.maritim.de.) It is conveniently located just a short walk from the main train station, and across the street from the Handwerkerhof. Another short walk takes you to the main market square and the Christkindlmarkt in the shadow of the Schoener Brunnen.

One more suggestion: before leaving the main market square, look carefully at the Schoener Brunnen until you find the gold ring. Make a wish and turn the ring three times to make your wish come true. Perhaps you will wish to return to this beautiful market again next year!

InterContinental Hotel Prague

Restful haven in a bustling capital

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

The InterContinental Hotel in Prague sits on the banks of the Vltava River in the city’s Jewish Quarter.

This is important because it offers a great view of the city and the Prague Castle and the river’s activities, but it also is convenient to the historical center, as well as transportation. The high-end shopping area called Parizska Street is a few steps outside the door.

I didn’t realize all this when I first spotted the hotel, but soon I realized that location sometimes can be everything. But for his hotel, it goes beyond that. It’s a luxury accommodation on the inside, as well as being centrally located.

OFFERS 372 ROOMS
The hotel offers 372 rooms and suites and another important feature, especially for the business traveler—the Club InterContinental (concierge service, a library, free internet access, copy machine, newspapers and refreshments).

The hotel’s rooms feature goose-down duvets, blackout curtains, Italian marble bathrooms, mini-bar, in-room safe, color television with 47 channels, telephone, voice mail, coffee machine, iron and ironing board and individually-controlled air conditioning.

I found plush towels in my room, fluffy pillows, chocolates at turn down time, bright, cheerful rooms with two comfy chairs and 3.4 ounce bottles of shampoo, lotion, conditioner and shower gel. The bathroom had two hand towels, two face towels and two shower towels. There was plenty of closet space, a storage cabinet and nice plush carpeting. The flat screen television was of the newest model, and the swimming pool was nice.

BREAKFAST: GOOD VARIETY
Breakfast, an important meal for business and leisure travelers alike, featured a large variety of meats and sausages, cheeses, cereals, potatoes, hot plates such as waffles or scrambled or fried eggs made to order, breads and rolls, juices, coffee and tea, and fruit, as well as whole fruit. The breakfast was delicious and there was plenty of it. The wait staff was pleasant and efficient.

The hotel’s staff is multilingual–good when you can’t understand the local language.

The Zlata Praha Restaurant in the hotel serves a wide variety of dishes, including Czech and international cuisine. A Sunday brunch is also offered between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. A second restaurant on the first floor, the Primator, offers excellent views of the river. Duke’s Bar & Cafe offers a pleasant setting for a quiet drink or two, with live entertainment on Friday and Saturday evenings.

A Health club and spa are part of the hotel offerings, with whirlpool, saunas and solariums, as well as five treatment rooms.

To make a reservation, go to www.intercontinental.com/prague or www.icprague.com. The five-star InterContinental hotel is located at Curieovych 43/5, Prague 1, 110 00, Czech Republic. E-mail is prague@ihg.com.