Transportation – Page 5 – European Traveler

Rail Europe: Trendsetter for Land Transportation

By Don Heimburger

In terms of speed, comfort, travel connections and schedules, frequency and rail facilities, the countries served by Rail Europe offer travelers the best land transportation by almost any standards.

With Rail Europe’s newly-designed website now up and running, we interviewed both Frederick Buhr, vice president of eBusiness for Rail Europe and Samina Sabir, public relations manager for Rail Europe.

The European trains of today already seem miles ahead of what the U.S.– or most other countries — offer in terms of speed, comfort and on-time reliability. Would you agree with that assessment, and expound on the differences you see between European rails and those of other countries.
The Swiss Federal Railways and French National Railroads are investing a great amount of public and private funds into a new hi-speed rail infrastructure which has resulted in a faster and more efficient form of train travel in Europe. Due to a high volume of travelers who use the European train network, there is a high frequency of train service that results in greater efficiency and punctuality. Train travel in Europe also allows people to seamlessly travel on multiple rail networks as European countries work together on public transportation. Rail Europe allows travelers to purchase train passes without restrictions that allows them to travel throughout the European continent.

If you could ride any European train for fun, which one would it be and why?
The Chocolate Train in Switzerland. This involves a roundtrip panoramic train journey from Montreux in the Swiss Riviera to Gruyères, home of the Gruyères cheeses, and then onto the Nestle chocolate factory where chocolate sampling is included. The Chocolate Train is included in the price of a Swiss pass.

Name some important upcoming routes where you expect dramatic changes in terms of service, speed or new equipment.
The TGV East in France now allows travelers to ride from Paris to the eastern regions of France faster and more conveniently than ever before. A route growing in popularity is the Paris/Reims journey–in just 45 minutes travelers are transported from the heart of Paris to the heart of the Champagne region.

The Spanish AVE train travels at speeds of 300 km/hour (186 mph) and covers the distance of 550 km (342 miles) between Madrid and Barcelona in less than 3 hours (travel time was previously 4 hours). New high-speed lines have also reduced travel times between Madrid and Valladolid; the journey, which previously took 2 hours, 30 minutes, now takes only 55 minutes. And what was a four-hour journey from Madrid to Málaga, now takes only 2 hours, 30 minutes. The city of Zaragoza is on the Madrid/Barcelona AVE line (1 hour, 18 minutes from Madrid, 1 hour, 29 minutes from Barcelona) and this is expected to be an emerging destination in Spain.

The Thalys train takes just 1 hour, 22 minutes to go from downtown Paris to Brussels, most of the journey made at 186 mph. By 2009, all Thalys tracks will be high-speed, and travel times Paris-Amsterdam (currently 4 hrs 11 min.) and Paris-Cologne (presently 3 hrs 50 min) will be cut to 3 hrs 9 min and 2 hrs 50 min, respectively. Up to 27 trains travel between Paris and Brussels in each direction daily, making the service convenient as well as fast.

In 10-15 years, how will the European rail travel scene have changed?
At Rail Europe we believe that the developments in high-speed rail and the investments being made to continue to develop the rail networks of Europe will make Europe more easily and quickly accessible to all travelers. Day trips from the major cities to smaller towns and villages connected by train will become more popular.

European train travel also offers the time-saving benefit of bringing travelers right into the city center, eliminating the need for airport/city transfers. It is expected that this convenience, along with a growing awareness that trains are an eco-friendly way to travel, will continue to influence a shift from air traffic to rail.

What is the fastest train right now on Rail Europe tracks?
The TGV in France runs at speeds of up to 200 mph and currently holds the world record for the fastest train.

For a first-time rail traveler in Europe, what can they expect when traveling on, say, an ICE train, the Eurostar and a regional train?
All German Inter City Express (ICE) trains connect all the major German cities such as Frankfurt, Hamburg, Stuttgart, Munich, Cologne and Berlin. All trains feature comfortable amenities and cutting-edge services, including reclining seats with built-in tables and video screens, an integral audio system, notebook and laptop connections, as well as cellular-friendly zones that allow for undisturbed service.

Eurostar takes you seamlessly from city center to city center within Belgium, France and the UK, as well as provides connecting services to more than 100 destinations. Business Premier class, which is the highest level of service, offers reclining seats and power outlets at each seat giving business passengers the freedom to work in comfortable surroundings. It also offers a choice of full service “at-seat” dining with champagne and wine and an “Express Breakfast” option. All 1st class cars for Leisure passengers offer comfortable seating, complimentary magazines/newspapers and the “at-seat” dining includes wine and hot and cold refreshments.

Regional trains are not high-speed trains and make more stops at more stations along the journey. At least one regional train journey is advisable, especially for the first time leisure traveler; it is a very real experience and has a certain air of romance to it. Buffet cars are available on most regional trains and offer sandwiches or hot and cold snacks.

Let’s say I wanted to fly to Frankfort and then travel by train to Passau and on to Vienna. What kind of travel times and service for this route would I find on your new website?
You can choose a train which connects in Wein (Vienna) or choose the fastest train which is direct from Passau to Vienna – see example below:

TRAIN 21Fastest

10:33AM
Passau Hbf,
Germany

1:22PM
Wien Westbahnhof,
Austria

2 hr 49 min

I’ve heard there are a number of “Scenic Trains” available for shorter, fun excursions. Which ones are most popular and why?
One very popular scenic train is The Glacier Express that connects the world-famous resorts of St. Moritz and Zermatt. Rail Europe offers a Glacier Express Tour which includes a Swiss Card with three transfers of rail travel, two nights accommodation in 3-star hotels (w/breakfast) and one night each in Zermatt and St. Moritz.

RAILTEAM AFFORDS ‘SEAMLESS’ TRAVEL

According to Buhr, Railteam (www.railteam.eu), a new venture, will make traveling on the European rail network easier and more seamless. Buhr says it will help “shrink Europe.”

It is a collaboration between Europe’s leading high-speed rail operators, currently DB (Germany), SNCF (France), Eurostar UK LTD (UK), NS Hispeed (Netherlands), ÖBB (Austria), SBB (Switzerland) and SNCB (Belgium), as well as their high-speed subsidiaries Thalys, Lyria and the DB/SNCF cooperation between France and Germany, with more train operators possibly joining in the future.

Access to the Railteam network is easy with interconnections at city center stations and Ffst local transfer services to and from departure points.

Unlike airports, when you travel with Railteam there are no lengthy boarding procedures, which means no lines. Swiftly on-board and settled in your reserved seat, travelers are able to work on their laptops, read, eat or relax.

Buhr also says that the European Union supplies large amounts of money to help the high-speed rail infrastructure budget for Europe, which allows more construction of new trackage and rail facilities throughout the continent.

Buhr is interested in hearing from passengers about how the new Rail Europe website works for them.

Fred Buhr, Vice President eBusiness, Rail Europe

Fred Buhr began his career with Rail Europe in 2000 to start up EuroVacations.com, the online one-stop shop for European vacation packages. In 2003 he became Rail Europe’s Director of Online Marketing, where he initiated the SEM and SEO strategies to grow market share. He currently holds the position of Vice President eBusiness and is in charge of eCommerce and online marketing. Fred was involved in leading a project dedicated to creating the newest version of the company’s website, RailEurope.com. He has extensive experience in the online travel industry and was responsible along with a business partner for creating one of the first full-service online agencies in Europe. Educated in Strasbourg, France, Fred also attended the Paris Business School where he earned a degree in International Business Relations.

Samina Sabir was educated in Ireland, and began her career in the retail/fashion industry. She joined Rail Europe in 1993, working in the Sales Department dealing specifically with Rail Europe National Accounts. In 2008 she became public relations manager for Rail Europ

Happy to See You in Belfast

By Carol Price Spurling
Photos by the author and courtesy Belfast Welcome Center

The first time I visited the Emerald Isle more than 20 years ago I steered clear of troubled Belfast. But I’m older and wiser now, and Belfast, too, has grown up, transformed from a self-absorbed, divided town into an extroverted and welcoming world-class city.

Belfast offers Victorian charm in every quarter and has retained the best of what Ireland is famous for: warm hospitality, atmospheric historic and cultural sites, and easy access to the lush unspoiled countryside. In Belfast, they’re glad to see you, not just your wallet, and what a difference that makes.

BELFAST HIGHLIGHTS
West Belfast’s Shankill and Falls neighborhoods saw most of the “Troubles” that erupted in the early 1970s. The Peace Walls that separate them are still standing, but visitors are welcomed on both sides and the practice of customers being searched before entering a store or office was retired years ago. For those interested in an insider’s view of Belfast’s political divide, Coiste Political Tours (www.coiste.ie/p_tours.htm) offers guided tours by Republican ex-political prisoners. Or, take a taxi tour to see wall murals and other relics from the bad old days (West Belfast Taxi Association, www.wbta.net).

The center of Belfast, Donegall Square, features Belfast City Hall (www.belfastcity.gov.uk), an embellished stone edifice built in 1888 as a monument to Belfast’s bright future.

All metro buses lead to the bustling square, also home to literary gem Linen Hall Library (www.linenhall.com). In this old linen warehouse, transformed into a library in 1788, visitors can access the cozy library’s unique archives such as the Northern Ireland Political Collection and the C.S. Lewis Collection. Enjoy the library’s tranquil wood-paneled ambiance and a view of City Hall by taking a tea break in the upstairs café.

A horse-drawn carriage strolls past the Ulster Transport Museum

On Fridays and Saturdays the oldest Victorian-era covered market in Ireland, St. George’s, fills up with local shoppers intent on finding a bargain or tracking down the best fresh food in the region (www.belfastcity.gov.uk/markets). The Saturday market is devoted to food. You won’t go away hungry, with 250 stands offering everything from oysters to Irish cheeses to seaweed tapenade to tapas to sausages in curry sauce. Look for locally made “Belfast in a box” chocolates that celebrate Belfast landmarks, accompanied by an illustrated booklet (www.citycentres.com).

Everyone knows where the Titanic met her end but did you know she was born in Belfast? The city’s proud shipbuilding heritage is still obvious with the huge yellow cranes in the Harland and Wolff shipyard –- nicknamed Samson and Goliath — towering over Queen’s Island and the Titanic Quarter on the city’s eastern edge.

(left) Sampling seaweed at St. George’s Market

Belfast celebrates its past with the Titanic Made in Belfast Festival every March (www.belfastcity.gov.uk/titanicfestival), when free bus tours of Queen’s Island are offered by the city on Saturdays and Sundays.

My personal favorite from the tour: the inside of the design room at Harland and Wolff’s offices, where draftsmen labored under a cathedral-like arched ceiling to draw the ship’s plans.

DO YOU NEED A CAR?
Although Ireland and Northern Ireland aren’t famous for their extensive rail networks, between trains, buses, and taxis you can get anywhere you need to go in the greater Belfast area and environs without having to rent a car –- or drive on the left. Coach tours and trains also run directly north to Portrush, with convenient connections to Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, and Bushmills Distillery. Along the northern and southern shores of Belfast Lough, rail service is frequent and affordable, so getting to top attractions just outside Belfast, like Carrickfergus Castle (www.ehsni.gov.uk/carrick.shtml) or the must-see Ulster Folk and Transport Museum (www.uftm.org.uk/) is easy peasy. Day return tickets are offered at 1/3 off the standard rate if you leave after the morning rush hour, and families can get special ticket deals too (www.translink.co.uk).

But to see some of Northern Ireland’s diverse natural beauty and historic architecture (Environment and Heritage Service, www.ehsni.gov.uk/other-index/places.htm), a car will be very helpful. Most recommended is to make a day of driving north along County Antrim’s Causeway Coastal Route, where the craggy cliffs and wild sea spray on one side is balanced by charming villages and green pastures dotted with tranquil sheep on the other. Giant’s Causeway — a stunning outcropping of columnar basalt — can be busy during the tourist season but has been kept remarkably uncommercialized. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for the best light at this geological wonderland (www.causewaycoastandglens.com).

Another lovely drive is west through the Fermanagh Lakelands, home of Belleek pottery, and National Trust gem Castle Coole (www.fermanaghlakelands.com).

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Celebrity chefs Paul and Jeanne Rankin have put Belfast on the culinary map with Cayenne Restaurant (www.rankingroup.co.uk) and Roscoff Brasserie. Up and down the Golden Mile on Dublin Road, foodies will be spoiled for choices of great pubs, cafés, bistros and restaurants.

Chef Michael Deane runs Northern Ireland’s only Michelin-starred eatery at Deane’s Restaurant (www.michaeldeane.co.uk); his newest venture is the contemporary bar and grill Deanes at Queens, located in the Queen’s University Common Rooms.

Coffee addicts never fear, Belfast baristas know what they’re doing. You can’t go wrong visiting any one of the seven Clement’s coffee shops, where coffee drinking is practically a spiritual pursuit, and the creamy hot chocolates are served in a large bowl.

(left to right) Dining at one of Chef Michael Deane’s Belfast restaurants; Steak and Guinness pie is an Irish specialty

WHERE TO STAY
In downtown Belfast itself, a famous landmark is the 4-star Europa Hotel (www.hastingshotels.com) conveniently located just in front of Great Victoria Street rail station and the Europa Buscentre. Head concierge Martin Mulholland will make sure you get everything you need, even if you’re not as famous as some guests who’ve stayed there, like Bill Clinton, Julia Roberts and Elton John.

For a more secluded getaway try the 5-star Culloden Hotel in Holywood, overlooking Belfast Lough (www.hastingshotels.com), or The Old Inn in picture-perfect Crawfordsburn (www.theoldinn.com), both within easy reach of the city.

For less expansive budgets there are dozens of guestshouses, B&Bs, self-catering holiday apartments, hostels, and budget hotels both in Belfast and in neighboring communities. Some are chic, some charming; choose according to your mood.

The Premier Inn hotel (www.premierinn.com) boasts a great central location and is spanking new to boot. The Ash-Rowan Town House (tel. 9066 1758) offers a choice of nine gourmet breakfasts, with a side of historic significance: the Ash-Rowan was once the home of Titanic designer Thomas Andrews.

If you get out into the Fermanagh Lakelands and wish you could stay, check out Belle Isle Castle (www.belleisle-estate.com), outside Enniskillen near Lisbellaw. The old stables and coach house have been transformed into comfortable holiday rentals, with a variety of outdoor activities available, as well as day-long cooking classes taught by Irish chef Liz Moore. You can even rent the castle for a group stay, or a small wedding.

WHEN YOU GO
If you’re planning a trip to Belfast and Northern Ireland, be sure to visit the Belfast Welcome Centre website, www.gotobelfast.com. Like the office itself located at 47 Donegall Place in the city center, it is user-friendly, multi-lingual, and comprehensive. Be sure to pick up copies of their excellent themed city guides.

The Northern Ireland Tourist Board website is www.discovernorthernireland.com. Another free publication to pick up: Belfast In Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com). Published every couple of months, it always has the most up-to-date happenings, complete with maps of the city.

Ghent: From Fallen Angels to Hard Candy to the Great Butcher’s Hall

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

From the year 1000 to about 1500, Ghent, Belgium, was said to be one of the most important cities in Europe. It was larger than London, and only Paris was larger in size.

The city was ruled by rich merchant families, from whence came its great wealth. Today, Ghent is still a town rich in history, color and great food and beer. It also helps visitors that as many as 120 new location signposts have been installed to guide tourists to the most important spots in town.

(left) The three towers of Ghent

Walking near the city center, you’re bound to discover features of the city that will amuse or interest you. Stolling along a street not far from Ghent’s impressive Castle of the Counts, I run across a small shop sign that reads, “The Fallen Angels.” The shop is devoted to old things. I like old things.

I hesitate to go in, perhaps not wanting to become one of those things the proprietor’s shingle suggests, but the more I study the front window, the more I determine it’s not only safe to walk in, but intriguing. Intriguing because of all the things that owner Isabelle Steel has gathered over the last 30 years or so for her re-sale shop.

“I started collecting things when I was 16 years old,” she explains. “My father was a painter,” she says, in helping to decipher how she came to appreciate colorful images.

PACKED WITH IMAGERY
Her very small, quaint shop is packed with imagery in the old kitchen tins, the religious paintings, the thousands of postcards, the picture albums from as early as 1886, the old manufacturer catalogs, and the posters, dolls, toys and trains that pack the place.

Two floors of “fallen angels” material line the walls, the drawers, the flat surfaces of the shop. There is no more room for additional fallen angels. Every cabinet, every inch on the wall has been crammed with attention-getting merchandise.

A sign on the second floor, which is like a small mezzanine and a few steps up from the main floor, reads, “Not more than 3 persons on second floor.” If it could even hold that. Isabelle’s website reads, “For those who require a little bit of nostalgia, this is the place to visit. Here you will find old postcards, devotion cards, old dolls, bears, old toys, tin cookie jars, etc…”

A talkative, friendly person, Isabelle makes customers feel at home in her store, chatting up her goods and keeping an ear to customer conversation that would lead her to a big “fallen angels” find in the future. “A number of my buying customers have something to sell, as well,” she says.

Isabelle and her daughter Ganesha have shops next to each other. Isabelle’s shop has been open for 23 years, and her daughter’s re-sale shop about five years.

Both shops are located in de Jan Breydelstraat nr. 29-31, next to the Castle of the Counts and the Korenmarkt. The Design Museum of Ghent is also located on the same street. For more information, go to www.the-fallen-angels.com.

BELGIAN HARD CANDY ANYONE?
There’s more to Belgian confectionery than chocolate—delicious though it is. For traditional Flemish candy, visit Temmerman (Kraanlei 79)–about eight generations of family members have been making this hard candy. Most popular item is the “cuberdon,” or raspberry nose (red nose filled with sugar), but the tiny shop is stuffed with more than 600 other varieties of sweet stuff. Other goodies include wippers (butter caramel with vanilla sugar), mokken (biscuit with anise) and katrienspekken (hard candy treated with baked sugar).

Another speciality shop is Tierenteyn-Verlent (Groentenmarkt 3, www.tierenteyn-verlent.be), which sells natural mustard made to a centuries-old recipe, and therein lies a tale: The first great evolution in making mustard took place in the region of Dijon where a farmer tried to crush the mustard seeds with a stone. This didn’t work because there was too much oil in the seeds that prevented the machine from working. He poured a bucket of water on the seeds and found out that mustard seeds had to be wet instead of dry to crush them.

This information was brought to Ghent by a soldier of Napoleon’s army who was discussing the mustard principle with an inhabitant of Ghent, Petrus Tierenteyn, who overheard this and decided to start making mustard himself. But instead of yellow seeds used in France, he used dark ones, like in most Germanic countries.

The shop was opened in 1790, and the first products they sold were herbs and groceries. In 1842 Petrus installed a steam-powered machine to give power to the mustard mill. From that time, the shop has been owned by the same family.

BUTCHER’S HALL
In Ghent’s medieval Groot Vleeshuis Butcher’s Hall (Groentenmarkt 7) next to the River Leie, large wooden beams on the interior of the roof show the strength of the building, and from these beams hang Ghent’s special Ganda hams…they look good enough to eat, and you can sample their ham and other specialties in this old hall. There is no fee to walk in, and the building is wheelchair accessible. The Butcher’s Hall is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The hall contains a restaurant called the Promotiecentrum voor Oost-Vlaamse Streekproducten where you can sample East Flemish dishes.

If you’re at Butcher’s Hall, you’re also at the heart of this city of 250,000, and during warm weather, many of the thousands of local university students gather around the Graslei and Korenlei, the old trading harbor, which is now filled with tour boats. In many scenes of Europe, this view along the river, showing many of the old trading houses of the free boatmen and the grain harvesters, is a classic. Another good viewing area of this scene is from St. Michael’s Bridge.

MORE TO SEE
Other top views of Ghent include the Castle of the Counts, an imposing fortress built in 1180. The Gravensteen (the Dutch name for the Castle of the Counts) was built by the counts of Flanders who had castles built in the principal cities of their rule. Because they had to maintain law and order, they moved continuously from city to city and thus had a castle in cities where they wanted to stay for a while. The castle in Ghent is the only one that survived the centuries more or less intact.

The Gravensteen was constructed by Fillips of Alsasse, who was the count of Flanders between 1157 and 1191. He took part in one of the crusades and died during the siege of Akko in the Holy Land. The opening in the form of a cross, above the main entrance gate, proves that he had taken part in a crusade when the castle was built. Next to the castle lies the Veerleplein (Veerle Square), the place where public executions took place.

Another attraction is St. Bavo’s Cathedral in the historic center, the oldest parish church. Astonishingly, it features 22 altars, and the rococo pulpit is a combination of beautiful marble and oak. At the Old Belfry, a dragon scans the horizon, and is perhaps one of the most impressive belfry towers in Flanders. Together with the St. Nicholas tower and the cathedral tower, it dominates the medieval center of the city. The architects were Jan van Aelst and Filips van Beergine. The tower was completed in 1338, when the bells were rung for King Edward II. At the top corners of the towers stone soldiers keep watch (they are copies and only one original is preserved elsewhere).

THE TOWN HALL
The Town Hall at Botermarkt 1 features a rather flamboyant style of Gothic architecture on one side, and a more reserved Renaissance style on the other side. Inside, the same form holds true, with many different styles from different years.

Other attractions in Ghent include the Castle of Gerald the Devil, a 13th century fortress which has been used as a knight’s house, an arsenal, a monastery, a school and a bishop’s seminary. In 1623 it was even a house for the mentally ill.

And if you have a bit more time, visit the House of Alijn, a former house of worship, the Carmelite Friary (which has been restored) and Church, and the Augustine Monastery, founded in 1296.

A new brewery just opened in Ghent as well, with European Traveler a guest on opening night, along with Ghent Mayor Daniel Termont. The Gruut Brewery at Grote Huidevettershoek 10, offers tastes of their delicious beer at the bar within the brewery confines. Mayor Termont is justifiably proud of finding space for the new establishment in his growing city.
www.gruut.be

Where to stay while in Ghent? I stayed at the very convenient Marriott Hotel at Korenlei 10, right in the heart of the historic center and next to the river. It’s next to all the attractions. The hotel features 138 rooms and 12 suites. The glass dome with the large bar-lounge Poppi serves as a cozy meeting place. The hotel’s restaurant is the Korenhuis.
www.marriottghent.com
info@marriottghent.com

Ghent is a city of surprises. Only Ghent residents may know about the “graffiti street,” but that’s another surprise in this city you won’t want to miss.

For more information, go to www.visitgent.be or www.visitflanders.us.

Spotlight on Lucerne

Lucerne, Switzerland is a great city for pedestrians. A walk around Lucerne, a city of only 57,500 people, is invigorating and beautiful, with the majestic Alps at your doorstep.

Founded as a small fishing village on Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstattersee) the city (at 1,430 feet), is the focal point of the region, and the most populous city in central Switzerland.

The city is called “the essence of Switzerland” and the “Festival City” with numerous events such as the World Band Festival, Mozart Festival and the Lucerne Festival. There are numerous bridges in the city, with the Chapel Bridge the most famous, built circa 1300 as part of the city’s fortifications.

The Musegg Wall with its nine towers was built in 1400 after the Battle of Sempach and today it is considered the longest and best preserved rampart walls in Switzerland.

A ride on the many beautiful lake steamers is a must to enjoy the surrounding countryside. Boats leave right from a dock downtown across from the train station (Bahnhof). While in Lucerne, walk through or stay at the 101-year-old historic Palace Hotel and ask for a lakeside room.

While you are in Lucerne, stop by the Swiss Transport Museum (www.verkehrshaus.ch) and look at all the restored trains, planes, and other forms of transportation. If you have a full day each, also see Mt. Rigi (www.rigi.ch) and Mt. Pilatus (www.pilatus.ch), two spectacular mountains each obtainable by hiking or cog railway. You can take boats, trains or drive to the base of each mountain.

For more information on Lucerne, go to www.luzern.ch.

Venice: Queen of the Adriatic

by Kristi Nelson Cohen
Photos by author

One thousand five hundred years of recorded history, and the magic of Venice, Italy continues to captivate our hearts and please our artistic eye.

Venice was built on the water, and this love-hate relationship has challenged the city from her beginnings. She reaps the rewards of the sea (salt, fish, trade and now tourism) but suffer from this same sea lapping at her front steps, eroding the foundations of this architectural marvel. Venice is a beauty, simply fascinating and mysterious, she is the “Queen of the Adriatic!”

Venice was founded in 421, a result of residents of the Veneto (now, northern Italy) who were fleeing the wrath of the Goths. These Goths systematically looted and destroyed cities en route to Rome. The refuges set up villages in a marshy lagoon, on tiny uninhabited islands, where they were safe from invasion. This settlement became known as Venice.

BYZANTIUM LINKS
Due to its location on the sea, trade links with Byzantium were created, exporting salt, and importing exotic spices and fabrics from the Orient. Ships were able to dock right at the city’s front steps, and Venice began to grow in importance and wealth.

Although known as a trade center, Venetian merchants wanted to capitalize on the tourist traffic of Christian pilgrims traveling from Europe to Jerusalem. In 828 two brave merchants traveled to Alexandria, Egypt where they stole the body of Saint Mark, the evangelist. A massive cathedral dedicated to Saint Mark would be built, placing Venice on the map for Christians.

The first cathedral completed in 832, was built of wood, and, sadly, burned in 976. A second cathedral was built, and then torn down to make room for a third, massive, brick, marble and stone structure.

Construction on Saint Mark’s Basilica began in 1063 and was consecrated in 1094. This is the very cathedral whose intricate glass and gold mosaics, hand-carved stone pillars and impressive domes welcome visitors today.

Saint Mark’s Cathedral frames the western end of the Piazza San Marco. The Correr Museum (partially housed in the newest wing of the square called The Ala Napoleonica -built by Napoleon in the 18th century) stands on the eastern end of the square. Once completed, this building framed in the piazza.

DRAWING ROOM
After building his new wing, Napoleon Bonaparte said “Now, this is the most beautiful drawing room in all of Europe!” The Piazza is open to the sea on one portion of the Southside, adjacent to the Doge Palace, where two massive marble columns stand at the original entrance to the city.

These two columns were erected in 1172 but originally stood at Constantinople. Atop one column is a carved statue of a winged lion (the symbol for Saint Mark) and atop the other, is Saint Theodore with an alligator (Venice’s earlier Patron Saint.)

Today visitors to this magical city built on the water, arrive via the Ponte della Liberta, a two and a half mile long bridge from the mainland. The original bridge, built in 1846, accommodated train travelers only, but an auto bridge adjacent was completed in 1933.

When arriving in Venice by train, passengers disembark at the Santa Lucia Train Station, built in the mid 19th century and remodeled in the 1950’s. Don’t make the mistake of getting off the train at the Venice mainland station, as it is an expensive cab ride to Venezia.

BREATHTAKING VIEW
The train station’s front steps open up to a breathtaking view of the Grand Canal. The San Simeon Piccolo church (1718-1738) with its green copper dome, sits directly across the canal from the station. It is here, a visitor realizes, just how unique this city is, as you watch all the boats busily traversing the waterways.

There are Vaparettos (water buses) carrying visitors, locals and commuters around the city. There are trash boats, UPS boats, grocery delivery boats, personal boats and, yes, the famous graceful and elegant black gondolas with gondoliers sporting their time-honored black-and white-striped shirt and wide-brimmed straw hat.

All commerce and travel around Venice depends on these waterways. Venice is built of 117 tiny islands, connected by more than 400 walking bridges and more than 150 canals. There’s only one small area of Venice that is even connected by the Ponte della Liberta for auto traffic, parking and drop-off.

A visitor to Venice can explore the tiny streets boarder the small canals, without the distraction of noisy scooters and fast driving Italian automobiles. The city consists of a labyrinth of tiny streets and canals, and exploring these areas away from the primary tourist stops is calmingly quiet, romantic and simply enchanting.

THREE MILES WIDE
It’s safe to walk in Venice, and getting around is easier than you might think. Yes, you can get lost, but watch the street signs pointing to landmarks like the train station (Ferrovia), Saint Mark’s Cathedral or the Rialto Bridge, or even the Grand Canal, which will help you find your bearings. The entire city is less than three miles wide, and getting away from the most popular tourist sights will lead a visitor to explore this city’s numerous historic cathedrals, museums, parks and palaces.

The Vaparetto (water bus) is an excellent way to see the city. An all-day ticket (12 Euros) allows you on and off passage for a 24-hour period. Multiple day (3 and 7) or single excursion tickets are also available. There are Vaparetto stops all around the island and down the Grand Canal.

The Vaparetto routes also take passengers to the lagoon islands of Murano (known for Venetian glass) and Burano (known for its colorful houses and lace making). From the train station, take Line #1 or #82 for a leisurely two mile ride down the Grand Canal, as it snakes its way through the middle of Venice.

Lining the Grand Canal are impressive palaces, that offer a glimpse into life as it was from the Renaissance time to Casanova’s day. Remember, access to these palaces was primarily by water, so the highly-decorated front entrance was always along a canal, rather than the sidewalk in the rear.

PINEWOOD PILES
How could these early residents build such impressive structures on a swampy lagoon island? Pinewood piles were driven 25 feet into the solid clay ground before building work began. These pilings were closely packed, free from oxygen which inhibits decay.

Above the pilings came brick and then stone creating damp-proof foundations. Mortar on the exterior of buildings is a special Venetian style, which is porous enough for moisture to evaporate. (Keep in mind, the canal tides rise each day and canal boat traffic causes waves to lap onto these foundations.) Of course, there is decay, but it all adds to the beauty, history, the weathered Bettina.

Everything in Venice is worth a picture! A camera is a must to record your memories, but most importantly take, the time to stop at one of the many outdoor cafes, where you can sit in the sun, sip an espresso, listen to the water and immerse yourself in this historic time capsule. It’s a memory you will never forget! ET

Kristi Nelson Cohen is the owner and operator of Bella Italia Trips, leading guided tours to Italy. She has visited Venice numerous times.

WHERE TO STAY IN VENICE
Hotel Gardena 3 STARS
www.hotelgardenavenice.it
Phone: 39-041-220 5000
This hotel is conveniently located near Piazzale Roma (auto taxi and bus service for the airport). The hotel is only a 5 minute walk from the train station on a small and relatively quiet canal. This is a small hotel (14 rooms) with an exemplary staff.

Hotel Principe: 4 star
www.hotelprincipevenice.it
Phone: 39-0410220 4000
This hotel is conveniently located adjacent to the train station (to the left northeast) and this former palace hotel borders the Grand Canal. This is a larger hotel with numerous amenities and a full-service restaurant and piano bar.

Both of these hotels have easy access to Vaparetto or private water taxi service. To purchase multiple day Vaparetto tickets or the Venice Card, (combination Vaparetto and Museum admission) log onto www.venicecard.com.

To see a complete time table of rail schedules in and out of Venice: Venzia Santa Lucia, log onto www.raileurope.com.

For travel tips, packaged trips to Venice and photos, log onto www.bellaitaliatrips.com.