History – Page 25 – European Traveler

Magdeburg: State Capital of Saxony-Anhalt and the ‘City of Otto’

From an historic Cathedral to a Green Citadel and a Millennium Tower, this city is thriving

Magdeburg Cathedral ©www.AndreasLander.de

By Don Heimburger
Photos courtesy of the author, German National Tourist Office and Magdeburg Marketing

The Elbe River cuts through the heart of Magdeburg, offering this historic German city an idyllic landscape and picture-perfect views through a camera. But the city has seen its share of severe destruction over the centuries, such as in the Thirty Years War and World War II.

Today, this city of 240,000 in central Germany has rebounded nicely and combines its important and long history with new architecture, innovative cultural events and green spaces to make it an appealing attraction for tourists.

Aerial view of Magdeburg on the Elbe River

MAGDEBURG CATHEDRAL
The town’s huge cathedral is a “must-see” and is the largest church building in this part of Germany. Surprisingly, the Magdeburg Cathedral can be traced back as early as 937, when Emperor Otto the First founded a monastery dedicated to St. Maurice. In 955, the church building was extended before becoming the cathedral of the established bishopric of Magdeburg in 968. Otto the First had a number of high quality pieces of antique art shipped to Magdeburg from northern Italy to the cathedral. These included columns made of purple-red porphyry, marble and granite, many of which still provide finishing touches to the architecture of the cathedral today.

When Emperor Otto died in 973, his remains were brought to Magdeburg Cathedral, where he was buried in a stone sarcophagus. In 1207, the Ottonian cathedral was damaged in a city fire. Archbishop Albrecht II then began construction on a new Gothic cathedral, which was consecrated in 1362. The cathedral’s 341-foot-high west towers were completed in 1520.

Today, visitors to Magdeburg Cathedral can see the rich interior stone work which displays impressive architecture. The building is also full of unique and internationally renowned original exhibits representing nearly all periods of art history, including spolia from the building’s Ottonian predecessor, the original tomb of Emperor Otto I and his first wife Edith.

In addition, there are Romanesque bronze grave markers, early Gothic sandstone sculptures including the famous figures of the “Clever and Stupid Virgins,” the carvings on the choir stalls of the canons dating back to the 14th century, and Renaissance paintings, as well as 20th century art such as the famous war memorial designed by Ernst Barlach. The cathedral, which became protestant in 1567, is now the seat of a Protestant bishopric and home to members of a congregation in the city center.

Monastery of Our Lady

MONASTERY OF OUR LADY
Said to be the “pearl of the Romanesque Road,” the Monastery of our Lady in Magdeburg is considered the oldest surviving building in the city.

The unique well-house, magnificent barrel-vaults and sublime monastery church with its slender towers comprise an architectural marvel which is the centerpiece of all Romanesque buildings in Saxony-Anhalt. The structure holds both the Magdeburg Art Museum and the Georg Philipp Telemann concert hall. Archbishop Gero of Magdeburg ordered the erection of the building in 1017-18. However, nothing remained of the original construction, and it was Archbishop Werner (1063-1078) who arranged for the reconstruction which was finally completed in the 12th century by the Premonstratensian order.

The rotunda with its pointing cones, resembling a monk’s tonsure, is a remarkable architectural feature of the eastern wing. Together with its 32 arcades, the rotunda forms an ensemble considered one of the most amazing and interesting structures in European monastery architecture. After 1220, the monastery church was vaulted in early Gothic style. Also deserving a special mention is a collection of sculptures ranging from medieval to contemporary in the museum of the monastery. The surrounding area includes a sculpture park created in 1989.

St. John’s Church is Magdeburg’s oldest parish church, first mentioned in 941. The western section of the church, which features a late Romanesque design, and the Gothic hall church, have both been preserved. A monument of Martin Luther and the crypt of the Otto von Guericke family can be found in front of and inside the church.

The history of the church was marked by many changes: St. John’s fell victim to many city fires and was destroyed when General Tilly’s army invaded Magdeburg in 1631. However, the citizens never tired of rebuilding the church. St. John’s Church left its mark on history when an important and far-reaching event took place: on June 26, 1524, Martin Luther held a famous sermon on right and wrong justice in the greatly overcrowded church, whereupon all parishes of the city center converted to Protestantism, as laid down in the annals of Magdeburg.

Today St. John’s is open to the public and has become a popular venue for a wide variety of events.

Hundertwasser’s Green Citadel ©www.AndreasLander.de

GREEN CITADEL OF MAGDEBURG
One of Magdeburg’s most eye-catching attractions for visitors is also one of the last architectural masterpieces designed by the artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. The Green Citadel of Magdeburg is located among a mixture of Baroque facades and examples of modern design and provides the Breiter Weg with a landmark structure and a burst of colorful culture.

This architectural retail/apartment building has been the subject of much discussion since it was constructed in 2005. It was the last building Hundertwasser designed before his death. The artist said the building was an “oasis for humanity and nature within a sea of rational houses” at the heart of the “concrete desert” of Magdeburg.

(left to right) Science demonstration at Millennium Tower; Millennium Tower

To explore the green of Magdeburg, visitors also want to investigate Elbauenpark. The park, which covers an area of 222 acres and was awarded the title of Germany’s second most attractive park in 2005, is home to many attractions that visitors can explore.

Since being created, the unique park has gained its place as one of Magdeburg’s most important landmarks. It is home to the Millennium Tower (the world’s tallest wooden construction of its kind), Lake Stage, Butterfly House and a number of playgrounds, sports areas, pieces of art, themed gardens and other attractions.

The park is home to a wide range of activities and facilities for sports fans, including golf, skating, rock climbing, hiking, biking, a high-rope park and even a toboggan run.

TOWN HALL OF MAGDEBURG
The Town Hall of Magdeburg dates to the 12th and 13th century, with the oldest remains in the vaults which form part of today’s Ratskeller restaurant. Pelt dressers, tanners and dealers in hides and skins met here in the long hall to trade and stock their goods. After the turmoil of the 30 Years War, a two-story sandstone town hall building was erected in Dutch Renaissance style including Italian Renaissance architecture, and in the 19th century it underwent a number of changes and extensions.

In January 1945, the Town Hall was completely destroyed during an air raid, but reconstruction work on it began in 1965, and it was rebuilt and restored according to its original blueprints. The hall features bronze doors designed by Heinrich Apel and carved with historical figures and stories from the city’s past as well as features an impressive bell carillon with four octaves. The carillon is played on market days and also for concerts.

(left to right) Colorful street of buildings on Otto-Richter-Strasse; Magdeburg Town Hall with Statue of Otto I (912 – 973), Magdeburg, Germany. Otto I, or Otto the Great, was the founder of the Holy Roman Empire, reigning as German king from 936 until his death in 973.; Tram system in Magdeburg

NUMEROUS ART VENUES
Today Magdeburg features numerous museums, art galleries, theaters and performing venues including the AMO, a multifunctional complex for shows, concerts and conferences. There is also the Stadthalle Magdeburg, the city’s civic hall. The hall was constructed in the style of the Neues Bauen modern architecture movement in 1927 for use as a showplace on the occasion of the German Theatre Exhibition. It has hosted a wide range of events such as classical concerts, theater performances, musicals, revues, ballets, galas, sports shows and rock and pop concerts.

Magdeburg features miles of bike paths—this one is near the Elbe River.

MAGDEBURG ZOO
Magdeburg Zoo is located at the heart of Vogelgesang Park, a natural and garden landscape that covers 47 acres. The zoo features 835 animals representing 176 different species. The man-made savannah landscape in the zoo covers an area of 215,000 square feet; the Savannah Viewing Point enables visitors to enjoy a panoramic view over the Africa area and the Water Bird Pond.

Magdeburg was the site of the 2016 German Travel Mart, attended by 1,500 participants from all over the world. Editor/Publisher Don Heimburger was on hand and filed this report about the green city of Magdeburg.

Traveling in Time Through Bingen

Photos courtesy Germany TourComm

Bingen, Germany, is renowned as the gateway to the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, an official UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its breathtaking landscapes, medieval castles and quaint country towns, the valley is the quintessence of a romantic and picturesque setting. The fully reconstructed Klopp Castle is scenically set atop the Kloppberg in the heart of Bingen. The town’s most famous landmark, the so-called “Mouse Tower,” situated on a small island on the River Rhine, is approximately 1,000 years old.

Bingen’s Rhine embankment is more than where water meets land: it is an historical site of significance, gateway to the Upper Middle Rhine Valley and a UNESCO World Heritage site. With transformation of the grounds into a magnificent cultural embankment, the banks of the River Rhine have been given a new look. Together with its natural, architectural, horticultural and cultural attractions, the embankment invites visitors to enjoy the mixture of culture, nature and recreation. The cultural embankment is a combination of scenery, playground, open-air stage, park, museum and gallery.

BINGEN MÄUSETURM (MOUSE TOWER)
There are historical records and legends about the tower on the small island in the Rhine near Bingen. The Romans built a small defensive fortification here and during the period of the Franks it went into disrepair. Only when Hatto II took over the leadership in Mainz in 968 and ruled over Bingen did the tower awake from its long slumber. In 1298 the tower was part of the customs system involving Ehrenfels Castle.

(left to right) Klopp Castle; Mäuseturm

KLOPP CASTLE
Klopp Castle houses the main administration of the town and the office of the mayor. The hill was once part of a defensive belt surrounded by a wall, in which the small town of Bingium was located. In 355 AD the fortification was a victim of the Alemannen.

It was not until the middle of the last century that the merchant Ludwig Cron from Cologne began reconstruction; in 1897 the castle was placed into the possession of the town of Bingen.

SAINT MARTIN BASILICA
The basilica of St. Martin is built on the foundations of a Roman temple. It is here that visitors get an insight into the history of Bingen. The Romans built a temple on this site in the years before Jesus’s birth. The basilica was first mentioned in 793 in a list of gifts of the Abtei (abbey) in Lorsch. A place of worship of special beauty awaits the visitor.

ROCHUS CHAPEL
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe went on an annual pilgrimage to Rochus Hill. In 1889 lightning struck the Rochus Chapel, just after elaborate restoration work had been completed and the resulting fire destroyed everything apart from the walls. On the foundations of the former Baroque building a three-nave late Gothic church was built with an exterior choir. That is what is seen today.

DRUSUS BRIDGE AND BRIDGE CHAPEL
One of the oldest stone bridges in Germany is the Drusus Bridge in Bingen.

Bridges have a long tradition at the mouth of the River Nahe. The first was built a decade before the birth of Jesus. A special commando unit blew up the bridge in March 1945 before the approaching Allied troops could reach it. Today Drusus Bridge plays an important part in the appearance of the town.

(left to right) Drusus Bridge ceiling detail; Museum; Stefan George portrait

STEFAN – GEORGE MUSEUM
One of the most famous German poets, Stefan George, was born in Bingen-Büdesheim. This museum traces his life in the Stefan-George-Haus in the so-called “Haferkasten,” an impressive half-timbered house from the 18th century.

For more info, go to www.tourcomm-germany.com/en

Leipzig on a Platter

This city is a multi-course meal for visitors

By Don Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger and Leipzig Tourism Office

If you were to spoon out Leipzig and put it on a plate, you’d discover a salad, a main meat course, vegetable course, a sorbet interlude and a delicious dessert.

I’d designate the salad course as the city’s unusual green belt at the Auenwald; the meat course is the art, architecture and music; the vegetable course Martin Luther and the Peaceful Revolution; the sorbet interlude is this town’s love of coffee; and the dessert is the city’s zest for living and its nightlife.

The city of Leipzig in central Germany, population 500,000, has a colorful history stretching back more than 800 years, and many events have shaped this former East German city. The city’s people and several major historical events have fashioned this town, and made it what it is.

SORBS FIRST SETTLED HERE

Sorbs first settled here in the 7th century, establishing a trading post known as Lipzk or “place near the lime trees.” After Leipzig was granted a town charter and market privileges around 1165, it quickly developed into an important center of commerce.

Maximilian I decided to award Leipzig imperial trade fair privileges in 1497, which helped turn the city into one of Europe’s leading trade fair centers, and it remains so today. Following the world’s first samples fair held in Leipzig in 1895, the city remained one of the global trading hubs until World War II put a hold on that.

It’s hard to believe, but Leipzig has a floodplain forest that runs straight through its center, one of the largest of its kind in Europe. Consisting of eight square miles of trees, every year more trees are planted, and the green space is enlarged. A variety of protected plants and animals are found here, including a rare butterfly species.

This “salad area” or greenbelt is easy to spot on a roadmap, with a large green area running north to south through the city. Four streams also flow through the city. Another part of the city that has been “greened up” is the Leipzig Zoo, where tropical Gondowanaland just opened. This lush section of the zoo, larger than two football fields, allows visitors to come into close contact with the tropical rain forests of Africa, Asia and South America. It features 40 exotic animal species and approximately 500 different plant and animal species, and more than 17,000 plants started their journey in nursery gardens in Thailand, Malaysia and Florida to create this tropical environment.

The Alte Börse, built in 1678-87 by Christian Richter, was originally used as a trading floor for merchants.

MAIN COURSE: ART-ARCHITECTURE AND MUSIC
As Leipzigers are fond of saying, for the young and creative Leipzig is no longer an insider’s tip. Word has spread that the city’s working and living conditions are just right, and three universities with an artistic or cultural profile, as well as Leipzig University, constantly feed the pool of ideas. Leipzig is known for its vibrant arts, music and festival scene; this place not only appeals to artists and actors, but is also becoming a trendy destination for leisure travelers.

Leipzig’s dynamic art scene enjoys an excellent reputation worldwide. Interestingly, a former cotton mill, Spinnerei, in the trendy Plagwitz district, is home to a number of galleries and studios. Formerly the largest cotton mill in continental Europe, Spinnerei now has the highest density of galleries in Germany. In this old factory complex are 80 artists, 14 galleries and exhibition spaces which house creative professionals like architects, designers, craftspeople, retailers and printers.

Artist and professor Neo Rauch of the New Leipzig School, whose paintings combine his personal history with the politics of industrial alienation, reflects on the influence of social realism. Hollywood star Brad Pitt recently purchased one of his works.

The GRASSI Museum of Applied Art, with its world class collection, opened as Germany’s second museum of applied arts in 1874. It is considered one of Europe’s leading museums of arts and crafts. The high point of the year within the GRASSI museum’s special exhibition is a trade fair for applied art and design, an international forum of contemporary applied art and experimental design.

Then there’s another part of the Grassimesse, the Designers’ Open, which is a well-established independent design festival. An extensive program including lectures, workshops, movies and fashion shows complete the fair.

In 1996 the Leipzig Fair’s new exhibition complex opened, featuring trailblazing architecture, spacious avenues and the stunning Glass Hall at its core.

THE CITY OF MUSIC

If you go to Leipzig, a visit to St. Thomas’s Church is a must, since it is the home of the world-famous St. Thomas Boys Choir and where Johann Sebastian Bach was employed for 27 years as organist and choirmaster.

His grave can be seen in the chancel. Motets are performed every Friday and Saturday by the choir, and there are concerts in front of the statue of Bach outside in July and August. The Bach Museum is located opposite the church.

Another regular musical highlight is the Sunday recitals at Mendelssohn House. Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy used to live in the building, which now contains the only museum dedicated to the composer.

There are two additional important centers of music in Leipzig: the Leipzig Opera House and the Gewandhaus Concert Hall.

The Gewandhaus Orchestra, dating back more than 250 years, regularly performs in both venues. The Opera House is the third oldest civilian music theater stage in Europe. And Schumann House is dedicated to the memory of Robert Schumann, one of the greatest composers of the 19th century Romantic era.

Leipzig also hosts several music festivals, large and small, including the International Bach Festival, the A Capella Festival, the Leipzig Jazz Festival and the Mendelssohn Festival.

MARTIN LUTHER AND THE PEACEFUL REVOLUTION
Our vegetable course includes reformer Martin Luther, who was known to come to Leipzig to face the Catholic Church hierarchy to explain his ideas about Christianity and indulgences. Martin Luther, who lived in nearby Wittenberg, stayed in Leipzig on no less than 17 occasions. His most important visit was for his participation in the Leipzig Disputation, or series of debates, held in Pleissenburg Castle in the summer of 1519.

After Duke George died, the Reformation was introduced in Leipzig in 1539. On August 12, 1545 Luther inaugurated the former Dominican monastery church of St. Paul’s as a protestant university church.

Leipzig was particularly significant in the rise of the Reformation movement, because Luther’s writings and numerous evangelical hymn books were distributed in large numbers from this city of printing shops and publishing houses. In Melchior Lotter’s printing shop alone, between 1517 and 1520, more than 40 works written by the great reformer were published.

In the Grafisches Viertel or Graphics Quarter of the city, the publishing industry flourishes. In 1912, 300 printers and nearly 1,000 publishing houses and specialized book shops, as well as 173 bookbinders, operated in Leipzig.

Leipzig is also known for helping overcome the GDR government. St. Nicholas Church—the oldest and biggest church in Leipzig—rose to fame in 1989 as the cradle of the Peaceful Revolution. Services for peace were and still are held there every Monday, and the following demonstrations at the end of the 1980s toppled the East German government, paving the way for German reunification. In the church, note the interior columns: they are designed to resemble palms.

A few other important sights to see in the city include:

The Monument to the Battle of the Nations—the tallest monument in Germany—was erected to commemorate those who fell during the Battle of the Nations (also known as the Battle of Leipzig) fought against Napoleon’s forces in October 1813.
In the Battle of the Nations, Austrians, Prussians, Russians and Swedes fought —500,000 soldiers in all— the biggest battle ever in world history, marking the decisive turning point in the war of liberation from Napoleonic rule.

(left to right) Battle of the Nations Monument; Porsche Leipzig Headquarters

The Mädler Passage, for centuries the city’s most exclusive arcade (one of 30 arcades in the city), is home to the famous Auerbachs Keller. Serving wine since 1525, this tavern/restaurant was immortalized in Faust by Johann Wolfgang Goethe, the father of German literature.

YOUR SORBET IS SERVED
The café-cum-restaurant Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum is one of Europe’s oldest coffee houses (dating from 1694) and it used to number composer Robert Schumann among its regulars. Today the coffee museum on the third floor of the building contains 500 exhibition items on the history of coffee, the Saxons’ “national drink.”

The Old City Hall, one of the finest Renaissance buildings in Germany, can be admired on the Market Square; it houses the Museum of City History. Inside is Katharina von Bora’s (Martin Luther’s wife) wedding ring and a pulpit in which Luther preached.

Town Hall Museum where a number of Martin Luther artifacts are exhibited.

NIGHTLIFE ABOUNDS
If you happen to be a night person, there is plenty to do in the evening, with all the city’s theaters, concert halls, variety shows and casinos. There are several dining and nightlife districts as well, such as Drallewatsch, Schauspielviertel, Südmeile, Münzgasse, Gohlis and Plagwitz. And when you arrive in one of the many clubs or bars, you’ll learn that often the term “closing time” is not in the vocabulary. There are 1,400 pubs and restaurants in this city, so dessert is not a problem.

And there you have it: a complete Leipzig meal with all the courses. Emperor Maximilan I knew something in 1497 when he granted the town imperial trade fair rights. He knew that one day Leipzig would be a multi-course city, and he was correct.

Auerbachs Keller Restaurant, located below the Mädlerpassage, is the best known and second oldest restaurant in Leipzig, described in Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s play Faust I, as the first place Mephistopheles takes Faust on their travels. The restaurant owes much of its fame to Goethe, who frequented Auerbach’s Cellar as a student and called it his favorite wine bar.

For more information, go to www.leipzig.de, www.leipzig.travel, or www.germany.travel

Hotel Fuerstenhof
An upscale Leipzig tradition

Not far from the main train station in Leipzig is the Hotel Fuerstenhof, a five-star gem with marble, gold-rimmed archways, high ceilings and soaring windows.

At one time a classic patrician’s palace, the 92-room air-conditioned hotel with 12 suites, features myrtle wood furniture, marble bathrooms and a friendly, dedicated staff. The staff is geared to making your stay a pleasant one, knowing your name when you come to the registration desk for questions, and providing service with a smile. I had more than a few special requests from the staff which were quickly and pleasantly taken care of.

There’s an indoor 7,000-square-foot pool area, equipped with saunas, fitness room, solarium, cosmetic and massage stations. Also, the hotel features a nice piano bar area with comfortable, plush seats, and tables, fine dining in the 18th-century style neo-classical Villers restaurant (with a choice of more than 200 wines), a complete breakfast area and a wine bar round out some of the amenities of this hotel.

The hotel was first mentioned in 1770 when Karl Eberhard Loehr, a banker, lived in the palatial home, built between 1770 and 1772. It was called the Loehr Haus. It opened as a hotel in 1889, and underwent a complete renovation and restoration in 1993. It is part of the Luxury Collection of Hotels, one of 62 worldwide luxury hotels.

For more information, go to www.hotelfuerstenhofleipzig.com/en

Prague’s Beer Taverns — A Czech Tradition

By Sharon Hudgins
Photos by the author

Many people consider Czech beer to be the best in the world. The Czechs think so, too: they’re the biggest consumers of beer on the planet, drinking an average of 161 liters (42.5 gallons) per person annually (about 30% more than their beer-loving neighbors next door in Germany).

Prague is famous for both its architecture and its beer.

The Czechs prefer to drink their beer on tap, in local taverns, fresh from the barrel, not from bottles or cans. “Cans are for sauerkraut,” they say. Another Czech saying emphasizes the importance of the taverns: “The brewmaster brews the beer, the innkeeper makes it great.”

Prague’s oldest tavern, U Fleku, was founded in 1499.

BEER TAVERNS IN PRAGUE
Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, has long been known for its beer taverns, some of which date from the Middle Ages. They’ve always been the haunts of workers and students, as well as those writers, artists and revolutionaries who preferred the classless camaraderie of the humble taverns to the social and intellectual pretensions of the city’s more elegant coffeehouses.

Before the Velvet Revolution of 1989, some of the beer taverns in Communist-era Prague were known as places where tourists (and spies) from the West could rendezvous with people from the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe, who were allowed to travel to Czechoslovakia but could not go to Western Europe or the United States. Of course those same taverns also attracted agents of Czechoslovakia’s secret police, who spied on the “suspects” from East and West meeting over mugs of beer in the smoke-filled rooms. Back then, some of Prague’s public taverns seemed like settings for a John le Carré novel.

After 1989, in the new capitalistic Czech Republic, some of those beer taverns cleaned up their grungy interiors but kept their traditional ambience. Others went completely glitzy-modern. A few old, defunct brewery taverns were brought back to life, and new microbrew pubs opened, too.

(left to right) Sign for the St. Norbert brewery in the Strahov district of Prague;
Entrance to the St. Norbert brewery;
Interior of the St. Norbert brewery, with a display of the different beers on tap.

Today Prague, a metropolis of 1.2 million people, has hundreds of beer taverns, from well-known hangouts in the central part of the city to little neighborhood pubs patronized only by locals. Prague’s classic beer taverns are also good places to eat, offering traditional Czech dishes like grandmother used to make, at reasonable prices that won’t break your budget.

U FLEKŮ
Prague’s oldest, best known, and most touristy tavern is U Fleků (At Flek’s Place), which dates back to 1499. Today, U Fleků’s famous strong dark beer is still brewed on the premises, attracting hordes of beer-lovers from around the globe.

The building’s rather plain exterior is distinguished only by the large gilded ironwork clock, the tavern’s symbol, on the front. Inside you’ll find several “Old World” rooms with dark wood paneling, vaulted ceilings, stained-glass windows, and beams painted with barley and hops motifs. Part of the building surrounds two open-air courtyards used as beer gardens in warm weather.

The food is decent and moderately priced. The multilingual menu includes roast duck with sauerkraut and dumplings, beef with sour cream sauce and bread dumplings, goulash with bacon dumplings, smoked pork with sauerkraut and potato dumplings.

Pork with sauerkraut and dumplings or sliced braised beef with bread dumplings and sour cream sauce are specialties at U Dvou Kocek.

U Fleků seats a total of 1,200 people in its various dining areas, and it’s often packed in peak periods. In tourist season, go there in mid-morning or mid-afternoon if you want to find a seat. The tavern also features live music, an “Old Prague cabaret” in the evenings, and a brewery museum for serious students of the suds.

Drawing Pilsner Urquell beer from the tap at U Dvou Koček.

U MEDVÍDKŮ
U Medvídků (At the Little Bears) is an old historic tavern, recently renovated, where beer has been served since 1466. Today’s tavern retains the vaulted ceilings of the original structure in several rooms and features an open-air beer garden, too.

The wood-paneled restaurant has an extensive, multilingual menu of Central European dishes, including a game menu (in autumn) of venison, wild sheep, wild duck and pheasant accompanied by red cabbage, potatoes and dumplings. Many of the hot and cold appetizers are portioned large enough to make a light meal in themselves: try the “Medvědí tlapky,” the tavern’s own version of “devil’s toast” with a piquant meat mixture on top; or four slices of fried rye bread with house-made beer-cheese spread. The “Čertovo kolo” (“devil’s wheel”), is a delicious plate-size potato pancake topped with a spicy mixture of meat and vegetables.

The tavern serves Budvar (original Budweiser) beer on tap, as well as semi-dark Oldgott and very strong X-Beer from the new microbrewery upstairs, the smallest brewery in Prague, established in 2005. There’s also a cabaret section, a small museum, and a shop selling several kinds of beer and beer paraphernalia.

U RUDOLFINA
Many locals consider U Rudolfina, near the Rudofinum concert hall, to have the best Pilsner Urquell beer in Prague. They also consider it to be a “real” Czech beer tavern, which hasn’t made any concession to the rampant tourism that has overtaken central Prague during the past two decades. Most of the people drinking there are Czechs.

Czechs enjoying their beer at U Rudolfina.

Beyond the nondescript exterior, just inside the front door you’ll find a small, simple, wood-paneled room with a small bar. Downstairs is a larger area, just as plain in decor, and as smoky and noisy as the little room upstairs. Way in the back is a separate dining room set aside for non-smokers.

In addition to the excellent beer, U Rudofina serves some of the best beer-tavern food in town. Start with a basket of “topinky,” slices of dark rye bread fried on both sides, sprinkled with salt, and accompanied by whole cloves of garlic for you to rub on the bread, as much or as little as you like; or a plate of “beer cheese,” a mound of soft cheese with mustard and chopped onions on the side, which you mash together with your fork and spread on fresh bread. The main dishes emphasize meat—beef, pork, sausages, chicken—and are very well prepared, large portioned and reasonably priced.

Reservations are recommended because this is such a popular place—and well worth visiting for an authentic, no frills, Prague beer tavern experience.

Typical sign for a Prague beer tavern and restaurant. Many signs are in English to attract foreign customers.

RECOMMENDED PRAGUE BEER TAVERNS
U Fleků, Křemencová 11, Prague 1, www.ufleku.cz. Open daily 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

U Medvídků, Na Perštýné 7, Prague 1, www.umedvidku.cz. Open 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

U Rudolfina, Křížovnická 10, Prague 1. Open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

For current reviews and ratings of more than 60 Prague beer taverns, see www.praguepubs.co.uk.

Traveling in Northern Ireland

My heart is warm with the friends I make,
And better friends I’ll not be knowing;
Yet there isn’t a train I wouldn’t take,
No matter where it’s going.
Edna St. Vincent Millay, “Travel”

Northern Ireland is one place you don’t want to miss as you travel around Europe. The country’s capital, Belfast, is a charming city known for being the location where the famous Titanic was built.

It’s also home to political murals that reflect the “The Troubles”—the conflict that has defined the country’s contemporary history. A little further outside of the city you can see picturesque views of the countryside as well as beautiful cliffs overlooking the sea.

Here are some top experiences you should have on your bucket list when visiting Northern Ireland.

LEARN ABOUT SHIPBUILDING IN THE TITANIC BELFAST MUSEUM
Made popular by the 1997 epic film, the widespread history of the Titanic makes this attraction one of the most popular in the city. The self-guided museum takes guests through a series of galleries where you can learn about the RMS Titanic, which was originally built in Belfast by shipbuilders Harland & Wolff. The museum goes well beyond the ship’s building however, and touches on its launch, its maiden voyage, the tragic sinking and its aftermath. However, it’s important to note that as this is one of the most popular attractions in the city, Independent Travel Cats advises getting your ticket in advance to avoid waiting in line.

STROLL AROUND THE BELFAST PEACE WALLS
The conflict known as “The Troubles” was a trying time in the city of Belfast. The violence between the unionists and nationalists resulted in 3,500 deaths and 50,000 injuries. During the 1970s, a Peace Line was created which separated the conflicting sides from each other. However, human spirit and kindness also prevailed. Save the Children’s Northern Ireland 1971 report details how children and mothers from both sides of the Peace Line would interact with each other in a friendly and relaxed way, with no sign of animosity. These small interactions weren’t enough to stop the growing conflict, however, and the Peace Walls was erected. This was to prevent violence from erupting between the two sides.

Now, decades later, the walls are painted with colourful murals on either side. Each side depicts the sentiments of the community, and gives a snapshot of the culture and history that runs through the town. One way of exploring these murals is through strolling around and taking your time with each piece. However, if you want a more guided experience, another option would be to take a Black Cab tour. Jump in a black cab and drive around the different murals and points of interest along the Peace Wall. While you’re traveling around, a local guide will tell stories about their own personal experiences of “The Troubles.” Hearing stories from a local’s perspective is always a good way to immerse yourself in a city’s history.

MARVEL AT THE GIANT’S CAUSEWAY
Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the north coast. The site holds about 40,000 natural columns jutting out to the sea. The columns were formed due to a volcanic eruption that happened many centuries ago.

Legend has it that the giants of Ireland and Scotland were challenged to a fight, and for the duel to take place, the giants created a causeway over the ocean leading to Scotland. Interestingly, you can find the same types of columns at Fingal’s Cave in Scotland which supposedly comes from the same flow of lava or were made by the same giants, whichever you choose to believe. Remember that visiting the Giant’s Causeway is free, although you do have to pay more if you want to explore the Visitor’s Center. To access the Causeway for free, follow the archway to the side of the Visitor’s Center.

DRIVE THROUGH THE DARK HEDGES
Similar to Wales, Northern Ireland is composed of beautiful sprawling countryside. The Dark Hedges is a quiet road near the rural town of Ballymoney in County Antrim where beech trees line each side, creating an eerily imposing tunnel-like entrance. Planted almost 300 years ago, they were made famous when they appeared in the hit TV series Game of Thrones. The hedges originated in the 18th century when the Stuart family planted the trees to impress visitors as they approached their mansion, the Gracehill House. The hedges are just a 50-minute drive from Belfast, so it’s a perfect stopover before going further to explore the north coast.