Tag Archives: History

Spain Is Hot

Let’s go, amigos!

Map of Spain by Tourizm Maps © 2006

By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann
Photos by the author

Costa Blanca … Costa Daurada … the mere words conjure up images of warmth, sand and sunshine, just the antidote to chilly North American winter weather. Now is the time to head to the Mediterranean coast of Spain, where the weather is already warm. Going in the spring or fall offers great weather along with fewer tourists and lower, shoulder-season prices.

Spain is hot, hot, hot right now — from cuisine to fashion. Let’s go, amigos!

MAGICAL MADRID

Most flights from the United States fly into Madrid, and then connect to coastal cities such as Valencia or Barcelona. (Fly Iberian Airlines to get yourself into the Spanish state of mind.) Allow a few days for a Madrid sojourn before heading to the coast. The capital city is beautiful, packed with museums, great restaurants and many things to see and do.

The Gran Hotel Canarias Madrid makes a great home base. It is right in the center of town, across from the recently expanded Prado Museum and next to the Thyssen Museum.

Dining is a great pastime in Madrid, and Plaza Mayor is a good place to start. The area around the plaza is loaded with restaurants, such as Casa Botin, famous for its Castilian specialties and its listing in the Guinness Book of Records as the oldest restaurant in the world (circa 1725). Plaza Santa Ana, a short walk from the hotel and many museums, is home to lively tapas bars and wine bars. Near the Royal Palace, try the Café de Oriente. At the Thyssen Museum, dine in the terrace garden of the museum restaurant. For a simple and fun meal, check out the Museo del Jamon (Ham Museum), a chain of deli-cafes where you can see hanging hams, have a glass of sherry and a plate of sliced ham.

Hotel El Montiboli is perched on the Costa Blanca on the Mediterranean coast.
The central market of Alicante is in the heart of the city.

THE COSTA BLANCA

Tearing yourself away from Madrid, hop a plane or train and head to Alicante to begin your coastal voyage, then work your way northward along the coast to Barcelona, with as many stops along the way as your schedule will allow (or start in Barcelona and head south). Travel by rental car, plane or train, according to your preference and budget.

Alicante is on the Costa Blanca, or White Coast, and its beaches are spectacular. But there’s much more to do than lie on the sand and soak up the rays. Whether you take a guided city tour or wander on your own, don’t miss the imposing Santa Barbara Castle, which towers 500 feet above the city center, with panoramic views of the city below and the Mediterranean Sea. Early risers will enjoy the traditional covered market, the Mercado Centrale, bustling with vendors. Enjoy dinner at La Taberna del Gourmet or Nou Manolin.

A good base for exploring this area is the Hotel Hospes Amerigo, a beautifully renovated convent in the heart of Alicante. While the exterior is historic, the interior is ultra modern and comfortable.

Nearby towns include Elche and Villajoyosa, each worth a visit. In Elche, a majestic date palm grove with 600,000 trees, planted by the Phoenicians and later cultivated by the Moors, will take your breath away. Palm fronds from these trees are used for Palm Sunday celebrations throughout Spain. The grove itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Take time to visit the Basilica of Santa Maria, the Huerto del Cura Botanic Gardens and the Archaeological Museum. Enjoy lunch (paella, anyone?) at Els Capellans Restaurant in the peaceful and beautiful surroundings of Hotel Huerto del Cura.

The picturesque fishing port of Villajoyosa is a major center of Spain’s chocolate production. A must stop is the Valor Chocolate Factory and the Chocolate Museum. You’ll want to stock up on Valor chocolate for gifts for the folks back home. For a scenic lunch stop, try the luxurious Hotel El Montiboli, perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. The dining room is wrapped in windows, with a view as divine as the food.

Elaborate chocolate sculpture at the Valor Chocolate Museum.
The likeness of the Lady of Elche is found all over town, from floral representations to fountains to sculptures.

VIVACIOUS VALENCIA

Next stop: Valencia, one of the most exciting cities in Europe, with its cosmopolitan mixture of old and new, tradition and trendiness, sophistication and casualness. The Hotel Astoria Palace, in the heart of the Old Quarter, is a great place to call home in Valencia.

Begin your visit with a walking tour of the historic Old Quarter, with the Central Market, fascinating La Lonja Silk Exchange, unique Lace Market, Plaza Redonda and the beautiful St. Mary’s cathedral with its legendary Holy Chalice, believed to be the chalice used by Jesus Christ at the Last Supper.

For a complete change of pace, head to the ultra-modern City of Arts and Sciences, a museum where the building and grounds are as spectacular as what is inside. Other good choices include the Fine Arts Museum, Valencian Institute of Modern Art or the National Ceramics Museum.

Be sure to visit the bustling, revitalized port area, home of the 32nd America’s Cup competition in 2007, and future home of the 33rd America’s Cup in 2009. There will be a pre-regatta in July 2008.

If you like being next to the water, you might opt to stay at the new and beautiful Hotel Las Arenas, with its lush gardens and stunning pavilions overlooking the sea. Indulge in its luxurious spa, or dine in the elegant Restaurante Sorolla.

(left to right) The central market at Valencia is always bustling.; The National Ceramics Museum in Valencia has a remarkable exterior.; The ultra-modern City of Arts and Sciences is a must-see in Valencia.


For food to fuel your sightseeing, consider a stop for fideua, a paella made with noodles instead of rice, at Restaurante Submarino in the Oceanografico, or sample tapas at one of the many restaurants in the Old Quarter.

Be sure to try horchata, the artisanal beverage for which Valencia is known. A great place to get the real thing is in the suburb of Alboraya, where the chufa (tiger nut), the key ingredient in horchata, grows. The Horchateria Daniel serves a delicious horchata with the traditional accompaniment of freshly baked pastries.

For a charming outing and an authentic heartland paella, head out of town to the Albufhera, where you can take a boat ride through the shallow freshwater lagoon, a natural park known for many species of birds and fish, and visit a barraca, a traditional fisherman’s hut near the rice paddies and orange groves. La Matandeta is a rural farmhouse restaurant where the paella is cooked over firewood in a huge pan.

Paella is cooked in a huge pan over a wood fire at La Matandeta restaurant in the Albufhera area.
Local women make lace in the time-honored fashion in the center of the round plaza that houses Valencia’s Lace Market.

FROM HISTORIC CASTLE TO MODERN SPA

For a historic stop on your route north, make a slight detour to the medieval town of Tortosa and spend the night in the charming Castillo de la Zuda Parador, a 10th-century castle. Be sure to get there in time to wander the streets of this picturesque village and explore the castle itself. For dinner, sample regional specialties in the parador’s restaurant.

(clockwise) The convent garden is an oasis of peace within the bustling city of Tarragona.; Exquisite Roman mosaics are preserved in museums in Tarragona.; The Le Meridien Ra Beach Hotel and Spa in El Vendrell must be seen and experienced to be believed.

After a long day at sea, fishermen still have work to do, mending their nets. These are at the port of Tarragona.


Heading on to the Costa Daurada (Golden Coast), stop in the town of El Vendrell and spend a night –- or two or three -– at the ultra-modern and ultra-luxe Le Meridien Ra Beach Hotel and Spa. Splurge for spa treatments, such as the chocolate massage. Enjoy the beach, or play in one of the pools. Be sure to dine at least once in the hotel’s La Vinya del Penedes restaurant.

ROMAN ECHOES IN TARRAGONA

The next stop on your northward route is Tarragona, an ancient Roman city with layer upon layer of ruins, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Be sure to take a guided tour of the old town so you can understand the many layers of history upon which Tarragona is built. Each spring the town celebrates its heritage with Tarraco Viva, a Roman festival and games.

Visit Tarragona’s port and see the fishing boats arrive in the late afternoon. Watch the fisherman as they auction their fish and mend their nets. For a traditional mariner’s menu, dine in the seaside Restaurante La Puda and sample Tarragona’s famous Romesco sauce. Or, savor authentic tapas at Restaurante La Nau, tucked away on Calle La Nau in the old town.

BEAUTIFUL BARCELONA

The final stop (or the first, if you travel in the opposite direction), is Barcelona, the jewel of Catalonia. It would take another entire article to do justice to the wonders of Barcelona and its environs. Check with the local tourist office for maps and current events, then head out to see the sites. The celebrated architectural marvels of Antoni Gaudi are a must, and you’ll see them in many places throughout the city. Be sure to climb the steep towers of the iconic Sagrada Familia, or temple of the Sacred Family, for an up close and personal look at this architectural wonder.

While wandering along La Rambla through the heart of the city, duck into La Boqueria market, the largest in all of Spain. After whetting your appetite in the market, you might want to sign up for a cooking class at the Hofmann Escuela de Hosteleria (Hofmann Hospitality School) to learn how to cook Catalan specialties.

The Hotel Catalonia Berna is a great location for the hub of your explorations, within walking distance of many sites and close to the subway for longer trips.

A side trip to the Black Madonna Shrine of Montserrat, perched impossibly upon the steep mountains outside of Barcelona, is a must.

For more information about Spain, contact the Tourist Office of Spain in New York (212-265-8822); Miami (305-358-1992); Chicago (312-642-1992) or Los Angeles (323-658-7188) or go to www.spain.info.

World Renowned Venetian Glass

Discovering the colorful island of Murano, Italy

By Kristi Nelson Cohen
Photos by the author

The renaissance European aristocracy favored it, explorers Lewis and Clark used the beads for trading with the Native Americans and Victorians proudly displayed it. Venetian glass has captured our eye for centuries, and today artisans continue a time-honored tradition to produce some of the world’s most beautiful glass.

The marshy lagoon offers artisans the components necessary for glass making: silica, sand and soda ash. Glass making started in Venice over a thousand years ago, but with the fear of fire from the glowing hot furnaces, and air polluting smoke from these same furnaces, Venetians decreed that all glass making take place on a nearby island. Glass makers moved their furnaces and factories in 1291 to the island of Murano, just two miles north of Venice across the lagoon.

Once these glass artisans moved to Murano, this tiny town prospered and grew to nearly 30,000 residents in the 13th century. This community is similar to Venice, as it is comprised of several small islands, connected by canals and bridges, but on a much smaller scale. Today, Murano is home to only a few thousand permanent residents.

GET AWAY FROM CROWDS

Frankly, it is sometimes a relief to get away from the crowds and busy sidewalks in Venice and take the time to enjoy a slower pace in Murano. There are many glass factories still operating in Murano and most have complimentary demonstrations and tours available. Of course, they also have elegant showrooms with one-of-a-kind glass sculptures, chandeliers, goblets and even glass beads. Prices at the glass factories can seem steep, but each piece is authenticated, insured and shipping is available.

During a demonstration, most factories will show you how an artisan takes a molten glob of glass, orange with heat, and blows through a tube and spins the tube, creating a one-of-a-kind creation. Minerals and precious metals are added to the glass to create colors, just as they would have been 500 years ago. The color blends, and mineral recipes are a highly regarded secrets.

VISIT IS A ‘MUST’

A visit to a glass factory is a must, but when it comes to buying glass, there are also many smaller shops lining Murano’s main canal near the Vaparetto (water bus) stop. Compare prices, as you may find even better bargains in one of the many shops in Venice. The smaller shops don’t usually offer shipping, but they are happy to pack purchases in bubble wrap and tissue to pack in your luggage.

To learn about the history of glass making, visit the Museo Vetrario in the restored Palazzo Giustinian. This museum has exhibits of rare 500-year-old glass and glass/enamel pieces, as well as contemporary sculptures and examples of the entire glass making process. They are open 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. daily (closed Wednesday).

Following a morning glass factory tour, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the many eateries located along Murano’s main canal. Al Vetrai Da Adino, located at address number 29, is a personal favorite. Owner Adino and his wife Christina cook up some local favorites including the freshest fish, pastas and vegetables.

Start your meal with a typical Venetian “spritz” which is a refreshing aperitif made with Campari and sparking Prosecco. (If you enter the island via the Vaparetto, simply walk across the first bridge, then continue north about 200 feet and you’ll see the restaurant on your right. A large rooster logo adorns the front window.) Adino doesn’t speak much English, but his hospitality and great food will win you over. Be sure to tell them “Kristi sent me!” and you might be treated to an after-meal glass of Fragolino, a homemade wine that’s simply delicious! For advance lunch reservations,
call 041-739-293.

TAKE THE VAPARETTO

How to reach Murano: Take the public water bus or Vaparetto – #41/42– which takes about 30 minutes (from the train station, or Piazzale Roma ) or take boat # 52 from San Zaccaria which is near Saint Mark’s Square.

In 2007, Vaparetto tickets were available for one trip at 3 Euro, or 12 Euro for a 24 hour multi-trip ticket. The glass factories also have representatives in San Marco Square who sometimes provide a free or discounted fare water taxi in exchange for taking a specific factory tour. Some hotels can also arrange for a boat to pick you up at the hotel and take you directly to one of the factories.

Once in Murano, you may want to continue on to the island of Torcello (whose cathedral was founded in 639) or Burano (distinct for its multi-colored homes and famous for the lace-making crafts). Take Vaparetto #13 from the dock located adjacent Murano’s lighthouse. (This requires walking across the canal and around Murano in order to get to the other Vaparetto stop).

Frankly, after a busy morning and a big lunch in Murano, one might prefer a lazy boat ride back to Venice, a good cup of coffee and or perhaps an afternoon nap. It’s all a part of the Venetian experience.

Kristi’s favorite glass factory offering a one-of-a-kind demonstration and truly unique, contemporary glass art is called Schiavon. Their factory also produces stemware, chandeliers and traditional Murano glass, although the unique pieces by Mr. Massimiliano Schiavon are worth a visit. This glass factory has been in the Schiavon family for three generations.

Vetreria Artistica Di Schiavon
No. 7 – just a few shops north of the Vaparetto stop on the first canal.
Phone: 011-39-041 739 396
http://www.massimilianoschiavon.com
E-mail: info@massimilianoschiavon.com

Kristi Nelson Cohen is the owner of Bella Italia Trips, a small U.S. company offering guided trips to Italy. To reach Kristi or for more information, log onto www.bellaitaliatrips.com.

Spotlight on Bamberg

Bamberg, Germany, is a 1,000-year-old city of Episcopal and Imperial power, set on seven hills and located in the heart of Franconia in northern Bavaria.

The city’s Old Town illustrates the development of a Middle Age city, and it escaped World War II almost unscathed. Set on the Regnitz River, more than 2,000 buildings are listed as UNESCO sites and form one of the largest Old Towns in Europe.

Things to see while there include the late Romanesque-early Gothic Imperial Cathedral, the Old Town Hall built right in the middle of the Regnitz River, the Baroque Palace Bottinger House and the Renaissance buildings of the Old Court.

There are also 15 museums in town, displaying a large variety of collections that document the wide cultural diversity of the city;
at the Diocesan Museum, you can see the Blue Coat of Stars of Emperor Henry II. There are also numerous events and festivals–and, of course, there is that German favorite– beer. The town has 10 breweries which produce more than 50 differents beers, among them the famous “smoked beer.” There is also the Bamberg Brewery Trail, awarded special recognition in 2004.

What else can you do in Bamberg? You could spend a whole day just walking the beautiful cobblestoned streets, taking in the various sights, and checking out the many restaurants, taverns and shops. The town is magical in the evenings.

There are also concerts by the Bamberg Symphony Orchestra, the magic festival called Bamberg Zaubert, an Antiques Week (runs between July and August), an Old Town fair called Sandkerwa–the biggest fair in town in August, the Calderon Festival which features outdoor theater, and the famous Nativity Trail during Advent which features 34 different Nativity scenes around town. These scenes are located in squares, churches, museums and other locations. Between May and October, you can take in an organ concert in the Imperial Cathedral every Saturday at noon; admission is free.

For train-goers, Bamberg can be reached by InterCity and InterCity Express trains, as well as others. The town of 70,000 inhabitants is 37 miles from the Nuremberg airport. Don Heimburger

For more information, go to www.Bamberg.info.

Spotlight on Dubrovnik

By Susan O’Brien
Photos courtesy Croatian National Tourist Board

Have you always wished you had been on the Riviera with Hemingway, Stein and Picasso in the 1920s? Although time travel is not (yet) possible, there’s a place on the Adriatic coast that claims to capture that golden era.

Dubrovnik has a proud history that goes back to Roman times, and its ancient center is so remarkably well-preserved it is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites. It is Croatia’s southernmost city, enjoying a sunny Mediterranean climate and a spectacular mountain coastline dotted with more than 1,000 islands. It combines the charm of an ancient walled city with the amenities of a first-class Adriatic resort. It’s easy to see why the city has been known as “The Pearl of the Adriatic.”

The city was built on maritime trade, becoming a rival to Venice In the Middle Ages. Supported by its wealth and skilled diplomacy during the 15th and 16th centuries, Dubrovnik was one of the centers of development of the Croatian language and literature, home to many notable poets, playwrights, painters, mathematicians, physicists and other scholars.

GETTING THERE
The easiest way to get to Dubrovnik is by air, although bus and ferry transportation are also possibilities. Croatia Airlines operates daily flights to and from Zagreb and select European cities. Planes land at Dubrovnik International Airport (Zracna Luka), located at Cilipi, 18km (11 miles) from the city center.

Buses are available from other Croatian cities, as are ferries from Bari, Italy and other coastal spots in Croatia.

SIGHTS
The walled Old Town is pedestrian-friendly, and most major sites are inside. The Stradun is the main street through the Old Town. The Romanesque cathedral, which dates from the 6th or 7th century, was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1667 and rebuilt in the Baroque style by Roman architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti. There are also Jesuit, Dominican and Franciscan monasteries, among many other architectural treasures.

DINING
The basic style of Dubrovnik cuisine is Mediterranean. The emphasis is on olive oil, not butter. Polenta is a popular side dish and most dishes are liberally seasoned with parsley and garlic.

With strong historic links to Italy, it’s unsurprising that pasta and risotto is served in nearly every restaurant. Pizza is another favorite, usually toasted in wood-fired ovens.

The staple of traditional Dubrovnik cuisine is fish and seafood, expertly prepared but not necessarily local. The demand for best quality fish and shellfish far outstrips the supply, particularly in high season, and restaurants are often forced to buy frozen fish from afar.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Although the Yugoslavian wars of the ’90s severely damaged Dubrovnik, it has completely recovered and its tourist scene is as lively as ever. The city is home to dozens of accommodations from inexpensive hostels to luxurious, Riviera-style hotels. Apartment rentals are an economical option and are available in all price ranges as well. Some helpful web sites for finding accommodations are:
http://www.dubrovnik-guide.net/accommodation.htm
http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/english/hotel_list.php
http://www.visit-croatia.co.uk/accommodation/dubrovnik.htm

NIGHTLIFE
Dubrovnik hosts a lively nightlife scene and dozens of restaurants, all vying with each other for the attention of tourists. If you are used to the prices of Western Europe, this Eastern European city will seem like a comparative bargain.

MORE INFORMATION
There are plenty of good web sites about Croatia in general and Dubrovnik in particular, for help in travel planning. Here are a few:
www.visit-croatia.co.uk
www.dubrovnik-guide.net/
www.dubrovnik-online.com/

Falling for Casares

Ancient baths in a dramatic location

By Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb
Photos courtesy Costa Del Sol Tourism

Sometimes it helps to follow your nose.

For days we’d heard rumors about ancient baths located just below Casares, in southeastern Spain. But reliable information was hard to come by. The tourist brochures made only passing reference to them, and even the directions that we finally did get were vague to say the least: head down the mountain and through the quarry, turn onto the foot path, then walk toward the water. Precisely how far we should go and which of the half-hidden paths we should take remained a mystery, though.

So on we plodded in Andalusia’s autumnal sunshine dodging killer cacti and recalcitrant donkeys, until we smelt it — the sulfurous pool that first brought the area a measure of fame more than 2,000 years before.

According to legend, Julius Caesar stumbled upon this same spot in 61 BC, when he was merely a provincial administrator with a nasty skin condition, and was so impressed by the pool’s medicinal properties that he became a frequent visitor. The Roman-built structure that encloses it (known as Baños de la Hedionda) is a simple dome with a sheltering wall around the perimeter. Rising about eight feet above ground level, it is broken only by two low arches through which you enter directly into the water by way of either a rough wooden ladder or a stone ramp. Taking the plunge can be unnerving. Darkness makes the depth of the pool difficult to determine, and two subterranean vaults add to the sense of foreboding.

WATER IS DIVINE

Caesar, however, was absolutely right: the water is divine and warm enough for swimming well into the fall. For him, its healing power seemed miraculous. For us, on the other hand, the real miracle was that the baños—despite their proximity to the Costa del Sol, one of Europe’s most congested tourist strips—have no signs, lines or admission fees. In short, they’ve yet to be invaded by the hordes of vacationers who have overrun the Mediterranean coast from Malaga to Algeciras. The same can also be said of Casares, the pueblo blanco or “white village” reputedly named for Caesar that overlooks the baths. And it, too, can seem rather daunting at first.

In part that’s because of its dramatic location: set 1,425 feet up in the Sierra Bermeja Mountains, Casares’ sugar-cube buildings perch precariously on twin plateaus and tumble into the deep crevice between. But it is also because of the quiet. You see, the village is a study in serenity, which is unsettling for those who’ve come to equate holidays with site-filled itineraries and Amazing Race-style activities.

The truth is that, save for the late afternoon (when children take to the soccer field) or dusk (when adults tread the cobbled pedestrian-only streets on their nightly paseo) sounds here are as muted as the almond blossoms that enliven the landscape, which is precisely why Casares is a perfect place to rediscover the lost art of lounging.
The first step, literally, is to stroll over to Plaza España where you can browse shops bordering the square and watch locals play pétanque beside a centuries-old fountain. Afterwards, you might putter about in Casares’ small ethno-history museum or pay homage to Blas Infante, the “Father of Andalusian Nationalism,” at his restored birthplace.

SATISFY YOUR HUNGER
Next, having satisfied your curiosity, you can concentrate on satisfying your hunger. It’s a pleasant prospect considering Casareño eateries dish up simple fare prepared with Andalusian flare. Specialties include morcilla de chivo sausages and artisanal goat cheese accompanied by dense brown bread. Hearty soups are harvest-time favorites, and game (most notably rabbit rolled in wild herbs) is popular in season.

If you’d like to enjoy these with a side order of scenery, the best bet for dining is Bodeguita de en Medio, which has a rooftop terrace offering views of the ruins that stand guard over the village. The very presence of these, of course, proves life in Casares hasn’t always been quite so peaceful. Its strategic position made it a popular hideout for bandoleros in the 19th century. Before that it was favored stop for armed forces, from the earliest Iberians through to the French who attempted a takeover during the Napoleonic Wars. Those who succeeded left an indelible mark that earned Casares recognition as a National Historic-Artistic Site in 1978, and their legacy is nowhere more apparent than at this isolated spot.

Fortified by the Romans, it was further developed by Moors who gained control of the region in 711. By the 13th century, they’d erected a castle on the seemingly impregnable promontory. Within a few hundred years, Queen Isabella’s Christian soldiers had put an end to Arab domination, and the Encarnación church was built atop it. Now that, too, is an empty shell, and the evocatively decaying structure reaches heavenward with a different purpose: aerials have been attached to it to improve television reception! Contemporary life has brought other changes as well. The climb to the ruins admittedly remains steep. The sweeping views – up to the mountains, down to the sea and across to the northernmost reaches of Africa – are as magnificent as ever.

ROCK OF GIBRALTAR
But while the ancients could only gaze out and imagine these distant locales, today’s visitors can easily reach them. Estepona, the closest of the Mediterranean resort towns, is just 25 minutes east by car, and a morning’s drive west through the clouds will take you to Ronda, the stunning gorge-straddling city that has been dubbed the “Birthplace of Bullfighting.” The iconic Rock of Gibraltar, situated an hour south, promises Barbary Apes plus a quick taste of the British Empire. Even Tangier — Morocco’s infamous, undeniably exotic port city — is accessible to early risers, thanks to the packaged daytrips sold all along the seaboard.

Closer to home, Paraje Natural de Sierra Crestellina now beckons ramblers, and diehard duffers are welcome to hit a few balls at a new area golf course. Remember, though, the true beauty of this place is that you don’t have to break a sweat to enjoy it. When you allow yourself to fully surrender to Casares’ laconic spell, simply sitting on a deck chair can provide ample entertainment. It’s easy enough, after all, to idle away hours watching farmers tend the olive and cork groves below, or marveling at the belled goats that graze at impossible heights on the rocky outcroppings above. Once you’ve had your fill of that, you can always soak up the atmosphere in Baños de la Hedionda. Trust me, the water’s fine…

The Fine Print: If relaxing is your primary goal, choosing where to stay is as important as deciding where to go. So while you can bed down in a basic room Hotel Casares for about €60 a night, renting a vacation home is a more restful, and budget-friendly, alternative. We booked ours through Just Casares, a local company which lists traditional white-washed townhouses starting at €300 per week in autumn. Those off-season rates kick in September 1, even though the village hosts two favorite ferias (or fairs) during that month: one honoring La Virgen del Rosario, the other El Cristo. These run respectively the first Saturday in September and over a long weekend in mid-September to coincide with the end of the summer harvest.