Reviews – Page 29 – European Traveler

‘Ciao Down’ in Emilia-Romagna, Italy’s Gastronomic Capital

By Kristi Nelson Cohen
Photos by the author

One of things travelers enjoy the most is, well, eating. We chow down breakfast, lunch and dinner without blinking an eye, when we wouldn’t dream of eating this much at home. But as they say, “When in Rome.” You should definitely dine as they do, with a great glass of wine. Each region of Italy offers its specialties, but Emilia-Romagna, located in the heartland of central Italy, could easily be considered this country’s gastronomic capital.

Located just over an hour north of Florence and about two hours southwest of Venice is the region’s capital, a major metropolitan city called Bologna. Bologna is easily reached as a transportation hub on the Italian rail or on Highway A1 from Florence. Less than an hour northwest of Bologna are the smaller communities of Modena and Parma, which are also accessible by rail or car. The busy A1 highway links Bologna to Milan via Modena and Parma.

The larger-than-life opera singer Luciano Pavarotti was from Modena. Pavarotti’s large stature and his appetite for life, friendliness and generosity exemplify the people of this region. Those who watched his funeral on television in late 2007 got a glimpse of Modena’s historic Romanesque duomo. This 11th century cathedral, its piazza and bell tower are all listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site. But we’re here to talk about food!

Pigs still outnumber people here, which is why the Parma ham or prosciutto di parma is a dietary staple. Many of Italy’s prosciutto, salami and other pork products are cured in towns scattered over this region. Another well-known food staple is Parmesan cheese, and we’re not talking about the stuff that comes in a green can. The real deal is called Parmigiano-Reggiano. And don’t forget about the famed balsamic vinegar which originated in Modena, called Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. Here a visitor will learn about the painstaking process of making this aged, black gold. Tradizionale Balsamico is very expensive — a small bottle can cost $100-$400 — but each thick drop carries sweet and complex flavors used to enhance a variety of foods.

ACETO BALSAMICO TRADIZIONALE DI MODENA

The balsamic vinegar found in the grocery stores, or even in the specialty gourmet stores in the U.S., is great on salads, but has merely a slight resemblance to the real thing. Tradizionale vinegar is made with the Trebbiano white grape. The juice is cooked, reduced and fermented in a series of specifically made wooden casks for no less than 12 years. Each year, the vinegar evaporates from the wooden casks and is then moved to a graduated smaller cask. At the end of 12 years, what started as six gallons of fermenting grape juice will only produce one quart of finished tradizionale vinegar.

The vinegar production must pass strict government standards and be approved by the Balsamic Vinegar Consortium which monitors the quality and production amounts. There is only a handful of small producers, and while prices may seem high, this syrupy concoction takes years to create. While visiting the area it is possible to schedule a production tour and tasting. High end restaurants offer menu selections where the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is sprinkled sparingly over grilled meats, strawberries, tortelloni, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or even over ice cream. This sweet, aged, deep brown nectar can even be drunk as an after-dinner liqueur.

SAY “CHEESE” — PARMIGIANO–REGGIANO

West of Modena is Reggio Emilia, the birthplace of the renowned Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. This cheese is not only grated onto pasta, but is often served by itself in chunks as an appetizer or even for dessert, when it might be drizzled with honey or the famed balsamic vinegar.

Cheese production tours are available with advance scheduling. There you can watch cheese makers stirring the milky brew in large copper cauldrons, then cutting through the curds and later forming soft pillows of cheese. The soft cheese is pressed into a wheel form with the pre-formatted stamp which says “Parmigiano Reggiano” and allowed to cool. The soft wheel is then cured in saltwater brine for two weeks. The cheese wheel is then placed on wooden shelves and allowed to age from 2-5 years.

Visitors can easily buy this cheese from any market in the area or even at the airport on departure day. Be sure to check the hardened rind area to see the perforated stamp of authenticity. If the cheese is sealed in a vacuum package, it is perfectly acceptable to carry home as a delicious reminder of a vacation in Italy.

(left to right) Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano undergo the aging process; Master cheese makers with pillows of soft cheese

FAST CARS, RAGING BULLS AND RED RACING FEVER

If great food and world heritage sights aren’t enough to entice a visit to the area, perhaps the thrill of seeing another part of Italy’s claim to fame will Italian design is world famous, but none more coveted than Italian specialty sports cars. The Modena area is home to Ferrari, Maserati, Ducati, Lamborghini and Pagani.

Tours at the Ferrari factory, located 12 miles south of Modena in Maranello, are not available, but the Galleria Ferrari Museum has a great exhibition of engines, vintage cars, memorabilia and a reconstruction of Ferrari founder Enzo Ferrari’s personal study. There’s also the official Formula One shop, the Ferrari restaurant and places where visitors can view the Ferrari test track through the fence, giving an ample cure for “red racing fever.”

The Lamborghini Factory Museum located at Via Modena 12 in Sant’Agata is under the same roof as the “raging bull” factory. There visitors enjoy a wide array of vintage automobiles, historic photos and rare prototype models. With an advance appointment, factory tours are also available, and this museum isn’t nearly as crowded as Ferrari, which gives visitors a chance to stroll the displays at leisure. Guided tours in English are available with advance request.

There is so much to see for the sports car enthusiast that it might be best to set up guided full-service tours with museum and factory admission organized in advance by a professional guide service. Le Volpi Ciccione is one such operator. They can even customize a tour that includes your own Ferrari to drive for a few days, as long as your budget will allow.

Our food and motor tour included a cooking class at the Ferrari Village restaurant. The Ferrari Village’s red exteriors were a good match for the passion of the restaurant’s culinary team, which graciously opened their kitchen so our group could learn to make gnocco fritto (a light deep-fried dough which was served piping hot with thin slices of prosciutto) and the filled pasta called tortelloni (larger) or tortellini (traditional smaller-shaped filled pasta). Following the cooking instructions, our group enjoyed a luncheon fit for kings and, yes, we sampled our own creations, although some students were better at shaping the tortelloni than others.

With great food, historic sights, friendly people and the classy Italian sports cars, this area of Italy is not to be missed!

CONTACT INFORMATION TO HELP YOU FIND YOUR WAY THROUGH EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Le Volpi Ciccione srl – Tour Operator/Travel Agency in Modena
Le Volpi provides customized tours and area lodging with emphasis on food, wine, motorcars, historic sights and much more. English speaking guides and group tours available.

Vicolo del cane 7, 41100 Modena, Italy
Phone: 011-39-059-218 722
For customized tour itineraries for both individuals and groups, contact Giusy@levolpiciccione.it

Museo Lamborghini
Via Modena 12, 40019 Sant’Agata Bolognese, Italy
Phone: 011- 39-051-681 7611
Open Monday through Friday excluding holidays
E-mail: museo@lamborghini.com or for factory tours factorytour@lamborghini.com

Galleria Ferrari
Via Dino Ferrari, 43-41053 Maranello, Italy
Phone: 011-053-694-32 04
Open every day excluding Dec. 25 & Jan. 1
E-mail: (for group requests) galleria@ferrari.it

Balsamic Vinegar Consortium
Corso Cavour 60, Modena 41100
Phone: 011-059 23 6981

Parmigiano-Reggiano Consortium
Via Kennedy 18, Reggio-Emilia
Phone: 011-052 23 077 41

About the writer
Kristi Nelson Cohen, also known as the “Train Dame,” has a long history with marketing and tourism promotions. Cohen’s love of history and trains, in addition to her hospitality and marketing background, led to a position as Vice President of Marketing for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad where she worked full time until 2004.

Cohen remains active as an affiliate for American Heritage Railways and Rail Events Inc. where she has assisted with marketing efforts for The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad, Thomas the Tank Engine, Little Engine That Could Rail Tour and Polar Express Rides. She was also one of the organizers of the National Narrow Gauge Convention held in Durango in August 2006. She now owns and operates an international tour company called Bella Italia Trips, leading guided tours to Italy.

Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof: Historic Lodgings in a Modern Metropolis

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger

The name “Steigenberger” in the hotel business stands for hospitality at its best, and the Frankfurter Hof in Frankfurt, Germany doesn’t disappoint. From the moment you walk through the stately pillars of the 136-year-old façade, across the courtyard with its outdoor dining tables covered with crisp white linens, into the elegant reception area, you sense the 5-star luxury.

From the doorbell in the hall to the “Tilevision” flat screen TV in the bathroom, the spacious rooms speak comfort. The beautifully appointed rooms boast a luxurious firm bed, large flat screen TVs, AC, high-speed internet access, a bathroom area with tub and double sink, and separate small rooms for the toilet and the shower. Bathrooms have hairdryers and outlets in both 110 and 220 volts that fit plugs for U.S. appliances without needing an adaptor.

Remarkable, considering the location of the hotel in the middle of Frankfurt’s business district, was the absolute absence of outside noise in the room, allowing for a good night’s sleep.

The breakfast buffet is in the Hofgarten, one of the four restaurants at the Frankfurter Hof. An order for coffee brings a small individual pot to the table. Espressos are also available to order. The buffet caters to all international tastes: from the German meat, cheese and Brotchen, to American bacon and eggs; from Asian specialties, to a full English breakfast; an omelet station, juices, cereals, grains, breads and pastries. Also open for lunch, the Hofgarten seating is available indoors or in the adjacent courtyard.

Other restaurants at the Frankfurter Hof include the Japanese IROHA, deemed among the best sushi restaurants in town; Oscar’s, a more casual bistro with its own terrace and bar; and the elegant gourmet Restaurant Francais, which has earned a Michelin star for the last three years.

Another attraction in the hotel is the Autorenbar, or Author’s Bar, at which you can have a late continental breakfast, light lunch, or classic high tea. With live piano music to entertain you in the evening, the room is especially popular during the annual Frankfurt International Book Fair, when it hosts receptions with visiting authors.

In the afternoons or evenings, smokers can relax in the Cigarrum lounge with a selection fine wines and chocolates.

Opened in 1876, the Frankfurter Hof grandly offered 250 rooms, 20 banquet rooms, and dining for 800, with elevators and steam heating. A few years later it boasted the first public phone and the first electric lighting in Frankfurt. Its international popularity grew steadily until the Second World War. In 1940 Albert Steigenberger became the major stockholder of the hotel and took over its management.

In March 1944 bomb attacks destroyed all but the façade of the hotel. Rebuilding started four years later, and by 1961 the Frankfurter Hof was the largest hotel in the Federal Republic of Germany.

While the Old World façade implies a sense of history, the deluxe hotel’s 280 rooms and 41 suites, 18 banquet rooms, four restaurants, bar and Wellness Club have been continuously restored and renovated, with the latest work on the second floor being completed just this past spring.

It is ideally located in the center of Frankfurt’s business district, a short walk from the Frankfurt train station, the Main River, the shopping district, and the historic half-timbered building area around the town hall, called Roemer, where museums and restaurants abound.

If the location and luxurious amenities aren’t enough to bring you to the Frankfurter Hof, come for its enthusiastic and knowledgeable concierge, Jurgen Carl. With 50 years of experience at that post, Herr Carl rejected the idea of retirement to continue doing the job he loves. With encouragement from his fans, he has even authored a book about his craft. He will greet you with a genuine smile, eager to answer your travel questions.

Since so many trips to Germany begin with a flight to Frankfurt, the Frankfurter Hof is an ideal place to pamper yourself with a good night’s rest, fortifying meals, and travel tips before you venture out on your European travels.

HOTEL INFO
Address: AM Kaiserplatz
60311 Frankfurt am Main
Germany
Phone +49 69 215-02
Fax +49 69 215-900
e-mail: frankfurter-hof@steigenberger.de
www.steigenberger.com/en/Frankfurt/

See the hotel’s photostream on Flickr: www.flickr.com/photos/steigenberger/sets/72157625885624181

Humble Onion Stars at Weimar Onion Market

A colorful autumn fair; a local market since 1653

Photos courtesy of German National Tourist Office

The humble onion is the star of the show at the Onion Market held in Weimar, Germany every October. These are no ordinary onions lumped together in crates or sacks; these are onions arranged together in the traditional way and decorated with dried flowers of yellow, white or lilac. They come in all sizes, too—from tiny ones to whopping big ones.

MARKET FOR BEASTS AND ONIONS
The market was first recorded in 1653 as a “market for beasts and onions” on what is today the Frauenplan, at a time when Weimar barely had a population of 5,000. There are many instances of the links between the German writer Goethe and the Market; he is said to have secured onion hearts to his desk, to have decorated his house with them, and to have praised the role of the onion in promoting good health.

In the 19th century, the market moved to today’s Schillerstrasse and developed into the major onion purchasing center for the whole of central Germany. Dealers came mainly from Heldrungen, 29 miles away, and that is still the case today.

In 1861 the market was extended to three days. In 1872 the city of Weimar passed an Onion Market Ordinance. Onions are offered as well as celery, radishes, garlic, leeks and marjoram, as well as other types of spices and vegetables. During the 20th century, world wars and inflation led to the decline of the market, and it was reduced to one day due to the limited produce available and high prices. It was not until the 1950s that the market began to pick up again, and by 1971 a record was set when 200,000 visitors attended.

ONION GARLAND
The sale of the famous market souvenir, the onion garland, has grown to 70,000 pieces, and onions and other vegetables, fruits, spices and handicrafts began to make their mark. In 1990 the Onion Market again became a three-day event. The market has also grown in size in the interim and now occupies the whole of the historic inner city. The number of visitors is now 350,000 annually.

For more info, contact the German National Tourist Office.

Starbucks Serves Swiss Rails

Photos Courtesy Swiss Travel Systems

The Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) and Starbucks have collaborated on a pilot project to launch the first ever Starbucks store on wheels.

SBB and Starbucks will open traveling Starbucks stores on two intercity (IC) 2000 bi-level trains between St. Gallen and Geneva, Switzerland; the project converts the current onboard restaurants into mini Starbucks stores small enough to fit inside double-decker trains.

Travelers can buy and sip their favorite beverages onboard and having the comfort of a familiar drink, while reading a favorite book, or gazing out the window at the Swiss scenery are sure to enhance travels even more. With this project, SBB plans to target young guests and business travelers looking for a quick afternoon pick-me-up.

SBB’s subsidiary, Elvetino, remains in charge of onboard restaurant operations. Elvetino operates 90 railway dining cars, 198 minibars and is in charge of onboard restaurant services of SBB trains throughout Switzerland, Germany, France and Italy.

Switzerland and Starbucks have a long history together: Starbucks opened the first store in continental Europe in Switzerland more than 10 years ago, and the coffee machines used by Starbucks were developed exclusively for Starbucks by Thermoplan, a manufacturing company located in Central Switzerland.

With the new Starbuck’s on-board train service, passengers will be able to stay alert to the inspiring Swiss landscape outside the window.

Compiled by Brittany Petrillo

For more info, go to: www.sbb.ch/en, or www.myswitzerland.com

When in Austria, Look for Dirndls

Photos courtesy Austrian Tourist Board

What is a Dirndl? If you have seen the movie “The Sound of Music,” you already know the basic elements that make up a Dirndl: skirt, bodice, apron and blouse. Simple, right? Far from it!

There is a veritable science to Dirndl cuts, fabric patterns, colors and embroidery.The main elements that make up a Dirndl are the wide skirt attached to a “Leiberl,” or fitted bodice, an apron (often with a hidden pocket) and a short Dirndl blouse.

The skirt usually starts at the waist or a little lower. You can choose between various lengths, depending on current fashion trends. The bodice used to be a separate item, but since the 1930s is sewn to the skirt. It comes in many different styles: with a high or low, round or square neckline, it is fastened with buttons, hooks, or ribbons.

An important element is the Dirndl blouse. It is generally very short (ends above the waist), with long, short or puffed sleeves. It can have many different necklines and is usually made of white cotton or linen. The Dirndl blouse accentuates the style of your Dirndl: Choose between delicately hand-embroidered pieces, blouses with extravagant ruffles and lace, or simple ones with straight sleeves.

Finally, there is the apron. Formerly worn to protect the dress underneath, it is now a purely decorative item. There are aprons for every-day wear and aprons for festive occasions which are usually of a more elegant fabric than the simple linen or cotton ones. Before you tie the knot—be sure to check on which side to place it—otherwise you might unwittingly send out the wrong message.

Different combinations of these elements make up the traditional Dirndl. There are different Dirndl styles for different occasions, even Dirndl styles that tell which region in Austria the wearer is from. With the recent “Dirndl Renaissance,” there are countless downright “unorthodox” styles that experiment with different fabrics, cross cultural references and punk elements.

If all these options seem daunting at first, remember: the most important thing is to have fun with the many different colors and patterns, and to choose a Dirndl that fits your personality.

FROM PEASANT GARB TO HIGH FASHION
The Dirndl has evolved from its humble origins centuries past as the work garb of peasants to a modern-day fashion superstar. With its feminine silhouette, its versatility and simple elegance, the Dirndl is a fashion “evergreen.” But where does it come from, and how did it get so popular?

Allegedly, the short Dirndl blouse we know today was originally a long shirt. Way back when, the shirt was actually one of the “basics” in the contemporary wardrobe of the rural population. Women wore a bodice, or even just a tightly wound cloth as an undergarment for warmth and support. Aprons were tied around the shirt to protect it from stains and dust. When people came home from the fields, the apron was simply switched to a different one for house work, or one for festive occasions.

Eventually, for reasons of practicality and perhaps vanity, the shirt was sometimes worn underneath the bodice and so the Dirndl was born. For a long time it was the garb of women in the countryside, and different styles developed for different regions.

Finally, in the middle of the 19th century, Emperor Franz Joseph and his court used to vacation in the Salzburg Lake district. The emperor took to wearing Lederhosen during his hunting exhibitions there, and a fashion trend was born. Suddenly, the Dirndl was all the rage and the Viennese aristocracy wore Dirndls and Lederhosen during their stay in the country.

Photo courtesy Ernst Licht German Imports

In the 1920s, the founders of the Salzburg Festival contributed to the popularity of the Dirndl by making it acceptable to wear during performances and society events. The Salzburger Dirndl manufacturer Lanz and the world-wide success of the operetta “Weisses Roessl” made the Dirndl an international hit.

Since then the Dirndl has conquered the international fashion world. In the last 10-15 years, the Dirndl and traditional costumes in general have experienced another huge surge in popularity, even outside of the regions in Austria where it has been an everyday item for generations.

WHERE TO BUY A DIRNDL?
With so many different styles to choose from, where do you start your own quest for the perfect Dirndl? Where to find authentic, traditional styles, and which Dirndl designers are known for fun and tasteful modern versions?

The best place to buy your Dirndl, of course, is at the “source.” The “real” Maria von Trapp used to mainly wear Dirndls and ordered new outfits with her favorite Dirndl tailor whenever she went back to her native Salzburg. Today, with Dirndls and Lederhosen in high demand, there are enough Dirndl manufacturers and stores to make your head spin.

For more info, go to www.austria.info/us