Accommodations – Page 4 – European Traveler

Happy to See You in Belfast

By Carol Price Spurling
Photos by the author and courtesy Belfast Welcome Center

The first time I visited the Emerald Isle more than 20 years ago I steered clear of troubled Belfast. But I’m older and wiser now, and Belfast, too, has grown up, transformed from a self-absorbed, divided town into an extroverted and welcoming world-class city.

Belfast offers Victorian charm in every quarter and has retained the best of what Ireland is famous for: warm hospitality, atmospheric historic and cultural sites, and easy access to the lush unspoiled countryside. In Belfast, they’re glad to see you, not just your wallet, and what a difference that makes.

BELFAST HIGHLIGHTS
West Belfast’s Shankill and Falls neighborhoods saw most of the “Troubles” that erupted in the early 1970s. The Peace Walls that separate them are still standing, but visitors are welcomed on both sides and the practice of customers being searched before entering a store or office was retired years ago. For those interested in an insider’s view of Belfast’s political divide, Coiste Political Tours (www.coiste.ie/p_tours.htm) offers guided tours by Republican ex-political prisoners. Or, take a taxi tour to see wall murals and other relics from the bad old days (West Belfast Taxi Association, www.wbta.net).

The center of Belfast, Donegall Square, features Belfast City Hall (www.belfastcity.gov.uk), an embellished stone edifice built in 1888 as a monument to Belfast’s bright future.

All metro buses lead to the bustling square, also home to literary gem Linen Hall Library (www.linenhall.com). In this old linen warehouse, transformed into a library in 1788, visitors can access the cozy library’s unique archives such as the Northern Ireland Political Collection and the C.S. Lewis Collection. Enjoy the library’s tranquil wood-paneled ambiance and a view of City Hall by taking a tea break in the upstairs café.

A horse-drawn carriage strolls past the Ulster Transport Museum

On Fridays and Saturdays the oldest Victorian-era covered market in Ireland, St. George’s, fills up with local shoppers intent on finding a bargain or tracking down the best fresh food in the region (www.belfastcity.gov.uk/markets). The Saturday market is devoted to food. You won’t go away hungry, with 250 stands offering everything from oysters to Irish cheeses to seaweed tapenade to tapas to sausages in curry sauce. Look for locally made “Belfast in a box” chocolates that celebrate Belfast landmarks, accompanied by an illustrated booklet (www.citycentres.com).

Everyone knows where the Titanic met her end but did you know she was born in Belfast? The city’s proud shipbuilding heritage is still obvious with the huge yellow cranes in the Harland and Wolff shipyard –- nicknamed Samson and Goliath — towering over Queen’s Island and the Titanic Quarter on the city’s eastern edge.

(left) Sampling seaweed at St. George’s Market

Belfast celebrates its past with the Titanic Made in Belfast Festival every March (www.belfastcity.gov.uk/titanicfestival), when free bus tours of Queen’s Island are offered by the city on Saturdays and Sundays.

My personal favorite from the tour: the inside of the design room at Harland and Wolff’s offices, where draftsmen labored under a cathedral-like arched ceiling to draw the ship’s plans.

DO YOU NEED A CAR?
Although Ireland and Northern Ireland aren’t famous for their extensive rail networks, between trains, buses, and taxis you can get anywhere you need to go in the greater Belfast area and environs without having to rent a car –- or drive on the left. Coach tours and trains also run directly north to Portrush, with convenient connections to Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, and Bushmills Distillery. Along the northern and southern shores of Belfast Lough, rail service is frequent and affordable, so getting to top attractions just outside Belfast, like Carrickfergus Castle (www.ehsni.gov.uk/carrick.shtml) or the must-see Ulster Folk and Transport Museum (www.uftm.org.uk/) is easy peasy. Day return tickets are offered at 1/3 off the standard rate if you leave after the morning rush hour, and families can get special ticket deals too (www.translink.co.uk).

But to see some of Northern Ireland’s diverse natural beauty and historic architecture (Environment and Heritage Service, www.ehsni.gov.uk/other-index/places.htm), a car will be very helpful. Most recommended is to make a day of driving north along County Antrim’s Causeway Coastal Route, where the craggy cliffs and wild sea spray on one side is balanced by charming villages and green pastures dotted with tranquil sheep on the other. Giant’s Causeway — a stunning outcropping of columnar basalt — can be busy during the tourist season but has been kept remarkably uncommercialized. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for the best light at this geological wonderland (www.causewaycoastandglens.com).

Another lovely drive is west through the Fermanagh Lakelands, home of Belleek pottery, and National Trust gem Castle Coole (www.fermanaghlakelands.com).

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Celebrity chefs Paul and Jeanne Rankin have put Belfast on the culinary map with Cayenne Restaurant (www.rankingroup.co.uk) and Roscoff Brasserie. Up and down the Golden Mile on Dublin Road, foodies will be spoiled for choices of great pubs, cafés, bistros and restaurants.

Chef Michael Deane runs Northern Ireland’s only Michelin-starred eatery at Deane’s Restaurant (www.michaeldeane.co.uk); his newest venture is the contemporary bar and grill Deanes at Queens, located in the Queen’s University Common Rooms.

Coffee addicts never fear, Belfast baristas know what they’re doing. You can’t go wrong visiting any one of the seven Clement’s coffee shops, where coffee drinking is practically a spiritual pursuit, and the creamy hot chocolates are served in a large bowl.

(left to right) Dining at one of Chef Michael Deane’s Belfast restaurants; Steak and Guinness pie is an Irish specialty

WHERE TO STAY
In downtown Belfast itself, a famous landmark is the 4-star Europa Hotel (www.hastingshotels.com) conveniently located just in front of Great Victoria Street rail station and the Europa Buscentre. Head concierge Martin Mulholland will make sure you get everything you need, even if you’re not as famous as some guests who’ve stayed there, like Bill Clinton, Julia Roberts and Elton John.

For a more secluded getaway try the 5-star Culloden Hotel in Holywood, overlooking Belfast Lough (www.hastingshotels.com), or The Old Inn in picture-perfect Crawfordsburn (www.theoldinn.com), both within easy reach of the city.

For less expansive budgets there are dozens of guestshouses, B&Bs, self-catering holiday apartments, hostels, and budget hotels both in Belfast and in neighboring communities. Some are chic, some charming; choose according to your mood.

The Premier Inn hotel (www.premierinn.com) boasts a great central location and is spanking new to boot. The Ash-Rowan Town House (tel. 9066 1758) offers a choice of nine gourmet breakfasts, with a side of historic significance: the Ash-Rowan was once the home of Titanic designer Thomas Andrews.

If you get out into the Fermanagh Lakelands and wish you could stay, check out Belle Isle Castle (www.belleisle-estate.com), outside Enniskillen near Lisbellaw. The old stables and coach house have been transformed into comfortable holiday rentals, with a variety of outdoor activities available, as well as day-long cooking classes taught by Irish chef Liz Moore. You can even rent the castle for a group stay, or a small wedding.

WHEN YOU GO
If you’re planning a trip to Belfast and Northern Ireland, be sure to visit the Belfast Welcome Centre website, www.gotobelfast.com. Like the office itself located at 47 Donegall Place in the city center, it is user-friendly, multi-lingual, and comprehensive. Be sure to pick up copies of their excellent themed city guides.

The Northern Ireland Tourist Board website is www.discovernorthernireland.com. Another free publication to pick up: Belfast In Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com). Published every couple of months, it always has the most up-to-date happenings, complete with maps of the city.

Beautiful Bratislava

By Leah Larkin
Photos by Don Heimburger (unless noted)

“I like the changes. The town looks much better now. It’s more comfortable,” says city guide Evo Cubrikova.

She was speaking about her hometown, Bratislava, the Slovak capital of 450,000 inhabitants that is spread out on two banks of Europe’s second longest river, the Danube.

Indeed, since Czechoslovakia overthrew communism in 1989 and Slovakia split from the Czech Republic in 1993, there have been major changes and improvements, not just in Bratislava, but throughout the country.

Yet, progress has been fastest in the capital where renovation, new construction and new wealth have made their mark. Most remnants of those gray, shabby communist days are long gone, replaced by freshly renovated historic buildings now painted in pretty pastels, swanky shops, trendy restaurants and bustling cafes.

LIVELY PLACE
It’s not Vienna, Prague or Budapest, but it’s a pleasant, lively place to visit. Many tourists in nearby Vienna (64 km/ 40 miles away) and Budapest (194 km/116 miles) make day trips by bus or boat to the city. The opposite is also true with Bratislava visitors heading to the Austrian and Hungarian capitals, also for day excursions.

“Bratislava is a great city break destination,” notes Alison White of the British tour agency Regent Holidays which sends many visitors to the city. “You can take the hydrofoil to Budapest or Vienna. Use it as a base to explore these cities that are more expensive.”

But don’t neglect Bratislava’s sights which are easy to explore on foot as the town is not that big. Towering over the city is its castle, a perfect place to begin a visit with magnificent views of the town and surroundings. Unfortunately the interior of the castle which houses the Slovak National Museum is closed for extensive renovation and will remain so for several years.

It’s still worth the trek. You can climb the outer walls and aim your camera for overall shots of the town. Across the river is Petrzalka, a suburb of bleak concrete highrises built in the communist era. One third of the city’s population live in these apartments, which are being restored. Because of their proximity to the inner city, they are now in demand, Cubrikova said.

The first written reference to the castle dates to 907, but the first inhabitants of the castle hill were Celts, then came the Slavs who built a fortress there. It was replaced by a palace of stone in the 10th century when Bratislava became part of the Hungarian kingdom. In the 15th century a Gothic castle was built, but all that changed in the 16th century when it was rebuilt in Renaissance style. Then along came Maria Theresa who had it converted into a rococo structure for her daughter.

MOST IMPORTANT TOWN
During Maria Theresa’s reign (1740-1780), Bratislava became the largest and most important town in the territory of present-day Slovakia and Hungary. The population exploded and many new palaces, monasteries, mansions and streets were built. But the glory began to fade when Maria Theresa’s son, Joseph II took over and the crown jewels were taken to Vienna in 1783 in an attempt to strengthen the union between Austria and Hungary.

The castle burned down in 1811 and remained a hulk of empty ruins until 1953 when renovation began, continuing until 1968. From far off, it looks like an upside down table -– four towers (legs) extending from the building, the table top.

At the foot of the castle is the charming Old Town with labyrinthine streets and cobblestone squares. The prominent church at the edge of the Old Town, which was once part of the city’s walls, is St. Martin’s cathedral, a three-nave Gothic church dating to the beginning of the 14th century. Bratislava was the capital of the Kingdom of Hungary under the Habsburg monarchy from 1536 to 1783. Eleven Hungarian kings and eight royal wives were crowned in the cathedral.

Wandering through the narrow alleys of the Old Town behind the cathedral is reminiscent of Prague, with a Middle Ages ambience still in tact. You’ll undoubtedly come to Michael’s Gate, the only preserved gate of the medieval city fortifications. Its appearance changed through the centuries, but its 51-meter high tower still dominates.

Just down from the Gate is my favorite Bratislava discovery — Cokoládovna pod Michalon at Michalská 6, a chocolate café with what must be the world’s best hot chocolate — 44 different kinds, most with liqueurs. Dark, thick, sinfully delicious. I went for Indian hot chocolate, flavored with rum, cloves, cinnamon, orange peel and whipped cream –89 SKK (Slovak koruna).

Bratislava’s Old Town Hall took shape in the 15th century when several burgher houses were joined together. It, too, has been reconstructed throughout the centuries and now houses the city’s Municipal Museum. Under its tower is a unique and cozy cafe, Radnicka, which employs the disabled and is very popular. Crafts made by the disabled are also sold in the café.

CITY’S MAIN SQUARE
Walk through the passageway under the tower past the restaurant and enter the city’s main square, Hlavne Namestie, where architectural gems have been restored and now house embassies. There are also several cafes in the square including Maximilian’s, a pastry shop/café with a fountain flowing with liquid chocolate. Opposite is the Café Mayer, another noted café and pastry shop famous for “razky,” the city’s signature pastry, crescent shaped with a tiger pattern on the crust and a tasty filling of ground walnuts or poppy seeds.

Another attraction in this square is one of the town’s whimsical statues — a bronze of a Napoleonic soldier leaning over a bench. Tourists love to sit on the bench and pose next to the fellow, who was said to have been left behind by the French after they besieged the city in 1809.

More of these fun surprises are spread throughout the city, another favorite being a man peeping out of a manhole on the street. They say he’s looking up the ladies’ skirts.

On a more serious note is the Primatial Palace, an elegant, classical palace from the end of the 18th century which was the archbishop’s winter palace and now serves as the mayor’s office. Its lavishly-decorated rooms are used for official ceremonies. When none of these is taking place, you can visit and admire its Hall of Mirrors and series of six enormous, stunning English tapestries from the 17th century that illustrate the mythical legend of Hero and Leandros. According to Cubrikova, there are only three sets of tapestries in the world illustrating this legend, but only Bratislava’s set is complete.

The perfect place for a stroll is Hviezdoslavovo Namestie, a long mall-like boulevard with the Slovak National Theater on one end and a small square on the other end near the city’s famous New Bridge. Trees, fountains, a gazebo, cafes and restaurants, even the American Embassy, line the boulevard which is abuzz with people.

The restaurant of choice is the Slovenská Reštaurácia (www.slovrest.com), Hviezdoslavovo nám. 20, rich in old Slovak décor with a “Stroll Through Slovak Gastronomy” five-course menu for 790 SKK. From smoked trout, garlic soup with fried bread, goose liver in red wine sauce, a farmer’s platter and the finale, your choice of several types of homemade strudel, it’s a hearty feast. Get in the Slovak spirit and begin the meal with a shot of brandy. The restaurant serves many kinds, but silvovica (plum brandy) is the local staple. Slovakia makes excellent beer, the beverage of choice with this meal.

ONE-PYLON BRIDGE
After a meal like that, exercise is in order. Cross the bridge, a city symbol that was built in 1972 –- a futuristic suspension bridge with only one pylon. Ride the elevator to the top of the bridge tower where there is a viewing platform and the panorama “UFO” restaurant, so named because of its flying saucer shape. On the other side of the Danube is a lovely riverside park.

The UFO restaurant (www.u-f-o.sk/en/) is pricey with gourmet offerings — a six-course menu for 3,000 SKK. You can even have a tasting of Iranian caviar (6,800 SKK for 30 grams). I settled for a cappuccino, 70 SKK.

In the more affordable category, the Reštaurácia Monarch, Sedlárska 4, offers the Demänovská Valley Delicacy, a potato pancake filled with beef strips, tomatoes, green peppers, onions and mushrooms. Cost of the tasty concoction: 320 SKK. A large beer, 60 SKK.

Slovak crafts — wooden products, painted ceramics, cornhusk dolls — make the best souvenirs. Crystal is also a local favorite. I bought a pretty hand painted plate at Folk Art, Panská 2, for 450 SKK.

Recommended hotels in the city center include the four-star Hotel Devin (www.hoteldevin.sk) at Riecna 4; a new four-star boutique hotel, Marrols, (www.hotelmarrols.sk) at Tobrucká 4, and the reasonable and popular three-star Ibis Hotel (www.ibis-bratislava.sk), Zamocka 38.

For more information, check out visit.bratislava.sk/en/.

Ghent: From Fallen Angels to Hard Candy to the Great Butcher’s Hall

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

From the year 1000 to about 1500, Ghent, Belgium, was said to be one of the most important cities in Europe. It was larger than London, and only Paris was larger in size.

The city was ruled by rich merchant families, from whence came its great wealth. Today, Ghent is still a town rich in history, color and great food and beer. It also helps visitors that as many as 120 new location signposts have been installed to guide tourists to the most important spots in town.

(left) The three towers of Ghent

Walking near the city center, you’re bound to discover features of the city that will amuse or interest you. Stolling along a street not far from Ghent’s impressive Castle of the Counts, I run across a small shop sign that reads, “The Fallen Angels.” The shop is devoted to old things. I like old things.

I hesitate to go in, perhaps not wanting to become one of those things the proprietor’s shingle suggests, but the more I study the front window, the more I determine it’s not only safe to walk in, but intriguing. Intriguing because of all the things that owner Isabelle Steel has gathered over the last 30 years or so for her re-sale shop.

“I started collecting things when I was 16 years old,” she explains. “My father was a painter,” she says, in helping to decipher how she came to appreciate colorful images.

PACKED WITH IMAGERY
Her very small, quaint shop is packed with imagery in the old kitchen tins, the religious paintings, the thousands of postcards, the picture albums from as early as 1886, the old manufacturer catalogs, and the posters, dolls, toys and trains that pack the place.

Two floors of “fallen angels” material line the walls, the drawers, the flat surfaces of the shop. There is no more room for additional fallen angels. Every cabinet, every inch on the wall has been crammed with attention-getting merchandise.

A sign on the second floor, which is like a small mezzanine and a few steps up from the main floor, reads, “Not more than 3 persons on second floor.” If it could even hold that. Isabelle’s website reads, “For those who require a little bit of nostalgia, this is the place to visit. Here you will find old postcards, devotion cards, old dolls, bears, old toys, tin cookie jars, etc…”

A talkative, friendly person, Isabelle makes customers feel at home in her store, chatting up her goods and keeping an ear to customer conversation that would lead her to a big “fallen angels” find in the future. “A number of my buying customers have something to sell, as well,” she says.

Isabelle and her daughter Ganesha have shops next to each other. Isabelle’s shop has been open for 23 years, and her daughter’s re-sale shop about five years.

Both shops are located in de Jan Breydelstraat nr. 29-31, next to the Castle of the Counts and the Korenmarkt. The Design Museum of Ghent is also located on the same street. For more information, go to www.the-fallen-angels.com.

BELGIAN HARD CANDY ANYONE?
There’s more to Belgian confectionery than chocolate—delicious though it is. For traditional Flemish candy, visit Temmerman (Kraanlei 79)–about eight generations of family members have been making this hard candy. Most popular item is the “cuberdon,” or raspberry nose (red nose filled with sugar), but the tiny shop is stuffed with more than 600 other varieties of sweet stuff. Other goodies include wippers (butter caramel with vanilla sugar), mokken (biscuit with anise) and katrienspekken (hard candy treated with baked sugar).

Another speciality shop is Tierenteyn-Verlent (Groentenmarkt 3, www.tierenteyn-verlent.be), which sells natural mustard made to a centuries-old recipe, and therein lies a tale: The first great evolution in making mustard took place in the region of Dijon where a farmer tried to crush the mustard seeds with a stone. This didn’t work because there was too much oil in the seeds that prevented the machine from working. He poured a bucket of water on the seeds and found out that mustard seeds had to be wet instead of dry to crush them.

This information was brought to Ghent by a soldier of Napoleon’s army who was discussing the mustard principle with an inhabitant of Ghent, Petrus Tierenteyn, who overheard this and decided to start making mustard himself. But instead of yellow seeds used in France, he used dark ones, like in most Germanic countries.

The shop was opened in 1790, and the first products they sold were herbs and groceries. In 1842 Petrus installed a steam-powered machine to give power to the mustard mill. From that time, the shop has been owned by the same family.

BUTCHER’S HALL
In Ghent’s medieval Groot Vleeshuis Butcher’s Hall (Groentenmarkt 7) next to the River Leie, large wooden beams on the interior of the roof show the strength of the building, and from these beams hang Ghent’s special Ganda hams…they look good enough to eat, and you can sample their ham and other specialties in this old hall. There is no fee to walk in, and the building is wheelchair accessible. The Butcher’s Hall is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The hall contains a restaurant called the Promotiecentrum voor Oost-Vlaamse Streekproducten where you can sample East Flemish dishes.

If you’re at Butcher’s Hall, you’re also at the heart of this city of 250,000, and during warm weather, many of the thousands of local university students gather around the Graslei and Korenlei, the old trading harbor, which is now filled with tour boats. In many scenes of Europe, this view along the river, showing many of the old trading houses of the free boatmen and the grain harvesters, is a classic. Another good viewing area of this scene is from St. Michael’s Bridge.

MORE TO SEE
Other top views of Ghent include the Castle of the Counts, an imposing fortress built in 1180. The Gravensteen (the Dutch name for the Castle of the Counts) was built by the counts of Flanders who had castles built in the principal cities of their rule. Because they had to maintain law and order, they moved continuously from city to city and thus had a castle in cities where they wanted to stay for a while. The castle in Ghent is the only one that survived the centuries more or less intact.

The Gravensteen was constructed by Fillips of Alsasse, who was the count of Flanders between 1157 and 1191. He took part in one of the crusades and died during the siege of Akko in the Holy Land. The opening in the form of a cross, above the main entrance gate, proves that he had taken part in a crusade when the castle was built. Next to the castle lies the Veerleplein (Veerle Square), the place where public executions took place.

Another attraction is St. Bavo’s Cathedral in the historic center, the oldest parish church. Astonishingly, it features 22 altars, and the rococo pulpit is a combination of beautiful marble and oak. At the Old Belfry, a dragon scans the horizon, and is perhaps one of the most impressive belfry towers in Flanders. Together with the St. Nicholas tower and the cathedral tower, it dominates the medieval center of the city. The architects were Jan van Aelst and Filips van Beergine. The tower was completed in 1338, when the bells were rung for King Edward II. At the top corners of the towers stone soldiers keep watch (they are copies and only one original is preserved elsewhere).

THE TOWN HALL
The Town Hall at Botermarkt 1 features a rather flamboyant style of Gothic architecture on one side, and a more reserved Renaissance style on the other side. Inside, the same form holds true, with many different styles from different years.

Other attractions in Ghent include the Castle of Gerald the Devil, a 13th century fortress which has been used as a knight’s house, an arsenal, a monastery, a school and a bishop’s seminary. In 1623 it was even a house for the mentally ill.

And if you have a bit more time, visit the House of Alijn, a former house of worship, the Carmelite Friary (which has been restored) and Church, and the Augustine Monastery, founded in 1296.

A new brewery just opened in Ghent as well, with European Traveler a guest on opening night, along with Ghent Mayor Daniel Termont. The Gruut Brewery at Grote Huidevettershoek 10, offers tastes of their delicious beer at the bar within the brewery confines. Mayor Termont is justifiably proud of finding space for the new establishment in his growing city.
www.gruut.be

Where to stay while in Ghent? I stayed at the very convenient Marriott Hotel at Korenlei 10, right in the heart of the historic center and next to the river. It’s next to all the attractions. The hotel features 138 rooms and 12 suites. The glass dome with the large bar-lounge Poppi serves as a cozy meeting place. The hotel’s restaurant is the Korenhuis.
www.marriottghent.com
info@marriottghent.com

Ghent is a city of surprises. Only Ghent residents may know about the “graffiti street,” but that’s another surprise in this city you won’t want to miss.

For more information, go to www.visitgent.be or www.visitflanders.us.

Magical Malta

This Mediterranean country, 58 miles south of Sicily, has everything but a high profile

By Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb

Samuel Taylor Coleridge… Lord Byron… Sir Walter Scott…they all found inspiration in Malta’s legendary landscapes. It was Winston Churchill, however, who summed the place up best when he dubbed it “the tiny rock of history and romance.”

This three-island archipelago, covering only 122 square miles, certainly is tiny. Moreover, it reputedly has the world’s greatest concentration of historic sites. The romance quotient is remarkably high, too; though for centuries, most who came here couldn’t have cared less.

St. John’s Cathedral, Valletta
Courtesy of Malta Tourism Authority/www.visitmalta.com

Malta’s strategic location was a far bigger attraction. Positioned midway between North Africa and the European mainland, it lured empire-builders from the ancient Phoenicians and Romans through to the imperial Brits, who prized Malta so much that they stayed for more than 150 years before pulling out in 1964. In their absence, moviemakers -– including those responsible for Gladiator and Troy -– moved in, drawn by a wealth of heritage sites, a camera-ready coastline and a reliably sunny climate.

Of course, the same attributes that make Malta an ideal filming locale make it an ideal vacation destination as well. As an added bonus, Malta, unlike her more popular neighbors, has an English-speaking population (it’s one of the legacies of Britain’s colonial rule), which means you can roam at will without ever having to worry about language barriers, if you speak English.

KNIGHT FEVER

The logical starting point is the capital, Valletta. The fact that this small harbor city rates as a UNESCO World Heritage site is thanks to the crusading Knights of St. John. After being forced out of the Holy Land by “heathen hordes,” members of the elite order were offered these islands as a new home base in return for one Maltese falcon per year. Happily, the token rent left enough in their coffers to fund a building spree that lasted from 1530 to 1798.

The results are visible in the Grand Master’s Palace, the opulent Manoel Theatre, Fort St. Elmo (a star-shaped citadel that was still fending off naval attacks in the 1940s), and the over-the-top auberges the knights called home. Even more evocative is their crowning achievement, St. John’s Co-Cathedral: a baroque extravaganza filled with such an abundance of gilt work, frescos, mosaics and paintings (among them Caravaggio’s massive “Beheading of St. John”) that it’s hard to find a bare surface.

Because of the density of sites within Valletta, it is not uncommon to see tourists charging brusquely down Republic Street –- from the city gate right to the sea –- frenetically ticking off sites in their guide book. But relaxing also has tangible rewards here. For instance, centuries of foreign occupation have made Malta a culinary crossroad. So you can get a combined course in history and anthropology by merely sitting down to dine!

Interested in eating your way through the entire curriculum? Try breakfasting on Arab-inspired pastries at Caffe Cordina, Valletta’s landmark coffeehouse on Piazza Regina, then ciao-ing down at La Cave, a 16th-century wine cellar converted into an Italian-style lunch spot. Later, take a break for traditional English tea at Hotel Phoenicia’s Palm Court Lounge; and for dinner pull up a chair at Barracuda, a suburban seafood restaurant housed in a 17th- century mansion.

Traditional Maltese costumes
Courtesy of Malta Tourism Authority/www.visitmalta.com

THE FEMININE MYSTIQUE

While the Knights of St. John were Malta’s best known architects, they weren’t the first. That distinction goes to a Neolithic cult that spent more than a millennium building a mystery. Archeological evidence proves that they began work on a series of megalithic temples about 3800 B.C. It also shows that their efforts were dedicated to the Great Mother: a goddess rendered in clay as a voluptuous woman known simply as the “Fat Lady.”

The rest remains an enigma because, inexplicably, the Fat Lady began to sing… By 2000 B.C. those who worshiped her had disappeared. As a result, we’ll likely never understand how a people who hadn’t discovered either metal tools or the wheel managed to construct sophisticated structures, complete with archways and corbelled ceilings, on such a colossal scale. Nonetheless, we may appreciate the fruits of their labors, each of which has its own claim to fame.

On the country’s “big island” (itself named Malta), visitors marvel at the Tarxien Temples, the most richly-decorated of the megaliths; or the twin temples of Hagar Qim and Mnajdra, which are notable for their seaside location. The Hal-Saflieni Hypogeum, conversely, wins top marks for ingenuity: carved from solid rock with antler picks and stone axes, the site extends 36 feet below a suburban street near Valletta. The grand prize, though, goes to the Ggantija Temples on Gozo, a 30-minute ferry ride away.

(left to right) Msida Church; Mdina Cathedral
Courtesy of Malta Tourism Authority/www.visitmalta.com

Predating Stonehenge and the Egyptian pyramids by 1,000 years, they qualify as the oldest freestanding structures on earth. Such antiquity is difficult to grasp (quite frankly, the centuries-old graffiti is sufficient to dazzle most people). Factor in the sheer size of the stones used in construction – some of which stand 20 feet high and weigh 50 tons – and it is almost possible to believe that the Ggantija Temples were, as their name implies, built by a giantess.

MOTHER NATURE’S HANDIWORK

As if the mother lode of archeological sites wasn’t enough, Malta has a slew of natural attractions as well. The coastline is justifiably famous for geological oddities like the Azure Window, a towering stone arch encrusted with fossils. A lot of ink is also spent extolling Maltese beaches, particularly one on Rambla Bay where the mythological sorceress Calypso is said to have seduced Odysseus. But, truth be told, most are more like limestone shelves than sandy strands. So they seldom measure up to U.S standards.

The sunbather’s loss, however, is the diver’s gain because the rough terrain extends well beneath the waterline, creating seductive grottoes, dramatic drop-offs, and bizarre rock formations that beg to be explored. Conditions are optimal, too. The Mediterranean is clear here, with visibility up to 130 feet. Water temperatures rarely drop below 55° in winter, allowing for year-round diving. Plus there are dozens of outfitters happy to supply you with equipment or take you out on an organized dive.

Non-divers can get a glimpse of what lies beneath by signing on for a glass-keeled boat cruise around St. Paul’s Bay, the spot where the apostle was shipwrecked in 60 A.D. Meanwhile, those content to be on the water rather than under it can rent whatever they need at local sports centers. Since all three Maltese islands have them (even Comino, which has no resident population!) getting hold of a kayak, windsurfer or sailing craft is never a problem.

In this part of the world, though, the ultimate boating experience is also the oldest: namely crossing Valletta’s glorious Grand Harbour on a luzzu. These small, vividly-colored vessels have been plying local waters since the Phoenicians’ time and their prows are still painted with the god Osiris’ watchful eyes. Nowadays the luzzu serves as Malta’s unofficial national symbol. And nothing could be more appropriate in a tiny, waterbound land where myth and history remain inextricably bound.

WHERE TO STAY

Tourist zones around Sliema and St. Julian’s are crammed with upscale hotels. Hilton, Westin, Radisson: all the big names are represented. But for the optimal combination of amenities and location, it’s hard to beat Valletta’s Hotel Phoenicia. Although it is poised right at the city gates and has all the accoutrements of a grand hotel (think marble floors, plush upholstery and impeccable service), bargain hunters can snag double rooms there for as little as 90€ a night off season. Those who fantasize about lounging around a Mediterranean villa may prefer to book a vacation rental though Gozo Great Escapes. Heritage properties with private pools start at 595€ per week, so you can enjoy the high life without paying a high price.

Venice: Queen of the Adriatic

by Kristi Nelson Cohen
Photos by author

One thousand five hundred years of recorded history, and the magic of Venice, Italy continues to captivate our hearts and please our artistic eye.

Venice was built on the water, and this love-hate relationship has challenged the city from her beginnings. She reaps the rewards of the sea (salt, fish, trade and now tourism) but suffer from this same sea lapping at her front steps, eroding the foundations of this architectural marvel. Venice is a beauty, simply fascinating and mysterious, she is the “Queen of the Adriatic!”

Venice was founded in 421, a result of residents of the Veneto (now, northern Italy) who were fleeing the wrath of the Goths. These Goths systematically looted and destroyed cities en route to Rome. The refuges set up villages in a marshy lagoon, on tiny uninhabited islands, where they were safe from invasion. This settlement became known as Venice.

BYZANTIUM LINKS
Due to its location on the sea, trade links with Byzantium were created, exporting salt, and importing exotic spices and fabrics from the Orient. Ships were able to dock right at the city’s front steps, and Venice began to grow in importance and wealth.

Although known as a trade center, Venetian merchants wanted to capitalize on the tourist traffic of Christian pilgrims traveling from Europe to Jerusalem. In 828 two brave merchants traveled to Alexandria, Egypt where they stole the body of Saint Mark, the evangelist. A massive cathedral dedicated to Saint Mark would be built, placing Venice on the map for Christians.

The first cathedral completed in 832, was built of wood, and, sadly, burned in 976. A second cathedral was built, and then torn down to make room for a third, massive, brick, marble and stone structure.

Construction on Saint Mark’s Basilica began in 1063 and was consecrated in 1094. This is the very cathedral whose intricate glass and gold mosaics, hand-carved stone pillars and impressive domes welcome visitors today.

Saint Mark’s Cathedral frames the western end of the Piazza San Marco. The Correr Museum (partially housed in the newest wing of the square called The Ala Napoleonica -built by Napoleon in the 18th century) stands on the eastern end of the square. Once completed, this building framed in the piazza.

DRAWING ROOM
After building his new wing, Napoleon Bonaparte said “Now, this is the most beautiful drawing room in all of Europe!” The Piazza is open to the sea on one portion of the Southside, adjacent to the Doge Palace, where two massive marble columns stand at the original entrance to the city.

These two columns were erected in 1172 but originally stood at Constantinople. Atop one column is a carved statue of a winged lion (the symbol for Saint Mark) and atop the other, is Saint Theodore with an alligator (Venice’s earlier Patron Saint.)

Today visitors to this magical city built on the water, arrive via the Ponte della Liberta, a two and a half mile long bridge from the mainland. The original bridge, built in 1846, accommodated train travelers only, but an auto bridge adjacent was completed in 1933.

When arriving in Venice by train, passengers disembark at the Santa Lucia Train Station, built in the mid 19th century and remodeled in the 1950’s. Don’t make the mistake of getting off the train at the Venice mainland station, as it is an expensive cab ride to Venezia.

BREATHTAKING VIEW
The train station’s front steps open up to a breathtaking view of the Grand Canal. The San Simeon Piccolo church (1718-1738) with its green copper dome, sits directly across the canal from the station. It is here, a visitor realizes, just how unique this city is, as you watch all the boats busily traversing the waterways.

There are Vaparettos (water buses) carrying visitors, locals and commuters around the city. There are trash boats, UPS boats, grocery delivery boats, personal boats and, yes, the famous graceful and elegant black gondolas with gondoliers sporting their time-honored black-and white-striped shirt and wide-brimmed straw hat.

All commerce and travel around Venice depends on these waterways. Venice is built of 117 tiny islands, connected by more than 400 walking bridges and more than 150 canals. There’s only one small area of Venice that is even connected by the Ponte della Liberta for auto traffic, parking and drop-off.

A visitor to Venice can explore the tiny streets boarder the small canals, without the distraction of noisy scooters and fast driving Italian automobiles. The city consists of a labyrinth of tiny streets and canals, and exploring these areas away from the primary tourist stops is calmingly quiet, romantic and simply enchanting.

THREE MILES WIDE
It’s safe to walk in Venice, and getting around is easier than you might think. Yes, you can get lost, but watch the street signs pointing to landmarks like the train station (Ferrovia), Saint Mark’s Cathedral or the Rialto Bridge, or even the Grand Canal, which will help you find your bearings. The entire city is less than three miles wide, and getting away from the most popular tourist sights will lead a visitor to explore this city’s numerous historic cathedrals, museums, parks and palaces.

The Vaparetto (water bus) is an excellent way to see the city. An all-day ticket (12 Euros) allows you on and off passage for a 24-hour period. Multiple day (3 and 7) or single excursion tickets are also available. There are Vaparetto stops all around the island and down the Grand Canal.

The Vaparetto routes also take passengers to the lagoon islands of Murano (known for Venetian glass) and Burano (known for its colorful houses and lace making). From the train station, take Line #1 or #82 for a leisurely two mile ride down the Grand Canal, as it snakes its way through the middle of Venice.

Lining the Grand Canal are impressive palaces, that offer a glimpse into life as it was from the Renaissance time to Casanova’s day. Remember, access to these palaces was primarily by water, so the highly-decorated front entrance was always along a canal, rather than the sidewalk in the rear.

PINEWOOD PILES
How could these early residents build such impressive structures on a swampy lagoon island? Pinewood piles were driven 25 feet into the solid clay ground before building work began. These pilings were closely packed, free from oxygen which inhibits decay.

Above the pilings came brick and then stone creating damp-proof foundations. Mortar on the exterior of buildings is a special Venetian style, which is porous enough for moisture to evaporate. (Keep in mind, the canal tides rise each day and canal boat traffic causes waves to lap onto these foundations.) Of course, there is decay, but it all adds to the beauty, history, the weathered Bettina.

Everything in Venice is worth a picture! A camera is a must to record your memories, but most importantly take, the time to stop at one of the many outdoor cafes, where you can sit in the sun, sip an espresso, listen to the water and immerse yourself in this historic time capsule. It’s a memory you will never forget! ET

Kristi Nelson Cohen is the owner and operator of Bella Italia Trips, leading guided tours to Italy. She has visited Venice numerous times.

WHERE TO STAY IN VENICE
Hotel Gardena 3 STARS
www.hotelgardenavenice.it
Phone: 39-041-220 5000
This hotel is conveniently located near Piazzale Roma (auto taxi and bus service for the airport). The hotel is only a 5 minute walk from the train station on a small and relatively quiet canal. This is a small hotel (14 rooms) with an exemplary staff.

Hotel Principe: 4 star
www.hotelprincipevenice.it
Phone: 39-0410220 4000
This hotel is conveniently located adjacent to the train station (to the left northeast) and this former palace hotel borders the Grand Canal. This is a larger hotel with numerous amenities and a full-service restaurant and piano bar.

Both of these hotels have easy access to Vaparetto or private water taxi service. To purchase multiple day Vaparetto tickets or the Venice Card, (combination Vaparetto and Museum admission) log onto www.venicecard.com.

To see a complete time table of rail schedules in and out of Venice: Venzia Santa Lucia, log onto www.raileurope.com.

For travel tips, packaged trips to Venice and photos, log onto www.bellaitaliatrips.com.