The cities belonging to Germany’s “Magic Cities” association, including Berlin, Cologne, Dresden, Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Hannover, Leipzig, Munich and Stuttgart are centers of art, architecture, history and culture. Discover some of the newest additions of designer hotels that these cities offer:
In Berlin, the Soho House concept is being implemented for the first time in Germany. Stylish branches of this chain can already be found in London and New York. In the former “House of Unity” at the foot of Prenzlauer Berg, the hotel has 50 bedrooms. The luxurious fitness area, modern conference rooms and hotel with spacious apartments on the third and fourth floor will be open to all visitors. There will also be an exclusive area for club members only. Another highlight is planned on the second floor, where the office of the former State President of the GDR, Wilhelm Pieck, is being restored to its original condition.
Cologne
In Cologne, one hour from Frankfurt on the Rhine River, there is a new four-star hotel, Art’otel Cologne, in a prime location on the banks of the Rhine. Alongside the trapezoidal design and the colorful windows, the chief attraction of the hotel is the art-inspired interior design with a permanent exhibition of the works of the Korean artist SEO, a former master student of Georg Baselitz. The hotel has 218 rooms with a special twist: the glass walls partitioning the bath or shower rooms are colorfully painted with some of the best of SEO’s designs.
Duesseldorf lives up to its artistic reputation (Academy of Arts) with its own new designer hotels. The Stage 47 Hotel features a completely new, unique design. All 27 suites and rooms are named after famous artists. Their portraits adorn the walls of the individual rooms, creating a special atmosphere. British elegance combined with unpretentious comfort describe the Sir & Lady Astor hotels. Lovingly arranged details and charming decorations as well as discreet, attentive service give guests a feeling of a homecoming.
Dresden, the royal metropolis on the River Elbe in the eastern state of Saxony, has been restored to one of the most beautiful Baroque cities in Europe. Dresden offers beautiful architecture, world-class art and a variety of luxury hotels. A perfect example for the modern reinvention in the classic tradition is the QF Hotel, perfectly located near the Church of Our Lady in the heart of Dresden. The hotel, formerly the “Hotel Stadt Berlin,” has been known since 1804 as one of the best hotels in the city. The 96 rooms combine comfort and luxury with a clean and modern design.
Frankfurt, the financial metropolis in the middle of Germany, is not only the major airport hub, but also a fascinating city where great history meets modernity, world class contemporary art museums and galleries are placed alongside cultural giants such as Goethe. A new highlight of the hotel scene is the Roomers design hotel in the city center. This luxury hotel combines classic lines and innovative design in its 117 rooms.
Hamburg: The designer hotels in this port city combine themed interiors with the comforts and conveniences of the highest standard. Hamburg is also where you’ll find Germany’s highest-rated boutique hotel. The Side Hotel combines luxury and design with aplomb. This award-winning five-star establishment is characterized by a minimalist interior of dark wood and beige elements illuminated by unique lighting.
The George Hamburg holds an entirely different appeal as a four-star hotel with British charm. Rooms furnished in warm colors, an elegant library and an English Garden are all part of its homage to British style.
Hannover, in Germany’s north, has a long history as a royal seat of the English kings and queens, but also as a modern city that hosts many world-class conventions. A special place to overnight is the Sheraton Pelikan Hotel. Located in the former Pelikan factory, one of the most famous brands of fountain pens, the architects integrated the architecture of the old production facilities into the hotel design to create a distinctive loft atmosphere.
Leipzig
Leipzig, one of the most exciting cities in eastern Germany, invites visitors to stay in style in the newly-redesigned Pentahotel. The hotel was given a complete makeover in 2009 by Italian star designer Matteo Thun. The 356 new stylish and comfortable rooms have 32″ flat screen TVs, iPod or game consoles like Nintendo Wii, and other features catering to the needs of the modern and tech-savvy traveler.
Munich in southern Bavaria is known for its royal splendor. The new Louis Hotel that opened in September 2009 fits right in. The name Louis is intended as a reference to the appreciation of beauty as professed by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. Located in the heart of Munich, globetrotters will feel at home in the 72 rooms with carefully selected details and handcrafted furnishings. Natural stone and elegant tiling are reminiscent of the Parisian Metro and make the rooms an unforgettable experience.
Stuttgart
Stuttgart, home to the iconic car brands Mercedes and Porsche, now offers a very special experience for motorsports enthusiast. The V8 Hotel opened last fall and offers everything for high-octane car lovers. Individually designed rooms, antique and unique car models make this hotel a great experience. Its Bauhaus style combines function and comfort.
Travelers who like continental lake districts should set their sights on Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania, Germany’s least densely populated federal state.
More than 1,000 lakes and ponds speckle the countryside terrain. Seven of those are right inside Schwerin’s municipal confines—plenty enough to give this Landeshaupstadt state capital (population 97,100) the appeal of curving shoreline pathways, footbridges, causeways, pleasure-boat docks and south-side Zippendorf’s sandy beach. To reach the city, take an InterCity Deutsche Bahn train from Hamburg, a 57-minute trip (check www.raileurope.com).
Get acquainted with the Schweriner See (biggest of the inner-city lakes) by way of a short Weisse Flotte cruise to Kaninchenwerder and Ziegelwerder, a pair of woodsy nature sanctuaries frequented by 100 species of birds. Even more central, crisscrossed by ferryboats, the oval-shaped Pfaffenteich features spouting fountains and a terrace café.
If this local water world doesn’t satisfy outdoor enthusiasts, you can hike-bike-paddle through the beechwood-forested Warnotal valley, 43 miles northbound toward coastal Rostock-Warnemünde via hidden-away riverside villages.
First though, one of Europe’s most flamboyantly spectacular castles, inspired by Grand Duke Friedrich Franz II, fairly shouts for attention. Its pentagonal bulk stands on a lake (the Burgsee), consciously imitating Château de Chambord in France’s Loire Valley. Rising from medieval fortress foundations on a mini-island accessed by ornamental bridges, ongoing construction and impulsive add-ons produced the neo-Renaissance, gilded-domed Schweriner Schloss, finally completed in 1857. End result, amidst terra-cotta trimmings: a splurge of pinnacles, belfries and 15 turrets. For dramatic impact, floodlights illuminate the ensemble during nighttime hours. Surely an extravagant setup for the state’s Landtag parliamentary offices.
PORTRAITS, PORCELAINS AND OLD MASTERS PAINTINGS For visitors touring the premises, however, bureaucratic doings play second fiddle to the castle’s cultural finery. Not to be missed: galleries devoted to portraits covering 600 years of ancestral dukedom, plus important Mecklenburg landscape paintings. Also here: a lavish oak-paneled banquet hall, chapel and big-windowed orangerie. Inlaid-wood floor patterns and silk brocade wall hangings embellish the ducal throne room.
Watch for the Schloss museum’s displays of furniture, jewelry and weaponry, but especially its sizeable porcelain collection (Meissen, Sèvres, Fürstenberg). Relax in the rococo tea salon or stroll through the flowery Schlossgarten, accentuated by allegorical statues (www.schloss-schwerin.de).
Thanks to past acquisitions made by Mecklenburg Duke Christian Ludwig II and his son Friedrich, the state’s Staatliches Museum Kunstsammlung ranks high as an outstanding fine arts repository. Surrounded by linden groves on Werderstrasse’s northern edge of lakeside Alter Garten greenery, this cultural gem (built 1877-82) resembles a Grecian temple. Gallery-goers ponder Dutch-Flemish “Golden Age” materpieces (Rubens-Rembrandt-Hals-Breugel), but influential German works (Cranach the Elder-Caspar David Friedrich-Max Liebermann-Lovis Corinth) shouldn’t be ignored. Also prominent: Thomas Gainsborough’s full-length, 18th-century Queen Charlotte rendition and (surprise!) a comprehensive French array of dadaist-surrealist Marcel Duchamp canvases.
The Beaux-Arts Mecklenburgisches Staatstheater, another Alter Garten edifice, stages operatic-ballet-theatrical performances—and is “home hall” of the Mecklenburg Court Orchestra, established 448 years ago for eminence as Germany’s third-oldest symphony orchestra, after Dresden’s Staatskapelle and Leipzig’s Gewandhaus.
PANORAMIC VIEWS FROM THE CATHEDRAL TOWER Schwerin’s cityscape emerged in remakably good shape from the economically skimpy GDR decades. So take in the architectural mix. Dom St. Maria und St. Johannes (on Bischofstrasse) exemplifies soaring early-Gothic north-German brick cathedrals. Climbing 219 spiral stairs to the tower rewards sightseers with terrific panoramics from a 320 foot altitude. Evocative tidbit: the 15th century golden cross crowning the steeple was salvaged from Wismar’s war-damaged (and, in 1990, GDR-dynamited) Marienkirche.
On the Marktplatz, you’ll see an unusual kind of Rathaus—basically Gothic but scrunched behind an English mock-Tudor façade. It stands near Schwerin’s 18th century Säulengebäude market hall, fronted by a dozen white Doric columns.
(right) Monument commemorating Henry the Lion, Duke of Saxony, founding father of Schwerin.
In 1707, a planned Schwerin Neustadt community named Schelfstadt came into existence. Narrow streets, clustered half-timbered Fachwerk houses, Baroque Nikolai Church and tidy kitchen gardens comprise a worthwhile visitor attraction. Same for this lakeside setting’s Freilichtmuseum Schwerin-Muess, recalling 18th-19th century rural folkways.
WHERE TO EAT, WHERE TO SLEEP The Sorat organization converted a 1936 wheat warehouse into Speicher am Ziegelsee, where spacious guest rooms complement a 55-seat restaurant (www.speicher-hotel.de). Another Ziegelsee choice, Best Western’s Seehotel Frankenhorst, has boat dock, swimming pool and whirlpool-sauna amenities (www.seehotel.bestwestern.de).
Tops in town for deluxe ambience and Pffanteich vistas, Niederländischer Hof includes a wood-paneled library and mirrored restaurant (www.niederlaendischer-hof.de). Centrally situated Alt Schweriner Schankstuben is a budget category 16-room Gasthaus (www.alt-schweriner-schankstuben.de).
Among recommendable in-town dining options are upscale Weinhaus Uhle (www.weinhaus-uhle.de), beer-pouring Zum Stadtkrug Alstadt Brauhaus (www.altstadtbrauhaus.de), sophisticated Friedrichs, occupying a circa-1801 neoclassical mansion (www.restaurant-friedrichs.com) and ever popular Wallenstein, on a Schweriner See embankment, where patrons seated on the open-air pavilion are treated to views of the castle (www.restaurant-wallenstein.de). For a coffeehouse break, find elegant Café Prag, with sidewalk tables overlooking Schusterstrasse, and Röntgen on the Markplatz.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP Tourist Information Schwerin (www.schwerin.com) is located longside the Rathaus. Or, go to the German National Tourist Office for answers (www.cometogermany.com).
ET: How many times have you taken your kids along with you on a foreign trip, and where?
The kids have been traveling with us since before they could walk (they are 10 and eight now), so on many, many trips to places like the British Isles, France, Italy, Greece, Peru, Costa Rica, Alaska, Florida, Mexico and the Caribbean.
ET: At what age do you feel it’s worthwhile for children to be taken on an overseas trip to Europe? Please explain your reasoning.
I think each age has its own benefits and drawbacks. When they are babies they are easy to travel with (before they can walk) and babies seem to open up a whole new door with the locals…you will meet other parents and talk about universal issues and be introduced to a whole different world than a typical traveler…people love babies! The drawback is babies come with a lot of gear and long overseas flights can be tough with a crier. Toddlers are fun to travel with because you see things entirely differently. They are fascinated by everything and leave nothing unexplored. What we might see as a famous monument a toddler might see as a cool worm inching its way across a stone surface. It gives perspective to things and adds a playfulness you might not get with older kids. However, toddlers can be unpredictable, and you still have to deal with added gear and schedules. My favorite is school-age kids. They still see things differently: our boys spent a good 20 minutes watching an ant carrying a toothpick across the Parthenon last summer, but they are more able to comprehend the historical and cultural significance of destinations. They are learning about the places in school and they bring that with them as well. Plus, they don’t have as much stuff, and are able to carry their own bags and they actually want to spend time with their parents still. The drawback is that they are in school, so homework has to become a part of their trip as well. Pre-teens and teens, depending on what stage they are in, can still be excited by exotic destinations, especially if you put an adventurous spin on it (i.e., zip lining through the Amazon, hiking the Inca Trail), but they are harder to impress and a mopey teenager can put a damper on the vacation for everyone. But, don’t let this stop you, as they will appreciate it later, and it gives them a global view on life that many kids their age don’t have.
ET: Language differences may or may not be a big barrier to children on a trip to Europe when accompanied by their parents, especially when the children are younger. At what age do you recommend children study the language before they travel overseas, and how might they best learn a language, say, when they’re going over for only a week or two? I always encourage travelers of every age to learn at least a few words in the country they are visiting. Saying “s’il vous plaît” in Paris will get you a much warmer reception than instantly assuming everyone knows English. And its fun for kids to practice the language with local kids. It is by no means necessary. There are very few places on earth that you can’t find at least one person who speaks English. However, if you plan on getting far off the beaten path, I would suggest a phrase book. There are lots of smart phone applications available as well now. We usually download one of those and practice a few key phrases in the weeks before the trip and while we are on long plane or train rides.
ET: Are there some things that are vitally important to take with you when you take younger kids along, that you may not find in Europe?
For the most part, you can find anything in Europe that you will need supply-wise. If there is a specialty item that is unique to your child, you may want to bring that…for example, a certain diaper rash cream for kids with sensitive skin, or a formula that your child needs. Also, any prescription medications. But don’t be afraid to try local things as well. Europe has lots of independent companies producing natural kids’ items that you can’t find in the States.
ET: What about the added expense by taking kids with you to Europe? Does it cost a lot extra to travel around, lodge and feed them?
Airline tickets are the main extra expense. Big hotels will be able to accommodate most small families in a regular room without additional expense. Booking a condo/apartment helps save on lodging costs and gives extra room for the while family to spread out. Plus, the kitchen can help save money on eating out. We usually do breakfast and sometimes lunch or dinner in the condo, but we like to eat out as well to get a feel for the local cuisine.
ET: Food. What do you suggest about finding “kid foods”– good, nutritious food at reasonable prices when overseas?
Go where the locals go. You don’t need to spend a lot to taste the local cuisine. The kids love street stalls. too. Just make sure to ask for guidance from locals to avoid getting sick. Crepe stands in Paris, panini cafes in Italy, pasty shops in England…all these foods let you get a taste of real local foods at a fraction of the cost of a sit-down restaurant.
ET: Can you recommend some special “kid-friendly” hotels in Europe, or cities or attractions that seem to especially cater to kids?
It’s not always the cities you would think that are exciting for kids. There doesn’t have to be an amusement park to interest kids. Our kids were fascinated by Venice, a city many people would not think of taking kids to. They loved taking the boats up and down the canals and wandering the tiny streets. Big cities are fun for kids, too. Paris and London are on the top of our kids’ destinations list. They love riding the tube and double decker buses and visiting big time attractions like the Eiffel Tower. Really anything can be interesting to kids if you prep them for it. Learn about a destination before you go. The kids learned about gladiators and Rome before we went to Italy, and it really came to life in Roman ruins all over Europe. They had a blast pretending to be gladiators in colosseums from Wales to Rome. Walks Inside Rome had a great tour with history on a kid’s level and a visit to Gladiator School…the kids learned from “real gladiators” how to fight with swords and defend against wild animals. Very fun! Many attractions have kid versions of audio tours, scavenger hunts, or something to engage kids. Just ask. If they don’t, you can always make your own. When the kids were younger (ages 5 and 7) we visited the Louvre. I was worried about keeping them interested, so I printed out pictures of some of the more famous exhibits and sent them on an art treasure hunt. They had a blast, and even enlisted the security guards to help them, and we enjoyed extra time at the museum.
As far as hotels go, apartment rentals are always great with kids. The apartments are often in local neighborhoods, so you get a better feel for local life. We rented apartments from Frenchy Rentals in Paris, a villa in Tuscany from Italy Perfect and apartments in Rome from Parker Villas. When we are staying in a hotel, we try to stay in family-owned, smaller hotels. These are usually located in the more culturally rich or historically significant parts of town. A lot of it is also about location. We don’t want to have to take a 20 minute taxi everytime we want to go into the old part of town. We like to be where the action is.
ET: Teenage tensions can be a problem. How do you handle this on a long European trip?
Lots of luck. Just kidding. Teenagers are a different breed, and since I don’t have any yet, I can’t give too much advice here. What I have noticed with my niece and nephews is that when they are out of their element (like you are in a foreign culture), some of that attitude fades away. I went on a trip to New York with my 15-year-old niece last year, and we had a blast. I asked for her input on everything we did, and I think that helped a lot. Let the kids (of all ages) help plan what you are doing. That helps them feel invested in the trip ahead of time and keeps them engaged while you are on the road.
ET: What foreign trips/areas might you not want to take your kids on and why?
I don’t think there are any areas I would say don’t take kids accept for areas I would not go myself because of dangers or violence. I guess there are some third world countries for which I would want to edit the itinerary. It would be very hard for the kids to comprehend such abject poverty. I might also stay away from long trips in which passengers are contained and there are no breaks. Kids who are cooped up and bored for long periods of time can get irritating fast.
Many people ask if I am scared to travel because of coverage they see on television. Fortunately, I have never felt any hostility from locals stemming from my being an American. In fact, quite the opposite. I have always been welcomed with open arms. When we traveled through the Middle East I was not sure what to expect, but everyone was very warm and welcoming. What you see in the news is not always how it is in real life. I would be cautious, of course, as things can happen when you travel, just as they could at home. Be aware of what is going on around you, ask the locals for perspective and trust your instincts.
ET: What do you suggest on a European trip if the parents want to occasionally go out alone in the evening and the kids need to go to bed. Who watches the kids?
Many hotels offer babysitting service. I have never used them as I would not feel comfortable leaving my kids with a stranger. However, I hear stories from other people who did this, and it turned out just fine. I would say that for me, the point of a family vacation is to spend time with your kids. At some point, they won’t want to hang around with us anymore, so I try to cash in on all the time I can with them now. Schedules are a bit more flexible when we travel. So, the kids stay up later which is just fine as the town squares in the evening are packed with families strolling and kids playing. It’s a time where we really get to know the locals, and the kids love it!
ET: What do you think is the most important thing to remember when going to Europe with your kids?
Take time to absorb it all. Often times when we travel (and I am just as guilty of it as anyone else), we pack in as much as we can. There’s so many wonderful things to see and do in Europe. And we end up moving so fast that we don’t take time to just sit and soak it all in. Sitting in the town square, watching life go by, is a great tradition in southern European countries, and it’s a great time to reflect and just spend time with your kids…time bonding and re-connecting with one another, which is really what it’s all about anyway.
Travel With Kids takes viewers on an educational journey through each destination visited, presenting history and culture in an innovative way, as well as showing the kid-friendly things to do and see. Whether planning a trip, or just wanting to learn more about a destination, Travel With Kids will entertain the whole family. For more information on Travel With Kids, or to purchase a DVD visit www.TravelWithKids.tv
Photos courtesy Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau
Designer hotels: everything started in Paris a few years ago with the trend toward boutique hotels.
The term is used for small capacity hotels with three or four stars, which offer clients a personalized and attentive welcome and a particularly refined and cozy decor.
Following the success of this type of hotel, certain hotels decided to take the concept further by entrusting their decor to interior designers and architects and providing their guests with a contemporary atmosphere: designer furniture, use of new materials, the latest technologies and contemporary works of art.
Some hotel groups have made this design orientation their speciality. This is the case for the Murano Hotels and Resorts, which owns the Murano Urban Resort Hotel and the Kube Rooms and Bars Hotel in Paris. The first, located between République and Bastille on the edge of the Marais, drew attention with its immaculate white design aesthetic, its bar lounge with colored seats, its lobby with a huge contemporary fireplace and its guest rooms which mix high-tech and state-of-the-art design. The second, located in the north of the capital, applies the same formula to the design of its guestrooms and offers an out-of-the-ordinary experience with its bar completely made of ice.
The Astotel group also offers 15 Parisian hotels where the designer touch captivates guests in search of a contemporary atmosphere. This is the case at Le 1223 Elysees, a hotel where beautiful materials (Swarovski crystal, marble, etc.) provide a contemporary feel, or at the Hotel Joyce, which combines the latest technology gadgets (iPod stations) with products answering to the needs of today’s travelers (a range of organic products), all in a contemporary decor that play on the codes of traditional hotel charm and character (outlines of bed heads and features of interior decor drawn on the bedroom walls).
The Relais de Paris group reinvents the classic Relais style with a contemporary, designer version. The BLC Design Hotel offers an immaculate white setting in the Charonne district. The 29 guest rooms all have a monochrome look, combining refined furniture with black and white photographs.
At the Standard Design Hotel, not far from the lively Bastille District, black and white begins in the reception areas. The young designers invited to decorate the hotel have created a contemporary, trendy place. The Color Design Hotel, between Bastille and the Gare de Lyon, lives up to its name and offers guests lively colors with special touches in the guest rooms and bathrooms. The vaulted breakfast room follows the same concept with a contrast provided by exposed stonework. Located in the picturesque Montmartre district, the Chat Noir Design Hotel plays the designer card while respecting the traditional Parisian style of this area. The decoration amusingly evokes the shadow plays that gave the Théâtre du Chat Noir its reputation, while offering refined white furniture complemented by warm orange and brick tones.
The wave of designer hotels can be found in all districts of Paris, each revealing a leading concept and specific style of decoration. Another example in the Latin Quarter is the Five Hotel. This hotel’s concept is the awakening of the five senses: smell with fragrances created just for the Five, touch with the use of sensual materials in the guestrooms and particularly the ultra-contemporary reinterpretation of Chinese lacquer, taste with a breakfast of the best Viennese pastries from the Monge bakery, sight with the fibre-optic lighting effects and luminous atmosphere of the bedrooms, and hearing appeased by the hotel’s silence.
In the same neighborhood, the Hotel Design de la Sorbonne has had a makeover and offers an upscale and elegant designer stay. Dark wallpaper, luxury fabrics and a contemporary photography exhibition on every level set the tone of the establishment.
The Hotel Le A, in the heart of the fashion district between the Champs-Élysées and the rue Saint Honore, mixes an ultra-designer look of the interior decor with a cozy feel in the reception areas designed to look like those of a private apartment, with a contemporary-style fireplace, comfortable couches, lounge with a library filled with art books, a bar under a 19th century glass roof and 25 sumptuous guestrooms where a refined sober style contrasts with bold contemporary drawings decorating the walls.
In a more understated style, design is also honored at the Hotel Arvor Saint-Georges, in the peaceful 9th arrondissement. The 30 guestrooms offer the tranquility of a contemporary and convivial private residence. In the 14th arrondissement, LeFabe Hotel stands out from the rest with its 17 guestrooms, each offering an original atmosphere. The names of the rooms (Mona Lisa, Orchidées, Together, etc.) are an indication of the designer decoration offered to guests. In the 16th arrondissement, Mon Hotel, a small establishment of 37 guestrooms a few steps from the Champs-Élysées, boasts luxury designer decor with the use of materials like leather, Alcantara fabric, and wood.
With trendy Croatia one of the top travel destinations these days, I learned quickly that everyone wanted to go with me when I visited this small southeastern European country, tucked between Bosnia, Hungary and Slovenia.
Who wouldn’t want to go to the country that invented the sophisticated cravat, the forerunner of the modern tailored necktie and bow tie, or was now producing a truckload of good white wines, or was bounded by the romantic Danube? Although this land still bears the scars of the Bosnian War which affected the region between 1992 and 1995, the country is gradually moving on.
The warmth of the Croatian people, the abundant agricultural possibilities of the land, and the natural beauty of the country’s rocky mountains and green woodlands are only now being discovered, and touted in national tourist publications.
Some eye-opening travel gems await those who venture into the awakening interior.
National Theater in Zagreb
CONTINENTAL CROATIA AND ZAGREB Croatia is shaped somewhat like a horseshoe, with one side extending 1,100 miles along the Dalmatian Coast, with seaside Dubrovnik at one end and Croatia’s third largest city, Rijeka, at the other. The entire country of 4.2 million people is only as large as West Virginia, or just 21,829 square miles.
While I wasn’t going to where most tourists journey—the coast and the Adriatic Sea— the interior of the country presented its own set of unique opportunities for exploration. I started my venture at the capital, leafy-green Zagreb, which sits on the historic and political threshold between Eastern and Western Europe.
Sitting on the Pannonian Plain as well as on the edge of the Dinaric Alps, this Hapsburg-inspired city has been inhabited for centuries by people coming from all over Europe, thus insuring a rich cultural heritage. It is the home of Croatia’s parliament, government and its president. It sits next to the lush, forested slopes of Mount Medvednica, often referred to by the name of its summit, Sljeme.
The city’s elegant facades, a horseshoe of green spaces—eight green squares created by Milan Lenuci in the 1880s— and a growing contemporary scene, are attracting the curious traveler; more may come soon as well, as Croatia and thus Zagreb are poised to join the European Union in 2013. Known as Vienna’s little sister, Zagreb is smallish—about one million residents—which makes it easy to walk around without a car, meet the populace, and indulge in the city’s cultural and historical attractions, and growing nightlife. I did a little of each.
Palace Hotel, Zagreb
FLIGHT TO ZAGREB My flight on Lufthansa from Frankfurt landed at Zagreb airport outside of town, where I hopped a cab to the Palace Hotel, located in an Art Nouveau palace in the center of the city. It was the first hotel in Zagreb, opened in 1907, across from a beautiful green park and where the likes of Orson Welles and actress Sophia Loren have stayed. I figured I was in good company.
Finished in elegant woods, the hotel’s lobby is inviting, and glass cases filled with historical artifacts give the visitor information about the history of this four-story gem. Zagreb was on the route of the famous King of Trains, the Orient Express, where Hercule Poirot solved his most famous case, where Alfred Hitchock’s The Lady Vanishes was staged, and on which James Bond rode from Istanbul to London in the movie From Russia With Love. Everyone loves a train with a good mystery, and Zagreb uses these connections to promote its mystique as a city. The train station is just a few blocks from the Palace Hotel, and an old black steam locomotive decorates the lawn on one side of the station.
Like all major cities, Zagreb is divided into areas, but the Upper Town (located on a hill) and the Lower Town, where streets are laid out in a simplistic and government-mandated style, are two that most visitors will learn quickly. You could cover the town’s main attractions in two days, but a third day will offer the best impression of the city.
Zagreb’s main square, referred to as Jelacic plac, is a large, busy place with adjacent Ilica Street housing many shops. Croatians use the main square, just down from the hillside settlements of Kaptol and Gradec, to make connections with friends, to catch one of the many street trams pulsating here and there on tracks that run through the streets, or use the square’s large clock as their time-keeper. There are 37 clocks like this throughout the city, all maintained by the sixth generation watchmaker Lebarovic Dalibor, who has manufactured more than 200 public clocks in this country.
The main square, featuring a large statue of Croatian hero Ban Josip Jelacic, has been the commercial heart of the city since 1641. It is so large that fairs used to be held here; the buildings around the square date from the 19th century, and feature Biedermeier, Art Nouveau and post-modernism architectural styles.
TWIN-SPIRED CATHEDRAL The city’s twin-spired landmark structure in the Kaptol neighborhood is the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Holy Virgin Mary, created by Hermann Bolle in the 19th century after an earthquake badly damaged the original church. In the 15th century it was the furthest outpost of Christianity. Beautiful marble side altars, statues and pulpit adorn the inside, as does the life-like tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac by Ivan Meštrović. You can’t miss it: it sits dead-center in front of the church near the choir.
While you’re there, notice the adjacent overpowering bishop’s palace with large turrets on the corners. The accompanying lawn features large colored Easter eggs during this season. Not far away, the fortified 13th century Lotrscak Tower in Upper Town, signals 12 o’clock by loud cannon fire and trailing white smoke, as it has every day since 1877. The bells of the stone tower used to summon residents back into the town gates at night before they closed. After watching this display of time-keeping, wander a few steps down the hill to the family-owned Pod grickim topom restaurant, where you’ll be treated to large portions of pork, beef and spaetzle while overlooking the city.
A funicular, the shortest in the world at 216 feet in length, takes you up to Upper Town in 55 seconds. Departing every 10 minutes, it accommodates 28 people each trip. Once powered by steam, the brilliant blue funicular pre-dates horse-drawn trams by a whole year.
At colorful St. Mark’s Church in St. Mark’s Square, you’re in the heart of Upper Town; the square used to be Gradec’s main market area. The 13th century Church of St. Mark’s is a Romanesque structure with Gothic arched ceilings and 15 Parler family statues that stand in the southern portal. The colorful roof is decorated with coats of arms of the triune Kingdom of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia, as well as the city of Zagreb.
BUSTLING DOLAC MARKET The Dolac open-air market is a must-see, must-do free attraction. Close by the Cathedral, sun-ripened fruit, fresh fish including octopus trucked in from the coast overnight, colorful vegetables and hearty meats, nuts and fragrant spices are sold every day of the week. Known as the “belly of Zagreb,” the market dates from the early 1900s.
Croatia is a religious country, with about 77% of the residents Roman Catholic. The Upper Town is entered via the Kamenita vrata or the Stone Gate, which is the only city gate still remaining. It was built in the Middle Ages, and today acts as a Christian way station for anyone wanting to give thanks, or to make requests. The small chapel inside, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, patron saint of Zagreb, houses a painting of Mary miraculously saved from a fire in 1731. At all times of the day, this small chapel—complete with several wooden benches— attracts worshippers and the curious.
Stop by Zagreb’s oldest pharmacy on Kamenita ulica (Stone Street) where you’ll discover a two-story white building which has housed this business since 1355. And built along the former Medvescak Creek is Tkalca, Zagreb’s colorful downtown street where you’ll find a plethora of nightclubs, small boutiques, traditional shops and cafes. Stop by the Bulldog, an upscale downtown bar where the drinks flow until 3 a.m. from Wednesdays to Saturdays. The decor features aviation and nautical themes, with propeller-shaped ceiling fans, and there’s a mezzanine observation level. A bowl of shelled peanuts to accompany a cool drink doesn’t cost much, either.
SAMOBOR If you’re heading into the countryside, Samobor is one of Croatia’s best-preserved villages. The light rain and mist which covered the surrounding hills and the Gradna River that flows through them, presented a magical Sunday morning welcome. Local villagers presented their farm-fresh cheeses and honey in the market square, and smiles and free samples were plentiful, as merchants waited until the packed-to-the-rooftop Catholic church let out.
Many other locals were sitting in the Slasticarnica U Prolazu restaurant, having their Sunday coffee and Samoborska Kremsnita, a custard-colored 3 in.-high cream pastry square, a rich-flavored local tradition. Others were strolling down the path on the outskirts of town near the river, enjoying the budding of colorful flowers and trees, and soaking up the fresh fragrances of spring.
Samoborska Dremsnitz – a delicious dessert
At the Town Museum, check out the intricately-woven folk costumes. Another option is a woodland stroll to the hillside park of Anindol that will take you to the ruins of Samobor’s 13th century castle, which you can see on the hill as you drive down the narrow road into town.
Samobor is also noted for Bermet, a local version of vermouth. This fortified wine, flavored with citrus fruits and aromatic herbs, goes well with crackers and the local Mustarda, a rich brown mustard with a fruity tang. Both the Bermet and Mustarda have been made for generations by the local Filipec family. A tour of their small facility and their shop, guarded by the family dog, will add extra interest to your visit.
Just west of Samobor are the Samobor Hills, a group of forested smooth-topped mountains which make great one-day hikes. The highest point is the 2,883-foot-high Samoborsko gorje, a two-hour walk from Soiceva kuca, a popular restaurant and recreation spot.
VARAZDIN If you have time to explore Croatia further, a trip to Varazdin near the Slovenian border is worthwhile. With its 18th century Baroque churches and the oldest rathaus in Europe, Varazdin is a jewel. First founded because of its Stari Grad, a well-preserved 16th century castle, the town today evokes “oohs” and “ahhs” as visitors discover the Baroque facades. On a clear, sunny day, the town is spectacular.
The city, in fact, was the capital of Croatia in 1756, but fire destroyed 50% of it 20 years later. This gave the city a chance to rebuild in Baroque style, and thus today Varazdin enjoys the benefits of tourism. The city first came to light in 1181 in a document sealed by King Bela III of Hungary. It was granted the right as a free royal city 33 years before Zagreb, the locals are fond of pointing out.
The Town Hall (Gradska Vijecnica) has been the seat of the city’s town council since 1513, making it one of the oldest buildings of its type in Europe. You can sit out in front of the hall on the main square to soak in the sun, or have a coffee, or watch the changing of the guard by soldiers in their tall, black-tasseled hats between May and September.
Zlatko Puntijar shows world’s smallest Croatian recipe book at Stari Puntijar Restaurant
The Cathedral of the Assumption with its magnificent interior became the seat of a diocese in 1997, and is noted as the first Baroque structure in town. Known for its acoustics, the cathedral is used during the Varazdin Baroque Evening Festival in September, where both domestic and foreign soloists and ensembles perform.
Take your camera with you to this picturesque town. The Varazdin countryside produces “Varazdin Sauerkraut” (sour cabbage), pumpkin seed oil, honey, goat and sheep cheeses, and fruit wines with a low alcohol content.
SLAVONIA BROD Stretching to the southeast of the country, Slavonski Brod, on the north bank of the Sara River, and bordering Bosnia, features the star-shaped Brodska Tvrdjava (Brod Fortress). With bastions and moats designed to protect against Ottoman soldiers, this huge embattlement could accommodate 4,000 soldiers. The local peasants built the fortress under a forced work program.
The town features the remains of a number of industries, including a large factory where Croatian steam locomotives were once manufactured. Past examples of the plant’s engines dot the factory entrance.
Memorial dedicated to Bosnian war victims
OSIJEK Moving further into the interior of Croatia and to the east, the city of Osijek is the largest town in Slavonia. Located on the Drava River, the town was founded by the Romans in the first century AD, and after a number of battles, Osijek became the administrative center of the rich agricultural region of Slavonia.
During the battle for independence, it came under siege for several months. A long promenade leads along the river to a large modern suspension bridge which connects Gornji Grad to Copacabana, the town beach.
Close by Osijek is Kopacki Rit Nature Park, a large tract of marshland with many varieties of birds. Located between the Drava and Danube rivers is part of a region called Baranja, with abundant fertile farming land.
For an excellent meal, stop at the cozy restaurant Kormoran, located in the park. Some foods are especially prepared in a large black caldron over an open wood fire, and served at your table. You won’t go away hungry.
CROATIA’S VINEYARDS If you enjoy wine, and touring vineyards, Croatia is “ripe” for the picking. Many of the wines I tasted—both reds and whites— were excellent. Croatia’s vineyards started around the 6th century B.C. in the coastal regions, and as far back as the 2nd century in the interior.
I especially liked the white wines such as Grasevina (pronounced: gra-she-vi-na), a wine cultivated in the countries along the Danube. Light and refreshing, it tastes different than Riesling, and can have slightly different flavors based on soil and sunlight. A bottle of Grasevina found its way home with me. Ice wines are also popular here, and are often awarded gold medals in competition. A 2009 Pinot Crni with 16.5% alcohol content also was a good wine, perfectly balanced.
Many of the vineyards I visited offer richly decorated banquet halls, capable of serving complete multi-course meals for up to 100-150 people, along with a variety of wines from their cellars. Winery Kutjevo, with the oldest wine cellar in southeastern Europe (dating from 1232); Belje, the biggest; and Ilocki Podrumi at Principovac all offer a variety of excellent wines. You might find bottles from these vitners in the U.S., although not much is exported.
Croatia is making a solid effort to produce and distribute their many wine varieties, and Zagreb hosts an annual Wine Festival that’s a great wine-tasting opportunity and is packed with visitors.
I found continental Croatia refreshing because of its simplicity, its natural beauty, its tasty foods and wines and its unassuming people. I expect Croatia’s interior to be one of the “hot” travel destinations in the years ahead.
As they say in Croatia, “Zivjeli” — a toast to your good health!
For more information about travel to Croatia, go to: www.croatia.hr/en
European Traveler 