Culture – European Traveler

Best Art Museums & Architecture for a Weekend in Barcelona

By Megan Kudla

Barcelona is a haven for art, especially being home to some of Antoni Gaudí’s most famous architectural wonders. The city also has world-class museums, with works that date back from the medieval times to more contemporary eras. If you’ve only got one weekend in Barcelona, but want to see as much art as possible, here’s a guide to the some of the best art museums and architecture tours.

Tip: If you’re extending your trip, you can purchase the ArticketBCN pass, which gets you entry into 6 of the top art museums across the city for a flat fee of 38€. (Plus, it comes in the form of a little red passport that gets stamped along the way. How cute is that?)

Sagrada Familia
The pinnacle piece of architecture in Barcelona, the Sagrada Familia, should be first on your list. It’s also the most popular attraction in the area—when you are booking your flight and your hotel, go ahead and book this, too. Tickets range from 26€ to 40€. Marvel at the intricate sculptures adorning the outside and the mesmerizing colors that dance below the stained glass on the inside of this architectural monster, which is still under construction to this day.

Tip: The beginning and end of the self-guided tour are located on the outside of the Sagrada Familia, where you can admire the intricacies of Gaudí’s designs that display the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. This means that you should bring a jacket if you’re visiting during the fall or winter months.

Gaudí’s designs at the Sagrada Familia feature intricate sculptures.

Park Güell
The second most popular Gaudí architectural site is probably Park Güell, a maze of green
spaces, viaducts, terraces, colorful mosaics, and more. Tickets are 18€ starting in 2025, and
you’ll also want to buy these ahead of your trip. As soon as you enter the park, you can
download an app with a helpful map that will direct you to the different parts of the park to
enjoy at your own leisure.

Tip: The Gaudí House Museum, where he lived from 1906 to 1925, is a separate ticket you can add on to your park entrance fee.

The beautiful Park Güell offers much to explore.

Casa Batlló
The final Gaudí tour to book in Barcelona would be Casa Batlló. Gaudí was commissioned by D. Josep Batlló in the early 1900s to redesign this building that would have been otherwise demolished. His inspiration pulled heavily from water, paying heed to organic shapes in the structure, as well as how natural light played with color upon ascending the multiple levels. Budget around 30€ for a general ticket.

Tip: Book an early time slot; the rooms are small, with lots of visitors clamoring to see this one-of-a-kind house. Then, if you find yourself particularly interested in the Gaudí style, put Casa Milá and Casa Vicens on your list.

Gaudí’s redesign of the Casa Batlló building is water-inspired.

Palau de la Música
The shorter, slightly cheaper tour of the Palau de la Música was worth the time and money. Tickets are 22€, or only 16€ if you are over 65 or under 35 years old. The guided tour pairs you with an expert who will take you through the beautiful Lluís Millet Room and balcony, the busy foyer (which doubles as a restaurant-cafeteria), and, of course, the colorful and breathtaking Concert Hall.

Tip: The concert schedule is filled with opera, flamenco, coral, symphonic acts, and more. Plan a tour in the afternoon, then buy tickets to see the venue live and in action in the evening.

Palau de la Música’s Concert Hall is an exquisite venue for musical events.

Museu Picasso
Part of the ArticketBCN, Museu Picasso was one of my favorite art museums. Not only does it house around 5,000 of Picasso’s works, but it’s a great showcase of the wide range of his
artistic talents. The cubism that Picasso is known for is not the only style he’s mastered. When visiting, you’ll get to see work from all periods of his life, from the classical work when he began studying art, to his Blue Period, and even ceramics.

Tip: It’s right next door to the Modern Contemporary (Moco) Museum and across the small
street from the Museu Etnològic i de Cultures del Món. Why not make it a full day, with a stop at the corner Brunells pastry shop in between?

Museu Picasso features more than 5,000 of Picasso’s works.

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya is as much an architectural site as it is an art museum. Located in the Parc de Montjuïc, you won’t miss the towering Palau Nacional on top of a huge hill. Take the many steps (or public escalators!) to the top, and hours of browsing artwork is at your fingertips. A top highlight is the collection of Romanesque art with murals that date back to the 11th to 13th centuries.

Tip: This is also a great stop for an aerial view of the city and mountains. If you’ve been looking for a photo opp, here it is!

Artwork and photo opps abound at Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya.

You can make a whole weekend surrounding just the art and architecture of Barcelona.
Between galleries, house tours, and live performances, you’ve got a city that’s filled with
centuries of artistic feats that now make this European city one of the most sought-after tourist destinations. Plan ahead, but don’t overbook each day—you’ll want time to savor each special site.

Christmas Markets in Luther Country

In Germany’s Luther Country, Advent means Christmas markets. The crisp winter air is filled with the smell of ginger and nutmeg, signaling the arrival of Stollen, a special Christmas cake, and Glühwein, mulled wine. Cobbled streets and squares, lined with half-timbered medieval houses, provide the backdrop for dozens of wooden stalls, selling wooden toys and Christmas decorations, handcrafted gifts and seasonal foods, such as Zimtsterne (cinnamon stars) and Lebkuchen (soft, spiced cookies).

Brass bands play and choirs sing carols, often written by Martin Luther himself. In fact, many Christmas traditions were supposedly instigated by the Protestant reformer 500 years ago. Legend insists one dark and starry night, Luther was touched by the beauty of the pine trees. On returning home, he cut down a tree, took it into his house and decorated it with candles. As well as the Christmas tree, Luther is credited with the idea of Christkind, the Christ child bringing presents. (Kris Kringle is still familiar in many U.S. homes). Concerned that Saint Nicholas, who delvered his gifts on December 6, was too popular, Luther came up with an alternative to “Santa Claus”: a golden angel, with wings and a crown.

Here are just some of Luther Country’s most authentic Christmas markets.

(clockwise) Christmas Stollen; Lebkuchen; Zimtsterne

ERFURT
November 27 – December 22
Although Erfurt’s 162nd Christmas Market spreads throughout the old town, the focus is on the Domplatz, the vast Cathedral Square. The 200 market booths sell everything from Thuringian bratwurst (Germany’s favorite grilled sausage) and Christmas cookies to handmade toys or traditional, handmade Christmas decorations. Children love the giant Ferris wheel,

the 90-foot-tall Christmas tree covered in candles, and the 40-foot-high wooden pyramid. Most of all, they love the nativity scene, set in a fairytale forest, complete with near life-sized, hand-carved figures. Gardeners should not miss the floral Christmas exhibition in the underground vaults of the cathedral.

LUTHERSTADT WITTENBERG
November 28 – December 23
In the market square, a statue of Luther looks out across the Christmas market, with its stalls decorated with pine boughs, lights and Christmas ornaments. In the air is the scent of mulled wine and roasted almonds. Across the square is the Marienskirche (St. Mary’s Church), where Luther preached. Special are the town’s Adventshöfe, medieval courtyards, where local artists and craftsmen sell their wares. In the Cranach Courtyard, named for Luther’s great friend and painter Lucas Cranach, the weekend of December 8 and 9 features weavers and knitters, wood carvers and basket makers.

QUEDLINBURG
November 30 – December 23
With more than 1,300 half-timbered houses, Quedlinburg is one of Europe’s most romantic cities. And during the Christmas Market, strolling along the cobbled streets is like walking through history. One unique event is the “Advent in den Höfen” (December 1-2, 8-9, 15-16), when some 20 private courtyards open to sell special Christmas gifts, often handmade. Another highlight is the world’s largest Advent calendar! At 4:30 p.m. every afternoon for 24 days, children look out for the star that marks the house where the next scene in the Advent calendar will appear. When the door opens, fairytale characters appear and dance, sing or play for spectators.

WERNIGERODE
November 30 – December 22
Dominated by its 12th-century castle, Wernigerode’s annual Christmas market has a fairy story backdrop: a 15th-century town hall, half-timbered houses and a 35-foot-tall Christmas tree. The stalls serve traditional food and drink, hand-made toys and ornaments for the home; evenings are filled with concerts of seasonal music. From December 15 to January 8, 2013, the Castle hosts its own special Winter Market. Children meet a fairy at 3 p.m. and receive presents from St. Nikolaus (Santa Claus) at 4 p.m. They also love to ride the Christmas train in a historic carriage, pulled by a steam engine through the snow-covered countryside.

LAUSCHA
December 1-2 and 8-9
Each Christmas, this small town in a steep, wooded valley in the Thuringian Forest, plays a vital role in every American home. This is where the first glass Christmas tree ornaments were created in 1847. In 1880, F. W. Woolworth, the five-and-dime store pioneer, brought a batch of these glass balls to his store in Pennsylvania, and the rest is history. The tradition continues in Germany’s glassblowing capital, where you can watch artisans creating works of art at Lauscha’s Museum of Glass Art. At Lauscha’s annual Christmas “Kugelmarkt,” or glass bauble market, you can buy these handmade decorations in all shapes and colors.

WARTBURG CASTLE, EISENACH
December 1-2, 8-9, 15-16
Wartburg Castle is where Martin Luther, the Protestant reformer, changed history when he translated the New Testament into German. And this UNESCO World Heritage Site just outside Eisenach is still a massively impressive fortress. At Christmas, however, a historic Christmas Market transforms the castle, with artists and street performers, craftsmen and knights. Meet candle makers and barrel makers, rope makers and lantern makers, minstrels and puppeteers. With cheerful booths and medieval decorations, this is a like a trip back in time. And the medieval food is delicious, from roast apples and honey to mead.

When in Austria, Look for Dirndls

Photos courtesy Austrian Tourist Board

What is a Dirndl? If you have seen the movie “The Sound of Music,” you already know the basic elements that make up a Dirndl: skirt, bodice, apron and blouse. Simple, right? Far from it!

There is a veritable science to Dirndl cuts, fabric patterns, colors and embroidery.The main elements that make up a Dirndl are the wide skirt attached to a “Leiberl,” or fitted bodice, an apron (often with a hidden pocket) and a short Dirndl blouse.

The skirt usually starts at the waist or a little lower. You can choose between various lengths, depending on current fashion trends. The bodice used to be a separate item, but since the 1930s is sewn to the skirt. It comes in many different styles: with a high or low, round or square neckline, it is fastened with buttons, hooks, or ribbons.

An important element is the Dirndl blouse. It is generally very short (ends above the waist), with long, short or puffed sleeves. It can have many different necklines and is usually made of white cotton or linen. The Dirndl blouse accentuates the style of your Dirndl: Choose between delicately hand-embroidered pieces, blouses with extravagant ruffles and lace, or simple ones with straight sleeves.

Finally, there is the apron. Formerly worn to protect the dress underneath, it is now a purely decorative item. There are aprons for every-day wear and aprons for festive occasions which are usually of a more elegant fabric than the simple linen or cotton ones. Before you tie the knot—be sure to check on which side to place it—otherwise you might unwittingly send out the wrong message.

Different combinations of these elements make up the traditional Dirndl. There are different Dirndl styles for different occasions, even Dirndl styles that tell which region in Austria the wearer is from. With the recent “Dirndl Renaissance,” there are countless downright “unorthodox” styles that experiment with different fabrics, cross cultural references and punk elements.

If all these options seem daunting at first, remember: the most important thing is to have fun with the many different colors and patterns, and to choose a Dirndl that fits your personality.

FROM PEASANT GARB TO HIGH FASHION
The Dirndl has evolved from its humble origins centuries past as the work garb of peasants to a modern-day fashion superstar. With its feminine silhouette, its versatility and simple elegance, the Dirndl is a fashion “evergreen.” But where does it come from, and how did it get so popular?

Allegedly, the short Dirndl blouse we know today was originally a long shirt. Way back when, the shirt was actually one of the “basics” in the contemporary wardrobe of the rural population. Women wore a bodice, or even just a tightly wound cloth as an undergarment for warmth and support. Aprons were tied around the shirt to protect it from stains and dust. When people came home from the fields, the apron was simply switched to a different one for house work, or one for festive occasions.

Eventually, for reasons of practicality and perhaps vanity, the shirt was sometimes worn underneath the bodice and so the Dirndl was born. For a long time it was the garb of women in the countryside, and different styles developed for different regions.

Finally, in the middle of the 19th century, Emperor Franz Joseph and his court used to vacation in the Salzburg Lake district. The emperor took to wearing Lederhosen during his hunting exhibitions there, and a fashion trend was born. Suddenly, the Dirndl was all the rage and the Viennese aristocracy wore Dirndls and Lederhosen during their stay in the country.

Photo courtesy Ernst Licht German Imports

In the 1920s, the founders of the Salzburg Festival contributed to the popularity of the Dirndl by making it acceptable to wear during performances and society events. The Salzburger Dirndl manufacturer Lanz and the world-wide success of the operetta “Weisses Roessl” made the Dirndl an international hit.

Since then the Dirndl has conquered the international fashion world. In the last 10-15 years, the Dirndl and traditional costumes in general have experienced another huge surge in popularity, even outside of the regions in Austria where it has been an everyday item for generations.

WHERE TO BUY A DIRNDL?
With so many different styles to choose from, where do you start your own quest for the perfect Dirndl? Where to find authentic, traditional styles, and which Dirndl designers are known for fun and tasteful modern versions?

The best place to buy your Dirndl, of course, is at the “source.” The “real” Maria von Trapp used to mainly wear Dirndls and ordered new outfits with her favorite Dirndl tailor whenever she went back to her native Salzburg. Today, with Dirndls and Lederhosen in high demand, there are enough Dirndl manufacturers and stores to make your head spin.

For more info, go to www.austria.info/us

Travel to Europe Like a Pro

Whether it’s your first time to Europe, a romantic vacation for two to Paris or a family trip to London, international travel can seem a little daunting. With proper planning, you can kick off your vacation on the right foot.

1. Educate yourself on the culture: It is important to be mindful of other cultures when travelling internationally. Be sure to study up on any common cultural mistakes that travelers make when entering the country you are visiting. This will safeguard you from making the same embarrassing and offensive mistakes.

2. Review rules on air travel and luggage: Save time (and stress) at the airport by checking the TSA website’s list of prohibited items. No one wants to start a trip having to repack their luggage at the airport or getting stuck in customs.

3. Make copies of important papers: most people know that proper documentation is needed for international travel, but how many people think to bring copies with them? Take the time before you leave to keep a copy of all your documentation in your email, just in case something happens. Have an unlocked mobile phone? Be sure to keep a copy on there too. (If you don’t, think about purchasing one.)

4. Check out the local forecast: in order to know what to pack, it is important to know the typical weather where you are going in the time frame you are going. You should also check the local weather a few days before you leave.

5. Purchase an unlocked cell phone: Stay connected with those at home by purchasing an unlocked mobile phone. Purchasing an unlocked GSM phone will allow you to access pay-as-you-go plans internationally, saving on roaming fees. This kind of connectivity can give you piece of mind in knowing, wherever you are, you are always connected.

Courtesy of Ahmed Khattak and GSM Nation

Spend St. Valentine’s Day in Dublin

If a short break is on your agenda for St. Valentine’s Day, perhaps you need a push from the man himself — St. Valentine. Wouldn’t you know it? The Irish actually have relics (some of the remains) of the patron saint of lovers.

You need to head to Dublin for this. The St. Valentine’s Shrine is in Whitefriar Carmelite Church, Aungier Street, a few minutes walk from Grafton Street, St. Stephen’s Green and the famous Temple Bar, the center of Dublin’s shopping, culture and craic in the Irish capital.

If you can, visit St. Valentine’s Shrine on February 14 itself—the saint’s actual feast day, and the origin of the annual celebration of love, although it’s still a place of pilgrimage for those celebrating love at any time.

You can do a lot in Dublin on a long weekend. In Europe’s friendliest city; you can talk to anyone. It’s said the city is as intimate as a pub. But it’s probably better not to over-prepare for Dublin, or anywhere in Ireland. Be ready to go with the flow, build in one or two key activities and expect the locals to throw a surprise or two your way.

Dublin hotels and restaurants will be pulling out the stops to create a traditional romantic atmosphere on Valentine’s night, so candle-lit dinners will be the norm. Flowers are no problem either— Smithfield Flower Market — and one Dublin temple to the art of all things— chocolate— is actually not far from St. Valentines’ Shrine. Chocolatier Cocoa Atelier on Drury Street oozes handmade Irish chocolate deliciousness.

Finally, the all-important card.The Emerald Isle’s charm is more along the style of literary son Sheridan: “Won’t you come into the garden? My roses should like to meet you.”

Ireland is a land that reaches deep into the heart, lifts spirits and stirs you to your very core.

For more information, go to: www.discoverireland.com, www.galwayonline.com and www.visitdublin.com