By Susan O’Brien Photos courtesy Croatian National Tourist Board
Have you always wished you had been on the Riviera with Hemingway, Stein and Picasso in the 1920s? Although time travel is not (yet) possible, there’s a place on the Adriatic coast that claims to capture that golden era.
Dubrovnik has a proud history that goes back to Roman times, and its ancient center is so remarkably well-preserved it is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage sites. It is Croatia’s southernmost city, enjoying a sunny Mediterranean climate and a spectacular mountain coastline dotted with more than 1,000 islands. It combines the charm of an ancient walled city with the amenities of a first-class Adriatic resort. It’s easy to see why the city has been known as “The Pearl of the Adriatic.”
The city was built on maritime trade, becoming a rival to Venice In the Middle Ages. Supported by its wealth and skilled diplomacy during the 15th and 16th centuries, Dubrovnik was one of the centers of development of the Croatian language and literature, home to many notable poets, playwrights, painters, mathematicians, physicists and other scholars.
GETTING THERE The easiest way to get to Dubrovnik is by air, although bus and ferry transportation are also possibilities. Croatia Airlines operates daily flights to and from Zagreb and select European cities. Planes land at Dubrovnik International Airport (Zracna Luka), located at Cilipi, 18km (11 miles) from the city center.
Buses are available from other Croatian cities, as are ferries from Bari, Italy and other coastal spots in Croatia.
SIGHTS The walled Old Town is pedestrian-friendly, and most major sites are inside. The Stradun is the main street through the Old Town. The Romanesque cathedral, which dates from the 6th or 7th century, was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1667 and rebuilt in the Baroque style by Roman architects Andrea Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti. There are also Jesuit, Dominican and Franciscan monasteries, among many other architectural treasures.
DINING The basic style of Dubrovnik cuisine is Mediterranean. The emphasis is on olive oil, not butter. Polenta is a popular side dish and most dishes are liberally seasoned with parsley and garlic.
With strong historic links to Italy, it’s unsurprising that pasta and risotto is served in nearly every restaurant. Pizza is another favorite, usually toasted in wood-fired ovens.
The staple of traditional Dubrovnik cuisine is fish and seafood, expertly prepared but not necessarily local. The demand for best quality fish and shellfish far outstrips the supply, particularly in high season, and restaurants are often forced to buy frozen fish from afar.
NIGHTLIFE Dubrovnik hosts a lively nightlife scene and dozens of restaurants, all vying with each other for the attention of tourists. If you are used to the prices of Western Europe, this Eastern European city will seem like a comparative bargain.
By Susan MacCallum-Whitcomb Photos courtesy Costa Del Sol Tourism
Sometimes it helps to follow your nose.
For days we’d heard rumors about ancient baths located just below Casares, in southeastern Spain. But reliable information was hard to come by. The tourist brochures made only passing reference to them, and even the directions that we finally did get were vague to say the least: head down the mountain and through the quarry, turn onto the foot path, then walk toward the water. Precisely how far we should go and which of the half-hidden paths we should take remained a mystery, though.
So on we plodded in Andalusia’s autumnal sunshine dodging killer cacti and recalcitrant donkeys, until we smelt it — the sulfurous pool that first brought the area a measure of fame more than 2,000 years before.
According to legend, Julius Caesar stumbled upon this same spot in 61 BC, when he was merely a provincial administrator with a nasty skin condition, and was so impressed by the pool’s medicinal properties that he became a frequent visitor. The Roman-built structure that encloses it (known as Baños de la Hedionda) is a simple dome with a sheltering wall around the perimeter. Rising about eight feet above ground level, it is broken only by two low arches through which you enter directly into the water by way of either a rough wooden ladder or a stone ramp. Taking the plunge can be unnerving. Darkness makes the depth of the pool difficult to determine, and two subterranean vaults add to the sense of foreboding.
WATER IS DIVINE
Caesar, however, was absolutely right: the water is divine and warm enough for swimming well into the fall. For him, its healing power seemed miraculous. For us, on the other hand, the real miracle was that the baños—despite their proximity to the Costa del Sol, one of Europe’s most congested tourist strips—have no signs, lines or admission fees. In short, they’ve yet to be invaded by the hordes of vacationers who have overrun the Mediterranean coast from Malaga to Algeciras. The same can also be said of Casares, the pueblo blanco or “white village” reputedly named for Caesar that overlooks the baths. And it, too, can seem rather daunting at first.
In part that’s because of its dramatic location: set 1,425 feet up in the Sierra Bermeja Mountains, Casares’ sugar-cube buildings perch precariously on twin plateaus and tumble into the deep crevice between. But it is also because of the quiet. You see, the village is a study in serenity, which is unsettling for those who’ve come to equate holidays with site-filled itineraries and Amazing Race-style activities.
The truth is that, save for the late afternoon (when children take to the soccer field) or dusk (when adults tread the cobbled pedestrian-only streets on their nightly paseo) sounds here are as muted as the almond blossoms that enliven the landscape, which is precisely why Casares is a perfect place to rediscover the lost art of lounging. The first step, literally, is to stroll over to Plaza España where you can browse shops bordering the square and watch locals play pétanque beside a centuries-old fountain. Afterwards, you might putter about in Casares’ small ethno-history museum or pay homage to Blas Infante, the “Father of Andalusian Nationalism,” at his restored birthplace.
SATISFY YOUR HUNGER Next, having satisfied your curiosity, you can concentrate on satisfying your hunger. It’s a pleasant prospect considering Casareño eateries dish up simple fare prepared with Andalusian flare. Specialties include morcilla de chivo sausages and artisanal goat cheese accompanied by dense brown bread. Hearty soups are harvest-time favorites, and game (most notably rabbit rolled in wild herbs) is popular in season.
If you’d like to enjoy these with a side order of scenery, the best bet for dining is Bodeguita de en Medio, which has a rooftop terrace offering views of the ruins that stand guard over the village. The very presence of these, of course, proves life in Casares hasn’t always been quite so peaceful. Its strategic position made it a popular hideout for bandoleros in the 19th century. Before that it was favored stop for armed forces, from the earliest Iberians through to the French who attempted a takeover during the Napoleonic Wars. Those who succeeded left an indelible mark that earned Casares recognition as a National Historic-Artistic Site in 1978, and their legacy is nowhere more apparent than at this isolated spot.
Fortified by the Romans, it was further developed by Moors who gained control of the region in 711. By the 13th century, they’d erected a castle on the seemingly impregnable promontory. Within a few hundred years, Queen Isabella’s Christian soldiers had put an end to Arab domination, and the Encarnación church was built atop it. Now that, too, is an empty shell, and the evocatively decaying structure reaches heavenward with a different purpose: aerials have been attached to it to improve television reception! Contemporary life has brought other changes as well. The climb to the ruins admittedly remains steep. The sweeping views – up to the mountains, down to the sea and across to the northernmost reaches of Africa – are as magnificent as ever.
ROCK OF GIBRALTAR But while the ancients could only gaze out and imagine these distant locales, today’s visitors can easily reach them. Estepona, the closest of the Mediterranean resort towns, is just 25 minutes east by car, and a morning’s drive west through the clouds will take you to Ronda, the stunning gorge-straddling city that has been dubbed the “Birthplace of Bullfighting.” The iconic Rock of Gibraltar, situated an hour south, promises Barbary Apes plus a quick taste of the British Empire. Even Tangier — Morocco’s infamous, undeniably exotic port city — is accessible to early risers, thanks to the packaged daytrips sold all along the seaboard.
Closer to home, Paraje Natural de Sierra Crestellina now beckons ramblers, and diehard duffers are welcome to hit a few balls at a new area golf course. Remember, though, the true beauty of this place is that you don’t have to break a sweat to enjoy it. When you allow yourself to fully surrender to Casares’ laconic spell, simply sitting on a deck chair can provide ample entertainment. It’s easy enough, after all, to idle away hours watching farmers tend the olive and cork groves below, or marveling at the belled goats that graze at impossible heights on the rocky outcroppings above. Once you’ve had your fill of that, you can always soak up the atmosphere in Baños de la Hedionda. Trust me, the water’s fine…
The Fine Print: If relaxing is your primary goal, choosing where to stay is as important as deciding where to go. So while you can bed down in a basic room Hotel Casares for about €60 a night, renting a vacation home is a more restful, and budget-friendly, alternative. We booked ours through Just Casares, a local company which lists traditional white-washed townhouses starting at €300 per week in autumn. Those off-season rates kick in September 1, even though the village hosts two favorite ferias (or fairs) during that month: one honoring La Virgen del Rosario, the other El Cristo. These run respectively the first Saturday in September and over a long weekend in mid-September to coincide with the end of the summer harvest.
Mechelen, Belgium, about 15 miles north of Brussels, is a city of about 79,000 that features more than 300 monuments, eight historic Catholic churches and four UNESCO world heritage sights. You can reach the city by a short train ride from the main railway station in Brussels.
Mechelen is worth visiting not only because of its sights, but its people flourish because of a built-in determination and a friendliness that transcends nationalities. Maybe its because the Mecheleners have been perfecting humanity since 500 BC, when the first traces of human habitation of the area were discovered.
At one time, more than 100 firms in the city made furniture and word carvings, as evidenced by the many large and ornate church carvings seen here. Be sure to look for them as you discover this cobblestoned town, whose city center is only about a half mile across.
Some of the city’s sights include the early Gothic Brussels Gate, the last remnant of the medieval fortification constructed around the inner part of the city, built about 1300. At one time, all traffic entering and leaving had to pass through its limestone gates.
ST. RUMBOLD TOWER You can’t miss St. Rumbold Tower—it dominates the city skyline. If you have the time, conquer the 514 steps to the top of the tower to the skywalk for a great view of the area. Original plans for the tower were made when Mechelen was a rich and powerful commercial and political center, and thus the tower of St. Rumbold’s Cathedral was to become the highest tower in the Low Countries. Completed, it would have reached the dizzying height of 547 feet. Financial problems in the 16th century halted construction. The tower now reaches a height of 318 feet, still plenty tall.
Inside the cathedral is a scale model of what the tower should have looked like had it been completed. Also inside the church are two of the largest stained glass windows in Europe. Jo Haazen and other guest carillonneurs present a carillon concert at the church every Monday evening from 8.30 p.m. to 9.30 p.m. These recitals are free.
A third highlight of the city is the Large Beguinage, where widows and unmarried women of class were invited to live together, submitting themselves to pledges of obedience and chastity. Parts of this community are still visible and are inter-woven into the city’s many old structures that line narrow streets in the center. Still in tact are the Beguines’ church, the infirmary, the house of the grand mistress and other structures.
(middle) One of the largest stained glass windows in Europe in Mechelen’s cathedral.
PALACE OF MARGARET OF AUSTRIA Another important site is the Palace of Margaret of Austria of the Court of Savoy. This was the first renaissance building in the Low Countries and perhaps outside of Italy. The facade features Margaret’s coat of arms, and between 1616 to 1795 it was the seat of the Great Council. Its interior garden area is a fine place to rest your feet for a while.
Another spot worth visiting is St. John’s Church, which is open to the public. A very fine wood carving on the interior is one of Ruben’s masterpieces, The Adoration of the Magi. The church furniture, paintings and statues date largely from the 17th and 18th centuries.
For a respite from walking or touring the city, find Windels at Iron Leen 48 (not far from the main railway station), the oldest cigar store in Belgium (from 1875) that continues to make fine cigars, and offers them in beautiful hand-made wooden boxes. The store, now being run by the fifth generation of Windels, also carries a good selection of whiskeys.
The Jef Denyn Royal Carillon School, at Frederik de Merodestraat 63, is a state-subsidized educational institute that offers a six-year program to obtain a laureate’s diploma. Even the Vienna Boys Choir visited the school during the last few years. When you realize Belgium is one of the carillon capitals of the world, this school makes sense, and attracts students from as many as a dozen different countries. The heaviest carillon in Belgium—there are five different carillons in town–is in one of the local church towers.
The Jef Denyn Royal Carillon School in Mechelen
The De Wit Royal Manufacturers of Tapestry, operating since 1889, is the only workshop in Flanders to retain this age-old tradition. Offering a complete range of tapestry services, the firm offers individual tours on Saturdays at 10:30 a.m. and group tours on other days. The De Wit is housed in a beautiful old Abbey at Schoutetraat 7, and plays a key role in many old and expensive tapestry restorations throughout Europe.
TIME FOR SOME CUCKOO Perhaps at lunch time you’ll want something unique and that is a local delicacy. Find a restaurant that serves the town’s famous Mechelse koekoek, or Mechelen cuckoo (chicken). This chicken, with black-gray feathers, is a feature on many local menus, and is often served with fresh vegetables or with a Mechelen beer sauce. You’ ll likely get a large side dish of round roasted potatoes to go with the chicken.
Delicious cheese lines the shelves in a Mechelen shop.
After lunch, stop in at one of the two local Gauthier chocolate shops (one is at Guldenstraat 2), and soak in the atmosphere. Store candies are hand-made, made from traditional Belgium customs, and follow a unique recipe, so you’ll likely leave with a bag full of something good to eat. The Gauthier family, with master chocolate maker Edouard Gauthier, has been making candy in town since 1964.
Round out your afternoon with a boat trip on the Inner Dyle River. A multilingual audio-guide tells you about the sights along the river banks. The departure is at the Jetty at Lamot/Haverwerf and costs €6 for adults.
MUCH MORE TO SEE Many more Mechelen sights are available if you have the time, such as the Watchmaker’s Museum, the Jewish Museum of Deportation and Resistance, the Museum in City Hall (the old Rathaus), and the Het Anker Brewery Museum. At this small family brewery, best known for its local beers such as Gouden Carolus, you’ll get a feel for quality. The brewery also has its own restaurant and 22-room hotel.
Around the year 1500 more than 100 breweries operated in Mechelen, but like most things, the businesses and other important history of the city has faded over time. But this quaint Belgium town continues to re-count its traditions and rich past, and brings it forth today for all to enjoy.
The cities belonging to Germany’s “Magic Cities” association, including Berlin, Cologne, Dresden, Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Hannover, Leipzig, Munich and Stuttgart are centers of art, architecture, history and culture. Discover some of the newest additions of designer hotels that these cities offer:
In Berlin, the Soho House concept is being implemented for the first time in Germany. Stylish branches of this chain can already be found in London and New York. In the former “House of Unity” at the foot of Prenzlauer Berg, the hotel has 50 bedrooms. The luxurious fitness area, modern conference rooms and hotel with spacious apartments on the third and fourth floor will be open to all visitors. There will also be an exclusive area for club members only. Another highlight is planned on the second floor, where the office of the former State President of the GDR, Wilhelm Pieck, is being restored to its original condition.
Cologne
In Cologne, one hour from Frankfurt on the Rhine River, there is a new four-star hotel, Art’otel Cologne, in a prime location on the banks of the Rhine. Alongside the trapezoidal design and the colorful windows, the chief attraction of the hotel is the art-inspired interior design with a permanent exhibition of the works of the Korean artist SEO, a former master student of Georg Baselitz. The hotel has 218 rooms with a special twist: the glass walls partitioning the bath or shower rooms are colorfully painted with some of the best of SEO’s designs.
Duesseldorf lives up to its artistic reputation (Academy of Arts) with its own new designer hotels. The Stage 47 Hotel features a completely new, unique design. All 27 suites and rooms are named after famous artists. Their portraits adorn the walls of the individual rooms, creating a special atmosphere. British elegance combined with unpretentious comfort describe the Sir & Lady Astor hotels. Lovingly arranged details and charming decorations as well as discreet, attentive service give guests a feeling of a homecoming.
Dresden, the royal metropolis on the River Elbe in the eastern state of Saxony, has been restored to one of the most beautiful Baroque cities in Europe. Dresden offers beautiful architecture, world-class art and a variety of luxury hotels. A perfect example for the modern reinvention in the classic tradition is the QF Hotel, perfectly located near the Church of Our Lady in the heart of Dresden. The hotel, formerly the “Hotel Stadt Berlin,” has been known since 1804 as one of the best hotels in the city. The 96 rooms combine comfort and luxury with a clean and modern design.
Frankfurt, the financial metropolis in the middle of Germany, is not only the major airport hub, but also a fascinating city where great history meets modernity, world class contemporary art museums and galleries are placed alongside cultural giants such as Goethe. A new highlight of the hotel scene is the Roomers design hotel in the city center. This luxury hotel combines classic lines and innovative design in its 117 rooms.
Hamburg: The designer hotels in this port city combine themed interiors with the comforts and conveniences of the highest standard. Hamburg is also where you’ll find Germany’s highest-rated boutique hotel. The Side Hotel combines luxury and design with aplomb. This award-winning five-star establishment is characterized by a minimalist interior of dark wood and beige elements illuminated by unique lighting.
The George Hamburg holds an entirely different appeal as a four-star hotel with British charm. Rooms furnished in warm colors, an elegant library and an English Garden are all part of its homage to British style.
Hannover, in Germany’s north, has a long history as a royal seat of the English kings and queens, but also as a modern city that hosts many world-class conventions. A special place to overnight is the Sheraton Pelikan Hotel. Located in the former Pelikan factory, one of the most famous brands of fountain pens, the architects integrated the architecture of the old production facilities into the hotel design to create a distinctive loft atmosphere.
Leipzig
Leipzig, one of the most exciting cities in eastern Germany, invites visitors to stay in style in the newly-redesigned Pentahotel. The hotel was given a complete makeover in 2009 by Italian star designer Matteo Thun. The 356 new stylish and comfortable rooms have 32″ flat screen TVs, iPod or game consoles like Nintendo Wii, and other features catering to the needs of the modern and tech-savvy traveler.
Munich in southern Bavaria is known for its royal splendor. The new Louis Hotel that opened in September 2009 fits right in. The name Louis is intended as a reference to the appreciation of beauty as professed by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. Located in the heart of Munich, globetrotters will feel at home in the 72 rooms with carefully selected details and handcrafted furnishings. Natural stone and elegant tiling are reminiscent of the Parisian Metro and make the rooms an unforgettable experience.
Stuttgart
Stuttgart, home to the iconic car brands Mercedes and Porsche, now offers a very special experience for motorsports enthusiast. The V8 Hotel opened last fall and offers everything for high-octane car lovers. Individually designed rooms, antique and unique car models make this hotel a great experience. Its Bauhaus style combines function and comfort.
Trains in Germany are fast, clean and on time. The comprehensive system that includes high speed trains, regional express trains, local trains, street cars and even buses, is so convenient that in the almost two dozen trips I’ve taken to Germany and bordering countries, I’ve never rented a car to get where I needed to be. But I have picked up some tips to make your train travel much easier.
For maximum flexibility in rail travel, a rail pass from Rail Europe is the way to go. Passes can be purchased for the number of days you need to travel over the course of a determined period of time. You must purchase your pass before leaving your country of origin.
On a recent two-week trip, which included a week-long river cruise in central Germany, I traveled by train before and after the boat trip. So my rail pass was for exactly five days of train travel (any days I chose) over the course of one month, starting on the day the pass is validated. Before boarding the train, fill in the date, have your passport with you on the train, and your ticket is valid for travel all day, on as many trains as you like. Some express trains may require an additional reservation fee; ask an agent if you’re unsure.
FIVE DAYS OF TRAIN TRAVEL After landing in Frankfurt, I used the first of my five days of train travel to go from the airport to the main Frankfurt train station. Trains leave from the airport to the Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof every few minutes. From the train station I could walk to my hotel. Since the main train stations of major European cities are usually in the historic town centers, you can usually walk to most of the “must see” historic destinations. The historical centre of Hamburg, which is North of Frankfurt, is situated between the Main Station and Gansemarkt and there’s a variety of hotels available if heading that route. Sometimes bicycles are also available for rent from Deutsch Bahn train stations.
The next morning I again filled in the date on my rail pass for the day’s travel, which included an S Bahn train to Mainz, a regional express train to Saarbrucken, a Regionalbahn train to Merzig, and finally, a bus to Remich, Luxembourg, where the river cruise began.
The following local trains are available in Germany:
RegionalExpress (RE) The RegionalExpress connects cities and offers travel in comfortable modern trains. It leaves at regular intervals and links local to long-distance trains. Regionalbahn (RB) The Regionalbahn offers a basic service from all local stations. It provides the connection between the regions and city centers. It also connects to the RegionalExpress. S Bahn The S Bahn services high-density areas, leaving in quick, regular intervals. Some S Bahn stations have access to longer distance regional trains, making travel within the city and between cities easier.
How do you find the right train? The very large train stations will have electronic signboards listing train destinations, the track (Gleis), and time of departure. If your train isn’t listed, wait a few minutes, and check again. The board is constantly updated as trains come and go. It will also list delays and cancellations. At smaller stations, a list of daily arrivals and departures is printed on signage on the platform. Go to the correct track number, and check the sign on the platform to make sure your destination is listed. Then keep an eye on the clock (there’s usually one on the platform at most midsize and major train stations) and watch your train arrive, usually right on time.
If your rail pass is for first class travel, as the train arrives, look for the cars with a number “1” on the side, indicating first class seating. While even second class sections are comfortable, first class is usually more luxurious, air-conditioned and roomier. Layover time at a station is often short, so it’s important to board quickly. You can move to the first class seating area once you’re on board, but it’s harder if you have a lot of bulky luggage.
Look for the signs inside the train to learn your next stop.
MAKING CONNECTIONS When you’ve found a seat, look for the automated sign inside the car that indicates the next stop, and be ready to exit when your destination approaches. Not all trains have this, so having a pre-printed schedule in your hand prior to boarding is helpful. You can print these out from the Rail Europe website before you leave home. To find your next connection at the next station if you need to, check the station train board for the time and track number. If the layover is long enough, stop for a coffee or a snack, or get a sandwich and drink to enjoy on the train at one of the many food shops located in the larger train stations.
The last leg of my day’s travel was by bus to Remich, where the cruise ship was waiting. Since my pass was for travel in Germany only, it was not valid for the bus to Remich. However, the bus ticket was easily purchased from the driver after boarding. Bus stations are usually right next to the train stations, and schedules between trains and busses are coordinated for easy connections.
After disembarking the cruise at Nuremburg, I made my way to the main train station by cab, checked the large signboard, and found the track for my next destination: Dresden. Once again, I wrote the date for my third day of travel in the appropriate square on the rail pass before boarding. You must write in this date prior to each day’s trip.
This inter-regional express train, one-fifth of which was devoted to first class seating, had some cars designated to leave the train at Bayreuth. Look for the signs on the sides and front of each car to be sure the car you’re riding is going all the way to your destination, since some cars may be transferred to other towns en route.
Even though this was a regional train, it traveled at upwards of 90 miles per hour, past farmland, forests, streams and rolling hills and through tunnels, often on super-elevated tracks, and in areas where double tracks allowed for quick, through traffic. The first-class seating area had a table at which I could comfortably eat the sandwiches I bought along. If you don’t have a chance to purchase food at the station, usually a snack cart on long-haul trains is wheeled through periodically, offering coffee, drinks and snacks.
After four days in Dresden, I filled in the fourth travel date on my pass for the trip from Dresden to Frankfurt. In the Dresden Hauptbahnhof, I again bought food to eat on board while waiting for the signboard to list the train to Frankfurt. This trip would be on an ICE (InterCityExpress), one of the premier luxury trains on the Deutsch Bahn rail system. Once on the track platform, I looked for the chart listing the train equipment on this route. Waiting areas on the platform are designated “A”, “B”, “C” and “D”. Check this chart to find where the first class cars are in the train’s consist, and note where they line up in the ABCD waiting areas. You now know where the car you want will be as the train pulls into the station, allowing for quicker boarding.
RESERVATIONS MAY BE NEEED Reserving a seat is recommended on some heavily-traveled routes, even if you have a first class reservation. Making a reservation costs a small amount and is easily accomplished at a Deutsch Bahn service counter at main train stations. The lines move quickly, most agents speak English and will efficiently take care of your request.
With a reservation you are assigned a specific seat in a specific car. The seat will have a sign above it designating it as “reserved,” and is reserved solely for you. Sometimes seats are reserved for a segment of the route beginning at a station down the line, and these seats must also be kept free for the passenger who reserved them, even if they are empty for the first part of the trip. Sometimes reservations on busy routes fill up quickly, so decide early if you want to be sure to have a seat. I didn’t bother with reservations on another trip from Vienna to Venice once, and ended up clutching my first class ticket while sitting on my suitcase the entire way in the vestibule of the standing-room only car.
Since Dresden was the starting point for this train, the equipment was already at the station ready for boarding when I arrived. I had plenty of time to check the “consist” at the platform, and found the car number and seat that was on the reservation. While I came prepared with sandwiches and snacks, dining car menus in first class offer coffee, tea, soft drinks, beer, wine, hot and cold sandwiches, soup, salads and pastries, which can be ordered and brought to your seat or purchased in the dining car. The menu changes monthly.
The ICE train is truly an express train. Super-elevated tracks allow for fast curves and a smooth ride, often at speeds of 100 to 120 miles per hour. The only stops were at main train stations along the route. As the beautiful German countryside sped by, I could see Wartburg Castle near Eisenach, and noted the exact location where the border and guard towers had at one time divided Germany into East and West.
Upon arrival (right on time) in Frankfurt, I walked to the hotel, and enjoyed another evening of exploring the city center on foot. The next morning I filled in the last date on the rail pass for the trip from Frankfurt’s main train station to the airport. Train travel through central Germany was easy and actually fun. I enjoyed the ride, taking it easy, and leaving the driving to someone else. These iron rails can be such a delight!
European Traveler 