Attractions – European Traveler

Dining in Madrid Is More Than Just Dinner

Flamenco dancer and guitar player on stage

Story and photos by Alison Ramsey

Madrid, the colorful capital of Spain, has a vibrant culinary scene with myriad eatery options to bring visitors closer to the city’s authentic culture, traditions, and characters. To make the most of a visit, vary mealtime experiences by trying unique gastronomy options and formats.

Progressive Dinner Offers Premium Food Experience

Elysian Tales, the passion project of charismatic Marwa Preston, brings guests on a multi-stop fully customized progressive dinner throughout the city, with short walking trips between venues.

Woman at dinner table — Marwa Preston, backed by a Spanish-tiled wall at La Carmencita, sits with iced red
vermouth, served in its traditional small glass.

Michelin-Starred Fine Dining

One example program begins at the elegant, Michelin-starred Saddle restaurant, whose red velvet armchairs, full-ceiling skylights, and modern gold accents imbue sophistication and style. Join the chefs in the kitchen, where they teach participants to artfully scrape a creamy oval-shaped “butter quenelle” from a mountain of French butter to go with homemade sourdough bread and sparkling Corpinnat wine from Catalonia.

Friendly kitchen staff walk guests through plating a colorful vegetable course, using silver tweezers to decorate swirls of flavor with purple cauliflower, figs, carrots, strawberries, and edible flowers, and garnishing with fresh horseradish and sea salt. The quality of ingredients and combinations of interesting tastes here are beyond comparison, and the feeling of making it yourself alongside professional chefs in a gourmet kitchen is unmatched.

Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Progressive dinner participants at Saddle learn the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.
Marwa Preston of Elysian Tales and the Saddle staff teach diners the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.

Homestyle Comfort Food

A leisurely walk past the stately Supreme Court of Spain and Church of Santa Bárbara leads to friendly Chuecha neighborhood bistro La Carmencita Tavern. The second oldest tavern in Madrid and a famous locale for writers to frequent, this lively venue is full of locals sipping red vermouth (white wine infused with caramelized sugar and botanicals), nibbling in-house marinated olives, and sampling savory cheeses with honey farmed from the outskirts of Madrid. Preston described their Spanish version of “Russian salad” as tuna, potatoes, green peas, and vegetables, and “everyone from Spain will tell you their mom’s recipe is the best.”

A grandma’s-home-cooking recipe of beef pate on bread, and Mediterranean anchovies comprise bar food typical in this “Soho of Madrid” area. At this homey site where three generations of Carmens lived, the elaborately decorated Spanish tiles on the walls are all original, and the dining room used to be the house’s bedroom.

Dining room and appetizer plates — Red vermouth and traditional tapas make up a cozy homestyle meal at La Carmencita
Tavern.

Romantic Date-Night Atmosphere

Moody candlelight, rough-hewn wooden tables, open-flame ovens, dramatic wall art, and a vast collection of high-level wines make Charrúa Madrid a romantic stop on the journey. Fresh rosemary is burned 30 minutes before dinner service, and the pleasant aroma stimulates senses and heightens the dining experience.

Begin with hot beef consommé rich with vitamins and minerals, creamy cauliflower puree (“90% cauliflower and 10% butter,” said Preston) with freshly shaved truffles, and seasoned tomatoes. Roasted red pepper is served alongside tender, free-roaming grass-fed Retinta beef sirloin to bring out the meat’s flavor, with the acidity of the pepper cutting through the meat’s fattiness.

Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.

Dessert is torrija, a Spanish version of French toast that involves homemade brioche soaked in milk infused with cinnamon, orange rind, and lemon peel, and nested with yogurt ice cream. Preston explained that this is a typical Easter dish in Spain, although that time of year the bread is often soaked in wine instead of milk.

Despite the rich flavors in these courses, the food sits lightly in the stomach and is not fried, like many of the ham croquetas (deep-fried fritters) and bombas (fried mashed potato balls) served in touristy locations. With a short walk in between restaurants on this dining tour, guests don’t leave feeling stuffed and uncomfortable.

Funky Cocktail Bar

Wrap up the evening at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas, a venue with a Vegas-style disco bar, DJ, private karaoke screen, and room dedicated to Julio Iglesias in the back. Pick your garnish of choice (cinnamon, ginger, pepper, sugar cubes, dried lime) and describe your favorite flavors, scents, or even your favorite vinyl record, and the host will create a drink they sense will match your taste.

The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.
Select favorite garnishes at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas and receive a custom-made beverage to match your taste.
The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.

The front restaurant area has a crocheted ceiling, handmade mosaic floors, Murano-glass–covered towers, many mirrors, and walls are hand-painted with Madrid panoramas. It is truly a unique scene and novel way to end an evening of gastronomic exploration.

This curated culinary experience by Elysian Tales allows visitors to experience the food selections and scenes at several different types of eateries even if they only spend a few days in Madrid.

Other Distinctive Dining Options in Madrid

Local Castilian and Madrid Cuisine

Dine at traditional Madrid establishment Posada de la Villa for a taste of Castilian and Madrid cuisine, including roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven (absolutely delicious, with tender meat falling off the bone), Bellota Iberian ham, Manchego cheese, homemade croquetas, tuna and tomato salad, Dehesa Valquejigoso wine, and “Posadero’s Dessert” trio of pastry, fried milk, and cheesecake. Dark wood and brick wall interiors, Iberian ham hanging from the rafters, excellent flavors, quality service, and an active scene of locals, people on business lunches, and foodies make this historic stop one to remember.

Traditional Madrid dining at Posada de la Villa includes local wines and roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven.

Wine Masterclass and Tasting

Explore Madrid’s wine culture and cuisine by taking a masterclass at Vinology. At this wine bar and restaurant, sommelier and founder, Pilar Oltra, guides guests through an exploration of Madrid’s four wine-producing regions—Arganda del Rey, Navalcarnero, San Martín de Valdeiglesias, and El Molar—made up of almost 22 acres of vineyards and 45 wineries.

Learn about grape varieties, terroir (the unique combination of climate, soil, terrain, and tradition that shape the character of a wine), and sample five wines alongside five creative tapas, including homemade foie mi-cuit (semi-cooked duck) with quince, cecina (smoked beef) with toasted almonds and extra virgin olive oil, and anchovy with Iberian jowl.

Pilar Oltra, sommelier and founder of Vinology, stands by her storefront.
Snack and sample during an informative wine masterclass at Vinology.
Sommelier Pilar Oltra explains Madrid’s wine culture and regions during a tasting and masterclass at Vinology.

Dinner and Flamenco Show

The oldest, most prestigious, and most famous flamenco tablao (wooden stage) in the world is Corral de la Morería. Paired with its Michelin-starred haute cuisine designed by head chef, David García, this cultural dinner-and-show is a memorable way to involve all the senses in one evening experience.

Savor scallop carpaccio with tomato tartar, dates, and coconut ajoblanco (cold soup); poultry egg yolk over ropa vieja (shredded beef); sea bass and gilda (skewer of olive, anchovy, and pepper); and fruit sorbet or caramelized French toast made with fresh milk and served with banana ice cream.

For six decades, flamenco icons have graced the Corral de la Morería stage to showcase their art, and the venue is frequented by celebrities and visitors from across the globe (e.g., Frank Sinatra, Dua Lipa, Gloria Estefan). Here, the singers, dancers, and guitar players use feet, eyes, tongues, wrists, fingers, and flowing costumes to tell a dramatic story in sound and movement, with no translation needed, and present a new show every 7-10 days.

Flamenco dancer waving cape — A dramatic and sound-rich story is expressed on the Corral de la Moreria *tablao*.

“It’s the only dance in the world where the music follows the dancers,” said Armando del Rey, an owner of the family-run business his father, Manuel, began in 1956. Manuel hired Armando’s mother, Blanca, a very well-known choreographer and dancer in Spain, and Manuel and Blanca soon fell in love. Now, Manuel and his brother, Juanma, work with artistic director Blanca in the restaurant sector as well. Corral de la Morería is the only restaurant in the world with a Michelin star that has a dinner and tablao, and it is listed in The New York Times bestseller “1,000 Places to See Before You Die.”

Jazz Entertainment Club

For dinner and drinks in a flashy club atmosphere, make a reservation at the bustling two-story Pabblo. Here guests are treated to Mediterranean cooking from a wood-fired oven and charcoal grill, classic and innovative cocktails, Picasso-inspired décor, and live band music with lounge singers, dancers, and aerial silk artists.

Lounge singer performs with band — A live band, sultry singers, and glittering dancers present a high-energy show at
Pabblo’s dinner seating.

Between hummus, tuna tartar, fish and lamb courses, and a fun make-your-own ice cream sundae dessert platter, you’ll hear smooth saxophone jams, watch sequined showgirls shimmy and strut, and see a graceful gymnast draped around aerial ribbons and descending through the open ceiling from the upper level. Entertainment while eating is an exceptional way to end an evening out on the town.

Four Seasons’ Restaurants and Rooftop

The first Four Seasons hotel in Spain is found within an enormous and beautiful property block composed of seven historic buildings with a national-heritage–protected external façade. Within this complex, shop at Canalejas Gallery, the new luxury shopping arcade in central Madrid housing 40 boutiques and prestigious brands such as Dior, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Armani, Tom Ford, and Tumi.

After browsing or buying, easily head to Four Seasons’ El Patio lobby bar (featuring the original marble columns and concierge desk from when the room used to be the operations area of the Spanish Credit Bank), the Isa Asian cuisine restaurant and cocktail bar, or Dani Brasserie for signature Mediterranean and Andalusian dishes and drinks on the top level.

Four Seasons’ rooftop patio looks into the Dani Brasserie dining room.
The rooftop patio of Dani Brasserie at the Four Seasons affords splendid views of Madrid’s Gran Via street.

At Dani Brasserie, don’t miss chef Dani García’s famous and savory “Red Tuna Descargamento,” served in a delicate rose shape, with yellow bell peppers, lime, and olive oil. From the rooftop patio outside the dining room, admire Madrid’s city lights, cool night air, and stunning panoramic views.

WHEN YOU GO…

Stay at the centrally located Hotel Villa Real for easy access to the Prado Museum, Retiro Park, Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum, Royal Palace of Madrid, and Gran Via high-end shopping street.

The vast breakfast buffet and attentive waitstaff will ensure you start your mornings fueled with fresh coffee and juice, plenty of meats and cheeses, fresh and dried fruits, pastries, cereals, and eggs-to-order. On your way to breakfast, explore the art and archeology collection in the hotel’s museum, which holds restored Roman mosaics and sculptures, and a private collection of painted Apulian vases.

Breakfast at Hotel Villa Real is varied, colorful, and fresh.

The East 47 bar and restaurant off the front lobby serves drinks, tapas, crisp salads, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes—with terrace seating out front in Plaza de las Cortes during warmer summer months.

For more information about Madrid, go to Visit Madrid.

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Spain’s Enchanting City of Flowery Patios

Medieval charm and floral beauty captivate visitors to Cordoba

Story and photos by Randy Mink

As you’re exploring the cobbled streets of this sun-kissed city in Southern Spain’s Andalusia region, it’s a smart move to escape the heat by stepping into a leafy courtyard festooned with flowers, draped in greenery and surrounded by thick, whitewashed walls. Harking back to Cordoba’s deep Arabic roots, these cool oases cast a magical spell.

Tucked into the largest urban historic center in Spain, the city’s trademark patios have always been a chief tourist draw. Architectural gems as well as horticultural havens, they mirror the tradition of cultivating flowers and plants introduced by the Moors when the Iberian Peninsula was ruled from Cordoba by Muslim emirs and caliphs. A respected seat of learning and artistic expression during its heyday in the 10th and early 11th centuries, Cordoba reigned as medieval Europe’s cultural capital, a city second in importance only to Constantinople. Christians, under King Ferdinand III of Castile, conquered Cordoba in 1236, ending five centuries of Muslim rule.

Tourists can take in the horticultural splendor on a tour of private patios in Cordoba’s San Basilio neighborhood.
Tourists can take in the horticultural splendor on a tour of private patios in Cordoba’s San Basilio neighborhood.

For two weeks every May, Cordoba celebrates its blooming courtyards during the Patio Festival (Festival de los Patios), an event held annually since 1921. About 50 private homes, competing for awards as the loveliest, open up their inner sanctums to the public—for free.

On my trip to Cordoba this past October, I was still able to view some private patios. In the San Basilio neighborhood, our group booked a tour (offered nearly year-round) that got us into the patios of five houses dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, a time when several poor families shared a communal courtyard. The common kitchen in some patios has been preserved and is on display. But the stars of the show are pots brimming with geraniums, impatiens, petunias, marigolds and other flower varieties, along with vines, shrubbery, rose bushes, and cascades of jasmine and raspberry-red bougainvillea. Orange, lemon, olive and fig trees also set the stage in these lush mini paradises, one of which is occupied by artisan shops specializing in handcrafted leather, ceramics, silver jewelry and perfumes.

FLORA: Blending Art and Nature

My October visit coincided with a relatively new cultural event that nods to Cordoba’s floral and botanical heritage. Called FLORA, the week-long, free-admission festival features five installations in public courtyards within walking distance of each other in the historic center. Using plants and other natural materials, five international artists vie for monetary prizes. We saw creations by competitors from Mexico, Brazil, the United States and Spain.

Bamboo canes and fountains in an art installation — Bamboo canes and fountains dominate the winning entry in FLORA 2025, an annual competition between international artists using plants and other natural materials to create large installations in existing patios in Cordoba.

FLORA 2025’s first-place winner was Wagner Kreusch, a Brazilian who fashioned a monumental structure out of green bamboo canes, fountains, a misting feature, and purple and white aspidistra flowers. Titled Rio Flotante, or “Floating River,” his entry wowed onlookers at Palacio de Viana, the estate of the aristocratic marquises of Viana until 1980. Now a major tourist attraction, the 16th century palace has 12 plant-filled patios, each with a story to tell, and rooms displaying collections of furniture, weapons, porcelain, tapestries and paintings.

Cordoba’s Historic Heart

Threads of Christian and Jewish history, intertwined with vestiges of Roman, Visigoth and Moorish rule, emerge from every corner of Cordoba’s UNESCO-recognized historic quarter, a tourist-friendly maze of narrow lanes snaking between white buildings adorned with iron-grillwork windows, doors and balconies.

city gate and ancient walls — This surviving city gate provides entry through the ancient walls of Cordoba’s historic center.

Practically all the city’s top sights lie within this easily walkable district, but it’s also fun just to wander and get lost in the labyrinth, where flower-decked patios, orange trees, and festive taverns and outdoor cafes typify the gracious lifestyle of Andalusia, the region that conjures up our most romantic visions of Spain. Within the old city walls, you’ll also find plenty of souvenir shops. A highlight for our group was a rousing flamenco show with dinner at El Jaleo, an intimate room where dancers electrified us with some thunderous stomping.

people walking down narrow street of shops — The intimate lanes of Cordoba’s historic center provide ideal settings for shopping, relaxing at cafes and just getting lost in medieval times.

Jewish Quarter

The medieval Jewish Quarter, or Juderia, is the historic core’s most atmospheric neighborhood, and its pleasures lay right outside the door of our hotel, the NH Collection Amistad Cordoba. Featuring flower-decked alleyways and patios, along with reminders of Jewish culture that flourished in Cordoba long ago, the quarter is home to the Synagogue, built in 1315. No longer used for worship, it’s the only Jewish temple in Andalusia to survive the Inquisition in 1492, when Jews were expelled from Spain or forced to convert to Christianity. Inside the small building you see Hebrew inscriptions, Arabic decoration and even a Cross (it was used as a church in the 19th century). For many years the Jews lived in harmony with the Muslims and some held prestigious positions in the government, professions and arts. Toledo claims Spain’s other two remaining medieval synagogues.

town street with people sitting at cafe tables — Cordoba’s atmospheric Jewish Quarter offers souvenir shops, cafes and a cozy medieval feel.

Nearby, in a beautifully restored 14th century house, Casa de Sefarad is a museum that tells the story of the Sephardic Jews in Iberia and other Mediterranean lands (a group differentiated from the Ashkenazi Jews of Central and Eastern Europe).

At the Bullfighting Museum (Museo Taurino), right across the plaza from my hotel, I learned about some of Cordoba’s greatest matadors. Though much of the exhibit text was in Spanish only, the two short audio-visual presentations provided an option in English. With a wrap-around screen, one film puts you right in the middle of the ring with a ferocious bull.

Cordoba’s Crown Jewel: The Mezquita

First-time Cordoba visitors make a beeline to the Mezquita, a former mosque that has been a church since the 13th century. Rather than destroy the mosque, the Christians decided to modify it. In fact, the church—complete with an elaborate main altar, a giant nave, an organ, religious artwork, tombs of important citizens and intricately carved Cuban mahogany choir stalls—appears to have been plopped smack into the middle of the mosque. The cavernous Mezquita (Spanish for “Mosque”) was once the second largest mosque in the world after the Great Mosque in Mecca.

A seemingly endless forest of columns and arches mesmerizes visitors to the Mezquita, a mosque turned church. It is Cordoba’s most important tourist sight.
The Mezquita’s bell tower was built over the mosque’s minaret around 1600.
The Mezquita, once the second-largest mosque in the world, has been a Catholic church since the 13th century.

The Mezquita’s most dazzling sight is the endless forest of marble, granite and onyx columns topped with red-and-white-striped, horseshoe-shaped double arches, Islamic style; many of the pillars were recycled from Roman and Visigothic times. Fashioned over the centuries from a jumble of architectural styles, the dimly lit Mosque-Cathedral, as it’s known, is vast, mysterious and hard to wrap your head around. The columned arcades seem to march on forever, melting into infinity. There is no other building like it.

I wanted to climb the Mezquita’s bell tower (built around 1600 over remains of the mosque’s minaret), but tickets for the day were sold out. So, I crossed the Guadalquivir River via the 2,000-year-old Roman Bridge, a wide pedestrian walkway, and took in panoramic views from the rooftop terrace of the Calahorra Tower, a crenellated 1369 structure that houses a museum of Andalusian culture.

The rooftop terrace of Calahorra Tower affords fine views of Cordoba’s historic center, the Roman Bridge and the Guadalquivir River.
The Roman Bridge, a wide pedestrian walkway, spans the Guadalquivir River.

The bridge and Mezquita are a short walk from Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, residence of the Christian monarchs. The palace-fortress currently is closed for renovations, but I enjoyed walking through its terraced gardens, admiring the plantings and statuary. One sculpture depicts Christopher Columbus being received by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, sponsors of his 1492 voyage to the New World.

three tall statues in a garden — The Alcazar Gardens in Cordoba feature a sculpture of Christopher Columbus being received by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.

flower pot with garden and trees — The terraced gardens of the Alcazar palace/fortress are a must-see in Cordoba.

When it comes to destinations in Andalusia, Cordoba often gets short shrift, as Seville and Granada tend to get the most attention. But Cordoba should be on every traveler’s radar. Indeed, this overlooked city merits a day or two for a good looking over.

For more information log on to www.spain.info/en/destination/cordoba/

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Exploring Germany: Culture, Cuisine, and History on Viking Cruises

Even a 45-minute lecture can prepare you for the sights and scenes of Germany

Story and photos by Sharon Hudgins

Cruise Lecture Teaches History, Culture
If you watch Masterpiece and other programs on public television in America, you’re probably familiar with the phrase, “Viking. Proud sponsor of…”—accompanied by images from Viking’s “longboat” cruises on the Rhine, Mosel, and Danube rivers in Europe. Other times you see wanderlust-invoking scenes from Viking’s ocean-going fleet, which sails the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the Baltic and Mediterranean seas, and beyond, encircling the globe. And occasionally you’ll see the two new Viking polar-class expedition ships, the “Octantis” and “Polaris,” that sail to Antarctica in the Southern Hemisphere and the Great Lakes in the Northern Hemisphere.

Since 2017 I’ve had the pleasure of being a guest speaker on Viking Ocean Cruises in Europe, giving lectures on historical, cultural, and culinary topics aboard ships sailing from Viking’s home port in Bergen, Norway, to most of the countries bordering on the Baltic Sea.

The “Viking Sea” ship docked at a Baltic port.

That itinerary follows the routes of the Hanseatic League, the medieval trading confederation that linked the countries of England, northern Europe, and Russia, and also the routes of the earlier, historical Vikings, who plied the waters of the Baltic, too.

Viking prides itself on focusing on the history and cultures of every country on its itineraries. So the cruise director on each ship schedules lectures about those destinations one or two days before the ship arrives in a port, to prepare passengers for the sights, sounds, and tastes of each new country they visit.

While the cruise ship guests are away during the day on shore excursions to a variety of places in those countries, the ship’s staff refills the vessel’s fuel tanks, cleans the guest rooms and public spaces, restocks food supplies, and prepares meals for hungry passengers when they come back on board. The singers, dancers, and musicians also use that time to rehearse their next shows on stage.

Cultural Stereotypes and Truths
So what does that have to do with Germany? Many cruise lines sailing in the Baltic dock at the busy German port of Warnemünde. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Warnemünde and the surrounding area, as a guest speaker on Viking, National Geographic-Lindblad, and Oceania cruises, as well as on press trips for journalists gathering new material for articles to write. But only on Viking cruises have I had the opportunity to present a 45-minute illustrated lecture about that entire country of Germany, a nation I often think of as “my second home.”

I begin with a short introduction telling how long I lived in Germany (15 years) and what I was doing there (teaching for the University of Maryland’s education programs at U.S. military bases, writing for the Stars and Stripes newspaper). I also mention that for 28 years I was a writer for German Life magazine in America, too. Then I launch into my lecture: “Germany: Land of Laptops and Lederhosen.”

A lecture on “all-of-Germany” in 45 minutes? How is that possible? Not easy without being superficial, I assure you. And that’s exactly how I begin my lecture, showing pictures of the stereotypes that many people have about Germany: Men in Lederhosen. Women wearing Dirndls. Oompah bands and choral groups clothed in traditional Trachten, too. Half-timbered houses and fairy-tale castles. Foaming mugs of beer. Strings of sausages. Pretzels!

Then I point out that stereotypes often contain a grain of truth. But they’re only one part of a many-faceted story (or country), factors that exist side-by-side with all of them being true simultaneously.

Modern Germany – Regions and Festivals
So I segue easily into modern Germany: High-speed highways. High-speed trains. High-tech industries. High fashion. Avant-garde art and architecture. Michelin-starred restaurants and Turkish döner kebab stands. And all those oh-so-wonderful German breads and pastries!

There’s no way anyone could condense centuries of German history into such a lecture. So I focus on Germany today, starting with Berlin and the country’s government (with a nod to the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall), and an overview of Germany’s population, literacy rate, national health insurance program, religions, and economy. The rest of my presentation is about the characteristics of its four main regions, from North to South, East to West, including those regions’ differing landscapes, architecture, industries, and cuisines. Then I conclude with—what else?—Oktoberfest! That world-renowned German beer festival brings me full circle back to the beginning of my lecture: The coexistence of stereotypes and deeper, often contrasting, realities in Germany today, a land of computers and cowbells indeed.

Viking Ships and Excursions
Viking’s ocean vessels carry 960 guests, plus a large, well-trained crew. While in port, most of the passengers head off on shore excursions, and even some of the ship’s employees have a few hours of shore leave, too. When the ship is docked in Warnemünde, Viking offers half-day and full-day excursions to several locations in northern Germany: the Hanseatic cities of Rostok, Lübeck, and Wismar; a classic 19th-century spa town reached by steam train; the magnificent castle in Schwerin; the grim concentration camp at Sachsenhausen.

But the most popular destination is Berlin—six hours round-trip by special train, plus six hours of touring various parts of the city and its historical sites, by chartered buses and on foot with knowledgeable guides, or just exploring Berlin on your own. One excursion even includes lunch at the Reichstag, along with a special tour of that iconic building so important in Germany’s history.

Clockwise from left: The German Reichstag in Berlin, as seen from the Spree River.
The modernistic Marie-Elizabeth-Lueders-Haus government building near the Reichstag in Berlin.
The facades of many Berlin buildings are best viewed from a boat ride on the Spree River.

On my first Baltic cruise with Viking, the only time available for my Germany lecture was at 9 p.m. on the night before we docked at Warnemünde. Since half the 960 guests on that ship had signed up for the 12-hour shore excursions to Berlin the next day—and since they all had to get up at 5 a.m. to board the train at 6 that morning—I expected only a few people to attend my lecture that night. After all, passengers could always watch a video of it on television in their own cabins, any time later during the cruise. So I was surprised when half the ship showed up for that introduction-to-Germany lecture, filling the lecture hall.

The next evening we all returned from Berlin, tired but happy, after a full day of riding the rails through the German countryside, visiting one of the world’s great capital cities, and learning so much about Berlin’s special place in history. But another treat awaited us back in Warnemünde. A red carpet led from the cruise ship terminal across the pier to the ship’s gangway. Lined up along the sides were the ship’s officers and staff, from the captain to the cabin cleaners. At the terminal each guest was handed a glass of sparkling wine, which we all tried to balance in one hand while dancing along the red carpet to lively music, with many of the crew joining in, as we made our way back to the ship.

Top: One of the modernistic fountains in Rostock, a shore excursion destination on Viking Baltic cruises.
Lower left: Street musician in Rostock, one of the cities on shore excursions from Viking ships docked at Warnemünde, Germany, on Baltic cruises.
Middle and lower right: The colorful Alter Strom inner harbor at Warnemünde is always filled with small fishing boats and sightseeing boats.

German Culinary Delights on Deck
Dinners on board that evening featured traditional German specialties, from Sauerbraten to Schnitzel, Black Forest Cherry Cake to Bavarian Cream. And of course plenty of German beers and wines, too! As we sailed away from Warnemünde, the only regret for me was leaving a country where I have such deep roots. But we still had five other Baltic countries to visit on that cruise, so who was I to complain about new adventures awaiting the next day? And there was always the prospect of another cruise, or even a different kind of job, bringing me back to Germany in the future.

One of the greatest rewards of working on tours in Germany has been introducing other people to such a fascinating country. Nothing compares with the feeling I get when a member of our tour group comes up to me and says, “Thank you for your lecture about Germany. Because of you, I saw the country with different eyes when we were there.”

Left: One of the many pretty villas overlooking the waterfront at Warnemünde.
Right: Sand sculpture at the cruise ship dock in Warnemünde.

Sharon Hudgins is a professional writer and a lecturer on educational tours to Europe, Alaska, and North Asia. See more at www.sharonhudgins.com

Visit Viking Cruises to explore cruise destinations and itineraries.

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3 Countries, 2 Ski Resorts, 1 Week in Europe

Wishing you had planned a getaway this past spring break? It’s not too early to start planning for next year, and to think big with a European adventure!

By Alison Ramsey

Stateside spring break destinations abound, but consider using that week of vacation time to explore three German-language European countries—Switzerland, Austria, and Germany—all easily reachable from each other by train. The Eurail Global Pass allows travelers to seamlessly cross country borders by rail using a single scannable QR code pass in the app. It’s a fantastic opportunity to maximize your time abroad and visit multiple countries all in one overseas trip.

Eurail train travel is scenic and comfortable, and the well-designed Eurail app makes it easy to view train schedules and plan your trip.

Time in the mountains is essential if you’re headed to the Alpine countries of Switzerland and Austria. Downhill skiing in the Alps can be exhilarating, great exercise, and a fun social activity—as proven by the millions of visitors to throng ski resorts like Davos Klosters in Switzerland and St. Anton am Arlberg in Austria each year. Both destinations are part of the Best of the Alps organization’s carefully curated collection of classic mountain resorts and offer excellent ski schools.

A 2.5-hour train ride from the Zürich Airport, the 13,000-inhabitant Alpine village of Davos is the highest city in Switzerland, at 5,147 feet above sea level. Its Ski School Davos, part of the Swiss Ski and Snowboard School, is the biggest and oldest ski school in the country. Students here can learn from patient, professional instructors, who focus on safety and ensure basic skills are mastered before introducing more difficult maneuvers or terrain. Experienced skiers have 157 miles of ski trails on 81 different slopes to explore over five separate ski areas, including the iconic Parsenn skiing and hiking area, famous for its wide pistes and long runs.

Private and group lessons are offered at Ski School Davos, with ski equipment rental available at Top Secret Ski & Snowboard Shop, directly across the street from Bolgen Plaza.

The Alps are inviting even to those not wearing skis. For a fun take on tobogganing, try sledging down the 2.2-mile Rinerhorn run in Davos. Take the ski lift to the top and pilot your wooden sledge down the steep and curving 33-bend slope—one of the most challenging sledging runs around—braking with knees bent and feet flat on the snow and changing direction by shifting weight and pulling the steering rope. It’s like high-speed Mario Kart in the mountains!

Rinerhorn has slopes for skiers and sledgers.

If you’re staying at the comfy mountain chalet Hotel Waldhuus in Davos, be sure to spend time in the large indoor pool and experience the Switzerland sauna lifestyle in their bio sauna, herbal sauna, or new Finnish sauna. Usually co-ed and textile-free, sauna visitors in Switzerland use towels simply for hygiene purposes—not as a cover-up, but to sit on so sweat doesn’t touch the wood. Sauna usage is linked to many health benefits and can lower blood pressure, improve cardiovascular health and circulation, reduce soreness after exercise, promote muscle recovery, stimulate immune system support, reduce stress, and eliminate toxins. A swim and sauna session after a full day of activity feels physically and mentally healing, especially in a clean and well-maintained facility.

Unwind in Hotel Waldhuus’ comfortable accommodations with terrific spa facilities, and try the delicious tiramisu and enormous fresh breakfast spread in the Waldhuus Restaurant.

For a taste of the Austrian Alps, a 3.5-hour train ride brings you to St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria, where you can make your home base the classy Hotel Schwarzer Adler. Here, white-glove dinner service offers perfectly flavored and artfully plated meat and vegan dishes, homemade comfort foods including butter Spätzle (egg noodle pasta), and delectable desserts like “chocolate 5 ways,” with Austrian wines for pairing. You can swim in the outdoor sky pool under the pure mountain air or unwind indoors in the relaxation room, saunas, or sparkling indoor pool. Treat yourself to a spa package from the massage menu or simply sip an espresso on your hotel room balcony with a view of snowy peaks and a soundtrack of church bells and birdsong.

The Schwarzer Adler Hotel provides luxurious dining experiences and relaxation outlets.

Skischule Arlberg is the award-winning largest ski school in Austria, founded by Hannes Schneider, the father of the modern “Arlberg technique” skiing style. Before Schneider’s development of this forward semi-squatting posture, the trend was to stand erect with rigid knees, a position derived from Nordic or cross-country skiing, which wasn’t a practical stance for the steep Tyrolian terrain. Ski instructors at Skischule Arlberg keep lessons fun and stress-free, moving at the students’ pace and providing encouragement without pushing too far beyond current comfort levels. For those unaccustomed to ski life, it’s an excellent introduction to what many Alpine locals grow up learning from a young age.

Ski School Arlberg prepares skiers to achieve their athletic goals.

An incredible highlight of St. Anton—no skis needed—is up on the very peak of Valluga, at 9,222 miles above sea level. Ride the “Galzigbahn” ski lift to the first mountain station, where you can snack at the Galzig Restaurant, shop in the ski store, and watch athletes descend the slopes. Then ascend with the “Vallugabahn I” lift through fog and clouds to the Vallugagrat station and the Valluga View Restaurant. One more ride in the small “Vallugabahn II” cable car brings you to the pinnacle lookout point—a circular railed platform open to the intense sun and whipping wind, with breathtaking views of snow-covered Alps in every direction. You have a clear panorama from Lake Constance to Switzerland and the Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. From here, you can see the extraordinary beauty of the glacier-carved gorges as well as the splendid organization of the ski resort, with numerous lifts in motion, skiers gracefully carving patterns into the snow, and sky-high facilities with everything you might need for your day in the heights.

Unbeatable Valluga views are a highlight of St. Anton am Arlberg.

Don’t leave the Alps without an après-ski experience! St. Anton am Arlberg holds many opportunities to unwind and let loose after a day of athletics. You can party hard with club music and tasty drinks at any number of après-ski huts, or partake in a casual post-ski meal at the rustic Sennhütte restaurant right on the slopes—its entrance marked by an enormous pair of Lederhosen. Either ski down the hill right to the restaurant or take a free bus trip there from the town center and hike up the WunderWanderWeg (wonder walking way) pathway from the bus stop. The back patio balcony affords an outstanding view into the mountains—a brilliant backdrop for sampling Käsespätzle (thick cheesy noodles topped with crispy fried onions), Schnitzel and Pommes (fried meat cutlets and French fries), and gulping a refreshing beer or Skiwasser (“ski water”—an alcohol-free blend of raspberry syrup, lemon juice, and water or seltzer).

Giant lederhosen and the WunderWanderWeg lead the way to Sennhütte.

Any beer fans or German-language–lovers know that Bavaria is a nearby European destination worth visiting, so travel by Eurail from St. Anton 3.5 hours northeast and you’ll end up in Munich, Germany. A short walk from the Munich main train station through a Mediterranean district brings you to the fresh and inviting greenery-filled lobby of the KOOS Hotel. A prime location near Karlsplatz bus and streetcar stops, the KOOS Hotel is also within easy walking distance of the Altstadt, Munich’s medieval old town. KOOS Hotel’s vegan-friendly personal care products in the rooms and numerous vegetarian and vegan breakfast selections are a welcome perk for those with specific preferences and dietary needs. The hotel is also a role model for sustainability and is entirely paperless, with a digital check-in process and novel phone-activated room entry in lieu of a room key. This family- and dog-friendly haven near the city center has all you need for your stay, including an in-room washing machine and clothesline for freshening up travel clothes.

Environmental consideration and convenience are key at KOOS Hotel.

If you’re looking to buy some “new-to-you” threads, consider a walk to Holareidulijö traditional Bavarian clothing store. Affable and knowledgeable shop owner, Michaela Klein, lovingly restores and resells used Dirndl, Lederhosen, hats, vests, and myriad Bavarian accessories and jewelry, while offering an assortment of new shirts and socks to match her wares. During Oktoberfest season, Klein’s store and the extra garage unit in back are packed with shoppers searching rows of racks for colorful festival outfits and drinking the free beer she offers during her busiest weeks.

Holareidulijö is a treasure trove of authentic, high-quality refurbished Trachten.

For a fantastic meal and some Augustiner beer or a selection from about 160 different wines, head to Xaver’s—a stylish restaurant and brew pub with a warm wood interior and a mix of small and large tables for date night or Stammtisch (“regulars’ table,” where friends recurrently gather to eat, drink, and socialize). Here, young and old alike are drawn to the restaurant motto’s “refreshingly traditional” vibe that features fun and friendly staff clad in traditional Bavarian costume (including genial owner Xaver himself, a sommelier and one of several restaurant-owning brothers). The menu features classic Bavarian dishes reimagined with a fresh take using locally farmed ingredients, as well as innovative entrees that change every six weeks. The lively music and cheerful atmosphere make you want to come back and be part of the scene— same time next week.

With a fresh take on Old World style, Xaver’s serves locally grown foods, Augustiner beer, and wines galore.

Spend a sunny day walking through the English Gardens to see brave wet-suited surfers on the man-made river waves and stop at the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm (beer garden at the Chinese tower) for a fresh-baked pretzel and a mug of beer, Maracuja (passion fruit) juice with water, or Johannisbeere (black currant) juice with water. Kids can play on the jungle gym while adults chat and people-watch, all while listening to the lively oompah band playing from the second level of the tower.

On a nice day, the English Gardens fills with picnickers, volleyball players, surfers, and groups of friends.

For a dose of education, head to the Deutsches Museum, one of the world’s largest natural science and technology museums. Through hands-on experiments and interactive exhibits, explore the physics of light and sound, observe chemical reactions, and learn about human body physiology. An enormous aviation center and historic airplane hangar allow visitors to climb into cockpits and pilot model airplanes. In the Musical Instruments exhibition, try your hand at playing the theremin—an electronic musical instrument played by placing hands in the air between two antennas that sense the hands’ positions and control frequency and volume.

Deutsches Museum interactive exhibits make learning fun.

After two nights in each city—Davos, Switzerland; St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria; and Munich, Germany—a flight out of Munich Airport concludes an adventure exploring towns in three different countries all within one week. Thanks to Eurail’s flexible Global Pass, it is a fantastic way to get a taste of multiple countries with just one set of airline flights!

Eurail offers speedy and smooth transportation, and window seats to beautiful scenery.

Looking for more ski opportunities? Visit bestofthealps.com to learn more about top ski resorts that help define and cultivate Alpine culture. Best of the Alps is a collection of 9 Alpine resorts that showcase mountain village magic and charm in Switzerland, Austria, France, and Italy. For more than 30 years, the Best of the Alps organization has encouraged exploration of the cultures, communities, traditions, natural wonders, and distinctions of these remarkable Alpine destinations: Chamonix-Mont-Blanc and Megève in France; Cortina d’Ampezzo and Courmayeur in Italy; Crans-Montana and Davos Klosters in Switzerland; and Kitzbühel, Lech Zürs am Arlberg, and St. Anton am Arlberg in Austria.

Best Art Museums & Architecture for a Weekend in Barcelona

By Megan Kudla

Barcelona is a haven for art, especially being home to some of Antoni Gaudí’s most famous architectural wonders. The city also has world-class museums, with works that date back from the medieval times to more contemporary eras. If you’ve only got one weekend in Barcelona, but want to see as much art as possible, here’s a guide to the some of the best art museums and architecture tours.

Tip: If you’re extending your trip, you can purchase the ArticketBCN pass, which gets you entry into 6 of the top art museums across the city for a flat fee of 38€. (Plus, it comes in the form of a little red passport that gets stamped along the way. How cute is that?)

Sagrada Familia
The pinnacle piece of architecture in Barcelona, the Sagrada Familia, should be first on your list. It’s also the most popular attraction in the area—when you are booking your flight and your hotel, go ahead and book this, too. Tickets range from 26€ to 40€. Marvel at the intricate sculptures adorning the outside and the mesmerizing colors that dance below the stained glass on the inside of this architectural monster, which is still under construction to this day.

Tip: The beginning and end of the self-guided tour are located on the outside of the Sagrada Familia, where you can admire the intricacies of Gaudí’s designs that display the Nativity Façade and the Passion Façade. This means that you should bring a jacket if you’re visiting during the fall or winter months.

Gaudí’s designs at the Sagrada Familia feature intricate sculptures.

Park Güell
The second most popular Gaudí architectural site is probably Park Güell, a maze of green
spaces, viaducts, terraces, colorful mosaics, and more. Tickets are 18€ starting in 2025, and
you’ll also want to buy these ahead of your trip. As soon as you enter the park, you can
download an app with a helpful map that will direct you to the different parts of the park to
enjoy at your own leisure.

Tip: The Gaudí House Museum, where he lived from 1906 to 1925, is a separate ticket you can add on to your park entrance fee.

The beautiful Park Güell offers much to explore.

Casa Batlló
The final Gaudí tour to book in Barcelona would be Casa Batlló. Gaudí was commissioned by D. Josep Batlló in the early 1900s to redesign this building that would have been otherwise demolished. His inspiration pulled heavily from water, paying heed to organic shapes in the structure, as well as how natural light played with color upon ascending the multiple levels. Budget around 30€ for a general ticket.

Tip: Book an early time slot; the rooms are small, with lots of visitors clamoring to see this one-of-a-kind house. Then, if you find yourself particularly interested in the Gaudí style, put Casa Milá and Casa Vicens on your list.

Gaudí’s redesign of the Casa Batlló building is water-inspired.

Palau de la Música
The shorter, slightly cheaper tour of the Palau de la Música was worth the time and money. Tickets are 22€, or only 16€ if you are over 65 or under 35 years old. The guided tour pairs you with an expert who will take you through the beautiful Lluís Millet Room and balcony, the busy foyer (which doubles as a restaurant-cafeteria), and, of course, the colorful and breathtaking Concert Hall.

Tip: The concert schedule is filled with opera, flamenco, coral, symphonic acts, and more. Plan a tour in the afternoon, then buy tickets to see the venue live and in action in the evening.

Palau de la Música’s Concert Hall is an exquisite venue for musical events.

Museu Picasso
Part of the ArticketBCN, Museu Picasso was one of my favorite art museums. Not only does it house around 5,000 of Picasso’s works, but it’s a great showcase of the wide range of his
artistic talents. The cubism that Picasso is known for is not the only style he’s mastered. When visiting, you’ll get to see work from all periods of his life, from the classical work when he began studying art, to his Blue Period, and even ceramics.

Tip: It’s right next door to the Modern Contemporary (Moco) Museum and across the small
street from the Museu Etnològic i de Cultures del Món. Why not make it a full day, with a stop at the corner Brunells pastry shop in between?

Museu Picasso features more than 5,000 of Picasso’s works.

Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya
The Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya is as much an architectural site as it is an art museum. Located in the Parc de Montjuïc, you won’t miss the towering Palau Nacional on top of a huge hill. Take the many steps (or public escalators!) to the top, and hours of browsing artwork is at your fingertips. A top highlight is the collection of Romanesque art with murals that date back to the 11th to 13th centuries.

Tip: This is also a great stop for an aerial view of the city and mountains. If you’ve been looking for a photo opp, here it is!

Artwork and photo opps abound at Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya.

You can make a whole weekend surrounding just the art and architecture of Barcelona.
Between galleries, house tours, and live performances, you’ve got a city that’s filled with
centuries of artistic feats that now make this European city one of the most sought-after tourist destinations. Plan ahead, but don’t overbook each day—you’ll want time to savor each special site.