Dining – Page 21 – European Traveler

Wacker’s at Kornmarkt 9

A coffee shop with history and flavor

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author or as noted

Wacker’s Kaffee is a third generation family-owned and run coffee shop in Frankfurt, Germany, which I heard about while on a city tour bus.

As the bus zipped past the small shop at Kornmart 9, I had just enough time to see its facade and notice all the customers lined up for coffee. The tour guide recommended the little establishment, which has been in business since 1914, or nearly 100 years.

It’s taken a while for me to actually “like” a good cup of strong German coffee, but now when I return to the U.S., I miss its rich flavor. So a taste-testing trip to this shop was in order, especially since I knew how to find it, and the small shop looked interesting.

When time allowed, it was back to the shop, and trying to squeeze in the shop among the other customers was a challenge. Customers were lined up both for coffee to drink right there—Germany hasn’t become tuned in yet to the term “to go”—and to buy coffee beans in bags.

FILLED WITH CUSTOMERS
The several tables outside were filled with customers in December savoring their hot cups of Wacker’s kaffee, while others at the inside counter were purchasing bags of coffee beans and other Wacker’s products (they sell coffee mugs and other coffee-related items).

To keep customers a bit warmer outside, the seats are covered in the burlap bags from the coffee beans, a nice touch.

In the rear of the shop, customers were crowded around several tables, enjoying their coffee and kuchen, which is also served.

The business began when Luise Wacker opened a coffee shop at the location in 1914. Previous to this, a store was located here where the famous writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe purchased his milk supplies.

Comments about the store on Trip Advisor include these two:

“Definitely the best coffee shop in Frankfurt. There are generally two lines, both often stretching out the door; the one on the left is for those who want to order drinks, while the one on the right is for those who want to buy coffee beans. The shop is also very small with limited seating, so when the weather is nice (or even just tolerable), you will see customers spread out both in front of the shop, and sitting on the stone wall across the street, enjoying their coffee and pastries.

“What non-German speakers may find intimidating is that, when the shop is quite busy, the cashier will shout out to customers further back in the line, asking them for their order. Luckily, the words for cappuccino, espresso and latte are generally the same in both English and German, so you should feel comfortable simply shouting your order back to her. “

Another customer said: “Great coffee. The smell is worth it alone.”

Wacker’s offers a long list of ready to drink coffees, and beans, so you’ll need a moment to figure out what you want. Coffee beans, available in bags of 500 grams each, include beans from Mexico, Java, India, Nicaragua, Galapagos, Cuba and Brazil, and expresso beans come from Jamaica, Guatemala, Costa Rica and other locations. I counted 40 bean types available from the shop.

Once your order is ready, you’ll be treated to some really good coffee, German-style!

For more information, go to www.wackers-kaffee.de.

InterContinental Hotel at Frankfurt City Center

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

I haven’t been to perhaps more than six InterContinental hotels in my lifetime, but I have to admit that each one more than exceeded my expectations.

Many are oases in the middle of busy cities, with street noise and lots of hustle and bustle; yet, entering the lobby of the Frankfurt (Germany) hotel, I found myself already starting to relax.

The Frankfurt City Center hotel on Wilhelm-Leuschner Strasse, managed by Thomas Hilberath, who has a knack for pleasing his upscale guests, attracts a clientele with above average income. This includes many businessmen, but also leisure travelers, who come to Frankfurt to take in the sites. And when the annual Christmas Market begins in Advent, it’s just a 15 minute walk from the hotel to the Roemer Platz, where this popular event is held.

BUSY LOBBY
The lobby exudes a warm atmosphere and is a very busy place at 10 a.m., with professionals having discussions in the hotel’s lobby lounges. At the same time, bags await transfer to waiting cabs, and the hotel staff keeps busy helping guests find directions, check out and check in.

This 21-story hotel towers above the Main River and affords spectacular views of the city center as well as the Main. One of my night shots of the river from the top floor could probably win a prize.

The 770 rooms available are classed as standard, deluxe and suites, and a different range of services and room footage come with each type of room.

From my corner room I got a sweeping view of the skyscrapers from one set of windows and what was going on near the river on the other side of the room out the other windows.

Standard rooms of 280 square feet feature warm room colors and are equipped with high-speed internet connections. Bathrooms feature a black and cream and gold design. Bathrobes, hair dryers, in-room safe, coffee maker/tea-maker, mini-bar and iron/ironing board are featured in all standard rooms, as is a work desk, television with cable and satellite channels.

Deluxe rooms are on the 19th and 20th floors of the River Wing (the hotel has two wings, one across the street from the other), and measure about 540 square feet. There is turn-down service at night, complimentary morning newspaper and a separate check-in area at the front desk for these guests. Deluxe rooms also feature a separate sitting area, and the bathrooms are roomier and even more upscale with more features. A valet service is also available in Deluxe rooms.

The Panorama Suites feature an elegant living room, a more luxurious bedroom, a whirlpool and even a complimentary meeting room.

24-HOUR FITNESS ROOM
Strolling around the hotel, you’ll find a 24-hour health-fitness center on the ground floor, which is complimentary; massages, manicures and facials can be arranged. The business center offers high speed internet and wireless LAN in public areas such as the hotel lobby.

On the 21st floor is the Club InterContinental Lounge for guests of this floor. The bar on the first floor, which takes its name from the German stock market index, DAX, and Frankfurt’s skyscraper-inspired nickname, DAXx Mainhattan’s Bar, is located just off the lobby and stays open until 1 a.m.

Two restaurants offer guests modern cuisine as well as Italian specialties. Signatures Veranda Restaurant features a fusion of haute cuisine from across Europe, with a menu to suit every palate featuring varying themes. Regional dishes, steak, or fish are available and served in the private dining room, summer terrace or veranda, depending on the weather. The dining room is also where breakfast is served.

Breakfast is a hearty meal, with juice, eggs, scrambled or to order, sausages, bacon, potatoes, toast, tomatoes, beans, breads, jams and jellies, cold cuts, cereals, coffee and even champagne, plus plenty more for those who need to carb up for a long day. The wait staff is pleasant and courteous.

Leons Italian Restaurant, inside the hotel, is where you can enjoy a long, leisurely meal in the ambiance of a 1920s-style Italian cafe. Popular classics include pasta, pizza and meat and fish dishes, and a cold glass of beer or wine tops off the meal. The large bar area and live piano music lure young professionals, who often stop by for drinks after work.

Trip Advisor customer comments about the hotel include these two: “Excellent, quick check-in. Room may have been small, but it was clean and comfortable, along with nice large towels. Breakfast was very good with great coffee. Very close to the train station and a beautiful walk along the river to the Christmas market. “

A second comment was, “The staff (was) quick to complete the check-in formalities. The travel desk is also very informative. Breakfast is good and location is very close to main station.”

I’d stay at the InterContinental again. Good location next to the busy train station and to the main part of busy “Mainhattan,” good food and service, and a competitive price add up to what I’d call a hotel with staying power.

For more information, go to www.frankfurt.intercontinental.com or www.intercontinental.com.

200 Years of German Beer Gardens

Photos courtesy Munich Tourist Office

In 2012, Munich and Upper Bavaria are celebrating an old Bavarian tradition. The 200th anniversary of the edict which permitted beer brewers to sell retail quantities of their own beer in their beer cellars from June until September and to serve beer and bread to their guests will be celebrated this year. The city and the breweries of Munich will offer numerous events in local beer gardens.

MUNICH – THE WORLD CITY OF BEER
Big city, high-tech atmosphere mixed with rural charm, art treasures and traditional customs create a very special “Munich mix” which has helped the capital of Bavaria to achieve world renown. But what adds the final touch to the city’s popularity is the drink associated with Munich throughout the world: beer.

BEER GARDEN ETIQUETTE
Bavarian beer gardens fulfill an important social function, as they have always been considered to be a popular meeting point for a wide spectrum of the populace. Visitors should not hesitate to take a seat and start up a conversation with their neighbors at the table. Munich’s beer gardens and the beer gardens in Upper Bavaria are the epitome of Bavarian Gemütlichkeit – the uniquely Bavarian atmosphere of good living, warmth and comfort. And it’s been that way for 200 years.

BRING YOUR OWN FOOD
Bring your own food! A special element of visiting a traditional beer garden in Munich is the fact that guests can bring their own food with them. A perfect Brotzeit, as a beer garden picnic is known, might contain the following: Obazda (a delicious and very Bavarian soft cheese dip), Emmental cheese, radishes, freshly-baked pretzels, butter and salt and pepper. A table cloth is also important (preferably a cotton red and white check), as are wooden boards to eat from, a sharp knife, cutlery and napkins.

But those who come unprepared don’t have to miss out on a Bavarian Brotzeit. Most beer gardens offer a range of typical treats, such as Wurstsalat (finely sliced sausage, dressed with vinaigrette and onions), Leberkäse (Bavarian meat loaf) or Steckerlfisch (barbecued whole fish, normally mackerel).

In a Bavarian beer garden, self-service is the rule, unless it is clear that tables have been readied for service. Typical beer garden drinks, such as beer or Radler (a mix of beer and lemonade or lemon soda), are generally only served in one liter steins. Alcohol-free drinks, such as Spezi (a mixture of cola and orange soda) or Apfelschorle (a mixture of apple juice and mineral water), are normally served in half-liters.

The most important rule when toasting with others at your table is to do it as often as possible, so creating a sense of community and giving you the chance to make contact with your new friends. But don’t forget to look your drinking partners in the eye as you touch steins.

The reason horse chestnut trees can be found in every “real” Bavarian beer garden is a matter of history. According to a decree from the 16th century, brewing beer was banned in the summer months, due to the increased danger of fire. Therefore, beer that was brewed in spring for summer was made with a higher alcohol content to help preserve it. In order to keep the beer cool, beer cellars were constructed close to the breweries, but because Munich has a high groundwater level, deep cellars were out of the question, meaning that those that could be built had to be protected from the sun. And that is why trees which provide a lot of shade, such as horse chestnut trees, were planted above them.

BIER UND OKTOBERFEST MUSEUM, BEER TOURS & MORE
Munich is the capital of beer – with six breweries, the Hofbräuhaus and the Oktoberfest. Interested in the story of beer? How German beer effected the monasteries and the purity law? Why is the quality of Munich’s beer so unique? Did you know that Oktoberfest was established as the national festival for the wedding of King Ludwig I with Princess Therese of Saxe-Hildburghausen? Visit the Bier und Oktoberfest Museum for the answer to these questions and a lot more.

For more info, go to www.muenchen.de

Le Meridien Parkhotel

Prime location in the center of Frankfurt’s bustling downtown

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

This German 297-room hotel is more than 100 years old, having been built in 1905 as a palace with 77 rooms and suites, designed in the Art Nouveau style.

There are also 220 guest rooms in the newer wing which are highlighted by clean lines and modern design. At night, the hotel’s welcoming exterior sign, in lights and in a script style of writing, gives the hotel’s entrance a unique flair.

Located within easy walking distance of the main Frankfurt train station, the hotel is convenient for leisure as well as business travelers, as the main Frankfurt Trade Fair Center is only five minutes away. The museum district is also close by.

NEAR IDYLLIC PARK AREA
The hotel is located on the quiet and idyllic Wiesenhuttenplatz, and in the summer months you can sit underneath the towering chestnut trees in the beer garden La Jardin and sip your favorite beverage.

Marble lobby floors, dark wood paneling accents and plenty of room to maneuver luggage give the hotel’s entrance floor a graciousness and style. A cozy bar, the Morocco-style Casablanca with high-backed leather chairs, at one end of the lobby, beckons thirsty guests to come in for some relaxation. The sign over the bar’s door from the lobby side is a light-projected image. Just down the street is a lively bar/restaurant area should you want to mingle with the street crowd. The reception desk or concierge can direct you.

As at many of the other hotels in the vicinity, there is a choice of room types, with varying degrees of comfort, space and amenities. There are 25 Classic rooms located in the historical palace portion of the hotel, with high ceilings and real Italian marble in the bathrooms. The average room size here is about 130 square feet.

Superior rooms, and there are 177 of them, are in the modern business wing of the hotel and offer 270 square feet of space. Modern in design, the rooms feature a television with a LCD and plasma screens (and a handy mirror on the other side of the screen), a safe and a complimentary bottle of mineral water.

Executive rooms— with about 322 square feet of space—are in the historical palace portion of the building and provide decor in the Art Nouveau style but with modern amenities. The Deluxe rooms, with 355 square feet of space, offer more room for a comfortable stay. There are also Junior Suites, with about 485 square feet of space— available with separate living and sleeping areas. These are in the Art Nouveau style, and offer classical elegance with very high ceilings, inviting color tones and bathrooms featuring Italian marble. The hotel also says you receive the “VIP” treatment when you book a room of this category.

INVITING BREAKFAST
Buffet-style breakfasts consist of smoked salmon, cold cuts and cheese, eggs to order, soft boiled eggs, dried cereals, yogurt, juices and coffee, fresh cut fruits, apples, oranges, bananas, jams and jellies, a variety of breads and pastries, plus more.

The spacious, modern Restaurant La Parc off the lobby, with Sven Frambach as chef, offers a mix of both traditional classics and newer dishes. Using fresh ingredients, seasonal accents and Frambach’s expertise, each dish is “a little piece of art.” The menu is a la carte, with monthly specials, and culinary events are planned throughout the year. As an example, pumpkin was recently featured through the first week of November, then goose was the specialty of the house.

The restaurant is open between 6:30 a.m. and 11 p.m. There is also a business lunch buffet that alternates specialties from time to time. Every Friday starting at 6:30 p.m. there’s a special Laurent’s dinner buffet, inspired by French cuisine and accompanied by piano music. The price also includes a glass of Laurent-Perrier champagne, a carafe of the red or white house wine and mineral water.

The White Stone Lounge wellness center in the hotel offers saunas, herbal steam rooms, massages, cosmetic treatments, manicures and pedicures and exotic applications such as lotus petal facials and body peelings. A gym is also open daily between 5 a.m. and midnight.

Having come to the hotel from the main train station, and it was raining heavily, I was glad to see the Le Meridien such a short walk from the station. The reception clerk offered a friendly greeting, and quickly I was off to my room.

Convenient location, personable employees and some historic atmosphere make for a good mix at the Le Meridien.

For more information, go to www.lemeridienparkhotelfrankfurt.com or www.lemeridien.com.

Finding the Black Diamonds

Hunting truffles in the Dordogne

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger

Dining in the Dordogne most certainly brings opportunities to pair wine with the other specialties of the area: foie gras, strawberries, walnuts and truffles.

In fact, the Perigord is known for producing the very best black truffle, an aromatic fungus resembling a small black potato. To experience this local treasure, I spent a delightful morning at Truffiere de Pechalifour, the truffle farm of Edouard Aynaud, learning the art of truffle hunting.

After meeting the high-energy Edouard, we entered a glass-doored, yellow stone building, where Edouard snaps open the lid of a large plastic bowl holding several black truffles, and thrusts it in my face. “Smell this,” he says in French, insisting that once you have this scent in your head, you’ll never forget it.

Truffle farm
Edouard’s truffle-sniffing border collie

The valuable black truffle, sometimes called the Black Diamond, can command 1,000 Euros per kilogram, since the demand is always greater than the supply. Our host holds up a kiwi-sized truffle and we play “how much is this truffle worth?” My husband wins with his guess of 10 Euros, when the small scale records the truffle’s weight as 10 grams.

Now the lesson begins: truffles grow at the base of oak and hazelnut trees. The spores of the truffle form a web of mycorrhizal filaments that permeate both the soil and the roots of the trees. These filaments help the trees obtain nutrients from the soil, and in turn, the trees provide the truffle with needed sugars. Once this network spreads, there is a telltale brown circular area around the base of the tree called a “burn.” In the wild, this symbiotic relationship occurs with luck.

Here on the 10-acre Pechalifour farm, Edouard’s father planted his first trees in 1968. Today new tree seedlings with truffle spores grafted onto their roots are planted in the hopes of increasing the truffle crop. Edouard holds up a 2-foot-tall oak seedling to illustrate, and tells us that you must plant it and pray, and maybe in several years (3? 6? 10?) the telltale “burn” will appear. He explains that sadly, not many young people are getting into this business because it requires so much patience and optimism.

Edouard, however, personifies optimism and joy, explaining his craft in rapid-fire French (admirably translated by our local guide) and punctuated with animated facial expressions and gestures worthy of Marcel Marceau.

Once the “burn” is identified, there are three methods to locate the truffles beneath it:

With a pig. Grinning, Edouard holds up a Cracker-Jack-toy-sized pink plastic pig to illustrate. Furthermore, he continues, it must be a female pig. Why? Because the truffle scent mimics that of a male pig sex hormone.
With a stick. Now he whacks a slender willow stick several times across the length of the table. Tapping a stick around the area of the “burn” disturbs a little brown fly that likes to lay its eggs on a ripe truffle, so that its larvae can feed on the nutrients. A short video illustrates that the fly’s brown color renders it invisible at rest. But once disturbed, the fly will rise up and then return to the location of the truffle, which must be harvested before the egg-laying, larva-eating process begins.
With a dog. The dogs must be trained while they are very young to recognize and search for the truffle scent. For that, Edouard uses the plastic film containers used before the age of digital photography. He pokes holes into the container and fills it with cotton that has been moistened with truffle oil. Then for one week he plays fetch with his canine student, rolling the container a little distance away, and rewarding the pup with treats and love when the prize is returned. The next week he hides the container in corners or behind something, and again rewards its return with treats and praise. The third week he buries the container outside under a little bit of soil and waits three days so that it no longer carries his human scent, but only the scent of the truffle, before sending the dog to find it. At the end of three weeks, with lots of praise and treats, the dog is trained.

Suddenly we are aware of a yellow labrador and a young black and white border collie snuffling around our feet, obviously eager to get to work. Edouard grabs a basket, some dog treats and a digging tool, and assuring us that he did not hide truffles ahead of time for us to find, we begin our spirited trek though the trees.

Pointing out brown fly in “burn” area where truffle lie

Walking slightly ahead of us, Edouard sees the telltale “burn” around the base of a tree, and gives his dog the command. Within seconds, the dog sniffs and puts his paw on a spot. Edouard scoops up a handful of the moist soil and sniffs it, crowing gleefully when he detects the scent of the hidden truffle. He pushes into my hands the special two-sided truffle-digging tool: pointed pick at one end, flat scraping blade at the other, and tells me to dig — but gently! We’re not digging up potatoes!

Soon my delicate poking isn’t fast enough for him and he rakes his fingers through the mud until he isolates the prize. After pointing to exactly where I should look, he lets me make the final discovery. Voila! There it is — and it’s tennis-ball HUGE! But, alas, it is spoiled inside because of the recent unfavorable weather. Edouard rewards his dog with a treat and a cuddle, and then crushes the truffle with his fingers and reburies it on the spot, so its spores can sprout again.

The best months for harvesting ripe truffles in the Perigord is December, January and February, and then only if the weather conditions have been favorable — too much rain and they grow too fast and don’t ripen at the right time. All in all, it’s a business that needs luck — and lots of dog treats.
www.truffe-perigord.com