Food – European Traveler

Learning Language in the Lap of Luxury

If “learn another language” is on your bucket list, but you’re not into classrooms, group travel, or homestays… keep reading.

By Abbey Algiers

This fall I took my 19th trip to Spain. 19 trips, yes. That number is due to a love affair with Spain that began at age nine, on a family trip to Madrid. Next came Spanish summer school (at the ripe age of 10), then high school and college trips to Spain, followed by years of traveling there as a Spanish teacher. Now, as a travel writer and Spain specialist, Spain remains at the top of my list.

Yet, even with all of my years of travel and Spanish practice, I still look for opportunities to improve my Spanish. This past fall, I experienced a language and immersion tour that ranks as one of my most fulfilling cultural, learning, and personal growth experiences in Spain—and might be of interest if you’ve ever said, “I really want to learn another language and live like a local.”

woman with sunglasses posing on a shopping street — *Fresh out of a hair salon in Madrid, living like a local.*

Language Immersion in Sevilla and Madrid

I set out in October 2025 to spend two weeks in Spain—starting with a week in Sevilla, followed by one in Madrid. My goal was simple—to refresh my Spanish and enrich my knowledge of Spanish culture. And, if I’m being honest, I also wanted to stay in a beautiful hotel, unplug, and recharge.

Maybe at this point you’re wondering, “Why would a former Spanish teacher need to do an immersion?” Great question. While I am fairly fluent, I have two golden rules when it comes to language learning. First, to maintain fluency or get more fluent in a language, you’ve got to use it or you’ll lose it. Second, the best way to learn a language or improve fluency is to immerse yourself in the culture.

Working within my schedule, I started searching for a Spanish immersion program that met my non-negotiables: no classrooms or groups (I’d had my fill as a teacher), flexible scheduling to fit my freelance life, and a stylish hotel in a lively area. I wasn’t interested in a homestay or just any hotel. I wanted this time to be restorative as well. With that criteria—no classrooms, no groups, and luxurious accommodations—I discovered a program called Language & Luxury, or L&L. As I read the company website, it was as if they were talking directly to me—no classrooms and no groups, just private one-to-one instruction. Best of all, the experience is coupled with personalized, private cultural tours and daily cultural activities, with the option to include luxury accommodations and additional curated experiences.

Language & Luxury met my exact criteria. I could do a week in Sevilla and a week in Madrid, and even add on weeks in other Spanish cities. I got to decide when and where instruction took place, with the lessons catered to my language level and goals. I was so impressed with what L&L offered that I decided to try it. I’m here to take you through my trip and show you how fun and rewarding a language immersion tour can be—regardless of your language level, age, or travel experience.

How Language & Luxury Works

After expressing interest, I was contacted by L&L to schedule a call with the company’s founder, Richard Phelps. Richard told me more about the company and stressed that the entire tour is customized for the client. I could choose the exact dates and duration for my tour, the city (or cities), and the time of day for my private lessons. The flexibility and personalized attention really appealed to me. The addition of cultural activities and luxury accommodations sealed the deal. Next, I talked with one of the company’s Language & Luxury Destination Specialists to discuss the details of my two-week tour in Sevilla and Madrid.

My Week in Sevilla

I arrived in Sevilla on a Saturday and was greeted at the airport by a driver provided by Language & Luxury. A short ride later, I arrived at Eme Catedral Hotel, a luxurious hotel directly across from the Catedral de Sevilla, the third-largest cathedral in the world. Not a bad spot to be, and I was blown away by everything the hotel had to offer—an attentive staff, several restaurants, a rooftop bar and pool, a workout facility, and a world-class spa. My suite was incredible, with cathedral views from two patios. All week, church bells lulled me to sleep at night and woke me up in the morning.

Daily Routines

L&L clients can start their tour on any day of the week, which is great if you want to get away “when you’re able to get away.” Since my lessons started on a Monday, I spent Sunday acclimating to the area. I did this by taking a food tour with Eating Europe, a company that uses local guides to take groups to non-touristy restaurants for an authentic taste of local cuisine.

front entryway of an eatery — *Eating Europe is a fabulous way to learn about the hotspots locals choose.*

After the tour, I took advantage of the fact that Seville is highly walkable and took in some of the city’s highlights, like the majestic Seville Cathedral and Giralda tower, the lush Real Alcázar gardens, the grand Plaza de España with its canal and bridges, artisanal shops selling ceramics and fans, and Triana’s flamenco scene along the Guadalquivir River.

Language Immersion

The great thing about this immersion was that my instructor, Carmen, came to me at my hotel on the first and all subsequent days of my program. At our first meeting, Carmen and I met in a quiet part of the hotel for an introductory conversation (in Spanish & English), and then immediately got to work. She assessed my language and goals and asked where I wanted my lessons—right there at the hotel? In a cafe? On a quiet park bench? Or on the go, while strolling through the city? Being an active learner, I opted for walking lessons. Carmen was excellent—the perfect blend of instructor/new Spanish amiga, which made me feel comfortable working on my language with her.

man looking at market stand filled with produce — *Local markets were the perfect place for conversation and interacting with locals.*

In addition, Carmen followed up on the things we discussed. After our first lesson, she emailed me a list of verbs we’d talked about and gave me a comprehensive list of restaurants and points of interest based on things she’d learned about me. This was just one of many ways the week became personalized to me. As the days passed, Carmen and I realized we shared an interest in local legends, ghost stories, and health and wellness topics.

law enforcement officer on horseback — *During one day’s lessons, we happened upon a ceremony honoring law enforcement officials in Sevilla*.

Private Cultural Tours, Excursions, & Personalized Activities in Sevilla

In addition to my daily private lessons, I had private cultural tours each day. Participants can choose three to five per week; I chose three. One day, Daniel, my guide, took me on a tour of the Cathedral of Sevilla and the Royal Alcázar. Another day, we toured markets and had tapas in one of Sevilla’s popular neighborhoods. I ended my week of tours with a visit to the Flamenco Museum and an authentic flamenco show. On the days I wasn’t on excursions, I pursued personal interests. One day, I played a round of golf at the Real Club de Golf Sevilla. Another day, I toured a radio station and talked with local journalists—an experience a local L&L partner set up for me.

woman in radio studio with microphone — *Language & Luxury set up a tour of a local radio station. Such an interesting tour for this journalist!*

The week in Sevilla flew by, and I was so glad to have another week to keep the momentum going in Madrid.

Week Two: Madrid

Per my Destination Specialist’s recommendation, I left Sevilla via high-speed AVE train to Madrid. Train travel in Europe is affordable, luxurious, and often much easier than air travel, as you don’t have to arrive hours in advance to travel. Again, I appreciated L&L’s transfer service from my hotel, and the business-class seat I reserved on the train was spacious and quiet.

Once in Madrid, I stayed at my friends’ house for the first part of my week and transferred to the hotel L&L had arranged for me mid-week. Language & Luxury participants can choose their own accommodations or have L&L set them up; I chose a mix of both. Again, I had a free day before my language lessons began on Monday, so I attended the Madrid Open Golf Tournament—because when you’re a golfer and there’s a tournament while you’re in town, why not, right? This is just one example of how one can “live like a local” and enrich the week’s experiences.

The Experience Continues in Madrid

My schedule in Madrid had a similar cadence to that in Sevilla. On Monday, I met Jennifer, my instructor, at the NH Palacio de Tepa, where I would stay later that week. We had an introductory chat, where I told her about what I’d covered in Sevilla, and talked to her about how I best learn/work. Jennifer told me she’d plan activities and lessons based on daily “walking immersions.”

woman with wine glass at dinner table — *A wine and Iberian jamón tasting was a definite highlight.*

Private Cultural Tours, Excursions, & Personalized Activities in Madrid

I paired my private lessons with cultural experiences and enjoyed working with my cultural activities guide, Alessandro. Our tours took place after my daily lessons, and included: a wine and Spanish jamón tasting, a tour of nearby restaurants not known to tourists, a walk through Madrid’s literary quarter (something I enjoyed immensely as a writer), and a visit to one of Madrid’s many art galleries, Fundación Mapfre. Working with the same local guide all week made the experience more meaningful, as I got used to Alessandro’s Spanish and approach.

In addition, one afternoon I played a round of golf in one of Madrid’s finest private courses, the RACE Golf Club. Here I learned about the growing popularity of Madrid as a golf destination, and the numerous opportunities to play in the area’s surrounding courses. And of course, I learned this in a conversation with the club’s director of golf, José Ignacio Vidosa Flores, while we spoke entirely in Spanish.

female golfer on golf course — *October is a beautiful time to play golf in Madrid. Thanks to RACE Golf Club for a great round!*

A Recap & Tips if You’d Like to Do a Language Immersion (in Spain or Around the World)

Toward the end of my two-week immersion, I had a revelation while sipping coffee with my instructor. I realized—Wow, I don’t think we’ve really spoken a lick of English since the first day of our instruction.

Now, while this would definitely vary for someone who came to the program with little or no Spanish, as someone who really wanted to become “one with the language and culture of Spain,” the program 100% delivered. I wasn’t just speaking the language; I was immersed in the culture, using the language without really thinking about it. I felt like a Spaniard!

If you’re looking for a way to immerse yourself in the language and culture of Spain (or another destination around the world)—like I did in Sevilla and Madrid—consider Language & Luxury. You’ll get one-to-one instruction, cultural tours, and luxury hotels, plus personalized attention from the start.

The bottom line? If you’re looking to learn or fine-tune a language (choose from Spanish, Portuguese, German, Italian, French, or English) based on your level, travel schedule, learning style, and cultural interests, and prefer to stay in beautiful hotels, have transfers handled, plus enjoy a curated itinerary with suggestions for high-end experiences, I’d definitely suggest checking out Language & Luxury!

In full disclosure, I was so impressed by the company that I wanted to be a part of it. I’m happy to say I’m now one of Language & Luxury’s Destination Specialists. However, please know I’d be spreading the word about this amazing opportunity to learn a language and grow as a person even if I didn’t work there!

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Dining in Madrid Is More Than Just Dinner

Flamenco dancer and guitar player on stage

Story and photos by Alison Ramsey

Madrid, the colorful capital of Spain, has a vibrant culinary scene with myriad eatery options to bring visitors closer to the city’s authentic culture, traditions, and characters. To make the most of a visit, vary mealtime experiences by trying unique gastronomy options and formats.

Progressive Dinner Offers Premium Food Experience

Elysian Tales, the passion project of charismatic Marwa Preston, brings guests on a multi-stop fully customized progressive dinner throughout the city, with short walking trips between venues.

Woman at dinner table — Marwa Preston, backed by a Spanish-tiled wall at La Carmencita, sits with iced red
vermouth, served in its traditional small glass.

Michelin-Starred Fine Dining

One example program begins at the elegant, Michelin-starred Saddle restaurant, whose red velvet armchairs, full-ceiling skylights, and modern gold accents imbue sophistication and style. Join the chefs in the kitchen, where they teach participants to artfully scrape a creamy oval-shaped “butter quenelle” from a mountain of French butter to go with homemade sourdough bread and sparkling Corpinnat wine from Catalonia.

Friendly kitchen staff walk guests through plating a colorful vegetable course, using silver tweezers to decorate swirls of flavor with purple cauliflower, figs, carrots, strawberries, and edible flowers, and garnishing with fresh horseradish and sea salt. The quality of ingredients and combinations of interesting tastes here are beyond comparison, and the feeling of making it yourself alongside professional chefs in a gourmet kitchen is unmatched.

Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Progressive dinner participants at Saddle learn the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.
Marwa Preston of Elysian Tales and the Saddle staff teach diners the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.

Homestyle Comfort Food

A leisurely walk past the stately Supreme Court of Spain and Church of Santa Bárbara leads to friendly Chuecha neighborhood bistro La Carmencita Tavern. The second oldest tavern in Madrid and a famous locale for writers to frequent, this lively venue is full of locals sipping red vermouth (white wine infused with caramelized sugar and botanicals), nibbling in-house marinated olives, and sampling savory cheeses with honey farmed from the outskirts of Madrid. Preston described their Spanish version of “Russian salad” as tuna, potatoes, green peas, and vegetables, and “everyone from Spain will tell you their mom’s recipe is the best.”

A grandma’s-home-cooking recipe of beef pate on bread, and Mediterranean anchovies comprise bar food typical in this “Soho of Madrid” area. At this homey site where three generations of Carmens lived, the elaborately decorated Spanish tiles on the walls are all original, and the dining room used to be the house’s bedroom.

Dining room and appetizer plates — Red vermouth and traditional tapas make up a cozy homestyle meal at La Carmencita
Tavern.

Romantic Date-Night Atmosphere

Moody candlelight, rough-hewn wooden tables, open-flame ovens, dramatic wall art, and a vast collection of high-level wines make Charrúa Madrid a romantic stop on the journey. Fresh rosemary is burned 30 minutes before dinner service, and the pleasant aroma stimulates senses and heightens the dining experience.

Begin with hot beef consommé rich with vitamins and minerals, creamy cauliflower puree (“90% cauliflower and 10% butter,” said Preston) with freshly shaved truffles, and seasoned tomatoes. Roasted red pepper is served alongside tender, free-roaming grass-fed Retinta beef sirloin to bring out the meat’s flavor, with the acidity of the pepper cutting through the meat’s fattiness.

Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.

Dessert is torrija, a Spanish version of French toast that involves homemade brioche soaked in milk infused with cinnamon, orange rind, and lemon peel, and nested with yogurt ice cream. Preston explained that this is a typical Easter dish in Spain, although that time of year the bread is often soaked in wine instead of milk.

Despite the rich flavors in these courses, the food sits lightly in the stomach and is not fried, like many of the ham croquetas (deep-fried fritters) and bombas (fried mashed potato balls) served in touristy locations. With a short walk in between restaurants on this dining tour, guests don’t leave feeling stuffed and uncomfortable.

Funky Cocktail Bar

Wrap up the evening at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas, a venue with a Vegas-style disco bar, DJ, private karaoke screen, and room dedicated to Julio Iglesias in the back. Pick your garnish of choice (cinnamon, ginger, pepper, sugar cubes, dried lime) and describe your favorite flavors, scents, or even your favorite vinyl record, and the host will create a drink they sense will match your taste.

The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.
Select favorite garnishes at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas and receive a custom-made beverage to match your taste.
The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.

The front restaurant area has a crocheted ceiling, handmade mosaic floors, Murano-glass–covered towers, many mirrors, and walls are hand-painted with Madrid panoramas. It is truly a unique scene and novel way to end an evening of gastronomic exploration.

This curated culinary experience by Elysian Tales allows visitors to experience the food selections and scenes at several different types of eateries even if they only spend a few days in Madrid.

Other Distinctive Dining Options in Madrid

Local Castilian and Madrid Cuisine

Dine at traditional Madrid establishment Posada de la Villa for a taste of Castilian and Madrid cuisine, including roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven (absolutely delicious, with tender meat falling off the bone), Bellota Iberian ham, Manchego cheese, homemade croquetas, tuna and tomato salad, Dehesa Valquejigoso wine, and “Posadero’s Dessert” trio of pastry, fried milk, and cheesecake. Dark wood and brick wall interiors, Iberian ham hanging from the rafters, excellent flavors, quality service, and an active scene of locals, people on business lunches, and foodies make this historic stop one to remember.

Traditional Madrid dining at Posada de la Villa includes local wines and roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven.

Wine Masterclass and Tasting

Explore Madrid’s wine culture and cuisine by taking a masterclass at Vinology. At this wine bar and restaurant, sommelier and founder, Pilar Oltra, guides guests through an exploration of Madrid’s four wine-producing regions—Arganda del Rey, Navalcarnero, San Martín de Valdeiglesias, and El Molar—made up of almost 22 acres of vineyards and 45 wineries.

Learn about grape varieties, terroir (the unique combination of climate, soil, terrain, and tradition that shape the character of a wine), and sample five wines alongside five creative tapas, including homemade foie mi-cuit (semi-cooked duck) with quince, cecina (smoked beef) with toasted almonds and extra virgin olive oil, and anchovy with Iberian jowl.

Pilar Oltra, sommelier and founder of Vinology, stands by her storefront.
Snack and sample during an informative wine masterclass at Vinology.
Sommelier Pilar Oltra explains Madrid’s wine culture and regions during a tasting and masterclass at Vinology.

Dinner and Flamenco Show

The oldest, most prestigious, and most famous flamenco tablao (wooden stage) in the world is Corral de la Morería. Paired with its Michelin-starred haute cuisine designed by head chef, David García, this cultural dinner-and-show is a memorable way to involve all the senses in one evening experience.

Savor scallop carpaccio with tomato tartar, dates, and coconut ajoblanco (cold soup); poultry egg yolk over ropa vieja (shredded beef); sea bass and gilda (skewer of olive, anchovy, and pepper); and fruit sorbet or caramelized French toast made with fresh milk and served with banana ice cream.

For six decades, flamenco icons have graced the Corral de la Morería stage to showcase their art, and the venue is frequented by celebrities and visitors from across the globe (e.g., Frank Sinatra, Dua Lipa, Gloria Estefan). Here, the singers, dancers, and guitar players use feet, eyes, tongues, wrists, fingers, and flowing costumes to tell a dramatic story in sound and movement, with no translation needed, and present a new show every 7-10 days.

Flamenco dancer waving cape — A dramatic and sound-rich story is expressed on the Corral de la Moreria *tablao*.

“It’s the only dance in the world where the music follows the dancers,” said Armando del Rey, an owner of the family-run business his father, Manuel, began in 1956. Manuel hired Armando’s mother, Blanca, a very well-known choreographer and dancer in Spain, and Manuel and Blanca soon fell in love. Now, Manuel and his brother, Juanma, work with artistic director Blanca in the restaurant sector as well. Corral de la Morería is the only restaurant in the world with a Michelin star that has a dinner and tablao, and it is listed in The New York Times bestseller “1,000 Places to See Before You Die.”

Jazz Entertainment Club

For dinner and drinks in a flashy club atmosphere, make a reservation at the bustling two-story Pabblo. Here guests are treated to Mediterranean cooking from a wood-fired oven and charcoal grill, classic and innovative cocktails, Picasso-inspired décor, and live band music with lounge singers, dancers, and aerial silk artists.

Lounge singer performs with band — A live band, sultry singers, and glittering dancers present a high-energy show at
Pabblo’s dinner seating.

Between hummus, tuna tartar, fish and lamb courses, and a fun make-your-own ice cream sundae dessert platter, you’ll hear smooth saxophone jams, watch sequined showgirls shimmy and strut, and see a graceful gymnast draped around aerial ribbons and descending through the open ceiling from the upper level. Entertainment while eating is an exceptional way to end an evening out on the town.

Four Seasons’ Restaurants and Rooftop

The first Four Seasons hotel in Spain is found within an enormous and beautiful property block composed of seven historic buildings with a national-heritage–protected external façade. Within this complex, shop at Canalejas Gallery, the new luxury shopping arcade in central Madrid housing 40 boutiques and prestigious brands such as Dior, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Armani, Tom Ford, and Tumi.

After browsing or buying, easily head to Four Seasons’ El Patio lobby bar (featuring the original marble columns and concierge desk from when the room used to be the operations area of the Spanish Credit Bank), the Isa Asian cuisine restaurant and cocktail bar, or Dani Brasserie for signature Mediterranean and Andalusian dishes and drinks on the top level.

Four Seasons’ rooftop patio looks into the Dani Brasserie dining room.
The rooftop patio of Dani Brasserie at the Four Seasons affords splendid views of Madrid’s Gran Via street.

At Dani Brasserie, don’t miss chef Dani García’s famous and savory “Red Tuna Descargamento,” served in a delicate rose shape, with yellow bell peppers, lime, and olive oil. From the rooftop patio outside the dining room, admire Madrid’s city lights, cool night air, and stunning panoramic views.

WHEN YOU GO…

Stay at the centrally located Hotel Villa Real for easy access to the Prado Museum, Retiro Park, Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum, Royal Palace of Madrid, and Gran Via high-end shopping street.

The vast breakfast buffet and attentive waitstaff will ensure you start your mornings fueled with fresh coffee and juice, plenty of meats and cheeses, fresh and dried fruits, pastries, cereals, and eggs-to-order. On your way to breakfast, explore the art and archeology collection in the hotel’s museum, which holds restored Roman mosaics and sculptures, and a private collection of painted Apulian vases.

Breakfast at Hotel Villa Real is varied, colorful, and fresh.

The East 47 bar and restaurant off the front lobby serves drinks, tapas, crisp salads, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes—with terrace seating out front in Plaza de las Cortes during warmer summer months.

For more information about Madrid, go to Visit Madrid.

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Staying in the Thick of Things in Cordoba, Spain

The NH Collection Amistad Cordoba, a splendid hotel within easy walking distance of historical landmarks, ensures delightful dining and pleasant dreams

By Randy Mink

Ensconced in the picturesque Jewish Quarter, the four-star NH Collection Amistad Cordoba made the perfect base camp for my explorations of Cordoba’s sprawling old town, the highlight of my recent travels in the south of Spain.

As soon as I passed through the lobby and walked out the door, there I was—in the quiet Plaza Maimonides, ready to prowl the cobbled lanes threading the city’s historic center, a maze of whitewashed buildings dating as far back as the Middle Ages. The Bullfighting Museum, housed in two old palaces, holds court across the way. A short stroll leads to the Mezquita, or Mosque-Cathedral, the greatest legacy of the city’s Muslim past.

Occupying a pair of 17th and 18th century mansions, the 108-room NH Collection Amistad Cordoba has two outdoor courtyards, one of them with an Arab star-shaped swimming pool. Islamic ornamental and architectural touches grace other public areas as well. (At the time of writing, the larger courtyard was closed for renovation.)

The property offers a variety of guest room categories, including rooms with private patio. My French balcony looked out on remains of a wall that separated the Jewish Quarter from the rest of the city. Other rooms overlook the courtyards or Plaza Maimonides.

My third-floor nest had all the amenities you’d expect from an upscale hotel—refrigerated mini-bar, coffee machine, magnifying make-up mirror, robe and slippers, and turndown service with chocolate. I especially liked the walk-in rainfall shower.

Savoring Regional Specialties in the Hotel Restaurant
At one lunch in the restaurant, our group feasted on the five-course Cordoba tasting menu, which featured typical local specialties. We all loved the salmorejo, a cold tomato soup thickened with bread and topped with bits of hard-boiled egg and ham. After a salad and creamy oxtail croquettes, the main course was flamenquín, a fried roll of sliced pork and ham with cheese and red peppers. We finished with pastel cordobés, a sweet, squash-filled pastry. The price was 37 euros per person, two drinks included.

The restaurant's menu features typical local specialties, including local meats and cheeses, cold tomato soup, pastries, and fruits.

Photos by Randy Mink. The restaurant’s menu features typical local specialties, including salmorejo, a cold tomato soup thickened with bread and topped with bits of hard-boiled egg and ham.

The NH Collection’s cultural/gastronomic package in Cordoba is part of the brand’s Spain Designed for Feeling program of special experiences. (www.spaindesignedforfeeling.com/categoria/lifestyle). The plan includes both the tasting menu and a guided four-hour tour visiting the Mezquita, Jewish Quarter and Viana Palace.

The hotel’s lavish breakfast buffet offered salmorejo (a morning treat for one group member who couldn’t get enough of it) along with a bounty of meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, juices and baked goods. As a sweet tooth, I went for the chocolate tart wedges and sugar-dusted squares of
pastel cordobés.

A concierge in the lobby assists travelers with making the most of their Cordoba stay, and the front desk gives out a detailed list of museums and other attractions with opening hours and admission prices.

NH Collection Hotels & Resorts is the high-end brand of Minor Hotels, which has lodgings across six continents. I had not been aware of the chain, but after stays in Cordoba and at Madrid’s NH Collection Palacio de Tepa days before, I am now a big fan.

Photos of courtyard, guest room (Superior category), and lobby, courtesy of NH Collection Hotels & Resorts.

For more information on NH Collection Hotels & Resorts, log on to www.nhcollection.com.

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Discover Monte Isola: Fishing Heritage and Local Cuisine

By Alison Ramsey

Northern Italy island cuisine and fishing boats follow tradition

Literally translated to “Mount Island,” the beautiful village of Monte Isola, Italy, rises from the middle of Lake Iseo in the Brescia province in Lombardy. Monte Isola comprises three islands, the principal being Montisola—the largest inhabited lake island in Europe—reachable only by boat (ferries run approximately every 20 minutes during the day). Beneath the glittering cobalt water swims the sea life that, for years, inhabitants relied on for sustenance and livelihood. Montisola’s main industry is now tourism, but in the past, it was fishing.

Montisola island in Lake Iseo has many docks and fishing boats

Montisola island in Lake Iseo is lined with docks and fishing boats.

Fishing boats and islands dot Lake Iseo in the Brescia region of Italy.

Unique Wooden Fishing Boats

Shipbuilding yards focused heavily on making a typical style of fishing boat called the Naèt—long and narrow wooden boats, similar in style to the famous Venetian gondolas. Islanders depended on these light and agile boats for fast transportation to the mainland as well as for successful fishing. Naèts are difficult to construct and require great skill to make, with builders using an ax, hammer, chisel, and plane to cut and shape chestnut wood for the frame and durable larch wood for the remainder of the body.

The original flat 4.5-foot-wide boats were almost 23 feet long, with sails attached to two intercrossed chestnut wood poles—about 11.5 feet and 13 feet each. Around 1958, builders began removing the sails and adding engines to these boats, which shortened the boat length by about two feet. At the very center depth of the hull, the width remains only 80 cm. Every village uses its own color for their Naèts, so a quick glance at the docks identifies where each boat originated.

The only remaining shipbuilding yard on the island is Cantiere Nautico Ercole Archetti, and this craftsmanship-focused family company has trained five generations of carpenters to reach shipbuilding expertise. Building unique wooden boats since 1600, the team now uses cutting-edge technology but still makes their products entirely by hand, using carefully selected marine wood and employing highly qualified Master Shipwrights. Maintenance, storage, and rental are other offerings from Ercole Archetti Shipyards.

Paolo Archetti, owner of local net manufacturing company Bresciareti, said that nuns used to own property on the island and wanted to be paid for the land they lent out. Renters with limited cash began to pay the nuns in fish instead of funds—children loaded the special two-ended wooden needle with thread and women handwove the nets men used for fishing. Because fishing was most productive during the warm months of April, May, and June, islanders learned how to preserve their catches, drying the fish and conserving them in oil for later payment.

Top left: The color of a Naèt indicates from which village the boat originated.
Top right: The Bresciareti storefront sells handwoven net accessories and the company fulfills large orders of machine-created nets for sports, construction, and aviary control.
Bottom (photo courtesy of Michele Turla): Peschiera Maraglio port has always been a hotspot for boat parking.

Island Cuisine Includes Preserved Sardines

The pretty, pink-embellished Church of St. John the Baptist in Carzano, a small lakeside settlement on Montisola, is also known to locals as “St. John of the Sardines.” Independent tour guide Elena Confortini explained that on June 24 residents historically celebrated St. John’s feast day. On this day, which fell during the final seasonal period when sardines came closest to the shore and there was an abundance of fish, the church used to cook sardines in its front square and serve them freely. Although locally referred to as “sardines,” these fish are actually a species of freshwater twaite shad (Alosa fallax locustris) but are called sardèna in Italian because their appearance is similar to true sardines.

Left (photo courtesy of Michele Turla): Fishing was the primary industry in historical Monte Isola.
Right: Dried, salted, and preserved sardines on polenta are a traditional treat served by Sensole Locanda Contemporanea restaurant.

For centuries now, island cuisine has included dried, salted, and preserved fish—characteristically sardines, perch, and the common European whitefish (known in Italian as coregone). These fish, cured with salt and dried in the sun for 24 hours, are then washed and strung up in parallel lines dangling from hooks or tacked upon arches of ash branches secured with thread on both ends. After sunning outdoors in the heat for 5-10 days, the fish are removed into iron containers and pressed in olive oil. Several months in this state turns sardines a golden color, and they can then be seasoned simply with garlic, parsley, and oil, and grilled quickly over a hot fire. The surname “Archetti” is one of the more common names on Montisola. Translating to “little bows,” this name is derived from the bowed wooden frames erected all over the island for fish-drying.

Garden art pieces imitating fish-drying frames decorate the lakeside

Fish-drying frames are still used to dry sardines in the sun

Monte Isola fish-preservation techniques from the past are still used today across the island, and garden art pieces imitating fish-drying frames decorate the lakeside. (Black-and-white photo courtesy of Michele Turla)

Only two eateries on the island currently serve sardines, one of which is Sensole Locanda Contemporanea. This charming, yellow-walled lakeside restaurant sits directly down the rocky hillside below Martinengo Fortress, a privately owned castle with a recognizable circular lookout tower. Young restaurant owner, Giovanni Lo Bresti, expertly serves traditional dishes using locally grown products, with each course gorgeously plated. Try the intensely flavorful dried sardines (use fingers, not utensils, to eat it the authentic way!) alongside tasty bars of fried polenta. Enjoy Monte Isola smoked salami, grilled dry coregone fish, fried pike balls, homemade bread, butter sprinkled with perch bottarga (salted, cured fish roe), and spiced salami ragout with bread gnocchi.

Salted and dried sardines are served over fried polenta bars

The upper outdoor deck of Sensole Locanda Contemporanea restaurant overlooks beautiful Lake Iseo, while the lower outdoor patio invites guests from the pedestrian walk.

Montisola Olive Oil and Franciacorta Wine

At Sensole restaurant, diners can also try the deliciously light local extra virgin olive oil labeled “l’isola dell’olio” (translation: “island of the oil”). One olive grove of just nine trees produced 50 bottles of this particular oil in 2025, the last bottle of which was down to the last drops in late September.

The whole of Monte Isola contains approximately 15,000 olive trees of several varieties, with groves planted on steep terraces to match the upward sloping terrain. Although difficult to harvest mountainside, the olives produced are of high quality and thrive in the unique lake island microclimate. Montisola’s restaurants prepare homegrown products with local oil and pair dishes with DOC “controlled designation of origin” wines from the region, such as Caruna 100% Chardonnay Brut from the Franciacorta region’s vineyards (served only in the Franciacorta-specific tulip-shaped glasses that stimulate bubble longevity).

Local olive oil is made from olive trees on Montisola

Tasty local olive oil and flavorful, high-quality wines from the Franciacorta wine-growing region round out a relaxing and delicious meal provided by owner, Giovanni Lo Bresti, at Sensole Locanda Contemporanea.

All along the lakeside, pedestrians and bikers move down the winding path that separates glimmering water from flowering bushes and trees heavy with ripe fruit. Beside this promenade, sunbathers bask in golden rays and swimmers leap into the cool water to paddle amongst ducks and swans.

Here you can feel like you’ve stepped back into bygone times, commune with untouched nature, and enjoy an unhurried and uncrowded getaway. Wander the path to see garden art structures made of metal and wooden fish—imitating the ancient practice of drying the catch-of-the-day on arched racks—and peruse shops and cafes that use sardine and net décor to echo the fishing culture that sustained Monte Isola for so long.

HOW TO GET THERE… ✈️
Fly NEOS Air from JFK airport in New York to Milan, Italy, and then travel by train or car to Sulzano, on the eastern shore of Lake Iseo. Then, take the 5-minute ferry ride from mainland Sulzano to Peschiera Maraglio on Monte Isola. Visit neosair.com/it for flights and schedules.
Tip: If you follow NEOS Air on social media, you can often score flight discounts and coupons to use toward airfare.

WHERE TO STAY… 🛏️
For a day trip to Monte Isola, stay at the romantic and rich-with-history Cappuccini Resort (Via Cappuccini, 54, 25033 Cologne BS, Italy), a 30-minute drive from the Sulzano ferry dock. This charming monastery-turned-resort is beautiful, clean, peaceful, and tastefully furnished with a blend of vintage relics and modern décor. A separate building with yoga, sauna, steam cave, and bubbling grotto spa with fountains and sun-heated waters provides numerous relaxation opportunities. Wander the sprawling hillside grounds to visit the outdoor pool and explore blooming rose gardens and fruit orchards. For more information, please visit cappuccini.it/en.

BEFORE YOU GO… 💻
Navigate to italia.it and visitbrescia.it/en/ to discover events and experiences offered within the fascinating Brescia province. Bicycle tours, food and wine festivals, thermal springs, art museums, castles, Roman archeological ruins—round out your trip with a little of each.

Monte Isola, Italy

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Discover Nürnberg’s Many Medieval Layers

Women's Gate Tower entrance to Nuremberg

Story and Photos by Alison Ramsey

Nürnberg, Germany, is full of rich medieval history, with plenty of myths and mystery. The largest city in the northern region of Bavaria, often referred to as the unofficial capital of Franconia, Nürnberg displays a unique Franconian identity in terms of its culture, architecture, cuisine, and historical political structures. Explore all angles and layers of the city to learn more about what makes Nürnberg unique.

Nürnberg is easily entered through the Frauentorturm, directly across from the city’s main train station.

Enter the city through the base of the Frauentorturm (Women’s Gate Tower), and you’ll immediately find the first attraction in the initial interior lining. Craftsmen’s Courtyard is a collection of cottage industries behind the thick city wall, where small half-timbered workshops are labeled with antique signs and ornate metal fittings. Craftworkers here create pottery, glassware, candles, jewelry, leatherwork, and wooden wares. These traditional and unique gifts handmade by local artisans include leather bracelets, wallets, belts; carved wooden animals, toys, keychains, hand-carved pens, cutting boards, and kitchen utensils. Set amongst colorful flowering plants and bright-potted greenery, cafes and restaurants in this idyllic city segment serve tasty snacks, cakes, and invigorating coffee drinks.

Handcrafted gifts and homemade treats await in the Craftsmen’s Courtyard.

The Old Town’s Hauptmarkt (main market square) holds the famous Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), an intricate 14^th century 62-foot-high Gothic structure encircled by a metal railing. Forty stone figures on four of the piece’s many tiers represent the world’s varied beliefs and philosophical ideas about the Holy Roman Empire during the medieval period—in the form of church and secular leaders, evangelists, prophets, philosophers, and biblical characters. Set within the intricate railing design is a small golden ring, and legend dictates that turning this shiny brass ring three times fulfills wishes and brings good luck.

Turn the Beautiful Fountain’s brass ring three times to make your wish come true!

Right here in the main market square is where the wintertime Christkindlesmarkt Christmas market is held, but during springtime, you can find a festive Easter market in its place. Shop for leather goods, wooden crafts, embroidered linens, woven socks, wine, spring home décor, pottery, and plush toys. Try the made-on-site fried dough with powdered sugar Küchle (little cake), sugared roasted nuts, and gingerbread cookies. Of course, if you’re missing the Christkindlesmarkt, stop into the Käthe Wohlfahrt specialty shop in town to stock up on Erzgebirge handmade Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, ornaments, and toys.

The main square houses winter and spring markets filled with handcrafted wares and tasty snacks.

Nürnberg provides many restaurant options for a delicious, full sit-down meal. Zum Gulden Stern is the city’s oldest existing historical bratwurst kitchen—and the oldest in the world—dating back to 1419. Here, the famous, original Nürnberg sausages (branded as the Original Nürnberger Röstla®) are grilled over a beechwood fire in a building built around 1380. The sausages are prepared with traditional spices like mace (a sister spice to nutmeg), marjoram, salt, and pepper, by the family-run Pfettner butcher shop in Nürnberg. The characteristic smoke and aroma of beechwood infuse this delicacy with unique flavor. The sausages served at Zum Gulden Stern are never boiled or pre-fried; instead, they are placed on the grill white and raw, cooked for about 7 minutes, and then removed once the tops and bottoms are evenly browned and crispy. (Consider also visiting the Nürnberg Bratwurst Museum, which presents the myths and legends surrounding these small 7-9cm sausages the town is known for.)

Zum Gulden Stern is a historic restaurant that serves the city’s famous mini sausages.

Barrel-fermented sauerkraut grown by the Wehr family in the Aischgrund region is cooked and seasoned at Zum Gulden Stern with fresh pork lard. The vegetables, horseradish, and wines served at the restaurant are all sourced from family-owned businesses in the region, and the dishes are substantial and savory. This tavern survived all the wars, likely hosted famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer, and still serves up delicious daily-prepared meat-and-vegetable soups and famous sausages. In addition to the interesting antique wall art, the colorful wooden ceiling is patched with old brightly painted cupboard panels, to cover holes made where weighty drunken guests from older days had fallen through from the upper level.

Step into history while dining at Zum Gulden Stern, where famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer is said to have frequented.

Adina Apartment Hotel, about a 12-minute walk from the main train station, in the heart of the city, is a comfortable, clean, and convenient place to overnight in Nürnberg. The spacious studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments have fully equipped kitchens, cozy linens, and vegan personal care products, and the hotel is upscale but relaxed and inviting. Friendly, efficient, and attentive staff, and fast and accommodating room service make this an exceptional lodging choice. Breakfast in the downstairs dining area is varied and colorful, with many tasty options to help kick-start your day—fresh juices, lattes, meat and cheese platters, vegetables, cereals, dried and fresh fruits, fish filet cakes, pancakes and rolls, sweet breads, jams, eggs, and hot breakfast meat dishes (including the city’s famous sausages). After a day exploring the town, the lap pool and sauna area provide just enough space for a refreshing evening swim and relaxation in the dry heat.

Adina Apartment Hotel is a cozy place to lodge, with activities for guests of all ages.

Be sure to buy a Nürnberg Card online or at one of several Tourist Information stands, to receive a variety of free admissions and discounts. The Nürnberg Card allows you 48 hours of free access to almost all the city museums and attractions as well as free public transportation.

A three-minute walk down the street from the Adina Apartment Hotel takes you to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum), the largest cultural history museum in the German-speaking countries. Here, you can explore five exhibition areas on three levels of the museum—artifacts from the Old Stone Age to the Middle Ages, collections from Renaissance to Enlightenment, and 20^th Century masterpieces—there are multitudes of treasures to examine. The armor and hunting exhibition is especially expansive, with case after case of intricate weaponry. You’ll also find an impressive array of musical instruments, jewelry, sleighs, sculptures, and paintings.

The German National Museum exhibits magnificent artifacts from all eras.

A separate building houses the toys portion of the museum—a showcase of detailed dollhouses, dolls, tin cars and armies, optical toys, and miniature railroads. Many of the elaborate 17^th century dollhouses exhibited here were thought to be commissioned by Nürnberg’s wealthy merchants and patricians. For young people, the houses functioned as a visual representation of ideal households and a clear display of tasks and activities to be performed in each of the rooms. For example, dollhouse sitting rooms were often decorated with tea service, chess boards, and decks of cards, while kitchen layouts included hearth-cleaning tools, cake molds, soup ladles, and copper pots. Similarly, 18^th– to 20^th-century toys conveyed educational objectives relating to children’s future familial and career lives. Playing with dolls helped girls prepare for their roles as patient, gentle mothers. Boys’ toys were often linked to their potential future working lives—tin soldiers encouraged strategic thought and tactical warfare, wooden building blocks taught spatial reasoning and construction design, and other technical toys fostered special interests and skills.

Antique toys at the German National Museum give a glimpse into historic playtime and its echoes of everyday life.

Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) Nürnberg is another toy museum that displays games and playthings of all sorts—dolls, metal soldiers, puppets, teddy bears, model railroads, tin vehicles, and Playmobil figures, as well as vintage and newer iconic characters like Paddington Bear, ALF, and Garfield. Visit this museum for a bit of history and some interactive play time with toys and family games in the upstairs playroom.

Spielzeugmuseum Nürnberg displays old and new toys alike, with areas for interactive play and a building and board game zone.

Stop by Die Wirtschaft restaurant for Brotzeit (bread time), Veschber (midday snack), or Gudzerla (Franconian tapas) to nosh on a savory selection of sourdough or oven-crusted bread, marinated cheeses and sausages, pickled vegetables, and herbs. The warm and crispy Apfelküchle (specifically, fried apple rings in beer batter with homemade ice cream and plum compote) will revive you for the rest of your city exploration. For another delicious snack or dessert option, Restaurant Trödelstuben serves up hot raspberries and raspberry sauce over vanilla ice cream. If you’d like a break from traditional German food, try the KOKONO Pan-Asian Cuisine & Sushi Bar on Luitpoldstraße. Expect fresh food, seasonal flowers on all tables, and a fun presentation of dry ice mist at your table while you eat your edamame and sushi rolls.

Nürnberg culinary variety abounds, with traditional German cuisine and desserts as well as delicious Asian delicacies.

Not all the city’s most interesting sights can be found at ground level. Claudia Radtke, certified Nürnberg city guide, provides guided tours of Nürnberg’s fascinating underground worlds. Those interested in history, fortification, and ancient legal systems (and those aged 10 years and older) will enjoy the intriguing and informative tours entitled “Tunnels and Secret Passages in the City Wall” and “Medieval Dungeons.” The 14^th century dungeons in vaulted rock-cut cellars beneath the city hall contain prison cells, torture chambers, the jailer’s house, a prison kitchen, and a blacksmith’s workshop. Walk through underground corridors with damp limestone walls (use the railings and watch your step), learn about those who walked there before you, and explore the city’s ancient approaches to maintaining peace, organization, and stability.

Explore beneath the city, with exciting tours of dungeons and underground passageways.

Underneath the Imperial Castle, a network of defensive passageways wind about, with casemates and embrasures from which weapons could be fired into all angles of the moat. Interestingly, the humid tunnels were not conducive to weapon storage, so weapons were stored aboveground and brought down via a ramp during combat periods. The quarry-stone underground walls are eroded and colorful, shaped and stained from sour rain dripping through.

Don’t forget to climb up and appreciate sights from the very top of the Imperial Castle—views down into the moat and stone walkways meandering through flowering trees beneath cloud-speckled blue skies. Wealthy, strategically built, well-invested in defense, and never captured (or attacked, for that matter), Nürnberg was one of the Holy Roman Empire’s best-protected cities in Europe. The city’s history of wealth and peace is attributed to its involvement in trade, due to solving issues diplomatically and with payment rather than through warfare.

The uphill climb to the Imperial Castle rewards you with beautiful views.

After peering down from the Imperial Castle, stop at the nearby Hausbrauerei Altstadthof, known for its brewed Rotbier (red beer) and oven-fresh Schäufele (roasted pork shoulder in red beer sauce with dumplings and sauerkraut). The snug tavern area with a “hidden gem” feel is a great hangout spot for groups and couples to have a homestyle Franconian meal and a few freshly tapped craft beers. Fill up on savory Nürnberger sausages, potato soup with crusty bread, Obazda specialty Bavarian cheese, spätzle (dumpling-like irregular-shaped egg noodles), red cabbage, goulash, and a wheat- and black-beer sponge cake “Beeramisu” dessert or Apfelküchle (this menu’s variation is drizzled with custard sauce and served with vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, and almond slices).

Hausbrauerei Altstadthof serves hearty meals and tasty beer in an inviting social environment.

Tour the Old Town and learn about the city’s history while riding the Mini Train, which departs from the Beautiful Fountain at the Main Market Square and takes you on an almost hour-long loop in and around thHausbrauerei Altstadthofe city while multi-language audio headsets announce historical landmarks and relay town stories. One legend tells of German robber Eppelein von Gailingen, who allegedly escaped execution by leaping off the castle and over the moat and city wall on his horse, leaving behind hoofprints on the roof. You’ll see the half-timbered historical building built in 1446 that once housed lepers for three days during Holy Week (to provide them medical attention, clothing, and food), then became a wine storage depot, and now functions as student housing. You’ll also spot the Hangman’s Bridge, a wooden footbridge over the Pegnitz River used solely by the Nürnberg hangman between the 16^th and 19^th century to travel between his secluded home on a small island in the Pegnitz into the city, as a Middle Ages rule forbade him from contact with “honorable citizens.”

The Mini Train ride provides a comprehensive city tour while revealing town lore.

Don’t forget to visit Nürnberg’s surrounding area outside the city walls. Nürnberg Zoo is about a 25-minute ride out of the city center via public transportation. Backed by sandstone cliffs, the exhibits of pacing lions, squeaking lemurs, playful polar bears, and around 300 different animal species (about 40 considered endangered) provide guests with plenty of animal entertainment. One of the largest zoos in Europe, the Nürnberg Zoo is built on approximately 160 acres that include woodlands of ancient trees, peaceful ponds, rocky formations, and sloping walkways. Its special “climate high forest trail” is built at the treetops and allows visitors to stroll and view the zoo from above. The zoo is designed in a natural, park-like arrangement that feels very relaxed and rural. Not only open-air–enclosured animals make this place their home, but water birds and forest animals are found in the wild in this “forest preserve”-like walking zoo. There are numerous play areas for children, including a fantastic large playground with zip lines, ropes courses, giant slides, and inset trampolines—appropriate even for older kids or spirited adults.

Restaurant Waldschänke within the zoo grounds is reached via a slightly uphill walk along beautiful pathways. Indoors or out in the beer garden you can order hearty meat entrees, kid-friendly food, salads, fish dishes, Mediterranean meals, revitalizing drinks, and an extensive selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Complete with audience-interactive Culinary Theater performances, colorful murals, amusing children’s books to borrow and peruse during your meal, and an opportunity to purchase plush animals, Restaurant Waldschänke is a welcoming eatery for families.

Restaurant Waldschänke in the Nürnberg Zoo is a convenient place to power up between wildlife exhibits.

By exploring inside and outside of Nürnberg’s city walls, high above the castle moat, and even below the streets, you can go beyond surface level to uncover fascinating history and experience this medieval town’s inimitable Franconian charm.