Luxury – European Traveler

Learning Language in the Lap of Luxury

If “learn another language” is on your bucket list, but you’re not into classrooms, group travel, or homestays… keep reading.

By Abbey Algiers

This fall I took my 19th trip to Spain. 19 trips, yes. That number is due to a love affair with Spain that began at age nine, on a family trip to Madrid. Next came Spanish summer school (at the ripe age of 10), then high school and college trips to Spain, followed by years of traveling there as a Spanish teacher. Now, as a travel writer and Spain specialist, Spain remains at the top of my list.

Yet, even with all of my years of travel and Spanish practice, I still look for opportunities to improve my Spanish. This past fall, I experienced a language and immersion tour that ranks as one of my most fulfilling cultural, learning, and personal growth experiences in Spain—and might be of interest if you’ve ever said, “I really want to learn another language and live like a local.”

woman with sunglasses posing on a shopping street — *Fresh out of a hair salon in Madrid, living like a local.*

Language Immersion in Sevilla and Madrid

I set out in October 2025 to spend two weeks in Spain—starting with a week in Sevilla, followed by one in Madrid. My goal was simple—to refresh my Spanish and enrich my knowledge of Spanish culture. And, if I’m being honest, I also wanted to stay in a beautiful hotel, unplug, and recharge.

Maybe at this point you’re wondering, “Why would a former Spanish teacher need to do an immersion?” Great question. While I am fairly fluent, I have two golden rules when it comes to language learning. First, to maintain fluency or get more fluent in a language, you’ve got to use it or you’ll lose it. Second, the best way to learn a language or improve fluency is to immerse yourself in the culture.

Working within my schedule, I started searching for a Spanish immersion program that met my non-negotiables: no classrooms or groups (I’d had my fill as a teacher), flexible scheduling to fit my freelance life, and a stylish hotel in a lively area. I wasn’t interested in a homestay or just any hotel. I wanted this time to be restorative as well. With that criteria—no classrooms, no groups, and luxurious accommodations—I discovered a program called Language & Luxury, or L&L. As I read the company website, it was as if they were talking directly to me—no classrooms and no groups, just private one-to-one instruction. Best of all, the experience is coupled with personalized, private cultural tours and daily cultural activities, with the option to include luxury accommodations and additional curated experiences.

Language & Luxury met my exact criteria. I could do a week in Sevilla and a week in Madrid, and even add on weeks in other Spanish cities. I got to decide when and where instruction took place, with the lessons catered to my language level and goals. I was so impressed with what L&L offered that I decided to try it. I’m here to take you through my trip and show you how fun and rewarding a language immersion tour can be—regardless of your language level, age, or travel experience.

How Language & Luxury Works

After expressing interest, I was contacted by L&L to schedule a call with the company’s founder, Richard Phelps. Richard told me more about the company and stressed that the entire tour is customized for the client. I could choose the exact dates and duration for my tour, the city (or cities), and the time of day for my private lessons. The flexibility and personalized attention really appealed to me. The addition of cultural activities and luxury accommodations sealed the deal. Next, I talked with one of the company’s Language & Luxury Destination Specialists to discuss the details of my two-week tour in Sevilla and Madrid.

My Week in Sevilla

I arrived in Sevilla on a Saturday and was greeted at the airport by a driver provided by Language & Luxury. A short ride later, I arrived at Eme Catedral Hotel, a luxurious hotel directly across from the Catedral de Sevilla, the third-largest cathedral in the world. Not a bad spot to be, and I was blown away by everything the hotel had to offer—an attentive staff, several restaurants, a rooftop bar and pool, a workout facility, and a world-class spa. My suite was incredible, with cathedral views from two patios. All week, church bells lulled me to sleep at night and woke me up in the morning.

Daily Routines

L&L clients can start their tour on any day of the week, which is great if you want to get away “when you’re able to get away.” Since my lessons started on a Monday, I spent Sunday acclimating to the area. I did this by taking a food tour with Eating Europe, a company that uses local guides to take groups to non-touristy restaurants for an authentic taste of local cuisine.

front entryway of an eatery — *Eating Europe is a fabulous way to learn about the hotspots locals choose.*

After the tour, I took advantage of the fact that Seville is highly walkable and took in some of the city’s highlights, like the majestic Seville Cathedral and Giralda tower, the lush Real Alcázar gardens, the grand Plaza de España with its canal and bridges, artisanal shops selling ceramics and fans, and Triana’s flamenco scene along the Guadalquivir River.

Language Immersion

The great thing about this immersion was that my instructor, Carmen, came to me at my hotel on the first and all subsequent days of my program. At our first meeting, Carmen and I met in a quiet part of the hotel for an introductory conversation (in Spanish & English), and then immediately got to work. She assessed my language and goals and asked where I wanted my lessons—right there at the hotel? In a cafe? On a quiet park bench? Or on the go, while strolling through the city? Being an active learner, I opted for walking lessons. Carmen was excellent—the perfect blend of instructor/new Spanish amiga, which made me feel comfortable working on my language with her.

man looking at market stand filled with produce — *Local markets were the perfect place for conversation and interacting with locals.*

In addition, Carmen followed up on the things we discussed. After our first lesson, she emailed me a list of verbs we’d talked about and gave me a comprehensive list of restaurants and points of interest based on things she’d learned about me. This was just one of many ways the week became personalized to me. As the days passed, Carmen and I realized we shared an interest in local legends, ghost stories, and health and wellness topics.

law enforcement officer on horseback — *During one day’s lessons, we happened upon a ceremony honoring law enforcement officials in Sevilla*.

Private Cultural Tours, Excursions, & Personalized Activities in Sevilla

In addition to my daily private lessons, I had private cultural tours each day. Participants can choose three to five per week; I chose three. One day, Daniel, my guide, took me on a tour of the Cathedral of Sevilla and the Royal Alcázar. Another day, we toured markets and had tapas in one of Sevilla’s popular neighborhoods. I ended my week of tours with a visit to the Flamenco Museum and an authentic flamenco show. On the days I wasn’t on excursions, I pursued personal interests. One day, I played a round of golf at the Real Club de Golf Sevilla. Another day, I toured a radio station and talked with local journalists—an experience a local L&L partner set up for me.

woman in radio studio with microphone — *Language & Luxury set up a tour of a local radio station. Such an interesting tour for this journalist!*

The week in Sevilla flew by, and I was so glad to have another week to keep the momentum going in Madrid.

Week Two: Madrid

Per my Destination Specialist’s recommendation, I left Sevilla via high-speed AVE train to Madrid. Train travel in Europe is affordable, luxurious, and often much easier than air travel, as you don’t have to arrive hours in advance to travel. Again, I appreciated L&L’s transfer service from my hotel, and the business-class seat I reserved on the train was spacious and quiet.

Once in Madrid, I stayed at my friends’ house for the first part of my week and transferred to the hotel L&L had arranged for me mid-week. Language & Luxury participants can choose their own accommodations or have L&L set them up; I chose a mix of both. Again, I had a free day before my language lessons began on Monday, so I attended the Madrid Open Golf Tournament—because when you’re a golfer and there’s a tournament while you’re in town, why not, right? This is just one example of how one can “live like a local” and enrich the week’s experiences.

The Experience Continues in Madrid

My schedule in Madrid had a similar cadence to that in Sevilla. On Monday, I met Jennifer, my instructor, at the NH Palacio de Tepa, where I would stay later that week. We had an introductory chat, where I told her about what I’d covered in Sevilla, and talked to her about how I best learn/work. Jennifer told me she’d plan activities and lessons based on daily “walking immersions.”

woman with wine glass at dinner table — *A wine and Iberian jamón tasting was a definite highlight.*

Private Cultural Tours, Excursions, & Personalized Activities in Madrid

I paired my private lessons with cultural experiences and enjoyed working with my cultural activities guide, Alessandro. Our tours took place after my daily lessons, and included: a wine and Spanish jamón tasting, a tour of nearby restaurants not known to tourists, a walk through Madrid’s literary quarter (something I enjoyed immensely as a writer), and a visit to one of Madrid’s many art galleries, Fundación Mapfre. Working with the same local guide all week made the experience more meaningful, as I got used to Alessandro’s Spanish and approach.

In addition, one afternoon I played a round of golf in one of Madrid’s finest private courses, the RACE Golf Club. Here I learned about the growing popularity of Madrid as a golf destination, and the numerous opportunities to play in the area’s surrounding courses. And of course, I learned this in a conversation with the club’s director of golf, José Ignacio Vidosa Flores, while we spoke entirely in Spanish.

female golfer on golf course — *October is a beautiful time to play golf in Madrid. Thanks to RACE Golf Club for a great round!*

A Recap & Tips if You’d Like to Do a Language Immersion (in Spain or Around the World)

Toward the end of my two-week immersion, I had a revelation while sipping coffee with my instructor. I realized—Wow, I don’t think we’ve really spoken a lick of English since the first day of our instruction.

Now, while this would definitely vary for someone who came to the program with little or no Spanish, as someone who really wanted to become “one with the language and culture of Spain,” the program 100% delivered. I wasn’t just speaking the language; I was immersed in the culture, using the language without really thinking about it. I felt like a Spaniard!

If you’re looking for a way to immerse yourself in the language and culture of Spain (or another destination around the world)—like I did in Sevilla and Madrid—consider Language & Luxury. You’ll get one-to-one instruction, cultural tours, and luxury hotels, plus personalized attention from the start.

The bottom line? If you’re looking to learn or fine-tune a language (choose from Spanish, Portuguese, German, Italian, French, or English) based on your level, travel schedule, learning style, and cultural interests, and prefer to stay in beautiful hotels, have transfers handled, plus enjoy a curated itinerary with suggestions for high-end experiences, I’d definitely suggest checking out Language & Luxury!

In full disclosure, I was so impressed by the company that I wanted to be a part of it. I’m happy to say I’m now one of Language & Luxury’s Destination Specialists. However, please know I’d be spreading the word about this amazing opportunity to learn a language and grow as a person even if I didn’t work there!

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Dining in Madrid Is More Than Just Dinner

Flamenco dancer and guitar player on stage

Story and photos by Alison Ramsey

Madrid, the colorful capital of Spain, has a vibrant culinary scene with myriad eatery options to bring visitors closer to the city’s authentic culture, traditions, and characters. To make the most of a visit, vary mealtime experiences by trying unique gastronomy options and formats.

Progressive Dinner Offers Premium Food Experience

Elysian Tales, the passion project of charismatic Marwa Preston, brings guests on a multi-stop fully customized progressive dinner throughout the city, with short walking trips between venues.

Woman at dinner table — Marwa Preston, backed by a Spanish-tiled wall at La Carmencita, sits with iced red
vermouth, served in its traditional small glass.

Michelin-Starred Fine Dining

One example program begins at the elegant, Michelin-starred Saddle restaurant, whose red velvet armchairs, full-ceiling skylights, and modern gold accents imbue sophistication and style. Join the chefs in the kitchen, where they teach participants to artfully scrape a creamy oval-shaped “butter quenelle” from a mountain of French butter to go with homemade sourdough bread and sparkling Corpinnat wine from Catalonia.

Friendly kitchen staff walk guests through plating a colorful vegetable course, using silver tweezers to decorate swirls of flavor with purple cauliflower, figs, carrots, strawberries, and edible flowers, and garnishing with fresh horseradish and sea salt. The quality of ingredients and combinations of interesting tastes here are beyond comparison, and the feeling of making it yourself alongside professional chefs in a gourmet kitchen is unmatched.

Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Sparkling Corpinnat wine, a colorful plated course, fresh bread, and local olive oil are part of a progressive dinner stop at Saddle.
Progressive dinner participants at Saddle learn the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.
Marwa Preston of Elysian Tales and the Saddle staff teach diners the art of plating a fresh vegetable and fruit dish.

Homestyle Comfort Food

A leisurely walk past the stately Supreme Court of Spain and Church of Santa Bárbara leads to friendly Chuecha neighborhood bistro La Carmencita Tavern. The second oldest tavern in Madrid and a famous locale for writers to frequent, this lively venue is full of locals sipping red vermouth (white wine infused with caramelized sugar and botanicals), nibbling in-house marinated olives, and sampling savory cheeses with honey farmed from the outskirts of Madrid. Preston described their Spanish version of “Russian salad” as tuna, potatoes, green peas, and vegetables, and “everyone from Spain will tell you their mom’s recipe is the best.”

A grandma’s-home-cooking recipe of beef pate on bread, and Mediterranean anchovies comprise bar food typical in this “Soho of Madrid” area. At this homey site where three generations of Carmens lived, the elaborately decorated Spanish tiles on the walls are all original, and the dining room used to be the house’s bedroom.

Dining room and appetizer plates — Red vermouth and traditional tapas make up a cozy homestyle meal at La Carmencita
Tavern.

Romantic Date-Night Atmosphere

Moody candlelight, rough-hewn wooden tables, open-flame ovens, dramatic wall art, and a vast collection of high-level wines make Charrúa Madrid a romantic stop on the journey. Fresh rosemary is burned 30 minutes before dinner service, and the pleasant aroma stimulates senses and heightens the dining experience.

Begin with hot beef consommé rich with vitamins and minerals, creamy cauliflower puree (“90% cauliflower and 10% butter,” said Preston) with freshly shaved truffles, and seasoned tomatoes. Roasted red pepper is served alongside tender, free-roaming grass-fed Retinta beef sirloin to bring out the meat’s flavor, with the acidity of the pepper cutting through the meat’s fattiness.

Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.
Rustic décor, dramatic lighting, and rich flavors at Charrúa Madrid make the venue a memorable stop on the dinner tour.

Dessert is torrija, a Spanish version of French toast that involves homemade brioche soaked in milk infused with cinnamon, orange rind, and lemon peel, and nested with yogurt ice cream. Preston explained that this is a typical Easter dish in Spain, although that time of year the bread is often soaked in wine instead of milk.

Despite the rich flavors in these courses, the food sits lightly in the stomach and is not fried, like many of the ham croquetas (deep-fried fritters) and bombas (fried mashed potato balls) served in touristy locations. With a short walk in between restaurants on this dining tour, guests don’t leave feeling stuffed and uncomfortable.

Funky Cocktail Bar

Wrap up the evening at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas, a venue with a Vegas-style disco bar, DJ, private karaoke screen, and room dedicated to Julio Iglesias in the back. Pick your garnish of choice (cinnamon, ginger, pepper, sugar cubes, dried lime) and describe your favorite flavors, scents, or even your favorite vinyl record, and the host will create a drink they sense will match your taste.

The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.
Select favorite garnishes at Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas and receive a custom-made beverage to match your taste.
The funky Bar Manero Marqués de Cubas features unusual interior decorating and vintage vibes.

The front restaurant area has a crocheted ceiling, handmade mosaic floors, Murano-glass–covered towers, many mirrors, and walls are hand-painted with Madrid panoramas. It is truly a unique scene and novel way to end an evening of gastronomic exploration.

This curated culinary experience by Elysian Tales allows visitors to experience the food selections and scenes at several different types of eateries even if they only spend a few days in Madrid.

Other Distinctive Dining Options in Madrid

Local Castilian and Madrid Cuisine

Dine at traditional Madrid establishment Posada de la Villa for a taste of Castilian and Madrid cuisine, including roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven (absolutely delicious, with tender meat falling off the bone), Bellota Iberian ham, Manchego cheese, homemade croquetas, tuna and tomato salad, Dehesa Valquejigoso wine, and “Posadero’s Dessert” trio of pastry, fried milk, and cheesecake. Dark wood and brick wall interiors, Iberian ham hanging from the rafters, excellent flavors, quality service, and an active scene of locals, people on business lunches, and foodies make this historic stop one to remember.

Traditional Madrid dining at Posada de la Villa includes local wines and roast suckling lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven.

Wine Masterclass and Tasting

Explore Madrid’s wine culture and cuisine by taking a masterclass at Vinology. At this wine bar and restaurant, sommelier and founder, Pilar Oltra, guides guests through an exploration of Madrid’s four wine-producing regions—Arganda del Rey, Navalcarnero, San Martín de Valdeiglesias, and El Molar—made up of almost 22 acres of vineyards and 45 wineries.

Learn about grape varieties, terroir (the unique combination of climate, soil, terrain, and tradition that shape the character of a wine), and sample five wines alongside five creative tapas, including homemade foie mi-cuit (semi-cooked duck) with quince, cecina (smoked beef) with toasted almonds and extra virgin olive oil, and anchovy with Iberian jowl.

Pilar Oltra, sommelier and founder of Vinology, stands by her storefront.
Snack and sample during an informative wine masterclass at Vinology.
Sommelier Pilar Oltra explains Madrid’s wine culture and regions during a tasting and masterclass at Vinology.

Dinner and Flamenco Show

The oldest, most prestigious, and most famous flamenco tablao (wooden stage) in the world is Corral de la Morería. Paired with its Michelin-starred haute cuisine designed by head chef, David García, this cultural dinner-and-show is a memorable way to involve all the senses in one evening experience.

Savor scallop carpaccio with tomato tartar, dates, and coconut ajoblanco (cold soup); poultry egg yolk over ropa vieja (shredded beef); sea bass and gilda (skewer of olive, anchovy, and pepper); and fruit sorbet or caramelized French toast made with fresh milk and served with banana ice cream.

For six decades, flamenco icons have graced the Corral de la Morería stage to showcase their art, and the venue is frequented by celebrities and visitors from across the globe (e.g., Frank Sinatra, Dua Lipa, Gloria Estefan). Here, the singers, dancers, and guitar players use feet, eyes, tongues, wrists, fingers, and flowing costumes to tell a dramatic story in sound and movement, with no translation needed, and present a new show every 7-10 days.

Flamenco dancer waving cape — A dramatic and sound-rich story is expressed on the Corral de la Moreria *tablao*.

“It’s the only dance in the world where the music follows the dancers,” said Armando del Rey, an owner of the family-run business his father, Manuel, began in 1956. Manuel hired Armando’s mother, Blanca, a very well-known choreographer and dancer in Spain, and Manuel and Blanca soon fell in love. Now, Manuel and his brother, Juanma, work with artistic director Blanca in the restaurant sector as well. Corral de la Morería is the only restaurant in the world with a Michelin star that has a dinner and tablao, and it is listed in The New York Times bestseller “1,000 Places to See Before You Die.”

Jazz Entertainment Club

For dinner and drinks in a flashy club atmosphere, make a reservation at the bustling two-story Pabblo. Here guests are treated to Mediterranean cooking from a wood-fired oven and charcoal grill, classic and innovative cocktails, Picasso-inspired décor, and live band music with lounge singers, dancers, and aerial silk artists.

Lounge singer performs with band — A live band, sultry singers, and glittering dancers present a high-energy show at
Pabblo’s dinner seating.

Between hummus, tuna tartar, fish and lamb courses, and a fun make-your-own ice cream sundae dessert platter, you’ll hear smooth saxophone jams, watch sequined showgirls shimmy and strut, and see a graceful gymnast draped around aerial ribbons and descending through the open ceiling from the upper level. Entertainment while eating is an exceptional way to end an evening out on the town.

Four Seasons’ Restaurants and Rooftop

The first Four Seasons hotel in Spain is found within an enormous and beautiful property block composed of seven historic buildings with a national-heritage–protected external façade. Within this complex, shop at Canalejas Gallery, the new luxury shopping arcade in central Madrid housing 40 boutiques and prestigious brands such as Dior, Cartier, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Armani, Tom Ford, and Tumi.

After browsing or buying, easily head to Four Seasons’ El Patio lobby bar (featuring the original marble columns and concierge desk from when the room used to be the operations area of the Spanish Credit Bank), the Isa Asian cuisine restaurant and cocktail bar, or Dani Brasserie for signature Mediterranean and Andalusian dishes and drinks on the top level.

Four Seasons’ rooftop patio looks into the Dani Brasserie dining room.
The rooftop patio of Dani Brasserie at the Four Seasons affords splendid views of Madrid’s Gran Via street.

At Dani Brasserie, don’t miss chef Dani García’s famous and savory “Red Tuna Descargamento,” served in a delicate rose shape, with yellow bell peppers, lime, and olive oil. From the rooftop patio outside the dining room, admire Madrid’s city lights, cool night air, and stunning panoramic views.

WHEN YOU GO…

Stay at the centrally located Hotel Villa Real for easy access to the Prado Museum, Retiro Park, Thyssen-Bornemisza National Museum, Royal Palace of Madrid, and Gran Via high-end shopping street.

The vast breakfast buffet and attentive waitstaff will ensure you start your mornings fueled with fresh coffee and juice, plenty of meats and cheeses, fresh and dried fruits, pastries, cereals, and eggs-to-order. On your way to breakfast, explore the art and archeology collection in the hotel’s museum, which holds restored Roman mosaics and sculptures, and a private collection of painted Apulian vases.

Breakfast at Hotel Villa Real is varied, colorful, and fresh.

The East 47 bar and restaurant off the front lobby serves drinks, tapas, crisp salads, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes—with terrace seating out front in Plaza de las Cortes during warmer summer months.

For more information about Madrid, go to Visit Madrid.

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Exploring Germany: Culture, Cuisine, and History on Viking Cruises

Even a 45-minute lecture can prepare you for the sights and scenes of Germany

Story and photos by Sharon Hudgins

Cruise Lecture Teaches History, Culture
If you watch Masterpiece and other programs on public television in America, you’re probably familiar with the phrase, “Viking. Proud sponsor of…”—accompanied by images from Viking’s “longboat” cruises on the Rhine, Mosel, and Danube rivers in Europe. Other times you see wanderlust-invoking scenes from Viking’s ocean-going fleet, which sails the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the Baltic and Mediterranean seas, and beyond, encircling the globe. And occasionally you’ll see the two new Viking polar-class expedition ships, the “Octantis” and “Polaris,” that sail to Antarctica in the Southern Hemisphere and the Great Lakes in the Northern Hemisphere.

Since 2017 I’ve had the pleasure of being a guest speaker on Viking Ocean Cruises in Europe, giving lectures on historical, cultural, and culinary topics aboard ships sailing from Viking’s home port in Bergen, Norway, to most of the countries bordering on the Baltic Sea.

The “Viking Sea” ship docked at a Baltic port.

That itinerary follows the routes of the Hanseatic League, the medieval trading confederation that linked the countries of England, northern Europe, and Russia, and also the routes of the earlier, historical Vikings, who plied the waters of the Baltic, too.

Viking prides itself on focusing on the history and cultures of every country on its itineraries. So the cruise director on each ship schedules lectures about those destinations one or two days before the ship arrives in a port, to prepare passengers for the sights, sounds, and tastes of each new country they visit.

While the cruise ship guests are away during the day on shore excursions to a variety of places in those countries, the ship’s staff refills the vessel’s fuel tanks, cleans the guest rooms and public spaces, restocks food supplies, and prepares meals for hungry passengers when they come back on board. The singers, dancers, and musicians also use that time to rehearse their next shows on stage.

Cultural Stereotypes and Truths
So what does that have to do with Germany? Many cruise lines sailing in the Baltic dock at the busy German port of Warnemünde. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Warnemünde and the surrounding area, as a guest speaker on Viking, National Geographic-Lindblad, and Oceania cruises, as well as on press trips for journalists gathering new material for articles to write. But only on Viking cruises have I had the opportunity to present a 45-minute illustrated lecture about that entire country of Germany, a nation I often think of as “my second home.”

I begin with a short introduction telling how long I lived in Germany (15 years) and what I was doing there (teaching for the University of Maryland’s education programs at U.S. military bases, writing for the Stars and Stripes newspaper). I also mention that for 28 years I was a writer for German Life magazine in America, too. Then I launch into my lecture: “Germany: Land of Laptops and Lederhosen.”

A lecture on “all-of-Germany” in 45 minutes? How is that possible? Not easy without being superficial, I assure you. And that’s exactly how I begin my lecture, showing pictures of the stereotypes that many people have about Germany: Men in Lederhosen. Women wearing Dirndls. Oompah bands and choral groups clothed in traditional Trachten, too. Half-timbered houses and fairy-tale castles. Foaming mugs of beer. Strings of sausages. Pretzels!

Then I point out that stereotypes often contain a grain of truth. But they’re only one part of a many-faceted story (or country), factors that exist side-by-side with all of them being true simultaneously.

Modern Germany – Regions and Festivals
So I segue easily into modern Germany: High-speed highways. High-speed trains. High-tech industries. High fashion. Avant-garde art and architecture. Michelin-starred restaurants and Turkish döner kebab stands. And all those oh-so-wonderful German breads and pastries!

There’s no way anyone could condense centuries of German history into such a lecture. So I focus on Germany today, starting with Berlin and the country’s government (with a nod to the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall), and an overview of Germany’s population, literacy rate, national health insurance program, religions, and economy. The rest of my presentation is about the characteristics of its four main regions, from North to South, East to West, including those regions’ differing landscapes, architecture, industries, and cuisines. Then I conclude with—what else?—Oktoberfest! That world-renowned German beer festival brings me full circle back to the beginning of my lecture: The coexistence of stereotypes and deeper, often contrasting, realities in Germany today, a land of computers and cowbells indeed.

Viking Ships and Excursions
Viking’s ocean vessels carry 960 guests, plus a large, well-trained crew. While in port, most of the passengers head off on shore excursions, and even some of the ship’s employees have a few hours of shore leave, too. When the ship is docked in Warnemünde, Viking offers half-day and full-day excursions to several locations in northern Germany: the Hanseatic cities of Rostok, Lübeck, and Wismar; a classic 19th-century spa town reached by steam train; the magnificent castle in Schwerin; the grim concentration camp at Sachsenhausen.

But the most popular destination is Berlin—six hours round-trip by special train, plus six hours of touring various parts of the city and its historical sites, by chartered buses and on foot with knowledgeable guides, or just exploring Berlin on your own. One excursion even includes lunch at the Reichstag, along with a special tour of that iconic building so important in Germany’s history.

Clockwise from left: The German Reichstag in Berlin, as seen from the Spree River.
The modernistic Marie-Elizabeth-Lueders-Haus government building near the Reichstag in Berlin.
The facades of many Berlin buildings are best viewed from a boat ride on the Spree River.

On my first Baltic cruise with Viking, the only time available for my Germany lecture was at 9 p.m. on the night before we docked at Warnemünde. Since half the 960 guests on that ship had signed up for the 12-hour shore excursions to Berlin the next day—and since they all had to get up at 5 a.m. to board the train at 6 that morning—I expected only a few people to attend my lecture that night. After all, passengers could always watch a video of it on television in their own cabins, any time later during the cruise. So I was surprised when half the ship showed up for that introduction-to-Germany lecture, filling the lecture hall.

The next evening we all returned from Berlin, tired but happy, after a full day of riding the rails through the German countryside, visiting one of the world’s great capital cities, and learning so much about Berlin’s special place in history. But another treat awaited us back in Warnemünde. A red carpet led from the cruise ship terminal across the pier to the ship’s gangway. Lined up along the sides were the ship’s officers and staff, from the captain to the cabin cleaners. At the terminal each guest was handed a glass of sparkling wine, which we all tried to balance in one hand while dancing along the red carpet to lively music, with many of the crew joining in, as we made our way back to the ship.

Top: One of the modernistic fountains in Rostock, a shore excursion destination on Viking Baltic cruises.
Lower left: Street musician in Rostock, one of the cities on shore excursions from Viking ships docked at Warnemünde, Germany, on Baltic cruises.
Middle and lower right: The colorful Alter Strom inner harbor at Warnemünde is always filled with small fishing boats and sightseeing boats.

German Culinary Delights on Deck
Dinners on board that evening featured traditional German specialties, from Sauerbraten to Schnitzel, Black Forest Cherry Cake to Bavarian Cream. And of course plenty of German beers and wines, too! As we sailed away from Warnemünde, the only regret for me was leaving a country where I have such deep roots. But we still had five other Baltic countries to visit on that cruise, so who was I to complain about new adventures awaiting the next day? And there was always the prospect of another cruise, or even a different kind of job, bringing me back to Germany in the future.

One of the greatest rewards of working on tours in Germany has been introducing other people to such a fascinating country. Nothing compares with the feeling I get when a member of our tour group comes up to me and says, “Thank you for your lecture about Germany. Because of you, I saw the country with different eyes when we were there.”

Left: One of the many pretty villas overlooking the waterfront at Warnemünde.
Right: Sand sculpture at the cruise ship dock in Warnemünde.

Sharon Hudgins is a professional writer and a lecturer on educational tours to Europe, Alaska, and North Asia. See more at www.sharonhudgins.com

Visit Viking Cruises to explore cruise destinations and itineraries.

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3 Countries, 2 Ski Resorts, 1 Week in Europe

Wishing you had planned a getaway this past spring break? It’s not too early to start planning for next year, and to think big with a European adventure!

By Alison Ramsey

Stateside spring break destinations abound, but consider using that week of vacation time to explore three German-language European countries—Switzerland, Austria, and Germany—all easily reachable from each other by train. The Eurail Global Pass allows travelers to seamlessly cross country borders by rail using a single scannable QR code pass in the app. It’s a fantastic opportunity to maximize your time abroad and visit multiple countries all in one overseas trip.

Eurail train travel is scenic and comfortable, and the well-designed Eurail app makes it easy to view train schedules and plan your trip.

Time in the mountains is essential if you’re headed to the Alpine countries of Switzerland and Austria. Downhill skiing in the Alps can be exhilarating, great exercise, and a fun social activity—as proven by the millions of visitors to throng ski resorts like Davos Klosters in Switzerland and St. Anton am Arlberg in Austria each year. Both destinations are part of the Best of the Alps organization’s carefully curated collection of classic mountain resorts and offer excellent ski schools.

A 2.5-hour train ride from the Zürich Airport, the 13,000-inhabitant Alpine village of Davos is the highest city in Switzerland, at 5,147 feet above sea level. Its Ski School Davos, part of the Swiss Ski and Snowboard School, is the biggest and oldest ski school in the country. Students here can learn from patient, professional instructors, who focus on safety and ensure basic skills are mastered before introducing more difficult maneuvers or terrain. Experienced skiers have 157 miles of ski trails on 81 different slopes to explore over five separate ski areas, including the iconic Parsenn skiing and hiking area, famous for its wide pistes and long runs.

Private and group lessons are offered at Ski School Davos, with ski equipment rental available at Top Secret Ski & Snowboard Shop, directly across the street from Bolgen Plaza.

The Alps are inviting even to those not wearing skis. For a fun take on tobogganing, try sledging down the 2.2-mile Rinerhorn run in Davos. Take the ski lift to the top and pilot your wooden sledge down the steep and curving 33-bend slope—one of the most challenging sledging runs around—braking with knees bent and feet flat on the snow and changing direction by shifting weight and pulling the steering rope. It’s like high-speed Mario Kart in the mountains!

Rinerhorn has slopes for skiers and sledgers.

If you’re staying at the comfy mountain chalet Hotel Waldhuus in Davos, be sure to spend time in the large indoor pool and experience the Switzerland sauna lifestyle in their bio sauna, herbal sauna, or new Finnish sauna. Usually co-ed and textile-free, sauna visitors in Switzerland use towels simply for hygiene purposes—not as a cover-up, but to sit on so sweat doesn’t touch the wood. Sauna usage is linked to many health benefits and can lower blood pressure, improve cardiovascular health and circulation, reduce soreness after exercise, promote muscle recovery, stimulate immune system support, reduce stress, and eliminate toxins. A swim and sauna session after a full day of activity feels physically and mentally healing, especially in a clean and well-maintained facility.

Unwind in Hotel Waldhuus’ comfortable accommodations with terrific spa facilities, and try the delicious tiramisu and enormous fresh breakfast spread in the Waldhuus Restaurant.

For a taste of the Austrian Alps, a 3.5-hour train ride brings you to St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria, where you can make your home base the classy Hotel Schwarzer Adler. Here, white-glove dinner service offers perfectly flavored and artfully plated meat and vegan dishes, homemade comfort foods including butter Spätzle (egg noodle pasta), and delectable desserts like “chocolate 5 ways,” with Austrian wines for pairing. You can swim in the outdoor sky pool under the pure mountain air or unwind indoors in the relaxation room, saunas, or sparkling indoor pool. Treat yourself to a spa package from the massage menu or simply sip an espresso on your hotel room balcony with a view of snowy peaks and a soundtrack of church bells and birdsong.

The Schwarzer Adler Hotel provides luxurious dining experiences and relaxation outlets.

Skischule Arlberg is the award-winning largest ski school in Austria, founded by Hannes Schneider, the father of the modern “Arlberg technique” skiing style. Before Schneider’s development of this forward semi-squatting posture, the trend was to stand erect with rigid knees, a position derived from Nordic or cross-country skiing, which wasn’t a practical stance for the steep Tyrolian terrain. Ski instructors at Skischule Arlberg keep lessons fun and stress-free, moving at the students’ pace and providing encouragement without pushing too far beyond current comfort levels. For those unaccustomed to ski life, it’s an excellent introduction to what many Alpine locals grow up learning from a young age.

Ski School Arlberg prepares skiers to achieve their athletic goals.

An incredible highlight of St. Anton—no skis needed—is up on the very peak of Valluga, at 9,222 miles above sea level. Ride the “Galzigbahn” ski lift to the first mountain station, where you can snack at the Galzig Restaurant, shop in the ski store, and watch athletes descend the slopes. Then ascend with the “Vallugabahn I” lift through fog and clouds to the Vallugagrat station and the Valluga View Restaurant. One more ride in the small “Vallugabahn II” cable car brings you to the pinnacle lookout point—a circular railed platform open to the intense sun and whipping wind, with breathtaking views of snow-covered Alps in every direction. You have a clear panorama from Lake Constance to Switzerland and the Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. From here, you can see the extraordinary beauty of the glacier-carved gorges as well as the splendid organization of the ski resort, with numerous lifts in motion, skiers gracefully carving patterns into the snow, and sky-high facilities with everything you might need for your day in the heights.

Unbeatable Valluga views are a highlight of St. Anton am Arlberg.

Don’t leave the Alps without an après-ski experience! St. Anton am Arlberg holds many opportunities to unwind and let loose after a day of athletics. You can party hard with club music and tasty drinks at any number of après-ski huts, or partake in a casual post-ski meal at the rustic Sennhütte restaurant right on the slopes—its entrance marked by an enormous pair of Lederhosen. Either ski down the hill right to the restaurant or take a free bus trip there from the town center and hike up the WunderWanderWeg (wonder walking way) pathway from the bus stop. The back patio balcony affords an outstanding view into the mountains—a brilliant backdrop for sampling Käsespätzle (thick cheesy noodles topped with crispy fried onions), Schnitzel and Pommes (fried meat cutlets and French fries), and gulping a refreshing beer or Skiwasser (“ski water”—an alcohol-free blend of raspberry syrup, lemon juice, and water or seltzer).

Giant lederhosen and the WunderWanderWeg lead the way to Sennhütte.

Any beer fans or German-language–lovers know that Bavaria is a nearby European destination worth visiting, so travel by Eurail from St. Anton 3.5 hours northeast and you’ll end up in Munich, Germany. A short walk from the Munich main train station through a Mediterranean district brings you to the fresh and inviting greenery-filled lobby of the KOOS Hotel. A prime location near Karlsplatz bus and streetcar stops, the KOOS Hotel is also within easy walking distance of the Altstadt, Munich’s medieval old town. KOOS Hotel’s vegan-friendly personal care products in the rooms and numerous vegetarian and vegan breakfast selections are a welcome perk for those with specific preferences and dietary needs. The hotel is also a role model for sustainability and is entirely paperless, with a digital check-in process and novel phone-activated room entry in lieu of a room key. This family- and dog-friendly haven near the city center has all you need for your stay, including an in-room washing machine and clothesline for freshening up travel clothes.

Environmental consideration and convenience are key at KOOS Hotel.

If you’re looking to buy some “new-to-you” threads, consider a walk to Holareidulijö traditional Bavarian clothing store. Affable and knowledgeable shop owner, Michaela Klein, lovingly restores and resells used Dirndl, Lederhosen, hats, vests, and myriad Bavarian accessories and jewelry, while offering an assortment of new shirts and socks to match her wares. During Oktoberfest season, Klein’s store and the extra garage unit in back are packed with shoppers searching rows of racks for colorful festival outfits and drinking the free beer she offers during her busiest weeks.

Holareidulijö is a treasure trove of authentic, high-quality refurbished Trachten.

For a fantastic meal and some Augustiner beer or a selection from about 160 different wines, head to Xaver’s—a stylish restaurant and brew pub with a warm wood interior and a mix of small and large tables for date night or Stammtisch (“regulars’ table,” where friends recurrently gather to eat, drink, and socialize). Here, young and old alike are drawn to the restaurant motto’s “refreshingly traditional” vibe that features fun and friendly staff clad in traditional Bavarian costume (including genial owner Xaver himself, a sommelier and one of several restaurant-owning brothers). The menu features classic Bavarian dishes reimagined with a fresh take using locally farmed ingredients, as well as innovative entrees that change every six weeks. The lively music and cheerful atmosphere make you want to come back and be part of the scene— same time next week.

With a fresh take on Old World style, Xaver’s serves locally grown foods, Augustiner beer, and wines galore.

Spend a sunny day walking through the English Gardens to see brave wet-suited surfers on the man-made river waves and stop at the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm (beer garden at the Chinese tower) for a fresh-baked pretzel and a mug of beer, Maracuja (passion fruit) juice with water, or Johannisbeere (black currant) juice with water. Kids can play on the jungle gym while adults chat and people-watch, all while listening to the lively oompah band playing from the second level of the tower.

On a nice day, the English Gardens fills with picnickers, volleyball players, surfers, and groups of friends.

For a dose of education, head to the Deutsches Museum, one of the world’s largest natural science and technology museums. Through hands-on experiments and interactive exhibits, explore the physics of light and sound, observe chemical reactions, and learn about human body physiology. An enormous aviation center and historic airplane hangar allow visitors to climb into cockpits and pilot model airplanes. In the Musical Instruments exhibition, try your hand at playing the theremin—an electronic musical instrument played by placing hands in the air between two antennas that sense the hands’ positions and control frequency and volume.

Deutsches Museum interactive exhibits make learning fun.

After two nights in each city—Davos, Switzerland; St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria; and Munich, Germany—a flight out of Munich Airport concludes an adventure exploring towns in three different countries all within one week. Thanks to Eurail’s flexible Global Pass, it is a fantastic way to get a taste of multiple countries with just one set of airline flights!

Eurail offers speedy and smooth transportation, and window seats to beautiful scenery.

Looking for more ski opportunities? Visit bestofthealps.com to learn more about top ski resorts that help define and cultivate Alpine culture. Best of the Alps is a collection of 9 Alpine resorts that showcase mountain village magic and charm in Switzerland, Austria, France, and Italy. For more than 30 years, the Best of the Alps organization has encouraged exploration of the cultures, communities, traditions, natural wonders, and distinctions of these remarkable Alpine destinations: Chamonix-Mont-Blanc and Megève in France; Cortina d’Ampezzo and Courmayeur in Italy; Crans-Montana and Davos Klosters in Switzerland; and Kitzbühel, Lech Zürs am Arlberg, and St. Anton am Arlberg in Austria.

Echoes of the Past Enchant Istanbul Hotel Guests

The Pera Palace Hotel, in business since the late 19th century, retains its Old World panache, captivating patrons with elite amenities and Belle Epoque charm

By Randy Mink

Just about every major European city has a historic luxury hotel that begs nostalgia-minded folks like me to come take a peek or maybe bed down for a night or two. I tend to make a beeline to such hostelries—those with a story to tell and grand trappings to go with it—even if it’s just for a brief walk through the lobby or to soak up the ambience over a drink in the bar.

In Istanbul, the Pera Palace Hotel started life in the 1890s when the Turkish city (then called Constantinople) needed a place suitable for hosting wealthy passengers arriving from Paris and other points in Western Europe on the Orient Express, the luxury train made famous by English author Agatha Christie. It’s said that she wrote some of Murder on the Orient Express while staying at the Pera Palace in the 1930s.

The hotel has endured through the reigns of three Ottoman sultans, the fall of the Ottoman Empire and the rise of the new Turkish Republic in the 1920s. Between World Wars I and II, it was at the center of international intrigue in the Pera neighborhood, then a hotbed of espionage and geopolitical machinations involving players from throughout the Continent. Pera, with its numerous military and diplomatic posts, was once called Little Europe.

The Pera Palace today retains its lofty position as a place to see and be seen. Trying not to gape, I entered the high-ceilinged lobby on the red carpet inscribed with the hotel’s name in gold letters, glancing up at the crystal chandeliers and plush red draperies on my way to the reception desk. Gleaming marble walls, floors and balustrades, along with brass urns brimming with palm fronds, set the tone as well.

The Pera Palace Hotel is one of Istanbul’s elite addresses. (Photo credit: Pera Palace Hotel)

Famous Guests of the Pera Palace

Over the years, the same grandeur has greeted notables like England’s King Edward VIII and Queen Elizabeth II, Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Josef, Shah Reza Pahlavi of Iran, President Tito of Yugoslavia and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis. Hollywood royalty has included Zsa Zsa Gabor, Greta Garbo and Alfred Hitchcock. As a reporter after World War I, Ernest Hemingway was a hotel resident.

In Turkish eyes, the most important figure to grace the Pera Palace was Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, revered as the father of modern Turkey. When in Istanbul between 1917 and 1926, the country’s first president resided in Suite 101, which is now a museum devoted to him. A stern-looking Ataturk mannequin—holding a cane and dressed in a green army uniform and black cape and hat—stands in the sitting room. Along with vintage photographs, newspaper clippings and a Time magazine cover bearing Ataturk’s image, personal possessions on display include the national hero’s eyeglasses, goggles, pajamas, shoes, white linen suit jacket and black silk prayer rug. The museum, free to hotel guests, is open to the public for a fee.

Suite 101 in Istanbul’s Pera Palace Hotel is a museum dedicated to the memory of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, founder of the modern republic of Turkey. (Randy Mink Photo)

The guest room where Christie stayed, number 411, now carries her name, and the hotel restaurant is named Agatha. Framed black-and-white photographs of past guests, including Garbo, Hemingway, Zsa Zsa and Jackie O, adorn the restaurant’s back wall.

Dining at Istanbul’s Pera Palace Hotel

Agatha Restaurant’s bountiful buffet breakfast offers everything from salads and olives to cheeses, cold cuts and quail eggs. Pastries include mini donuts, mini croissants and simits, the sesame-seeded dough rings found throughout Turkey. For spreading on breads and rolls, I made good use of the honeycomb, tahini, grape molasses, jams and clotted cream. I had more than my share of the cheese balls covered in sesame seeds, black cumin, pistachios or poppy seeds. Among the hot dishes: cheese quiche, cheese soufflé, falafel, artichoke soup, pancakes and porridge.

The breakfast buffet at Agatha Restaurant offers many choices, including a wide variety of olives. (Randy Mink Photo)

More treats await at Patisserie de Pera, an intimate cafe reached from the hotel lobby or separate street entrance. Rose-colored walls and furnishings lend a soft touch, and red-accented Venetian glass chandeliers hang from the pink ceiling in each of the two salons. This is the place for a leisurely mid-morning coffee or tea break accompanied by a decadent fruit tart, slice of cheesecake or an assortment of chocolates or macarons.

The gift shop just outside the cafe (actually just a glass cabinet) provides a wide variety of Pera Palace mementoes. Items include socks, umbrellas, bathrobes and other things bearing the hotel logo. There are coasters, coffee mugs and souvenir plates. How about an Ataturk tea set or the paperback Murder on the Orient Express?

Patisserie de Pera is the place to linger over pastries and a cup of coffee or tea. (Randy Mink Photo)

Steps from the merchandise cabinet is an original sedan chair once used to carry Orient Express passengers from the train station to the Pera Palace.

A traditional afternoon tea with piano music is served under the six skylight domes of the Kubbeli Lounge. Featuring elements of Islamic architecture, the two-story-high room is decorated in dark reds and deep plums, as is the nearby Orient Bar, another plush spot to drink in visions of a bygone era. The equally stylish Library Room seating area, complete with bookcases and antique globes, extends from the lounge and bar.

The hotel’s Kubbelli Lounge hosts a traditional afternoon tea. (Photo credit: Pera Palace Hotel)

The Pera Palace’s Orient Bar provides an elegant setting for cocktails. (Randy Mink Photo)

Guest Rooms at the Pera Palace Hotel

More flashbacks to yesteryear are in store on a fun ride in the hotel’s original electric elevator, installed only three years after the Eiffel Tower’s elevator. The wood-and-cast-iron cage, operated by a staff member, is used only for arriving hotel guests. For normal use, a set of modern elevators services the six guest room floors.

The original elevator’s wood-and-cast-iron cage is well over a century old. (Photo credit: Pera Palace Hotel)

From tall windows in my room, number 506 in the Deluxe Golden Horn category, I had views of the Golden Horn, the waterway that separates modern Istanbul from the Old City on the other shore—and the primary inlet of the Bosphorus Strait. Amenities in the marble bath included thick white towels and robes. The pillow cases, hand towels and robes all bore the gold Pera Palace heraldic crest.

Deluxe King and Deluxe Twin rooms at the hotel feature pillowcases and plush robes that bear the Pera Palace’s heraldic crest.

Guest rooms at the Pera Palace are spread across six floors. Each floor has display cases filled with artifacts that illustrate the hotel’s colorful history. (Photo credit: Pera Palace Hotel)

On the morning before checking out, I made a point of visiting all six floors to peruse the display cases exhibiting old photos, menus, ledgers, china and silverware from the hotel and Orient Express. On the fourth floor I found the Agatha Christie Room, wishing the door would be open so I could see inside. For me, it will always be a mystery.