EuropeanTraveler

Christmas Markets Along the Danube

Explore the Christmas Markets with this easy river and rail adventure.

By Marilyn Heimburger
Photos by Don Heimburger

As the weather turns colder and stores begin playing Christmas music to heighten anxiety about getting everything done before Christmas, I yearn to spend the Advent season once again in Germany’s beautiful Christkindlmarkts.

Not long ago, a friend also expressed her longing to visit the famous Christkindlmarkts in Germany and Austria during Advent, but didn’t know where to begin. Which ones should she see? How do you find accommodations in each town, and arrange transportation from market to market? The planning seemed too daunting, and she just never got started.

European Traveler discovered the perfect plan to make that dream come true: last Advent we took a nine-day Christmas market tour by river and rail that was easy and convenient. We experienced more than a dozen Christmas markets along the Danube River in Germany and Austria, with guided tours in towns along the way.

VIKING AEGIR
The river portion of our “Advent along the Danube” trip was on the Viking Aegir, a 1-½-year-old Viking River Cruise ship which sailed from Budapest to Nuremberg. One of the best perks of a river cruise is that you unpack only once for the week. Meals are provided for you, and the ship delivers you from market to market, with local tour guides waiting when you dock, and activities onboard while you leisurely cruise from market to market. What could be easier?

On board the Viking *Aegir*, passengers relax in comfort with a beautiful view of Germany and Austria through panoramic floor to ceiling windows.

Although the cruise began in Budapest the day before, we chose to fly to Vienna and board the ship there. We moved into our spacious stateroom, complete with private bathroom with shower, drawers and closet for clothing, queen-sized bed, mini-fridge, TV and sliding glass doors on the balcony, offering a non-stop view along the Danube as Austria and Germany glided by.

Comfortable cabins await the passengers aboard the Viking *Aegir* cruise ship.

VIENNA’S MAGIC OF ADVENT
Since the boat dock is some distance from the city center, Viking provides bus transportation to and from Vienna’s largest Christmas market, which glitters in the shadow of Vienna’s City Hall. Named “Wiener Adventzauber,” or “Vienna’s Magic of Advent,” it features hundreds of vendors in wooden huts offering local pastry, sausage and hot drink specialties, gifts, decorations, candles and accessories. There are pony rides, story reading on the Celestial Stage, appearances by the Viennese Christkind, and even arts and crafts and baking stations inside the Rathaus so children can make their own gifts and Christmas goodies.

Located inside Vienna’s Rathaus is a baking workshop, where children can make their own cookies.

Within walking distance of the Rathaus market are several other Christmas markets, smaller but with their own local focus and definitely worth a visit. Markets in other parts of Vienna are on Maria-Theresien-Platz, in the Old AKH, on Freyung, the Am Hof Advent Market, at Belvedere Palace, on Karlslatz, on Spittelberg, at Stephansplatz, on Riesenradplatz, and at the Schönbrunn Palace. To see all of them would take an extra day or two! We saved some of our market visits for after the cruise, when we returned to Vienna by rail for our flight back home.

Vienna has several smaller Christmas markets each with their own style and specialties, and each worth a visit.

The local food experiences aren’t limited to the Christmas markets. Upon our chilly return to the ship, we were met with Lebkuchen and hot mulled wine, and Vienna’s famous Sachertorte for dessert after the onboard dinner.

900-YEAR-OLD MELK ABBEY
The small Christmas market at Melk, Austria, our next port of call, is only open on weekends, and unfortunately not during our visit. But we enjoyed a guided tour of the beautiful 900-year-old baroque Melk Abbey, and bought the famous local apricot liqueur.

A “Taste of Austria” luncheon aboard the Viking Aegir featured plenty of sausage and a Lederhosen-clad accordion player.

Leisurely travel on the Danube with its many locks means plenty of time for relaxing. To add to our Advent experience during that time, local culture is brought onboard: “A Taste of Austria” lunch included music by a Lederhosen-clad accordion player. A strudel-making demonstration showed that a tea towel was the trick to rolling the paper-thin dough around the apple/raisin/rum filling. As we neared the Bavarian town of Passau, a traditional Black Forest cake was the featured dessert after dinner.

(left to right) The Simon family bakers demonstrate the art of making gingerbread in Passau.; A beautiful Advent wreath is easy to make, as demonstrated in Passau.

ADVENT TRADITIONS IN PASSAU
Our stop in Passau began a complete day of Advent tradition, all within easy walking distance from the boat dock. We learned the history and art of making Advent wreaths and the famous Simon family gingerbread, and were treated to a midday Advent organ concert at Passau’s St. Stephen’s Cathedral on the world’s largest cathedral organ. The main Passau Christmas market boasts a Bavarian flair with crafts and regional specialties, sausages, Glühwein and gingerbread.

Back on board our Viking ship we enjoyed tea time with plum cake, apple cake and other regional dessert specialties.

HISTORIC REGENSBURG
The next day’s stop in Regensburg included a town tour with visits to the Hutkönig, a world famous hatmaker; a cuckoo clock-making demonstration; and the oldest sausage kitchen in Germany, which has been serving sausages for 900 years, since catering to the workers who built the adjacent Stone Bridge.

(left to right) A cuckoo clock-making demonstration was a tour option in Regensburg.; Regensburg’s famous Hutkönig had very special hats to offer.

ROMANTIC MARKET AT THE PALACE OF THURN AND TAXIS
Regensburg’s main Christmas market spreads out near the cathedral, but another Regensburg highlight is the Romantic Christmas Market set in the courtyard and surrounding park of the Palace of Thurn and Taxis. Here the pathways are lit by torches, lanterns and lighted ropes wrapped around wooden fences, and there are hay bales for seating and open fires for warming stations. The bough-covered wooden stalls offer unique products obviously chosen for their quality and beauty. Although there is a fee of 6 -7 Euros to enter this private market, it was one of our favorites, and well worth the price.

The beautiful Romantic Christmas Market is on the grounds of the Palace of Thurn and Taxis in Regensburg.

After a full day in Regensburg, the local Advent experience continued on board as we were greeted with hot Glühwein and heart- and star-shaped Lebkuchen.

Red- and white-striped awnings decorate this Lebkuchen stall at Nuremberg’s historic Christkindlmarkt. The Christkind stands high on the balcony of the church on the left to open the market.

NUREMBERG’S CENTURIES-OLD CHRISTKINDLMARKT
Our ship’s last stop was at Nuremberg, which boasts a 400-year-old Christmas market tradition. Once again, Viking provided bus transportation to and from the Christkindlmarkt on the Hauptmarkt square, since the boat dock is some distance away. Nearly 200 wooden stalls decorated with red- and white-striped awnings invite visitors from all over the world – more than two million each year – to sample the traditional gingerbread, sweets, sausages, potato pancakes and Glühwein, to buy their ornaments, candles, toys and prune men.

(left to right) The Children’s Christmas market in Nuremberg has rides and booths with hands-on activities for children, and appearances by Nuremberg’s Christkind.; Nuremberg’s unique Handwerkerhof is located at the distinctive Königtor within the historic city walls.

A few steps away is a children’s Christkindlmarkt with colorful rides, booths with hands-on activities, hot punch and Nuremberg’s beloved Christkind.

Don’t miss the nearby “Sister City” Christmas market featuring wares from Nuremberg’s sister cities around the world, and yet another Christmas market setting in Nuremberg’s distinctive Handwerkerhof, located at the Königstor within the historic city wall.

Though the river cruise part of our trip was over, and it was difficult to leave the cocoon of comfort we experienced on the ship, we had more markets to visit on our way back to Vienna.

INTER CITY EXPRESS SPEED AND COMFORT
With a first class Eurail pass in hand, we boarded the fast Inter City Express (ICE) train from Nuremberg to Vienna. The Eurail pass, which we had to purchase in the U.S., allowed us to hop on and off the train for more Christmas market visits enroute to Vienna. Sitting in a six-seat “quiet room” directly behind the engineer gave us a clear view of the tracks ahead, a rail buff’s dream. The track generally followed the Danube, busy with barge traffic, with snow-covered mountains in the distance and large balls of mistletoe visible in the bare trees along the route.

Through the panoramic windows we watched the snow-covered forests and villages speed by, looking like gingerbread creations sprinkled with powdered sugar. We saw firewood meticulously piled high in covered sheds in preparation for the long cold winter, and churchyard cemeteries somehow decked out with colorful plants: lavender, heather – where does all the winter floral color come from?

MORE CHRISTKINDLMARKTS AT LINZ
Soon we arrived at Linz, the location of our next Christmas market experience. We left our luggage in lockers at the train station and bought a ticket for the Linz City Express which took us through the town’s main shopping area to the Christkindlmarkt near the river on the Hauptplatz.

Nestled between the town’s centuries-old Baroque townhouses, this market featured wares by artists and artisans, with traditional hot drinks, Bratwürstlein and pastries. At the nearby Goldmann’s Bakery we sampled the town’s famous Linzer Torte. Lights above the stalls are designed to look like river waves, and a specially-designed light display above the river depicts angels blowing bubbles through a straw.

(left and bottom right) Vendors at the Schönbrunn Christmas Market offer painted pewter decorations and beautifully detailed figures for Nativity scenes.; Hot Glühwein in generous mugs, and stick-to-the-ribs comfort food hit the spot at the Schönbrunn Palace Christmas Market

Another short City Express ride delivered us to the Christmas market at the Folksgarten, which featured rides for children, stalls offering warm hats, scarves, decorations, and more hot drinks, pastries and comfort food.

Retrieving our luggage, we completed our train journey to Vienna, where one more very special Christmas Market beckoned.

SCHÖNBRUNN PALACE CHRISTMAS MARKET
Vienna’s famous Schönbrunn Palace hosts its own large and very beautiful Christmas market. Situated on the grounds in front of the UNESCO World Heritage site, this unique market still has plenty of room to wander through the juried product stalls. Six food stands are centrally located, as is a towering lighted tree and a magnificently carved nativity scene. The Schönbrunn Market celebrates its 21st year in 2014, and has grown in size and popularity each year. This market easily sets a new standard with its attention to detail in set-up and design.

For those wondering how to experience the Christmas markets in Germany and Austria in comfort and convenience, this trip by river and rail is the answer.

Websites to visit if you go:
vikingrivercruises.com
eurailpass.com
Vienna Christkindlmarkt
Nuremberg Christkindlmarkt
German Christmas Markets
Linz Austria Christmas Markets
Passau Christmas Market
Regensburg Christmas Market
German National Tourism Board
Austrian Tourism Board

Cycling Through the Green Vilnius

Cathedral of Vilnius on Cathedral Square

Photos courtesy Vilnius Tourism

Vilnius, capitol of Lithuania, is not only famous for its old town, which is included in the UNESCO World Heritage list, but also for all its greenery. This city can definitely also be called a cyclist’s dream.

Start the route around the old town from Cathedral Square, considered to be the very heart of Vilnius. Visit the snow-white Cathedral of Vilnius.

From the square you can see Gediminas Hill with its 15th century tower of the Upper Castle and the Hill of Three Crosses. Climb these hills and enjoy an amazing view of the old town.

The cycle path from Cathedral Square leads to Pilies Street, the oldest and the most gorgeous street in the entire city. Pilies Street widens into Didžioji Street, at the end of which stands the white Vilnius Town Hall.

Here you can turn right into Vokiečių Street. Cross over Traku Street to Vilnius Street, which brings you to Gediminas Avenue, the main street of the capital. Turn right and here you are again, standing in front of the cathedral.

Cross the Neris River on the Mindaugas Bridge and you arrive at a section of the cycle path, where you will forget you are in a city. Feel the greenness and quietness surrounding you. All the way around the Neris River is on the right.

Starting at the Santariškės traffic ring, a 3-mile-long asphalt cycle path has been built. It goes along Green Lakes, crosses Verkiai forest, and finally ends at the intersection with
Gulbineliai Street.

While on this path don’t miss the architectural complex of Verkiai Palace, built 200 years ago. In ancient times, there was a pagan temple here. Behind the palace, on a cliff, is an observation platform, from which a view of the Neris Valley opens up.

Take forest roads from Verkiai Palace and you arrive at Ežerėliai Geomorphologic Reserve. At the top of the hill you will see Alsas Lake. Go down to Gulbinai Street which leads towards Balsys Lake and cross the small linden forest and finally you arrive at Balsys Lake, where swimming on a hot summer day is refreshing.

If you prefer not to travel alone, you can always join cycling trips around Verkiai Regional Park, organized by the Pavilnys and Verkiai Regional Parks administration. During the warm season you can travel the route Verkiai Palace – Ežerėliai – Green Lakes – Riešė and Turniškėlė – Verkiai Palace.

For more info http://www.vilnius-tourism.lt/en

Schwabinger Christmas Market: Flying High, Yet Down to Earth

Photos courtesy Schwabinger Christmas Market and Thomas Gießner

In times of technical developments and mass produced goods, the Schwabing Christmas Market in Munich, Germany strives to lift the focus to the individuality of arts and crafts.

FLYING HIGH, YET DOWN TO EARTH
This market has caught the imagination of its visitors for decades with a mix of artisans creating art and crafts. The magical atmosphere of the Christmas market with its many culinary delights give it an unmistakable flair.

In addition, visitors can also expect daily music shows, kids’ entertainment and various culinary delights—and all is free of charge.

MUNICH’S FINEST ARTISTS MARKET
More than 100 artists from all over Germany create a place where one can relax and enjoy this unique atmosphere. The concept has been one of an artist’s market from the very beginning. An unmistakable flair can be found here with the high level of artistic talent and craftsmanship. This is further underlined by the quality of the daily cultural programming and fine foods, as well as concerts and various events.

IDEA WAS BORN
In the early 1970’s a number of artists who exhibited during the summer on the “Art Mile” on Leopold Street in Munich began to show their work at the former Swiss House prior to Christmas. In 1975 the idea of an artist’s market, with stalls and events, was born. With the backing of the local council, the Schwabing Chistmas Market was founded. A jury is responsible for choosing the work shown, as well as finding new exhibitors. This ensures that all exhibited work comes from the studios and workshops of the artists.

For more info, go to www.schwabingerweihnachtsmarkt.de/en/info/info.html

Steigenberger’s Parkhotel: This Hotel Enjoys 114 Years of Fame and Fortune

By Don Heimburger
Photos by the author

Steigenberger’s elegant five-star Parkhotel in Dusseldorf, Germany—located adjunct to a park—is an oasis in the middle of a popular shopping complex and entertainment strip of the Königsallee.

The prestigious hotel has just completed a multi-million dollar renovation of its entire first floor, kitchen area and more than 90 rooms and suites.

STROLL ALONG THE RIVER
The hotel is located at the heart of a number of cultural and entertainment venues which are easily walkable, such as the Opera House, the Old Town, and the Rhine River is just a 10 minute walk away. There you can stroll along the river, regarded as one of the most beautiful of esplanades. Planned by Niklaus Fritschi and built between 1990 and 1997, it “joins” the city to its river. It symbolizes Düsseldorfers’ Rhenish joie-de-vivre and particularly in summer is an expression of the city’s Mediterranean lifestyle.

The Rhine embankment promenade links the traditional Altstad (Old Town) to the modern MedienHafen and is lined by cafés and bars. Thus the Steigenberger Hotel enjoys a prominent position in the life of the city which guests can take full advantage of.

The hotel’s lobby is large and welcoming, with a large vase of eye-catching flowers, a glittering chandelier in the middle, colorful contemporary paintings on the walls and rich wood registration desks, backed on the walls by more rich wood panels. I immediately felt at home in this place, especially with the attentive, personable staff.

The Parkhotel’s 130 rooms, all with high ceilings, are comprised of superior single rooms, deluxe double rooms, grand deluxe rooms and deluxe suites, all neat as a pin, roomy and comfortable. Rooms feature a flat screen television, work desk, air conditioning and access to the spa. Larger rooms include even more amenities. In addition, the rooms are quiet and feature reading lamps on each side of the bed.

HOTEL IS CENTRALLY LOCATED
Rooms feature a flat screen television, work desk, air conditioning and access to the sauna and fitness area. The Hauptbahnhof is a few blocks away and guests can easily get there by cab from the hotel. The Dusseldorf trade fair building is about four miles away.

The hotel features six modular function rooms for meetings and conferences with air conditioning and state-of-the art facilities to enable users to make the most of modern multimedia.

Etoile Bar
From mid-April the exclusive summer terrace of the hotel offers a chance to enjoy meals or drinks al fresco. Indoors, the dark wood-paneled Etoile Bar, where piano music can be enjoyed, is a good spot to sit a spell. There is also the Steigenberger Eck Lounge, a bistro and bar where one can have Champagne, tea or a drink, and seafood or other meal selections.

Artiste Restaurant

FINE DINING
At the fine dining restaurant Artiste, chef Christoph Kaiser provides a varied range of excellent foods and fine table wines. A super appetizer of Colby fish topped with avocado cream was followed by a thick, juicy steak, creamed white asparagus and delicious small potatoes. My wife had the asparagus and new boiled potatoes, but with a delicate, flaky salmon as the main dish. All vegetables are locally grown and personally selected by the chef.

The crème brûlée for dessert, as well as the citrus sponge cake garnished with colorful fruit was the perfect ending to a memorable dinner. The service was impeccable. Another hotel restaurant, the Menuett, is also available for breakfast and special events.

HISTORICAL, STUNNING BUILDING
From the outside, the first impression of this hotel is of a magnificent, stunning building, in classical German architectural style. It’s history goes back a long way.

HISTORY
The hotel opened in 1902 in conjunction with the industry, trade and art exhibition in Düsseldorf. Soon after it opened aristocracy, famous industrialists and the traveling pubic frequented the hotel. As an example, in 1908 Crown Prince Wilhelm of Prussia and Crown Princess Cecilie visited there.

(left) In 1908, Crown Prince Wilhelm and Crown Princess Cecelie visited the hotel.

From 1936 to 1937 the hotel was reconditioned and modernized but was substantially damaged in 1944 during WWII air attacks, with the upper floors destroyed by fire. Between 1945 and 1951 the Steigenberger hotel was taken over by American and later British occupying forces. Later it served as the Mannesmann AG administrative building until 1953.

Today, English carpets and both modern and antique furniture evoke a synthesis of functionality and noble ambience in the hotel. The elegant interior was designed by architect Bergit Countess of Douglas. The valuable high class furniture imitates the style popular in 18th century’s France ruled by Louis XVI, evoking a sense of comfort and security through its warm wood colors and wooden materials.

In all, the Steigenberger Parkhotel is an island of calm in the midst of a bustling downtown city. Its interesting history and charm make it a prime Steigenberger property.

For more info, go to Steigenberger Hotels and Resorts or Steigenberger Parkhotel Duesseldorf.

Visit Berlin’s Museums

By Danielle Pruger
Photos courtesy Visit Berlin

Berlin, Germany’s capital, is the home to numerous impressive museums. With a section of Berlin dedicated to museums, Museum Island, as well as with museums around the rest of the city, it is easy to see the importance museums have on the cultural landscape of Berlin. The list of museums keeps growing as new ones continue to open and others re-open after renovations.

TSHOBAN FOUNDATION – MUSEUM FOR ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS
Open since 2013 at the former Pfefferberg Brewery complex, the private Museum for Architectural Drawings houses the renowned Tchoban Foundation’s collection, as well as temporary exhibits from leading international cultural institutions. Conceived by Berlin- and Moscow-based architect Sergei Tchoban, the museum presents three changing exhibitions annually. The architecturally striking building extends from a fire-wall, seemingly latching onto a row of typical Berlin houses. Evoking the image of a set of oversized piled blocks, the four story building’s silhouette is defined by a regression and progression of a colored concrete and glass facade. Open daily, admission is approximately $5.

MAGICUM – BERLIN MAGIC MUSEUM
Witchcraft and magical powers, mythical knowledge, secrets, the supernatural and ancient wisdom can be explored in the cellars of a historic former blacksmith building close to Berlin’s Hackesche Market. Open since summer 2014, Berlin’s Magic Museum features some 450 exhibits displayed over 6,500 square feet. Included are ritualistic objects and magic devices ranging from a Dutch witches scale and torture instruments to African totem masks, crystal balls and a historic Samurai sword. Curated to be more entertaining rather than strictly academic, the spellbinding exhibition encourages intuitive exploration. Open daily, admission is approximately $8.

KUNSTHAUS DAHLEM TO OPEN SUMMER 2015
Following extensive renovations, the Kunsthaus Dahlem will open in the summer of 2015 as an exhibition venue for Postwar German Modernism from East and West Germany (1945-61). The opening exhibition will focus primarily on sculptural works, complemented by paintings, graphics and photography. The historic building was constructed between 1939 and 1942 as a studio for infamous sculptor Arno Breker, who, alongside Josef Thorak, was one of the popular sculptors of the Third Reich, producing ornamental sculptures for Albert Speer’s monumental constructions. In addition to a café and a museum shop, there will also be a permanent exhibition on the building’s eventful past. Free admission.

BERLIN SPY MUSEUM
Espionage has been the subject of many movies and books set in Berlin. Now the city is finally getting a museum that focuses on the mysteries of agents, double agents, betrayals, heroes and their stories, as well as the tools they used. The Berlin Spy Museum will feature approximately 21,500 square feet of exhibition space. One of the more well-known pieces on display will be the famous German coding machine “Enigma” from World War II, which was used for enciphering and deciphering secret messages. The exhibition will unveil the mysteries of intelligence services and espionage in the East and the West with a focus on Berlin during WWII and the Cold War. The interactive exhibits cater to all age groups, including children. www.deutsches-spionagemuseum.de/

MUSEUM OF DECORATIVE ARTS OPEN AGAIN AT KULTURFORUM
After three years of renovations, Germany’s oldest museum of decorative arts, the Kunstgewerbemuseum Berlin, reopened in November 2014 with a new gallery dedicated to the history of fashion. Located at Berlin’s Kulturforum museum complex, the new permanent exhibition of dresses, hats, bags, gloves and accessories from the 18th to the 21st century is based on an international collection acquired by the museum in 2009. Since its re-opening, the Kunstgewerbemuseum has been providing an overview of the key achievements in European design, from the Middle Ages to the present day. In addition to the Fashion Gallery, the museum features new departments of Design and Jugendstil/Art Deco.

BERLINISCHE GALLERY REOPENS MAY 2015
After a year-long modernization, the Berlinische Gallery is scheduled to reopen on May 28, 2015. The gallery’s permanent exhibition focuses exclusively on art in Berlin from 1880-1980, ranging from late 19th century paintings, to Expressionism and the East European avant-garde, to post-war modern architecture and the “wild” works of the 1970s. Reflecting the interdisciplinary nature of the collection, the exhibition will illustrate a diversity of artistic styles and credos, but also tensions, polarization and fresh departures, which remain hallmarks of Berlin as an artistic hub. Two other temporary exhibitions are opening on May 25, 2015: Radically Modern, which focuses on building styles in the 1960s and an exhibition on contemporary German painter Bernhard Martin. A retrospective on Max Beckmann and Berlin will open November 20, 2015 and is poised to be a major highlight of Berlin’s cultural winter for 2015/2016.

For more info, go to www.visitberlin.de/en