The NH Collection Amistad Cordoba, a splendid hotel within easy walking distance of historical landmarks, ensures delightful dining and pleasant dreams
By Randy Mink
Ensconced in the picturesque Jewish Quarter, the four-star NH Collection Amistad Cordoba made the perfect base camp for my explorations of Cordoba’s sprawling old town, the highlight of my recent travels in the south of Spain.
As soon as I passed through the lobby and walked out the door, there I was—in the quiet Plaza Maimonides, ready to prowl the cobbled lanes threading the city’s historic center, a maze of whitewashed buildings dating as far back as the Middle Ages. The Bullfighting Museum, housed in two old palaces, holds court across the way. A short stroll leads to the Mezquita, or Mosque-Cathedral, the greatest legacy of the city’s Muslim past.
Occupying a pair of 17th and 18th century mansions, the 108-room NH Collection Amistad Cordoba has two outdoor courtyards, one of them with an Arab star-shaped swimming pool. Islamic ornamental and architectural touches grace other public areas as well. (At the time of writing, the larger courtyard was closed for renovation.)
The property offers a variety of guest room categories, including rooms with private patio. My French balcony looked out on remains of a wall that separated the Jewish Quarter from the rest of the city. Other rooms overlook the courtyards or Plaza Maimonides.
My third-floor nest had all the amenities you’d expect from an upscale hotel—refrigerated mini-bar, coffee machine, magnifying make-up mirror, robe and slippers, and turndown service with chocolate. I especially liked the walk-in rainfall shower.
Savoring Regional Specialties in the Hotel Restaurant At one lunch in the restaurant, our group feasted on the five-course Cordoba tasting menu, which featured typical local specialties. We all loved the salmorejo, a cold tomato soup thickened with bread and topped with bits of hard-boiled egg and ham. After a salad and creamy oxtail croquettes, the main course was flamenquín, a fried roll of sliced pork and ham with cheese and red peppers. We finished with pastel cordobés, a sweet, squash-filled pastry. The price was 37 euros per person, two drinks included.
Photos by Randy Mink. The restaurant’s menu features typical local specialties, including salmorejo, a cold tomato soup thickened with bread and topped with bits of hard-boiled egg and ham.
The NH Collection’s cultural/gastronomic package in Cordoba is part of the brand’s Spain Designed for Feeling program of special experiences. (www.spaindesignedforfeeling.com/categoria/lifestyle). The plan includes both the tasting menu and a guided four-hour tour visiting the Mezquita, Jewish Quarter and Viana Palace.
The hotel’s lavish breakfast buffet offered salmorejo (a morning treat for one group member who couldn’t get enough of it) along with a bounty of meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, juices and baked goods. As a sweet tooth, I went for the chocolate tart wedges and sugar-dusted squares of pastel cordobés.
A concierge in the lobby assists travelers with making the most of their Cordoba stay, and the front desk gives out a detailed list of museums and other attractions with opening hours and admission prices.
NH Collection Hotels & Resorts is the high-end brand of Minor Hotels, which has lodgings across six continents. I had not been aware of the chain, but after stays in Cordoba and at Madrid’s NH Collection Palacio de Tepa days before, I am now a big fan.
Photos of courtyard, guest room (Superior category), and lobby, courtesy of NH Collection Hotels & Resorts.
For more information on NH Collection Hotels & Resorts, log on to www.nhcollection.com.
Even a 45-minute lecture can prepare you for the sights and scenes of Germany
Story and photos by Sharon Hudgins
Cruise Lecture Teaches History, Culture If you watch Masterpiece and other programs on public television in America, you’re probably familiar with the phrase, “Viking. Proud sponsor of…”—accompanied by images from Viking’s “longboat” cruises on the Rhine, Mosel, and Danube rivers in Europe. Other times you see wanderlust-invoking scenes from Viking’s ocean-going fleet, which sails the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the Baltic and Mediterranean seas, and beyond, encircling the globe. And occasionally you’ll see the two new Viking polar-class expedition ships, the “Octantis” and “Polaris,” that sail to Antarctica in the Southern Hemisphere and the Great Lakes in the Northern Hemisphere.
Since 2017 I’ve had the pleasure of being a guest speaker on Viking Ocean Cruises in Europe, giving lectures on historical, cultural, and culinary topics aboard ships sailing from Viking’s home port in Bergen, Norway, to most of the countries bordering on the Baltic Sea.
The “Viking Sea” ship docked at a Baltic port.
That itinerary follows the routes of the Hanseatic League, the medieval trading confederation that linked the countries of England, northern Europe, and Russia, and also the routes of the earlier, historical Vikings, who plied the waters of the Baltic, too.
Viking prides itself on focusing on the history and cultures of every country on its itineraries. So the cruise director on each ship schedules lectures about those destinations one or two days before the ship arrives in a port, to prepare passengers for the sights, sounds, and tastes of each new country they visit.
While the cruise ship guests are away during the day on shore excursions to a variety of places in those countries, the ship’s staff refills the vessel’s fuel tanks, cleans the guest rooms and public spaces, restocks food supplies, and prepares meals for hungry passengers when they come back on board. The singers, dancers, and musicians also use that time to rehearse their next shows on stage.
Cultural Stereotypes and Truths So what does that have to do with Germany? Many cruise lines sailing in the Baltic dock at the busy German port of Warnemünde. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Warnemünde and the surrounding area, as a guest speaker on Viking, National Geographic-Lindblad, and Oceania cruises, as well as on press trips for journalists gathering new material for articles to write. But only on Viking cruises have I had the opportunity to present a 45-minute illustrated lecture about that entire country of Germany, a nation I often think of as “my second home.”
I begin with a short introduction telling how long I lived in Germany (15 years) and what I was doing there (teaching for the University of Maryland’s education programs at U.S. military bases, writing for the Stars and Stripes newspaper). I also mention that for 28 years I was a writer for German Life magazine in America, too. Then I launch into my lecture: “Germany: Land of Laptops and Lederhosen.”
A lecture on “all-of-Germany” in 45 minutes? How is that possible? Not easy without being superficial, I assure you. And that’s exactly how I begin my lecture, showing pictures of the stereotypes that many people have about Germany: Men in Lederhosen. Women wearing Dirndls. Oompah bands and choral groups clothed in traditional Trachten, too. Half-timbered houses and fairy-tale castles. Foaming mugs of beer. Strings of sausages. Pretzels!
Then I point out that stereotypes often contain a grain of truth. But they’re only one part of a many-faceted story (or country), factors that exist side-by-side with all of them being true simultaneously.
Modern Germany – Regions and Festivals So I segue easily into modern Germany: High-speed highways. High-speed trains. High-tech industries. High fashion. Avant-garde art and architecture. Michelin-starred restaurants and Turkish döner kebab stands. And all those oh-so-wonderful German breads and pastries!
There’s no way anyone could condense centuries of German history into such a lecture. So I focus on Germany today, starting with Berlin and the country’s government (with a nod to the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall), and an overview of Germany’s population, literacy rate, national health insurance program, religions, and economy. The rest of my presentation is about the characteristics of its four main regions, from North to South, East to West, including those regions’ differing landscapes, architecture, industries, and cuisines. Then I conclude with—what else?—Oktoberfest! That world-renowned German beer festival brings me full circle back to the beginning of my lecture: The coexistence of stereotypes and deeper, often contrasting, realities in Germany today, a land of computers and cowbells indeed.
Viking Ships and Excursions Viking’s ocean vessels carry 960 guests, plus a large, well-trained crew. While in port, most of the passengers head off on shore excursions, and even some of the ship’s employees have a few hours of shore leave, too. When the ship is docked in Warnemünde, Viking offers half-day and full-day excursions to several locations in northern Germany: the Hanseatic cities of Rostok, Lübeck, and Wismar; a classic 19th-century spa town reached by steam train; the magnificent castle in Schwerin; the grim concentration camp at Sachsenhausen.
But the most popular destination is Berlin—six hours round-trip by special train, plus six hours of touring various parts of the city and its historical sites, by chartered buses and on foot with knowledgeable guides, or just exploring Berlin on your own. One excursion even includes lunch at the Reichstag, along with a special tour of that iconic building so important in Germany’s history.
Clockwise from left: The German Reichstag in Berlin, as seen from the Spree River. The modernistic Marie-Elizabeth-Lueders-Haus government building near the Reichstag in Berlin. The facades of many Berlin buildings are best viewed from a boat ride on the Spree River.
On my first Baltic cruise with Viking, the only time available for my Germany lecture was at 9 p.m. on the night before we docked at Warnemünde. Since half the 960 guests on that ship had signed up for the 12-hour shore excursions to Berlin the next day—and since they all had to get up at 5 a.m. to board the train at 6 that morning—I expected only a few people to attend my lecture that night. After all, passengers could always watch a video of it on television in their own cabins, any time later during the cruise. So I was surprised when half the ship showed up for that introduction-to-Germany lecture, filling the lecture hall.
The next evening we all returned from Berlin, tired but happy, after a full day of riding the rails through the German countryside, visiting one of the world’s great capital cities, and learning so much about Berlin’s special place in history. But another treat awaited us back in Warnemünde. A red carpet led from the cruise ship terminal across the pier to the ship’s gangway. Lined up along the sides were the ship’s officers and staff, from the captain to the cabin cleaners. At the terminal each guest was handed a glass of sparkling wine, which we all tried to balance in one hand while dancing along the red carpet to lively music, with many of the crew joining in, as we made our way back to the ship.
Top: One of the modernistic fountains in Rostock, a shore excursion destination on Viking Baltic cruises. Lower left: Street musician in Rostock, one of the cities on shore excursions from Viking ships docked at Warnemünde, Germany, on Baltic cruises. Middle and lower right: The colorful Alter Strom inner harbor at Warnemünde is always filled with small fishing boats and sightseeing boats.
German Culinary Delights on Deck Dinners on board that evening featured traditional German specialties, from Sauerbraten to Schnitzel, Black Forest Cherry Cake to Bavarian Cream. And of course plenty of German beers and wines, too! As we sailed away from Warnemünde, the only regret for me was leaving a country where I have such deep roots. But we still had five other Baltic countries to visit on that cruise, so who was I to complain about new adventures awaiting the next day? And there was always the prospect of another cruise, or even a different kind of job, bringing me back to Germany in the future.
One of the greatest rewards of working on tours in Germany has been introducing other people to such a fascinating country. Nothing compares with the feeling I get when a member of our tour group comes up to me and says, “Thank you for your lecture about Germany. Because of you, I saw the country with different eyes when we were there.”
Left: One of the many pretty villas overlooking the waterfront at Warnemünde. Right: Sand sculpture at the cruise ship dock in Warnemünde.
Sharon Hudgins is a professional writer and a lecturer on educational tours to Europe, Alaska, and North Asia. See more at www.sharonhudgins.com
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Northern Italy island cuisine and fishing boats follow tradition
Literally translated to “Mount Island,” the beautiful village of Monte Isola, Italy, rises from the middle of Lake Iseo in the Brescia province in Lombardy. Monte Isola comprises three islands, the principal being Montisola—the largest inhabited lake island in Europe—reachable only by boat (ferries run approximately every 20 minutes during the day). Beneath the glittering cobalt water swims the sea life that, for years, inhabitants relied on for sustenance and livelihood. Montisola’s main industry is now tourism, but in the past, it was fishing.
Montisola island in Lake Iseo is lined with docks and fishing boats.
Fishing boats and islands dot Lake Iseo in the Brescia region of Italy.
Unique Wooden Fishing Boats
Shipbuilding yards focused heavily on making a typical style of fishing boat called the Naèt—long and narrow wooden boats, similar in style to the famous Venetian gondolas. Islanders depended on these light and agile boats for fast transportation to the mainland as well as for successful fishing. Naèts are difficult to construct and require great skill to make, with builders using an ax, hammer, chisel, and plane to cut and shape chestnut wood for the frame and durable larch wood for the remainder of the body.
The original flat 4.5-foot-wide boats were almost 23 feet long, with sails attached to two intercrossed chestnut wood poles—about 11.5 feet and 13 feet each. Around 1958, builders began removing the sails and adding engines to these boats, which shortened the boat length by about two feet. At the very center depth of the hull, the width remains only 80 cm. Every village uses its own color for their Naèts, so a quick glance at the docks identifies where each boat originated.
The only remaining shipbuilding yard on the island is Cantiere Nautico Ercole Archetti, and this craftsmanship-focused family company has trained five generations of carpenters to reach shipbuilding expertise. Building unique wooden boats since 1600, the team now uses cutting-edge technology but still makes their products entirely by hand, using carefully selected marine wood and employing highly qualified Master Shipwrights. Maintenance, storage, and rental are other offerings from Ercole Archetti Shipyards.
Paolo Archetti, owner of local net manufacturing company Bresciareti, said that nuns used to own property on the island and wanted to be paid for the land they lent out. Renters with limited cash began to pay the nuns in fish instead of funds—children loaded the special two-ended wooden needle with thread and women handwove the nets men used for fishing. Because fishing was most productive during the warm months of April, May, and June, islanders learned how to preserve their catches, drying the fish and conserving them in oil for later payment.
Top left: The color of a Naèt indicates from which village the boat originated. Top right: The Bresciareti storefront sells handwoven net accessories and the company fulfills large orders of machine-created nets for sports, construction, and aviary control. Bottom (photo courtesy of Michele Turla): Peschiera Maraglio port has always been a hotspot for boat parking.
Island Cuisine Includes Preserved Sardines
The pretty, pink-embellished Church of St. John the Baptist in Carzano, a small lakeside settlement on Montisola, is also known to locals as “St. John of the Sardines.” Independent tour guide Elena Confortini explained that on June 24 residents historically celebrated St. John’s feast day. On this day, which fell during the final seasonal period when sardines came closest to the shore and there was an abundance of fish, the church used to cook sardines in its front square and serve them freely. Although locally referred to as “sardines,” these fish are actually a species of freshwater twaite shad (Alosa fallax locustris) but are called sardèna in Italian because their appearance is similar to true sardines.
Left (photo courtesy of Michele Turla): Fishing was the primary industry in historical Monte Isola. Right: Dried, salted, and preserved sardines on polenta are a traditional treat served by Sensole Locanda Contemporanea restaurant.
For centuries now, island cuisine has included dried, salted, and preserved fish—characteristically sardines, perch, and the common European whitefish (known in Italian as coregone). These fish, cured with salt and dried in the sun for 24 hours, are then washed and strung up in parallel lines dangling from hooks or tacked upon arches of ash branches secured with thread on both ends. After sunning outdoors in the heat for 5-10 days, the fish are removed into iron containers and pressed in olive oil. Several months in this state turns sardines a golden color, and they can then be seasoned simply with garlic, parsley, and oil, and grilled quickly over a hot fire. The surname “Archetti” is one of the more common names on Montisola. Translating to “little bows,” this name is derived from the bowed wooden frames erected all over the island for fish-drying.
Monte Isola fish-preservation techniques from the past are still used today across the island, and garden art pieces imitating fish-drying frames decorate the lakeside. (Black-and-white photo courtesy of Michele Turla)
Only two eateries on the island currently serve sardines, one of which is Sensole Locanda Contemporanea. This charming, yellow-walled lakeside restaurant sits directly down the rocky hillside below Martinengo Fortress, a privately owned castle with a recognizable circular lookout tower. Young restaurant owner, Giovanni Lo Bresti, expertly serves traditional dishes using locally grown products, with each course gorgeously plated. Try the intensely flavorful dried sardines (use fingers, not utensils, to eat it the authentic way!) alongside tasty bars of fried polenta. Enjoy Monte Isola smoked salami, grilled dry coregone fish, fried pike balls, homemade bread, butter sprinkled with perch bottarga (salted, cured fish roe), and spiced salami ragout with bread gnocchi.
The upper outdoor deck of Sensole Locanda Contemporanea restaurant overlooks beautiful Lake Iseo, while the lower outdoor patio invites guests from the pedestrian walk.
Montisola Olive Oil and Franciacorta Wine
At Sensole restaurant, diners can also try the deliciously light local extra virgin olive oil labeled “l’isola dell’olio” (translation: “island of the oil”). One olive grove of just nine trees produced 50 bottles of this particular oil in 2025, the last bottle of which was down to the last drops in late September.
The whole of Monte Isola contains approximately 15,000 olive trees of several varieties, with groves planted on steep terraces to match the upward sloping terrain. Although difficult to harvest mountainside, the olives produced are of high quality and thrive in the unique lake island microclimate. Montisola’s restaurants prepare homegrown products with local oil and pair dishes with DOC “controlled designation of origin” wines from the region, such as Caruna 100% Chardonnay Brut from the Franciacorta region’s vineyards (served only in the Franciacorta-specific tulip-shaped glasses that stimulate bubble longevity).
Tasty local olive oil and flavorful, high-quality wines from the Franciacorta wine-growing region round out a relaxing and delicious meal provided by owner, Giovanni Lo Bresti, at Sensole Locanda Contemporanea.
All along the lakeside, pedestrians and bikers move down the winding path that separates glimmering water from flowering bushes and trees heavy with ripe fruit. Beside this promenade, sunbathers bask in golden rays and swimmers leap into the cool water to paddle amongst ducks and swans.
Here you can feel like you’ve stepped back into bygone times, commune with untouched nature, and enjoy an unhurried and uncrowded getaway. Wander the path to see garden art structures made of metal and wooden fish—imitating the ancient practice of drying the catch-of-the-day on arched racks—and peruse shops and cafes that use sardine and net décor to echo the fishing culture that sustained Monte Isola for so long.
HOW TO GET THERE… ✈️ Fly NEOS Air from JFK airport in New York to Milan, Italy, and then travel by train or car to Sulzano, on the eastern shore of Lake Iseo. Then, take the 5-minute ferry ride from mainland Sulzano to Peschiera Maraglio on Monte Isola. Visit neosair.com/it for flights and schedules. Tip: If you follow NEOS Air on social media, you can often score flight discounts and coupons to use toward airfare.
WHERE TO STAY… 🛏️ For a day trip to Monte Isola, stay at the romantic and rich-with-history Cappuccini Resort (Via Cappuccini, 54, 25033 Cologne BS, Italy), a 30-minute drive from the Sulzano ferry dock. This charming monastery-turned-resort is beautiful, clean, peaceful, and tastefully furnished with a blend of vintage relics and modern décor. A separate building with yoga, sauna, steam cave, and bubbling grotto spa with fountains and sun-heated waters provides numerous relaxation opportunities. Wander the sprawling hillside grounds to visit the outdoor pool and explore blooming rose gardens and fruit orchards. For more information, please visit cappuccini.it/en.
BEFORE YOU GO… 💻 Navigate to italia.it and visitbrescia.it/en/ to discover events and experiences offered within the fascinating Brescia province. Bicycle tours, food and wine festivals, thermal springs, art museums, castles, Roman archeological ruins—round out your trip with a little of each.
Nürnberg, Germany, is full of rich medieval history, with plenty of myths and mystery. The largest city in the northern region of Bavaria, often referred to as the unofficial capital of Franconia, Nürnberg displays a unique Franconian identity in terms of its culture, architecture, cuisine, and historical political structures. Explore all angles and layers of the city to learn more about what makes Nürnberg unique.
Nürnberg is easily entered through the Frauentorturm, directly across from the city’s main train station.
Enter the city through the base of the Frauentorturm (Women’s Gate Tower), and you’ll immediately find the first attraction in the initial interior lining. Craftsmen’s Courtyard is a collection of cottage industries behind the thick city wall, where small half-timbered workshops are labeled with antique signs and ornate metal fittings. Craftworkers here create pottery, glassware, candles, jewelry, leatherwork, and wooden wares. These traditional and unique gifts handmade by local artisans include leather bracelets, wallets, belts; carved wooden animals, toys, keychains, hand-carved pens, cutting boards, and kitchen utensils. Set amongst colorful flowering plants and bright-potted greenery, cafes and restaurants in this idyllic city segment serve tasty snacks, cakes, and invigorating coffee drinks.
Handcrafted gifts and homemade treats await in the Craftsmen’s Courtyard.
The Old Town’s Hauptmarkt (main market square) holds the famous Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), an intricate 14th century 62-foot-high Gothic structure encircled by a metal railing. Forty stone figures on four of the piece’s many tiers represent the world’s varied beliefs and philosophical ideas about the Holy Roman Empire during the medieval period—in the form of church and secular leaders, evangelists, prophets, philosophers, and biblical characters. Set within the intricate railing design is a small golden ring, and legend dictates that turning this shiny brass ring three times fulfills wishes and brings good luck.
Turn the Beautiful Fountain’s brass ring three times to make your wish come true!
Right here in the main market square is where the wintertime Christkindlesmarkt Christmas market is held, but during springtime, you can find a festive Easter market in its place. Shop for leather goods, wooden crafts, embroidered linens, woven socks, wine, spring home décor, pottery, and plush toys. Try the made-on-site fried dough with powdered sugar Küchle (little cake), sugared roasted nuts, and gingerbread cookies. Of course, if you’re missing the Christkindlesmarkt, stop into the Käthe Wohlfahrt specialty shop in town to stock up on Erzgebirge handmade Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, ornaments, and toys.
The main square houses winter and spring markets filled with handcrafted wares and tasty snacks.
Nürnberg provides many restaurant options for a delicious, full sit-down meal. Zum Gulden Stern is the city’s oldest existing historical bratwurst kitchen—and the oldest in the world—dating back to 1419. Here, the famous, original Nürnberg sausages (branded as the Original Nürnberger Röstla®) are grilled over a beechwood fire in a building built around 1380. The sausages are prepared with traditional spices like mace (a sister spice to nutmeg), marjoram, salt, and pepper, by the family-run Pfettner butcher shop in Nürnberg. The characteristic smoke and aroma of beechwood infuse this delicacy with unique flavor. The sausages served at Zum Gulden Stern are never boiled or pre-fried; instead, they are placed on the grill white and raw, cooked for about 7 minutes, and then removed once the tops and bottoms are evenly browned and crispy. (Consider also visiting the Nürnberg Bratwurst Museum, which presents the myths and legends surrounding these small 7-9cm sausages the town is known for.)
Zum Gulden Stern is a historic restaurant that serves the city’s famous mini sausages.
Barrel-fermented sauerkraut grown by the Wehr family in the Aischgrund region is cooked and seasoned at Zum Gulden Stern with fresh pork lard. The vegetables, horseradish, and wines served at the restaurant are all sourced from family-owned businesses in the region, and the dishes are substantial and savory. This tavern survived all the wars, likely hosted famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer, and still serves up delicious daily-prepared meat-and-vegetable soups and famous sausages. In addition to the interesting antique wall art, the colorful wooden ceiling is patched with old brightly painted cupboard panels, to cover holes made where weighty drunken guests from older days had fallen through from the upper level.
Step into history while dining at Zum Gulden Stern, where famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer is said to have frequented.
Adina Apartment Hotel, about a 12-minute walk from the main train station, in the heart of the city, is a comfortable, clean, and convenient place to overnight in Nürnberg. The spacious studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments have fully equipped kitchens, cozy linens, and vegan personal care products, and the hotel is upscale but relaxed and inviting. Friendly, efficient, and attentive staff, and fast and accommodating room service make this an exceptional lodging choice. Breakfast in the downstairs dining area is varied and colorful, with many tasty options to help kick-start your day—fresh juices, lattes, meat and cheese platters, vegetables, cereals, dried and fresh fruits, fish filet cakes, pancakes and rolls, sweet breads, jams, eggs, and hot breakfast meat dishes (including the city’s famous sausages). After a day exploring the town, the lap pool and sauna area provide just enough space for a refreshing evening swim and relaxation in the dry heat.
Adina Apartment Hotel is a cozy place to lodge, with activities for guests of all ages.
Be sure to buy a Nürnberg Card online or at one of several Tourist Information stands, to receive a variety of free admissions and discounts. The Nürnberg Card allows you 48 hours of free access to almost all the city museums and attractions as well as free public transportation.
A three-minute walk down the street from the Adina Apartment Hotel takes you to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum), the largest cultural history museum in the German-speaking countries. Here, you can explore five exhibition areas on three levels of the museum—artifacts from the Old Stone Age to the Middle Ages, collections from Renaissance to Enlightenment, and 20th Century masterpieces—there are multitudes of treasures to examine. The armor and hunting exhibition is especially expansive, with case after case of intricate weaponry. You’ll also find an impressive array of musical instruments, jewelry, sleighs, sculptures, and paintings.
The German National Museum exhibits magnificent artifacts from all eras.
A separate building houses the toys portion of the museum—a showcase of detailed dollhouses, dolls, tin cars and armies, optical toys, and miniature railroads. Many of the elaborate 17th century dollhouses exhibited here were thought to be commissioned by Nürnberg’s wealthy merchants and patricians. For young people, the houses functioned as a visual representation of ideal households and a clear display of tasks and activities to be performed in each of the rooms. For example, dollhouse sitting rooms were often decorated with tea service, chess boards, and decks of cards, while kitchen layouts included hearth-cleaning tools, cake molds, soup ladles, and copper pots. Similarly, 18th– to 20th-century toys conveyed educational objectives relating to children’s future familial and career lives. Playing with dolls helped girls prepare for their roles as patient, gentle mothers. Boys’ toys were often linked to their potential future working lives—tin soldiers encouraged strategic thought and tactical warfare, wooden building blocks taught spatial reasoning and construction design, and other technical toys fostered special interests and skills.
Antique toys at the German National Museum give a glimpse into historic playtime and its echoes of everyday life.
Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) Nürnberg is another toy museum that displays games and playthings of all sorts—dolls, metal soldiers, puppets, teddy bears, model railroads, tin vehicles, and Playmobil figures, as well as vintage and newer iconic characters like Paddington Bear, ALF, and Garfield. Visit this museum for a bit of history and some interactive play time with toys and family games in the upstairs playroom.
Spielzeugmuseum Nürnberg displays old and new toys alike, with areas for interactive play and a building and board game zone.
Stop by Die Wirtschaft restaurant for Brotzeit (bread time), Veschber (midday snack), or Gudzerla (Franconian tapas) to nosh on a savory selection of sourdough or oven-crusted bread, marinated cheeses and sausages, pickled vegetables, and herbs. The warm and crispy Apfelküchle (specifically, fried apple rings in beer batter with homemade ice cream and plum compote) will revive you for the rest of your city exploration. For another delicious snack or dessert option, Restaurant Trödelstuben serves up hot raspberries and raspberry sauce over vanilla ice cream. If you’d like a break from traditional German food, try the KOKONO Pan-Asian Cuisine & Sushi Bar on Luitpoldstraße. Expect fresh food, seasonal flowers on all tables, and a fun presentation of dry ice mist at your table while you eat your edamame and sushi rolls.
Nürnberg culinary variety abounds, with traditional German cuisine and desserts as well as delicious Asian delicacies.
Not all the city’s most interesting sights can be found at ground level. Claudia Radtke, certified Nürnberg city guide, provides guided tours of Nürnberg’s fascinating underground worlds. Those interested in history, fortification, and ancient legal systems (and those aged 10 years and older) will enjoy the intriguing and informative tours entitled “Tunnels and Secret Passages in the City Wall” and “Medieval Dungeons.” The 14th century dungeons in vaulted rock-cut cellars beneath the city hall contain prison cells, torture chambers, the jailer’s house, a prison kitchen, and a blacksmith’s workshop. Walk through underground corridors with damp limestone walls (use the railings and watch your step), learn about those who walked there before you, and explore the city’s ancient approaches to maintaining peace, organization, and stability.
Explore beneath the city, with exciting tours of dungeons and underground passageways.
Underneath the Imperial Castle, a network of defensive passageways wind about, with casemates and embrasures from which weapons could be fired into all angles of the moat. Interestingly, the humid tunnels were not conducive to weapon storage, so weapons were stored aboveground and brought down via a ramp during combat periods. The quarry-stone underground walls are eroded and colorful, shaped and stained from sour rain dripping through.
Don’t forget to climb up and appreciate sights from the very top of the Imperial Castle—views down into the moat and stone walkways meandering through flowering trees beneath cloud-speckled blue skies. Wealthy, strategically built, well-invested in defense, and never captured (or attacked, for that matter), Nürnberg was one of the Holy Roman Empire’s best-protected cities in Europe. The city’s history of wealth and peace is attributed to its involvement in trade, due to solving issues diplomatically and with payment rather than through warfare.
The uphill climb to the Imperial Castle rewards you with beautiful views.
After peering down from the Imperial Castle, stop at the nearby Hausbrauerei Altstadthof, known for its brewed Rotbier (red beer) and oven-fresh Schäufele (roasted pork shoulder in red beer sauce with dumplings and sauerkraut). The snug tavern area with a “hidden gem” feel is a great hangout spot for groups and couples to have a homestyle Franconian meal and a few freshly tapped craft beers. Fill up on savory Nürnberger sausages, potato soup with crusty bread, Obazda specialty Bavarian cheese, spätzle (dumpling-like irregular-shaped egg noodles), red cabbage, goulash, and a wheat- and black-beer sponge cake “Beeramisu” dessert or Apfelküchle (this menu’s variation is drizzled with custard sauce and served with vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, and almond slices).
Hausbrauerei Altstadthof serves hearty meals and tasty beer in an inviting social environment.
Tour the Old Town and learn about the city’s history while riding the Mini Train, which departs from the Beautiful Fountain at the Main Market Square and takes you on an almost hour-long loop in and around thHausbrauerei Altstadthofe city while multi-language audio headsets announce historical landmarks and relay town stories. One legend tells of German robber Eppelein von Gailingen, who allegedly escaped execution by leaping off the castle and over the moat and city wall on his horse, leaving behind hoofprints on the roof. You’ll see the half-timbered historical building built in 1446 that once housed lepers for three days during Holy Week (to provide them medical attention, clothing, and food), then became a wine storage depot, and now functions as student housing. You’ll also spot the Hangman’s Bridge, a wooden footbridge over the Pegnitz River used solely by the Nürnberg hangman between the 16th and 19th century to travel between his secluded home on a small island in the Pegnitz into the city, as a Middle Ages rule forbade him from contact with “honorable citizens.”
The Mini Train ride provides a comprehensive city tour while revealing town lore.
Don’t forget to visit Nürnberg’s surrounding area outside the city walls. Nürnberg Zoo is about a 25-minute ride out of the city center via public transportation. Backed by sandstone cliffs, the exhibits of pacing lions, squeaking lemurs, playful polar bears, and around 300 different animal species (about 40 considered endangered) provide guests with plenty of animal entertainment. One of the largest zoos in Europe, the Nürnberg Zoo is built on approximately 160 acres that include woodlands of ancient trees, peaceful ponds, rocky formations, and sloping walkways. Its special “climate high forest trail” is built at the treetops and allows visitors to stroll and view the zoo from above. The zoo is designed in a natural, park-like arrangement that feels very relaxed and rural. Not only open-air–enclosured animals make this place their home, but water birds and forest animals are found in the wild in this “forest preserve”-like walking zoo. There are numerous play areas for children, including a fantastic large playground with zip lines, ropes courses, giant slides, and inset trampolines—appropriate even for older kids or spirited adults.
Restaurant Waldschänke within the zoo grounds is reached via a slightly uphill walk along beautiful pathways. Indoors or out in the beer garden you can order hearty meat entrees, kid-friendly food, salads, fish dishes, Mediterranean meals, revitalizing drinks, and an extensive selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Complete with audience-interactive Culinary Theater performances, colorful murals, amusing children’s books to borrow and peruse during your meal, and an opportunity to purchase plush animals, Restaurant Waldschänke is a welcoming eatery for families.
Restaurant Waldschänke in the Nürnberg Zoo is a convenient place to power up between wildlife exhibits.
By exploring inside and outside of Nürnberg’s city walls, high above the castle moat, and even below the streets, you can go beyond surface level to uncover fascinating history and experience this medieval town’s inimitable Franconian charm.
Wishing you had planned a getaway this past spring break? It’s not too early to start planning for next year, and to think big with a European adventure!
By Alison Ramsey
Stateside spring break destinations abound, but consider using that week of vacation time to explore three German-language European countries—Switzerland, Austria, and Germany—all easily reachable from each other by train. The Eurail Global Pass allows travelers to seamlessly cross country borders by rail using a single scannable QR code pass in the app. It’s a fantastic opportunity to maximize your time abroad and visit multiple countries all in one overseas trip.
Eurail train travel is scenic and comfortable, and the well-designed Eurail app makes it easy to view train schedules and plan your trip.
Time in the mountains is essential if you’re headed to the Alpine countries of Switzerland and Austria. Downhill skiing in the Alps can be exhilarating, great exercise, and a fun social activity—as proven by the millions of visitors to throng ski resorts like Davos Klosters in Switzerland and St. Anton am Arlberg in Austria each year. Both destinations are part of the Best of the Alps organization’s carefully curated collection of classic mountain resorts and offer excellent ski schools.
A 2.5-hour train ride from the Zürich Airport, the 13,000-inhabitant Alpine village of Davos is the highest city in Switzerland, at 5,147 feet above sea level. Its Ski School Davos, part of the Swiss Ski and Snowboard School, is the biggest and oldest ski school in the country. Students here can learn from patient, professional instructors, who focus on safety and ensure basic skills are mastered before introducing more difficult maneuvers or terrain. Experienced skiers have 157 miles of ski trails on 81 different slopes to explore over five separate ski areas, including the iconic Parsenn skiing and hiking area, famous for its wide pistes and long runs.
Private and group lessons are offered at Ski School Davos, with ski equipment rental available at Top Secret Ski & Snowboard Shop, directly across the street from Bolgen Plaza.
The Alps are inviting even to those not wearing skis. For a fun take on tobogganing, try sledging down the 2.2-mile Rinerhorn run in Davos. Take the ski lift to the top and pilot your wooden sledge down the steep and curving 33-bend slope—one of the most challenging sledging runs around—braking with knees bent and feet flat on the snow and changing direction by shifting weight and pulling the steering rope. It’s like high-speed Mario Kart in the mountains!
Rinerhorn has slopes for skiers and sledgers.
If you’re staying at the comfy mountain chalet Hotel Waldhuus in Davos, be sure to spend time in the large indoor pool and experience the Switzerland sauna lifestyle in their bio sauna, herbal sauna, or new Finnish sauna. Usually co-ed and textile-free, sauna visitors in Switzerland use towels simply for hygiene purposes—not as a cover-up, but to sit on so sweat doesn’t touch the wood. Sauna usage is linked to many health benefits and can lower blood pressure, improve cardiovascular health and circulation, reduce soreness after exercise, promote muscle recovery, stimulate immune system support, reduce stress, and eliminate toxins. A swim and sauna session after a full day of activity feels physically and mentally healing, especially in a clean and well-maintained facility.
Unwind in Hotel Waldhuus’ comfortable accommodations with terrific spa facilities, and try the delicious tiramisu and enormous fresh breakfast spread in the Waldhuus Restaurant.
For a taste of the Austrian Alps, a 3.5-hour train ride brings you to St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria, where you can make your home base the classy Hotel Schwarzer Adler. Here, white-glove dinner service offers perfectly flavored and artfully plated meat and vegan dishes, homemade comfort foods including butter Spätzle (egg noodle pasta), and delectable desserts like “chocolate 5 ways,” with Austrian wines for pairing. You can swim in the outdoor sky pool under the pure mountain air or unwind indoors in the relaxation room, saunas, or sparkling indoor pool. Treat yourself to a spa package from the massage menu or simply sip an espresso on your hotel room balcony with a view of snowy peaks and a soundtrack of church bells and birdsong.
The Schwarzer Adler Hotel provides luxurious dining experiences and relaxation outlets.
Skischule Arlberg is the award-winning largest ski school in Austria, founded by Hannes Schneider, the father of the modern “Arlberg technique” skiing style. Before Schneider’s development of this forward semi-squatting posture, the trend was to stand erect with rigid knees, a position derived from Nordic or cross-country skiing, which wasn’t a practical stance for the steep Tyrolian terrain. Ski instructors at Skischule Arlberg keep lessons fun and stress-free, moving at the students’ pace and providing encouragement without pushing too far beyond current comfort levels. For those unaccustomed to ski life, it’s an excellent introduction to what many Alpine locals grow up learning from a young age.
Ski School Arlberg prepares skiers to achieve their athletic goals.
An incredible highlight of St. Anton—no skis needed—is up on the very peak of Valluga, at 9,222 miles above sea level. Ride the “Galzigbahn” ski lift to the first mountain station, where you can snack at the Galzig Restaurant, shop in the ski store, and watch athletes descend the slopes. Then ascend with the “Vallugabahn I” lift through fog and clouds to the Vallugagrat station and the Valluga View Restaurant. One more ride in the small “Vallugabahn II” cable car brings you to the pinnacle lookout point—a circular railed platform open to the intense sun and whipping wind, with breathtaking views of snow-covered Alps in every direction. You have a clear panorama from Lake Constance to Switzerland and the Zugspitze, the highest mountain in Germany. From here, you can see the extraordinary beauty of the glacier-carved gorges as well as the splendid organization of the ski resort, with numerous lifts in motion, skiers gracefully carving patterns into the snow, and sky-high facilities with everything you might need for your day in the heights.
Unbeatable Valluga views are a highlight of St. Anton am Arlberg.
Don’t leave the Alps without an après-ski experience! St. Anton am Arlberg holds many opportunities to unwind and let loose after a day of athletics. You can party hard with club music and tasty drinks at any number of après-ski huts, or partake in a casual post-ski meal at the rustic Sennhütte restaurant right on the slopes—its entrance marked by an enormous pair of Lederhosen. Either ski down the hill right to the restaurant or take a free bus trip there from the town center and hike up the WunderWanderWeg (wonder walking way) pathway from the bus stop. The back patio balcony affords an outstanding view into the mountains—a brilliant backdrop for sampling Käsespätzle (thick cheesy noodles topped with crispy fried onions), Schnitzel and Pommes (fried meat cutlets and French fries), and gulping a refreshing beer or Skiwasser (“ski water”—an alcohol-free blend of raspberry syrup, lemon juice, and water or seltzer).
Giant lederhosen and the WunderWanderWeg lead the way to Sennhütte.
Any beer fans or German-language–lovers know that Bavaria is a nearby European destination worth visiting, so travel by Eurail from St. Anton 3.5 hours northeast and you’ll end up in Munich, Germany. A short walk from the Munich main train station through a Mediterranean district brings you to the fresh and inviting greenery-filled lobby of the KOOS Hotel. A prime location near Karlsplatz bus and streetcar stops, the KOOS Hotel is also within easy walking distance of the Altstadt, Munich’s medieval old town. KOOS Hotel’s vegan-friendly personal care products in the rooms and numerous vegetarian and vegan breakfast selections are a welcome perk for those with specific preferences and dietary needs. The hotel is also a role model for sustainability and is entirely paperless, with a digital check-in process and novel phone-activated room entry in lieu of a room key. This family- and dog-friendly haven near the city center has all you need for your stay, including an in-room washing machine and clothesline for freshening up travel clothes.
Environmental consideration and convenience are key at KOOS Hotel.
If you’re looking to buy some “new-to-you” threads, consider a walk to Holareidulijö traditional Bavarian clothing store. Affable and knowledgeable shop owner, Michaela Klein, lovingly restores and resells used Dirndl, Lederhosen, hats, vests, and myriad Bavarian accessories and jewelry, while offering an assortment of new shirts and socks to match her wares. During Oktoberfest season, Klein’s store and the extra garage unit in back are packed with shoppers searching rows of racks for colorful festival outfits and drinking the free beer she offers during her busiest weeks.
Holareidulijö is a treasure trove of authentic, high-quality refurbished Trachten.
For a fantastic meal and some Augustiner beer or a selection from about 160 different wines, head to Xaver’s—a stylish restaurant and brew pub with a warm wood interior and a mix of small and large tables for date night or Stammtisch (“regulars’ table,” where friends recurrently gather to eat, drink, and socialize). Here, young and old alike are drawn to the restaurant motto’s “refreshingly traditional” vibe that features fun and friendly staff clad in traditional Bavarian costume (including genial owner Xaver himself, a sommelier and one of several restaurant-owning brothers). The menu features classic Bavarian dishes reimagined with a fresh take using locally farmed ingredients, as well as innovative entrees that change every six weeks. The lively music and cheerful atmosphere make you want to come back and be part of the scene— same time next week.
With a fresh take on Old World style, Xaver’s serves locally grown foods, Augustiner beer, and wines galore.
Spend a sunny day walking through the English Gardens to see brave wet-suited surfers on the man-made river waves and stop at the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm (beer garden at the Chinese tower) for a fresh-baked pretzel and a mug of beer, Maracuja (passion fruit) juice with water, or Johannisbeere (black currant) juice with water. Kids can play on the jungle gym while adults chat and people-watch, all while listening to the lively oompah band playing from the second level of the tower.
On a nice day, the English Gardens fills with picnickers, volleyball players, surfers, and groups of friends.
For a dose of education, head to the Deutsches Museum, one of the world’s largest natural science and technology museums. Through hands-on experiments and interactive exhibits, explore the physics of light and sound, observe chemical reactions, and learn about human body physiology. An enormous aviation center and historic airplane hangar allow visitors to climb into cockpits and pilot model airplanes. In the Musical Instruments exhibition, try your hand at playing the theremin—an electronic musical instrument played by placing hands in the air between two antennas that sense the hands’ positions and control frequency and volume.
Deutsches Museum interactive exhibits make learning fun.
After two nights in each city—Davos, Switzerland; St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria; and Munich, Germany—a flight out of Munich Airport concludes an adventure exploring towns in three different countries all within one week. Thanks to Eurail’s flexible Global Pass, it is a fantastic way to get a taste of multiple countries with just one set of airline flights!
Eurail offers speedy and smooth transportation, and window seats to beautiful scenery.
Looking for more ski opportunities? Visit bestofthealps.com to learn more about top ski resorts that help define and cultivate Alpine culture. Best of the Alps is a collection of 9 Alpine resorts that showcase mountain village magic and charm in Switzerland, Austria, France, and Italy. For more than 30 years, the Best of the Alps organization has encouraged exploration of the cultures, communities, traditions, natural wonders, and distinctions of these remarkable Alpine destinations: Chamonix-Mont-Blanc and Megève in France; Cortina d’Ampezzo and Courmayeur in Italy; Crans-Montana and Davos Klosters in Switzerland; and Kitzbühel, Lech Zürs am Arlberg, and St. Anton am Arlberg in Austria.
European Traveler 