Attractions – Page 17 – European Traveler

‘Ciao Down’ in Emilia-Romagna, Italy’s Gastronomic Capital

By Kristi Nelson Cohen
Photos by the author

One of things travelers enjoy the most is, well, eating. We chow down breakfast, lunch and dinner without blinking an eye, when we wouldn’t dream of eating this much at home. But as they say, “When in Rome.” You should definitely dine as they do, with a great glass of wine. Each region of Italy offers its specialties, but Emilia-Romagna, located in the heartland of central Italy, could easily be considered this country’s gastronomic capital.

Located just over an hour north of Florence and about two hours southwest of Venice is the region’s capital, a major metropolitan city called Bologna. Bologna is easily reached as a transportation hub on the Italian rail or on Highway A1 from Florence. Less than an hour northwest of Bologna are the smaller communities of Modena and Parma, which are also accessible by rail or car. The busy A1 highway links Bologna to Milan via Modena and Parma.

The larger-than-life opera singer Luciano Pavarotti was from Modena. Pavarotti’s large stature and his appetite for life, friendliness and generosity exemplify the people of this region. Those who watched his funeral on television in late 2007 got a glimpse of Modena’s historic Romanesque duomo. This 11th century cathedral, its piazza and bell tower are all listed by UNESCO as a world heritage site. But we’re here to talk about food!

Pigs still outnumber people here, which is why the Parma ham or prosciutto di parma is a dietary staple. Many of Italy’s prosciutto, salami and other pork products are cured in towns scattered over this region. Another well-known food staple is Parmesan cheese, and we’re not talking about the stuff that comes in a green can. The real deal is called Parmigiano-Reggiano. And don’t forget about the famed balsamic vinegar which originated in Modena, called Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale. Here a visitor will learn about the painstaking process of making this aged, black gold. Tradizionale Balsamico is very expensive — a small bottle can cost $100-$400 — but each thick drop carries sweet and complex flavors used to enhance a variety of foods.

ACETO BALSAMICO TRADIZIONALE DI MODENA

The balsamic vinegar found in the grocery stores, or even in the specialty gourmet stores in the U.S., is great on salads, but has merely a slight resemblance to the real thing. Tradizionale vinegar is made with the Trebbiano white grape. The juice is cooked, reduced and fermented in a series of specifically made wooden casks for no less than 12 years. Each year, the vinegar evaporates from the wooden casks and is then moved to a graduated smaller cask. At the end of 12 years, what started as six gallons of fermenting grape juice will only produce one quart of finished tradizionale vinegar.

The vinegar production must pass strict government standards and be approved by the Balsamic Vinegar Consortium which monitors the quality and production amounts. There is only a handful of small producers, and while prices may seem high, this syrupy concoction takes years to create. While visiting the area it is possible to schedule a production tour and tasting. High end restaurants offer menu selections where the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale is sprinkled sparingly over grilled meats, strawberries, tortelloni, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or even over ice cream. This sweet, aged, deep brown nectar can even be drunk as an after-dinner liqueur.

SAY “CHEESE” — PARMIGIANO–REGGIANO

West of Modena is Reggio Emilia, the birthplace of the renowned Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. This cheese is not only grated onto pasta, but is often served by itself in chunks as an appetizer or even for dessert, when it might be drizzled with honey or the famed balsamic vinegar.

Cheese production tours are available with advance scheduling. There you can watch cheese makers stirring the milky brew in large copper cauldrons, then cutting through the curds and later forming soft pillows of cheese. The soft cheese is pressed into a wheel form with the pre-formatted stamp which says “Parmigiano Reggiano” and allowed to cool. The soft wheel is then cured in saltwater brine for two weeks. The cheese wheel is then placed on wooden shelves and allowed to age from 2-5 years.

Visitors can easily buy this cheese from any market in the area or even at the airport on departure day. Be sure to check the hardened rind area to see the perforated stamp of authenticity. If the cheese is sealed in a vacuum package, it is perfectly acceptable to carry home as a delicious reminder of a vacation in Italy.

(left to right) Wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano undergo the aging process; Master cheese makers with pillows of soft cheese

FAST CARS, RAGING BULLS AND RED RACING FEVER

If great food and world heritage sights aren’t enough to entice a visit to the area, perhaps the thrill of seeing another part of Italy’s claim to fame will Italian design is world famous, but none more coveted than Italian specialty sports cars. The Modena area is home to Ferrari, Maserati, Ducati, Lamborghini and Pagani.

Tours at the Ferrari factory, located 12 miles south of Modena in Maranello, are not available, but the Galleria Ferrari Museum has a great exhibition of engines, vintage cars, memorabilia and a reconstruction of Ferrari founder Enzo Ferrari’s personal study. There’s also the official Formula One shop, the Ferrari restaurant and places where visitors can view the Ferrari test track through the fence, giving an ample cure for “red racing fever.”

The Lamborghini Factory Museum located at Via Modena 12 in Sant’Agata is under the same roof as the “raging bull” factory. There visitors enjoy a wide array of vintage automobiles, historic photos and rare prototype models. With an advance appointment, factory tours are also available, and this museum isn’t nearly as crowded as Ferrari, which gives visitors a chance to stroll the displays at leisure. Guided tours in English are available with advance request.

There is so much to see for the sports car enthusiast that it might be best to set up guided full-service tours with museum and factory admission organized in advance by a professional guide service. Le Volpi Ciccione is one such operator. They can even customize a tour that includes your own Ferrari to drive for a few days, as long as your budget will allow.

Our food and motor tour included a cooking class at the Ferrari Village restaurant. The Ferrari Village’s red exteriors were a good match for the passion of the restaurant’s culinary team, which graciously opened their kitchen so our group could learn to make gnocco fritto (a light deep-fried dough which was served piping hot with thin slices of prosciutto) and the filled pasta called tortelloni (larger) or tortellini (traditional smaller-shaped filled pasta). Following the cooking instructions, our group enjoyed a luncheon fit for kings and, yes, we sampled our own creations, although some students were better at shaping the tortelloni than others.

With great food, historic sights, friendly people and the classy Italian sports cars, this area of Italy is not to be missed!

CONTACT INFORMATION TO HELP YOU FIND YOUR WAY THROUGH EMILIA-ROMAGNA

Le Volpi Ciccione srl – Tour Operator/Travel Agency in Modena
Le Volpi provides customized tours and area lodging with emphasis on food, wine, motorcars, historic sights and much more. English speaking guides and group tours available.

Vicolo del cane 7, 41100 Modena, Italy
Phone: 011-39-059-218 722
For customized tour itineraries for both individuals and groups, contact Giusy@levolpiciccione.it

Museo Lamborghini
Via Modena 12, 40019 Sant’Agata Bolognese, Italy
Phone: 011- 39-051-681 7611
Open Monday through Friday excluding holidays
E-mail: museo@lamborghini.com or for factory tours factorytour@lamborghini.com

Galleria Ferrari
Via Dino Ferrari, 43-41053 Maranello, Italy
Phone: 011-053-694-32 04
Open every day excluding Dec. 25 & Jan. 1
E-mail: (for group requests) galleria@ferrari.it

Balsamic Vinegar Consortium
Corso Cavour 60, Modena 41100
Phone: 011-059 23 6981

Parmigiano-Reggiano Consortium
Via Kennedy 18, Reggio-Emilia
Phone: 011-052 23 077 41

About the writer
Kristi Nelson Cohen, also known as the “Train Dame,” has a long history with marketing and tourism promotions. Cohen’s love of history and trains, in addition to her hospitality and marketing background, led to a position as Vice President of Marketing for the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad where she worked full time until 2004.

Cohen remains active as an affiliate for American Heritage Railways and Rail Events Inc. where she has assisted with marketing efforts for The Great Smoky Mountains Railroad, Thomas the Tank Engine, Little Engine That Could Rail Tour and Polar Express Rides. She was also one of the organizers of the National Narrow Gauge Convention held in Durango in August 2006. She now owns and operates an international tour company called Bella Italia Trips, leading guided tours to Italy.

Humble Onion Stars at Weimar Onion Market

A colorful autumn fair; a local market since 1653

Photos courtesy of German National Tourist Office

The humble onion is the star of the show at the Onion Market held in Weimar, Germany every October. These are no ordinary onions lumped together in crates or sacks; these are onions arranged together in the traditional way and decorated with dried flowers of yellow, white or lilac. They come in all sizes, too—from tiny ones to whopping big ones.

MARKET FOR BEASTS AND ONIONS
The market was first recorded in 1653 as a “market for beasts and onions” on what is today the Frauenplan, at a time when Weimar barely had a population of 5,000. There are many instances of the links between the German writer Goethe and the Market; he is said to have secured onion hearts to his desk, to have decorated his house with them, and to have praised the role of the onion in promoting good health.

In the 19th century, the market moved to today’s Schillerstrasse and developed into the major onion purchasing center for the whole of central Germany. Dealers came mainly from Heldrungen, 29 miles away, and that is still the case today.

In 1861 the market was extended to three days. In 1872 the city of Weimar passed an Onion Market Ordinance. Onions are offered as well as celery, radishes, garlic, leeks and marjoram, as well as other types of spices and vegetables. During the 20th century, world wars and inflation led to the decline of the market, and it was reduced to one day due to the limited produce available and high prices. It was not until the 1950s that the market began to pick up again, and by 1971 a record was set when 200,000 visitors attended.

ONION GARLAND
The sale of the famous market souvenir, the onion garland, has grown to 70,000 pieces, and onions and other vegetables, fruits, spices and handicrafts began to make their mark. In 1990 the Onion Market again became a three-day event. The market has also grown in size in the interim and now occupies the whole of the historic inner city. The number of visitors is now 350,000 annually.

For more info, contact the German National Tourist Office.

Take a Ride on the Cheese Train

Photos courtesy Lake Geneva Office of Tourism, Switzerland

The GoldenPass Cheese Train in Switzerland will take you from Montreux to Château-d’Oex every Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 10:30 a.m. through April 27, where you can discover the specialities of the Pays-d’Enhaut region.

CHEESEMAKING DEMONSTRATION

Le Chalet is a typical mountain chalet, serving fondue and dessert.

MUSÉE DU VIEUX PAYS-D’ENHAUT (SILHOUETTE MUSUEM)
This museum of folk art was established in 1922 and gives an insight into the lives of the Swiss forefathers. The museum is well-known in particular for its collection of over 60 well-preserved scissor-cut silhouettes.

The art of paper cutting produces images that look like lace. They are carefully cut with scissors or cutters and are traditionally produced in one piece, in black and white. A paper cutting may also have different shades of color or formats, and sometimes it looks like a collage of colored papers.

Also in the Folk Art Museum there is painted wooden furniture, sculptures, statues, military paraphernalia, cow bells and skis, all from the XIV century. These objects are displayed throughout 15 individual rooms. The museum has also recreated rooms which depict the life of blacksmiths, alpine cheese-makers, country kitchens and a bread oven which dates back to 1665.

For more info, go to GoldenPass Cheese Train

Hike Through Switzerland’s Sunny South on the Trans Swiss Trail

Photos courtesy Switzerland Tourism

Switzerland is a hiking paradise, especially in fall, when the trees turn colors, the light is magical and the views most clear. With more than 37,300 miles of marked footpaths, 9,300 miles of cycle routes and mountain bike trails as well as charming canoe trips on lakes, outdoor activities are easily accessible to all.

Switzerland has integrated its outdoor trails into a single network: Switzerland Mobility. Thanks to high quality trails, all clearly marked, you can explore Alpine peaks, rolling hills, traditional villages and historic towns in delightful backdrops all by yourself.

FOUR SCENIC STAGES FROM BELLINZONA TO MENDRISIO
If you are looking for a hike through the sunny, southernmost canton of Switzerland, called the Ticino Canton, the section from Bellinzona to Mendrisio of the Trans Swiss Trail includes four scenic stages, passing through glades of ferns and forests of birch, by pretty lakes and over panoramic peaks.

1ST DAY: BELLINZONA–TESSERETE (12.5 MILES)
Bellinzona’s three castles, which became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000, make a fine backdrop for the start of this hike, which begins with a dramatic climb of 2,300 vertical feet until you are high above the Magadino plain. The trail then drops into the Val d’Isone and climbs the other side to the former lake of Gola di Lago, now just a marsh. You continue through glades of ferns and thin birch woods towards Monte Bigorio and then down to Tesserete, passing Switzerland’s oldest Capuchin monastery: Santa Maria, occupying a heavenly position high above the surrounding villages.

2ND DAY: TESSERETE–LUGANO (5.5 MILES)
The trail continues along a thickly wooded ridge until the chapel of San Bernardo, where it reveals spectacular views over Lugano and its lake, draped between the surrounding hillsides. You experience Lugano’s Mediterranean charm down in the city center, especially on warm summer evenings, when people gather in the outdoor cafes and along the lakefront to chat, stroll, celebrate and relax in style.

3RD DAY: LUGANO–MORCOTE (8.5 MILES)
The funicular ride up San Salvatore, a climb of 2,000 vertical feet, starts your day. The walk onward to Vico Morcote is a classic, ideal for all the family. The spectacular trail falls gently as it passes in and out of woodland and through pretty villages. All along the way, you’re never far from the next “grotto” (traditional Ticino restaurant).

4TH DAY: MORCOTE–MENDRISIO (8 MILES)
The day starts gently with a romantic boat ride across the lake from Morcote to Terniciolo, and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Monte San Giorgio. The mountain is famous around the world for its fossils: see some of the finest at the new museum in Meride.

For more info, go to MySwitzerland.com

Daruvar is Croatia’s Famous Crane Town

Photos courtesy Croatian National Tourist Board

Daruvar in Hungarian means Crane town (daru=crane, var=town).

HISTORY
On February 28, 1765 Maria Theresa, Queen of Habsburg dominions, granted Count Jankovich the title “de Daruvar” because of the crane in his family’s coat of arms. When Antun Jankovich built the Daruvar Castle between 1771 and 1777 the town was forever known as Daruvar (in Hungarian “Daruvar” means Crane town or Crane’s castle).

The crane’s pose on the coat of arms, turned to the right side with its leg raised, represents constant alert on the watch. Since Antun Jankovich was the founder of the town, the symbol on the town’s coat of arms is also a crane.

MOST DECORATED SMALL TOWN OF CONTINENTAL CROATIA The combination of greenery and urban architecture, cultural diversity and fertile vineyards, entices travelers to visit Daruvar.

Famous as a spa town with the tradition of health tourism for more than 2,000 years, the town boasts an enriched combination of greenery, new and historic buildings and a rich selection of touristic and recreational facilities.

WINE ROAD
The Daruvar Wine Road and recreational areas which are located within the newly-opened thermal water park “Aquae Balissae” make the town an interesting place to visit for many local and foreign visitors. Two large decorated parks and the Roman forest in the town center discreetly blend with the town’s architecture, making the town one of the greenest urban areas in Croatia.

For more info: Croatian National Tourist Board

(left and middle) Daruvar’s Coat of Arms; Daruvar, Croatia