History – European Traveler

Cruising the Loire River with CroisiEurope

Mouthwatering meals, comfortable accommodations and excursions to grand French chateaux highlight travels on the Loire Princesse, a great way to see France

By Randy Mink

Those who have cruised the Danube, Rhine, Seine and other popular rivers of Europe might put a fresh new destination on their radar—the Loire Valley of western France.

Gliding gently from east to west through the center of France, the Loire River flows past fertile fields, rolling hills and countless palaces and castles. Only one ship—CroisiEurope Cruises’ 96-passenger Loire Princesse—offers this route, and I was onboard November 2025.

On a five-day/four-night itinerary from Nantes, my daughter, her husband and I sailed to the Atlantic port of Saint-Nazaire and then headed east to visit the opulent Renaissance-era chateaux and do some wine tasting. To reach Nantes, we rode for two hours and 19 minutes on a high-speed train from Paris, where we spent three days both before and after the cruise.

Left: CroisiEurope’s 96-passenger Loire Princesse, shown here in Nantes, is the only ship offering overnight cruises on France’s Loire River. (Randy Mink Photo) Top Right: The lounge/bar is the gathering spot for guests of the Loire Princesse. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope Cruises) Bottom Right: Loire Princesse passengers have a chance to meet the chef and other staff members at a gala cocktail party in the lounge/bar. (Randy Mink Photo)

Enchanting Nantes

A pleasant surprise, Nantes was a highlight of our 10-day trip to France. I had never heard much about it and was expecting just another big city, but the most westerly of France’s large urban centers turned out to be a charmer.

In the heart of town, just steps from the Loire Princesse dock, lies Les Machines de L’ile, one of Nantes’ premier tourist attractions. At this gallery/workshop where oversized mechanical animals come alive, a group of us from the ship saw demonstrations of a giant spider, ant, heron, sloth, caterpillar, chameleon and other creatures in motion. Occupying former shipyard buildings in a reimagined district that preserves reminders of Nantes’ maritime past, it’s a one-of-a-kind artistic project inspired by the fantasy worlds of science-fiction novelist Jules Verne (a native of Nantes), Leonardo da Vinci’s mechanical aesthetic and the city’s industrial history.

Getting the most attention at Les Machines de L’ile is the Grand Elephant, which can be seen ambling along the quay carrying up to 50 people on its back. Made of steel and wood and fitted with a hybrid engine, the 39-foot-high, 48-ton creation has been offering rides since 2007 and is practically a symbol of modern Nantes, the sixth-largest city in France. Robotic-like, he walks by the project’s massive Marine Worlds Carousel, a three-story, interactive crowd-pleaser populated by sea animals that riders can manipulate with ropes and levers.

mechanical elephant with people aboard — The Grand Elephant, a mechanical wonder at Les Machines de L’ile in Nantes, lumbers along the quayside, just steps from the Loire River. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

Before boarding the ship, we had a chance to poke around Nantes’ historic core, a compact area dominated by two attractions dating from the 15th century—the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul and Castle of the Dukes of Brittany. Exhibits in the castle museum chronicle the city’s history. You can stroll the ramparts for free. Also worth a look is the 1843 Passage Pommeraye, a covered shopping gallery with a monumental iron-and-glass roof.

interior of a shopping mall — Tourists exploring Nantes’ historic core will want to take a peek at Passage Pommeraye, a shopping mall dating back to 1843. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

people relaxing on lawn outside of a castle — The Castle of the Dukes of Brittany in Nantes houses a museum that chronicles the city’s history. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

cathedral with people outside of it — The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul is a Gothic gem in Nantes’ historic district. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope Cruises)

Saint-Nazaire: Shipbuilding Center on the Atlantic

Downstream from Nantes, at the mouth of the Loire, resides the great shipbuilding center of Saint-Nazaire. On our shore excursion, I made good use of touchscreens, videos and a handheld audio guide during an immersive virtual voyage into the heyday of ocean liners at Escal’Atlantique, a museum housed in a German WWII submarine base a short walk from the Loire Princesse’s berth.

Besides furniture, artwork, dinnerware and large sections of paneling and other decor fragments, the museum showcases re-creations of staterooms and elegant public spaces of legendary French Line ships like the Normandie, a 1930s classic built in Saint-Nazaire. A movie with archival footage provides a timeline of important chapters in trans-Atlantic ship travel and explains how the airlines, beginning in the late 1950s, made ocean crossings a relic of the past. Visions of the ill-fated Titanic surface as your museum visit ends with a ride in a lifeboat that’s lowered to the floor below.

From the roof of the old submarine base, I could see the MSC World Asia under construction at Chantiers de l’Atlantique, one of the few shipyards that builds today’s mega liners. Our cruise did not include a visit there, but normally a shipyard tour is part of the program.

museum lifeboat — Guests of Escal’Atlantique, a Saint-Nazaire museum that chronicles the heyday of trans-Atlantic ocean travel, end their visit by riding in a lifeboat that’s lowered to the floor below. (Randy Mink Photo)

music room with piano and couches — A re-creation of the cozy first-class music room of the French Line’s Liberté, an ocean liner built in 1950, is on display at Escal’Atlantique. (Randy Mink Photo)

coasters and coffee mugs in a souvenir shop — Maritime-themed souvenirs fill the shelves of the gift shop at Escal’Atlantique. (Randy Mink Photo)

Loire Princesse Amenities and Mealtimes

The Loire Princesse, a product of Saint-Nazaire’s shipyards, was built in 2015. Sporting side paddlewheels, the floating hotel is outfitted with a shallow draft suited to Loire River travel.

In fact, “the MS Loire Princesse was engineered specifically for this river,” says Sandrah Gurash, North America general manager for CroisiEurope. “As this is a ‘wild’ river, water levels are not controlled by lock systems and it can impact navigation abilities. The shallow draft and paddlewheels allow her to navigate the river in all but extreme water level conditions.”

The 30 Upper Deck cabins feature a sliding panoramic window and a terrace with two chairs and a table, while the deck below has 18 cabins with high windows. I liked how my bed faced the terrace and appreciated the ample closet space and floor-to-ceiling mirror. Bright and white, the room and bathroom showed no signs of aging.

Large windows grace the Loire Princesse’s lounge/bar, where the fun and music happens. One night in this welcoming living room, we were serenaded with traditional Breton songs performed by a spunky duo that encouraged audience participation. The lounge’s outdoor patio affords great landscape views. One level above, the Sun Deck offers 360° panoramas.

The best part of a CroisiEurope cruise, we had heard, is the refined French cuisine, and the Loire Princesse culinary team did not disappoint. Indeed, mealtimes in the restaurant merited exclamation points. The courses were artfully presented, the ingredients top quality, the sauces phenomenal. Each lunch and dinner (a plated meal orchestrated by a chef from Cameroon) seemed to outdo the previous one. Breakfast was a bountiful buffet. The cruise fare includes all drinks with meals and at the bar.

My favorite dinner started with assorted canapes and a silky, melt-in-your-mouth duck foie gras, followed by a quail filet in port wine sauce, brie filled with mascarpone and the grand finale—baked Alaska flambéed in Grand Marnier. A memorable lunch starred leek quiche and salmon steak in a white butter sauce the region is known for.

Our lunches and dinners did not include a choice of main course, but, starting in 2027, a selection of mains will be standard on all CroisiEurope river and canal cruises.

slice of quiche on a plate — Leek quiche is served for lunch in the Loire Princesse’s restaurant. (Randy Mink Photo)

cruise ship dining room — Gourmet meals await passengers in the Loire Princesse’s restaurant. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope Cruises)

Clisson Walking Tour and Muscadet Wine Route

Heading east from Nantes on Day 3, our shore excursion took us to Clisson, a pretty village centered in picturesque castle ruins. Steps away from the medieval fortress is Clisson Market, a timber-framed structure where vendors sell fresh fruit and vegetables and locally caught fish. Rebuilt in the 19th century in the Italian architectural style, Clisson easily could pass for a town in Tuscany.

At our next stop, we gathered in a tasting room at Chateau Cassemichère to try several types of Muscadet, a dry white wine with a fruity bouquet that’s perfect with fish and seafood. The countryside south and east of Nantes has almost 400 wine growers, with Muscadet accounting for 80 percent of everything produced.

Walking tours of historic Clisson include a stop at the covered market. (Randy Mink Photo)

Loire Princesse shore excursions visit the picturesque French village of Clisson. (Photo credit: CroisiEurope)

Chateau Hopping in the Loire Valley

Our last day’s shore tour spotlighted two of the central Loire Valley’s most magnificent country estates—Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau and Chateau de Villandry. Both fulfilled my visions of stately French manors. But it was the latter that really captured my imagination, thanks to the elaborate geometric patterns of its terraced, Italian-influenced flower, vegetable and herb gardens, a photogenic display attended by 10 full-time gardeners.

A Loire Princesse shore excursion includes a visit to Chateau d’Azay-le-Rideau, one of the Loire Valley’s grand Renaissance-era estates. (Randy Mink Photo)

At Chateau de Villandry, you’ll see tulips, begonias, roses, forget-me-nots and other flowers, depending on time of year. Some of the hedges are shaped into symbols, including hearts, fans and daggers. Planted throughout the estate are 1,015 lime trees.

chateau surrounded by flowering gardens — Chateau de Villandry is famed for its beautiful gardens. (Photo credit: Pixabay)

Panoramic views of the adjacent village and manicured gardens are available from atop the 12th century tower, the walled compound’s only remnant from medieval times. The chateau in its present form was built in 1536 by the finance minister of Francois I. Over the centuries, owners have included an ambassador of Louis XV and a brother of Napoleon I.

sitting room with large tapestry on the back wall — Sumptuous interiors awe visitors to Chateau de Villandry. (Randy Mink Photo)

In 1906, Joachim Carvallo and his wife, Ann Coleman, scientists from Spain and America respectively, took over Chateau de Villandry and restored its interiors and gardens. They were passionate collectors of old paintings, particularly 17th century Spanish art; some are on display. Of special note is the Oriental Drawing Room’s exquisite ceiling, a creation of Moorish craftsmen that came from a 15th century palace near Toledo, Spain. Joachim and Ann’s great-grandson, Henri Carvallo, now runs the estate and lives with his family in the former stables.

Ah, to be lord of the castle. The thought may be only a dream for us commoners, but it’s fun to fantasize. Having a chance to traipse through the Loire Valley’s aristocratic estates, along with receiving royal treatment onboard the Loire Princesse, is privilege enough for me. For more information on Loire River and other CroisiEurope cruises, log on to www.croisieuroperivercruises.com.

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Spain’s Enchanting City of Flowery Patios

Medieval charm and floral beauty captivate visitors to Cordoba

Story and photos by Randy Mink

As you’re exploring the cobbled streets of this sun-kissed city in Southern Spain’s Andalusia region, it’s a smart move to escape the heat by stepping into a leafy courtyard festooned with flowers, draped in greenery and surrounded by thick, whitewashed walls. Harking back to Cordoba’s deep Arabic roots, these cool oases cast a magical spell.

Tucked into the largest urban historic center in Spain, the city’s trademark patios have always been a chief tourist draw. Architectural gems as well as horticultural havens, they mirror the tradition of cultivating flowers and plants introduced by the Moors when the Iberian Peninsula was ruled from Cordoba by Muslim emirs and caliphs. A respected seat of learning and artistic expression during its heyday in the 10th and early 11th centuries, Cordoba reigned as medieval Europe’s cultural capital, a city second in importance only to Constantinople. Christians, under King Ferdinand III of Castile, conquered Cordoba in 1236, ending five centuries of Muslim rule.

Tourists can take in the horticultural splendor on a tour of private patios in Cordoba’s San Basilio neighborhood.
Tourists can take in the horticultural splendor on a tour of private patios in Cordoba’s San Basilio neighborhood.

For two weeks every May, Cordoba celebrates its blooming courtyards during the Patio Festival (Festival de los Patios), an event held annually since 1921. About 50 private homes, competing for awards as the loveliest, open up their inner sanctums to the public—for free.

On my trip to Cordoba this past October, I was still able to view some private patios. In the San Basilio neighborhood, our group booked a tour (offered nearly year-round) that got us into the patios of five houses dating from the 16th to 18th centuries, a time when several poor families shared a communal courtyard. The common kitchen in some patios has been preserved and is on display. But the stars of the show are pots brimming with geraniums, impatiens, petunias, marigolds and other flower varieties, along with vines, shrubbery, rose bushes, and cascades of jasmine and raspberry-red bougainvillea. Orange, lemon, olive and fig trees also set the stage in these lush mini paradises, one of which is occupied by artisan shops specializing in handcrafted leather, ceramics, silver jewelry and perfumes.

FLORA: Blending Art and Nature

My October visit coincided with a relatively new cultural event that nods to Cordoba’s floral and botanical heritage. Called FLORA, the week-long, free-admission festival features five installations in public courtyards within walking distance of each other in the historic center. Using plants and other natural materials, five international artists vie for monetary prizes. We saw creations by competitors from Mexico, Brazil, the United States and Spain.

Bamboo canes and fountains in an art installation — Bamboo canes and fountains dominate the winning entry in FLORA 2025, an annual competition between international artists using plants and other natural materials to create large installations in existing patios in Cordoba.

FLORA 2025’s first-place winner was Wagner Kreusch, a Brazilian who fashioned a monumental structure out of green bamboo canes, fountains, a misting feature, and purple and white aspidistra flowers. Titled Rio Flotante, or “Floating River,” his entry wowed onlookers at Palacio de Viana, the estate of the aristocratic marquises of Viana until 1980. Now a major tourist attraction, the 16th century palace has 12 plant-filled patios, each with a story to tell, and rooms displaying collections of furniture, weapons, porcelain, tapestries and paintings.

Cordoba’s Historic Heart

Threads of Christian and Jewish history, intertwined with vestiges of Roman, Visigoth and Moorish rule, emerge from every corner of Cordoba’s UNESCO-recognized historic quarter, a tourist-friendly maze of narrow lanes snaking between white buildings adorned with iron-grillwork windows, doors and balconies.

city gate and ancient walls — This surviving city gate provides entry through the ancient walls of Cordoba’s historic center.

Practically all the city’s top sights lie within this easily walkable district, but it’s also fun just to wander and get lost in the labyrinth, where flower-decked patios, orange trees, and festive taverns and outdoor cafes typify the gracious lifestyle of Andalusia, the region that conjures up our most romantic visions of Spain. Within the old city walls, you’ll also find plenty of souvenir shops. A highlight for our group was a rousing flamenco show with dinner at El Jaleo, an intimate room where dancers electrified us with some thunderous stomping.

people walking down narrow street of shops — The intimate lanes of Cordoba’s historic center provide ideal settings for shopping, relaxing at cafes and just getting lost in medieval times.

Jewish Quarter

The medieval Jewish Quarter, or Juderia, is the historic core’s most atmospheric neighborhood, and its pleasures lay right outside the door of our hotel, the NH Collection Amistad Cordoba. Featuring flower-decked alleyways and patios, along with reminders of Jewish culture that flourished in Cordoba long ago, the quarter is home to the Synagogue, built in 1315. No longer used for worship, it’s the only Jewish temple in Andalusia to survive the Inquisition in 1492, when Jews were expelled from Spain or forced to convert to Christianity. Inside the small building you see Hebrew inscriptions, Arabic decoration and even a Cross (it was used as a church in the 19th century). For many years the Jews lived in harmony with the Muslims and some held prestigious positions in the government, professions and arts. Toledo claims Spain’s other two remaining medieval synagogues.

town street with people sitting at cafe tables — Cordoba’s atmospheric Jewish Quarter offers souvenir shops, cafes and a cozy medieval feel.

Nearby, in a beautifully restored 14th century house, Casa de Sefarad is a museum that tells the story of the Sephardic Jews in Iberia and other Mediterranean lands (a group differentiated from the Ashkenazi Jews of Central and Eastern Europe).

At the Bullfighting Museum (Museo Taurino), right across the plaza from my hotel, I learned about some of Cordoba’s greatest matadors. Though much of the exhibit text was in Spanish only, the two short audio-visual presentations provided an option in English. With a wrap-around screen, one film puts you right in the middle of the ring with a ferocious bull.

Cordoba’s Crown Jewel: The Mezquita

First-time Cordoba visitors make a beeline to the Mezquita, a former mosque that has been a church since the 13th century. Rather than destroy the mosque, the Christians decided to modify it. In fact, the church—complete with an elaborate main altar, a giant nave, an organ, religious artwork, tombs of important citizens and intricately carved Cuban mahogany choir stalls—appears to have been plopped smack into the middle of the mosque. The cavernous Mezquita (Spanish for “Mosque”) was once the second largest mosque in the world after the Great Mosque in Mecca.

A seemingly endless forest of columns and arches mesmerizes visitors to the Mezquita, a mosque turned church. It is Cordoba’s most important tourist sight.
The Mezquita’s bell tower was built over the mosque’s minaret around 1600.
The Mezquita, once the second-largest mosque in the world, has been a Catholic church since the 13th century.

The Mezquita’s most dazzling sight is the endless forest of marble, granite and onyx columns topped with red-and-white-striped, horseshoe-shaped double arches, Islamic style; many of the pillars were recycled from Roman and Visigothic times. Fashioned over the centuries from a jumble of architectural styles, the dimly lit Mosque-Cathedral, as it’s known, is vast, mysterious and hard to wrap your head around. The columned arcades seem to march on forever, melting into infinity. There is no other building like it.

I wanted to climb the Mezquita’s bell tower (built around 1600 over remains of the mosque’s minaret), but tickets for the day were sold out. So, I crossed the Guadalquivir River via the 2,000-year-old Roman Bridge, a wide pedestrian walkway, and took in panoramic views from the rooftop terrace of the Calahorra Tower, a crenellated 1369 structure that houses a museum of Andalusian culture.

The rooftop terrace of Calahorra Tower affords fine views of Cordoba’s historic center, the Roman Bridge and the Guadalquivir River.
The Roman Bridge, a wide pedestrian walkway, spans the Guadalquivir River.

The bridge and Mezquita are a short walk from Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, residence of the Christian monarchs. The palace-fortress currently is closed for renovations, but I enjoyed walking through its terraced gardens, admiring the plantings and statuary. One sculpture depicts Christopher Columbus being received by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, sponsors of his 1492 voyage to the New World.

three tall statues in a garden — The Alcazar Gardens in Cordoba feature a sculpture of Christopher Columbus being received by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella.

flower pot with garden and trees — The terraced gardens of the Alcazar palace/fortress are a must-see in Cordoba.

When it comes to destinations in Andalusia, Cordoba often gets short shrift, as Seville and Granada tend to get the most attention. But Cordoba should be on every traveler’s radar. Indeed, this overlooked city merits a day or two for a good looking over.

For more information log on to www.spain.info/en/destination/cordoba/

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Exploring Germany: Culture, Cuisine, and History on Viking Cruises

Even a 45-minute lecture can prepare you for the sights and scenes of Germany

Story and photos by Sharon Hudgins

Cruise Lecture Teaches History, Culture
If you watch Masterpiece and other programs on public television in America, you’re probably familiar with the phrase, “Viking. Proud sponsor of…”—accompanied by images from Viking’s “longboat” cruises on the Rhine, Mosel, and Danube rivers in Europe. Other times you see wanderlust-invoking scenes from Viking’s ocean-going fleet, which sails the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, the Baltic and Mediterranean seas, and beyond, encircling the globe. And occasionally you’ll see the two new Viking polar-class expedition ships, the “Octantis” and “Polaris,” that sail to Antarctica in the Southern Hemisphere and the Great Lakes in the Northern Hemisphere.

Since 2017 I’ve had the pleasure of being a guest speaker on Viking Ocean Cruises in Europe, giving lectures on historical, cultural, and culinary topics aboard ships sailing from Viking’s home port in Bergen, Norway, to most of the countries bordering on the Baltic Sea.

The “Viking Sea” ship docked at a Baltic port.

That itinerary follows the routes of the Hanseatic League, the medieval trading confederation that linked the countries of England, northern Europe, and Russia, and also the routes of the earlier, historical Vikings, who plied the waters of the Baltic, too.

Viking prides itself on focusing on the history and cultures of every country on its itineraries. So the cruise director on each ship schedules lectures about those destinations one or two days before the ship arrives in a port, to prepare passengers for the sights, sounds, and tastes of each new country they visit.

While the cruise ship guests are away during the day on shore excursions to a variety of places in those countries, the ship’s staff refills the vessel’s fuel tanks, cleans the guest rooms and public spaces, restocks food supplies, and prepares meals for hungry passengers when they come back on board. The singers, dancers, and musicians also use that time to rehearse their next shows on stage.

Cultural Stereotypes and Truths
So what does that have to do with Germany? Many cruise lines sailing in the Baltic dock at the busy German port of Warnemünde. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Warnemünde and the surrounding area, as a guest speaker on Viking, National Geographic-Lindblad, and Oceania cruises, as well as on press trips for journalists gathering new material for articles to write. But only on Viking cruises have I had the opportunity to present a 45-minute illustrated lecture about that entire country of Germany, a nation I often think of as “my second home.”

I begin with a short introduction telling how long I lived in Germany (15 years) and what I was doing there (teaching for the University of Maryland’s education programs at U.S. military bases, writing for the Stars and Stripes newspaper). I also mention that for 28 years I was a writer for German Life magazine in America, too. Then I launch into my lecture: “Germany: Land of Laptops and Lederhosen.”

A lecture on “all-of-Germany” in 45 minutes? How is that possible? Not easy without being superficial, I assure you. And that’s exactly how I begin my lecture, showing pictures of the stereotypes that many people have about Germany: Men in Lederhosen. Women wearing Dirndls. Oompah bands and choral groups clothed in traditional Trachten, too. Half-timbered houses and fairy-tale castles. Foaming mugs of beer. Strings of sausages. Pretzels!

Then I point out that stereotypes often contain a grain of truth. But they’re only one part of a many-faceted story (or country), factors that exist side-by-side with all of them being true simultaneously.

Modern Germany – Regions and Festivals
So I segue easily into modern Germany: High-speed highways. High-speed trains. High-tech industries. High fashion. Avant-garde art and architecture. Michelin-starred restaurants and Turkish döner kebab stands. And all those oh-so-wonderful German breads and pastries!

There’s no way anyone could condense centuries of German history into such a lecture. So I focus on Germany today, starting with Berlin and the country’s government (with a nod to the rise and fall of the Berlin Wall), and an overview of Germany’s population, literacy rate, national health insurance program, religions, and economy. The rest of my presentation is about the characteristics of its four main regions, from North to South, East to West, including those regions’ differing landscapes, architecture, industries, and cuisines. Then I conclude with—what else?—Oktoberfest! That world-renowned German beer festival brings me full circle back to the beginning of my lecture: The coexistence of stereotypes and deeper, often contrasting, realities in Germany today, a land of computers and cowbells indeed.

Viking Ships and Excursions
Viking’s ocean vessels carry 960 guests, plus a large, well-trained crew. While in port, most of the passengers head off on shore excursions, and even some of the ship’s employees have a few hours of shore leave, too. When the ship is docked in Warnemünde, Viking offers half-day and full-day excursions to several locations in northern Germany: the Hanseatic cities of Rostok, Lübeck, and Wismar; a classic 19th-century spa town reached by steam train; the magnificent castle in Schwerin; the grim concentration camp at Sachsenhausen.

But the most popular destination is Berlin—six hours round-trip by special train, plus six hours of touring various parts of the city and its historical sites, by chartered buses and on foot with knowledgeable guides, or just exploring Berlin on your own. One excursion even includes lunch at the Reichstag, along with a special tour of that iconic building so important in Germany’s history.

Clockwise from left: The German Reichstag in Berlin, as seen from the Spree River.
The modernistic Marie-Elizabeth-Lueders-Haus government building near the Reichstag in Berlin.
The facades of many Berlin buildings are best viewed from a boat ride on the Spree River.

On my first Baltic cruise with Viking, the only time available for my Germany lecture was at 9 p.m. on the night before we docked at Warnemünde. Since half the 960 guests on that ship had signed up for the 12-hour shore excursions to Berlin the next day—and since they all had to get up at 5 a.m. to board the train at 6 that morning—I expected only a few people to attend my lecture that night. After all, passengers could always watch a video of it on television in their own cabins, any time later during the cruise. So I was surprised when half the ship showed up for that introduction-to-Germany lecture, filling the lecture hall.

The next evening we all returned from Berlin, tired but happy, after a full day of riding the rails through the German countryside, visiting one of the world’s great capital cities, and learning so much about Berlin’s special place in history. But another treat awaited us back in Warnemünde. A red carpet led from the cruise ship terminal across the pier to the ship’s gangway. Lined up along the sides were the ship’s officers and staff, from the captain to the cabin cleaners. At the terminal each guest was handed a glass of sparkling wine, which we all tried to balance in one hand while dancing along the red carpet to lively music, with many of the crew joining in, as we made our way back to the ship.

Top: One of the modernistic fountains in Rostock, a shore excursion destination on Viking Baltic cruises.
Lower left: Street musician in Rostock, one of the cities on shore excursions from Viking ships docked at Warnemünde, Germany, on Baltic cruises.
Middle and lower right: The colorful Alter Strom inner harbor at Warnemünde is always filled with small fishing boats and sightseeing boats.

German Culinary Delights on Deck
Dinners on board that evening featured traditional German specialties, from Sauerbraten to Schnitzel, Black Forest Cherry Cake to Bavarian Cream. And of course plenty of German beers and wines, too! As we sailed away from Warnemünde, the only regret for me was leaving a country where I have such deep roots. But we still had five other Baltic countries to visit on that cruise, so who was I to complain about new adventures awaiting the next day? And there was always the prospect of another cruise, or even a different kind of job, bringing me back to Germany in the future.

One of the greatest rewards of working on tours in Germany has been introducing other people to such a fascinating country. Nothing compares with the feeling I get when a member of our tour group comes up to me and says, “Thank you for your lecture about Germany. Because of you, I saw the country with different eyes when we were there.”

Left: One of the many pretty villas overlooking the waterfront at Warnemünde.
Right: Sand sculpture at the cruise ship dock in Warnemünde.

Sharon Hudgins is a professional writer and a lecturer on educational tours to Europe, Alaska, and North Asia. See more at www.sharonhudgins.com

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Discover Monte Isola: Fishing Heritage and Local Cuisine

By Alison Ramsey

Northern Italy island cuisine and fishing boats follow tradition

Literally translated to “Mount Island,” the beautiful village of Monte Isola, Italy, rises from the middle of Lake Iseo in the Brescia province in Lombardy. Monte Isola comprises three islands, the principal being Montisola—the largest inhabited lake island in Europe—reachable only by boat (ferries run approximately every 20 minutes during the day). Beneath the glittering cobalt water swims the sea life that, for years, inhabitants relied on for sustenance and livelihood. Montisola’s main industry is now tourism, but in the past, it was fishing.

Montisola island in Lake Iseo has many docks and fishing boats

Montisola island in Lake Iseo is lined with docks and fishing boats.

Fishing boats and islands dot Lake Iseo in the Brescia region of Italy.

Unique Wooden Fishing Boats

Shipbuilding yards focused heavily on making a typical style of fishing boat called the Naèt—long and narrow wooden boats, similar in style to the famous Venetian gondolas. Islanders depended on these light and agile boats for fast transportation to the mainland as well as for successful fishing. Naèts are difficult to construct and require great skill to make, with builders using an ax, hammer, chisel, and plane to cut and shape chestnut wood for the frame and durable larch wood for the remainder of the body.

The original flat 4.5-foot-wide boats were almost 23 feet long, with sails attached to two intercrossed chestnut wood poles—about 11.5 feet and 13 feet each. Around 1958, builders began removing the sails and adding engines to these boats, which shortened the boat length by about two feet. At the very center depth of the hull, the width remains only 80 cm. Every village uses its own color for their Naèts, so a quick glance at the docks identifies where each boat originated.

The only remaining shipbuilding yard on the island is Cantiere Nautico Ercole Archetti, and this craftsmanship-focused family company has trained five generations of carpenters to reach shipbuilding expertise. Building unique wooden boats since 1600, the team now uses cutting-edge technology but still makes their products entirely by hand, using carefully selected marine wood and employing highly qualified Master Shipwrights. Maintenance, storage, and rental are other offerings from Ercole Archetti Shipyards.

Paolo Archetti, owner of local net manufacturing company Bresciareti, said that nuns used to own property on the island and wanted to be paid for the land they lent out. Renters with limited cash began to pay the nuns in fish instead of funds—children loaded the special two-ended wooden needle with thread and women handwove the nets men used for fishing. Because fishing was most productive during the warm months of April, May, and June, islanders learned how to preserve their catches, drying the fish and conserving them in oil for later payment.

Top left: The color of a Naèt indicates from which village the boat originated.
Top right: The Bresciareti storefront sells handwoven net accessories and the company fulfills large orders of machine-created nets for sports, construction, and aviary control.
Bottom (photo courtesy of Michele Turla): Peschiera Maraglio port has always been a hotspot for boat parking.

Island Cuisine Includes Preserved Sardines

The pretty, pink-embellished Church of St. John the Baptist in Carzano, a small lakeside settlement on Montisola, is also known to locals as “St. John of the Sardines.” Independent tour guide Elena Confortini explained that on June 24 residents historically celebrated St. John’s feast day. On this day, which fell during the final seasonal period when sardines came closest to the shore and there was an abundance of fish, the church used to cook sardines in its front square and serve them freely. Although locally referred to as “sardines,” these fish are actually a species of freshwater twaite shad (Alosa fallax locustris) but are called sardèna in Italian because their appearance is similar to true sardines.

Left (photo courtesy of Michele Turla): Fishing was the primary industry in historical Monte Isola.
Right: Dried, salted, and preserved sardines on polenta are a traditional treat served by Sensole Locanda Contemporanea restaurant.

For centuries now, island cuisine has included dried, salted, and preserved fish—characteristically sardines, perch, and the common European whitefish (known in Italian as coregone). These fish, cured with salt and dried in the sun for 24 hours, are then washed and strung up in parallel lines dangling from hooks or tacked upon arches of ash branches secured with thread on both ends. After sunning outdoors in the heat for 5-10 days, the fish are removed into iron containers and pressed in olive oil. Several months in this state turns sardines a golden color, and they can then be seasoned simply with garlic, parsley, and oil, and grilled quickly over a hot fire. The surname “Archetti” is one of the more common names on Montisola. Translating to “little bows,” this name is derived from the bowed wooden frames erected all over the island for fish-drying.

Garden art pieces imitating fish-drying frames decorate the lakeside

Fish-drying frames are still used to dry sardines in the sun

Monte Isola fish-preservation techniques from the past are still used today across the island, and garden art pieces imitating fish-drying frames decorate the lakeside. (Black-and-white photo courtesy of Michele Turla)

Only two eateries on the island currently serve sardines, one of which is Sensole Locanda Contemporanea. This charming, yellow-walled lakeside restaurant sits directly down the rocky hillside below Martinengo Fortress, a privately owned castle with a recognizable circular lookout tower. Young restaurant owner, Giovanni Lo Bresti, expertly serves traditional dishes using locally grown products, with each course gorgeously plated. Try the intensely flavorful dried sardines (use fingers, not utensils, to eat it the authentic way!) alongside tasty bars of fried polenta. Enjoy Monte Isola smoked salami, grilled dry coregone fish, fried pike balls, homemade bread, butter sprinkled with perch bottarga (salted, cured fish roe), and spiced salami ragout with bread gnocchi.

Salted and dried sardines are served over fried polenta bars

The upper outdoor deck of Sensole Locanda Contemporanea restaurant overlooks beautiful Lake Iseo, while the lower outdoor patio invites guests from the pedestrian walk.

Montisola Olive Oil and Franciacorta Wine

At Sensole restaurant, diners can also try the deliciously light local extra virgin olive oil labeled “l’isola dell’olio” (translation: “island of the oil”). One olive grove of just nine trees produced 50 bottles of this particular oil in 2025, the last bottle of which was down to the last drops in late September.

The whole of Monte Isola contains approximately 15,000 olive trees of several varieties, with groves planted on steep terraces to match the upward sloping terrain. Although difficult to harvest mountainside, the olives produced are of high quality and thrive in the unique lake island microclimate. Montisola’s restaurants prepare homegrown products with local oil and pair dishes with DOC “controlled designation of origin” wines from the region, such as Caruna 100% Chardonnay Brut from the Franciacorta region’s vineyards (served only in the Franciacorta-specific tulip-shaped glasses that stimulate bubble longevity).

Local olive oil is made from olive trees on Montisola

Tasty local olive oil and flavorful, high-quality wines from the Franciacorta wine-growing region round out a relaxing and delicious meal provided by owner, Giovanni Lo Bresti, at Sensole Locanda Contemporanea.

All along the lakeside, pedestrians and bikers move down the winding path that separates glimmering water from flowering bushes and trees heavy with ripe fruit. Beside this promenade, sunbathers bask in golden rays and swimmers leap into the cool water to paddle amongst ducks and swans.

Here you can feel like you’ve stepped back into bygone times, commune with untouched nature, and enjoy an unhurried and uncrowded getaway. Wander the path to see garden art structures made of metal and wooden fish—imitating the ancient practice of drying the catch-of-the-day on arched racks—and peruse shops and cafes that use sardine and net décor to echo the fishing culture that sustained Monte Isola for so long.

HOW TO GET THERE… ✈️
Fly NEOS Air from JFK airport in New York to Milan, Italy, and then travel by train or car to Sulzano, on the eastern shore of Lake Iseo. Then, take the 5-minute ferry ride from mainland Sulzano to Peschiera Maraglio on Monte Isola. Visit neosair.com/it for flights and schedules.
Tip: If you follow NEOS Air on social media, you can often score flight discounts and coupons to use toward airfare.

WHERE TO STAY… 🛏️
For a day trip to Monte Isola, stay at the romantic and rich-with-history Cappuccini Resort (Via Cappuccini, 54, 25033 Cologne BS, Italy), a 30-minute drive from the Sulzano ferry dock. This charming monastery-turned-resort is beautiful, clean, peaceful, and tastefully furnished with a blend of vintage relics and modern décor. A separate building with yoga, sauna, steam cave, and bubbling grotto spa with fountains and sun-heated waters provides numerous relaxation opportunities. Wander the sprawling hillside grounds to visit the outdoor pool and explore blooming rose gardens and fruit orchards. For more information, please visit cappuccini.it/en.

BEFORE YOU GO… 💻
Navigate to italia.it and visitbrescia.it/en/ to discover events and experiences offered within the fascinating Brescia province. Bicycle tours, food and wine festivals, thermal springs, art museums, castles, Roman archeological ruins—round out your trip with a little of each.

Monte Isola, Italy

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Discover Nürnberg’s Many Medieval Layers

Women's Gate Tower entrance to Nuremberg

Story and Photos by Alison Ramsey

Nürnberg, Germany, is full of rich medieval history, with plenty of myths and mystery. The largest city in the northern region of Bavaria, often referred to as the unofficial capital of Franconia, Nürnberg displays a unique Franconian identity in terms of its culture, architecture, cuisine, and historical political structures. Explore all angles and layers of the city to learn more about what makes Nürnberg unique.

Nürnberg is easily entered through the Frauentorturm, directly across from the city’s main train station.

Enter the city through the base of the Frauentorturm (Women’s Gate Tower), and you’ll immediately find the first attraction in the initial interior lining. Craftsmen’s Courtyard is a collection of cottage industries behind the thick city wall, where small half-timbered workshops are labeled with antique signs and ornate metal fittings. Craftworkers here create pottery, glassware, candles, jewelry, leatherwork, and wooden wares. These traditional and unique gifts handmade by local artisans include leather bracelets, wallets, belts; carved wooden animals, toys, keychains, hand-carved pens, cutting boards, and kitchen utensils. Set amongst colorful flowering plants and bright-potted greenery, cafes and restaurants in this idyllic city segment serve tasty snacks, cakes, and invigorating coffee drinks.

Handcrafted gifts and homemade treats await in the Craftsmen’s Courtyard.

The Old Town’s Hauptmarkt (main market square) holds the famous Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain), an intricate 14^th century 62-foot-high Gothic structure encircled by a metal railing. Forty stone figures on four of the piece’s many tiers represent the world’s varied beliefs and philosophical ideas about the Holy Roman Empire during the medieval period—in the form of church and secular leaders, evangelists, prophets, philosophers, and biblical characters. Set within the intricate railing design is a small golden ring, and legend dictates that turning this shiny brass ring three times fulfills wishes and brings good luck.

Turn the Beautiful Fountain’s brass ring three times to make your wish come true!

Right here in the main market square is where the wintertime Christkindlesmarkt Christmas market is held, but during springtime, you can find a festive Easter market in its place. Shop for leather goods, wooden crafts, embroidered linens, woven socks, wine, spring home décor, pottery, and plush toys. Try the made-on-site fried dough with powdered sugar Küchle (little cake), sugared roasted nuts, and gingerbread cookies. Of course, if you’re missing the Christkindlesmarkt, stop into the Käthe Wohlfahrt specialty shop in town to stock up on Erzgebirge handmade Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, ornaments, and toys.

The main square houses winter and spring markets filled with handcrafted wares and tasty snacks.

Nürnberg provides many restaurant options for a delicious, full sit-down meal. Zum Gulden Stern is the city’s oldest existing historical bratwurst kitchen—and the oldest in the world—dating back to 1419. Here, the famous, original Nürnberg sausages (branded as the Original Nürnberger Röstla®) are grilled over a beechwood fire in a building built around 1380. The sausages are prepared with traditional spices like mace (a sister spice to nutmeg), marjoram, salt, and pepper, by the family-run Pfettner butcher shop in Nürnberg. The characteristic smoke and aroma of beechwood infuse this delicacy with unique flavor. The sausages served at Zum Gulden Stern are never boiled or pre-fried; instead, they are placed on the grill white and raw, cooked for about 7 minutes, and then removed once the tops and bottoms are evenly browned and crispy. (Consider also visiting the Nürnberg Bratwurst Museum, which presents the myths and legends surrounding these small 7-9cm sausages the town is known for.)

Zum Gulden Stern is a historic restaurant that serves the city’s famous mini sausages.

Barrel-fermented sauerkraut grown by the Wehr family in the Aischgrund region is cooked and seasoned at Zum Gulden Stern with fresh pork lard. The vegetables, horseradish, and wines served at the restaurant are all sourced from family-owned businesses in the region, and the dishes are substantial and savory. This tavern survived all the wars, likely hosted famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer, and still serves up delicious daily-prepared meat-and-vegetable soups and famous sausages. In addition to the interesting antique wall art, the colorful wooden ceiling is patched with old brightly painted cupboard panels, to cover holes made where weighty drunken guests from older days had fallen through from the upper level.

Step into history while dining at Zum Gulden Stern, where famous Middle Ages painter Albrecht Dürer is said to have frequented.

Adina Apartment Hotel, about a 12-minute walk from the main train station, in the heart of the city, is a comfortable, clean, and convenient place to overnight in Nürnberg. The spacious studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments have fully equipped kitchens, cozy linens, and vegan personal care products, and the hotel is upscale but relaxed and inviting. Friendly, efficient, and attentive staff, and fast and accommodating room service make this an exceptional lodging choice. Breakfast in the downstairs dining area is varied and colorful, with many tasty options to help kick-start your day—fresh juices, lattes, meat and cheese platters, vegetables, cereals, dried and fresh fruits, fish filet cakes, pancakes and rolls, sweet breads, jams, eggs, and hot breakfast meat dishes (including the city’s famous sausages). After a day exploring the town, the lap pool and sauna area provide just enough space for a refreshing evening swim and relaxation in the dry heat.

Adina Apartment Hotel is a cozy place to lodge, with activities for guests of all ages.

Be sure to buy a Nürnberg Card online or at one of several Tourist Information stands, to receive a variety of free admissions and discounts. The Nürnberg Card allows you 48 hours of free access to almost all the city museums and attractions as well as free public transportation.

A three-minute walk down the street from the Adina Apartment Hotel takes you to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum (German National Museum), the largest cultural history museum in the German-speaking countries. Here, you can explore five exhibition areas on three levels of the museum—artifacts from the Old Stone Age to the Middle Ages, collections from Renaissance to Enlightenment, and 20^th Century masterpieces—there are multitudes of treasures to examine. The armor and hunting exhibition is especially expansive, with case after case of intricate weaponry. You’ll also find an impressive array of musical instruments, jewelry, sleighs, sculptures, and paintings.

The German National Museum exhibits magnificent artifacts from all eras.

A separate building houses the toys portion of the museum—a showcase of detailed dollhouses, dolls, tin cars and armies, optical toys, and miniature railroads. Many of the elaborate 17^th century dollhouses exhibited here were thought to be commissioned by Nürnberg’s wealthy merchants and patricians. For young people, the houses functioned as a visual representation of ideal households and a clear display of tasks and activities to be performed in each of the rooms. For example, dollhouse sitting rooms were often decorated with tea service, chess boards, and decks of cards, while kitchen layouts included hearth-cleaning tools, cake molds, soup ladles, and copper pots. Similarly, 18^th– to 20^th-century toys conveyed educational objectives relating to children’s future familial and career lives. Playing with dolls helped girls prepare for their roles as patient, gentle mothers. Boys’ toys were often linked to their potential future working lives—tin soldiers encouraged strategic thought and tactical warfare, wooden building blocks taught spatial reasoning and construction design, and other technical toys fostered special interests and skills.

Antique toys at the German National Museum give a glimpse into historic playtime and its echoes of everyday life.

Spielzeugmuseum (toy museum) Nürnberg is another toy museum that displays games and playthings of all sorts—dolls, metal soldiers, puppets, teddy bears, model railroads, tin vehicles, and Playmobil figures, as well as vintage and newer iconic characters like Paddington Bear, ALF, and Garfield. Visit this museum for a bit of history and some interactive play time with toys and family games in the upstairs playroom.

Spielzeugmuseum Nürnberg displays old and new toys alike, with areas for interactive play and a building and board game zone.

Stop by Die Wirtschaft restaurant for Brotzeit (bread time), Veschber (midday snack), or Gudzerla (Franconian tapas) to nosh on a savory selection of sourdough or oven-crusted bread, marinated cheeses and sausages, pickled vegetables, and herbs. The warm and crispy Apfelküchle (specifically, fried apple rings in beer batter with homemade ice cream and plum compote) will revive you for the rest of your city exploration. For another delicious snack or dessert option, Restaurant Trödelstuben serves up hot raspberries and raspberry sauce over vanilla ice cream. If you’d like a break from traditional German food, try the KOKONO Pan-Asian Cuisine & Sushi Bar on Luitpoldstraße. Expect fresh food, seasonal flowers on all tables, and a fun presentation of dry ice mist at your table while you eat your edamame and sushi rolls.

Nürnberg culinary variety abounds, with traditional German cuisine and desserts as well as delicious Asian delicacies.

Not all the city’s most interesting sights can be found at ground level. Claudia Radtke, certified Nürnberg city guide, provides guided tours of Nürnberg’s fascinating underground worlds. Those interested in history, fortification, and ancient legal systems (and those aged 10 years and older) will enjoy the intriguing and informative tours entitled “Tunnels and Secret Passages in the City Wall” and “Medieval Dungeons.” The 14^th century dungeons in vaulted rock-cut cellars beneath the city hall contain prison cells, torture chambers, the jailer’s house, a prison kitchen, and a blacksmith’s workshop. Walk through underground corridors with damp limestone walls (use the railings and watch your step), learn about those who walked there before you, and explore the city’s ancient approaches to maintaining peace, organization, and stability.

Explore beneath the city, with exciting tours of dungeons and underground passageways.

Underneath the Imperial Castle, a network of defensive passageways wind about, with casemates and embrasures from which weapons could be fired into all angles of the moat. Interestingly, the humid tunnels were not conducive to weapon storage, so weapons were stored aboveground and brought down via a ramp during combat periods. The quarry-stone underground walls are eroded and colorful, shaped and stained from sour rain dripping through.

Don’t forget to climb up and appreciate sights from the very top of the Imperial Castle—views down into the moat and stone walkways meandering through flowering trees beneath cloud-speckled blue skies. Wealthy, strategically built, well-invested in defense, and never captured (or attacked, for that matter), Nürnberg was one of the Holy Roman Empire’s best-protected cities in Europe. The city’s history of wealth and peace is attributed to its involvement in trade, due to solving issues diplomatically and with payment rather than through warfare.

The uphill climb to the Imperial Castle rewards you with beautiful views.

After peering down from the Imperial Castle, stop at the nearby Hausbrauerei Altstadthof, known for its brewed Rotbier (red beer) and oven-fresh Schäufele (roasted pork shoulder in red beer sauce with dumplings and sauerkraut). The snug tavern area with a “hidden gem” feel is a great hangout spot for groups and couples to have a homestyle Franconian meal and a few freshly tapped craft beers. Fill up on savory Nürnberger sausages, potato soup with crusty bread, Obazda specialty Bavarian cheese, spätzle (dumpling-like irregular-shaped egg noodles), red cabbage, goulash, and a wheat- and black-beer sponge cake “Beeramisu” dessert or Apfelküchle (this menu’s variation is drizzled with custard sauce and served with vanilla bean ice cream, whipped cream, and almond slices).

Hausbrauerei Altstadthof serves hearty meals and tasty beer in an inviting social environment.

Tour the Old Town and learn about the city’s history while riding the Mini Train, which departs from the Beautiful Fountain at the Main Market Square and takes you on an almost hour-long loop in and around thHausbrauerei Altstadthofe city while multi-language audio headsets announce historical landmarks and relay town stories. One legend tells of German robber Eppelein von Gailingen, who allegedly escaped execution by leaping off the castle and over the moat and city wall on his horse, leaving behind hoofprints on the roof. You’ll see the half-timbered historical building built in 1446 that once housed lepers for three days during Holy Week (to provide them medical attention, clothing, and food), then became a wine storage depot, and now functions as student housing. You’ll also spot the Hangman’s Bridge, a wooden footbridge over the Pegnitz River used solely by the Nürnberg hangman between the 16^th and 19^th century to travel between his secluded home on a small island in the Pegnitz into the city, as a Middle Ages rule forbade him from contact with “honorable citizens.”

The Mini Train ride provides a comprehensive city tour while revealing town lore.

Don’t forget to visit Nürnberg’s surrounding area outside the city walls. Nürnberg Zoo is about a 25-minute ride out of the city center via public transportation. Backed by sandstone cliffs, the exhibits of pacing lions, squeaking lemurs, playful polar bears, and around 300 different animal species (about 40 considered endangered) provide guests with plenty of animal entertainment. One of the largest zoos in Europe, the Nürnberg Zoo is built on approximately 160 acres that include woodlands of ancient trees, peaceful ponds, rocky formations, and sloping walkways. Its special “climate high forest trail” is built at the treetops and allows visitors to stroll and view the zoo from above. The zoo is designed in a natural, park-like arrangement that feels very relaxed and rural. Not only open-air–enclosured animals make this place their home, but water birds and forest animals are found in the wild in this “forest preserve”-like walking zoo. There are numerous play areas for children, including a fantastic large playground with zip lines, ropes courses, giant slides, and inset trampolines—appropriate even for older kids or spirited adults.

Restaurant Waldschänke within the zoo grounds is reached via a slightly uphill walk along beautiful pathways. Indoors or out in the beer garden you can order hearty meat entrees, kid-friendly food, salads, fish dishes, Mediterranean meals, revitalizing drinks, and an extensive selection of vegetarian and vegan options. Complete with audience-interactive Culinary Theater performances, colorful murals, amusing children’s books to borrow and peruse during your meal, and an opportunity to purchase plush animals, Restaurant Waldschänke is a welcoming eatery for families.

Restaurant Waldschänke in the Nürnberg Zoo is a convenient place to power up between wildlife exhibits.

By exploring inside and outside of Nürnberg’s city walls, high above the castle moat, and even below the streets, you can go beyond surface level to uncover fascinating history and experience this medieval town’s inimitable Franconian charm.